Ford Ranger / B-Series :: CEL On After Oil Change?
Dec 19, 2013
I just changed my Oil, added a FRAM filter and bought some good Quakerstate High Mileage and my truck runs good. However, I noticed that my Check Oil light is constantly on. I also recently changed my Oil Sender, and I wonder if that has got something to do with it.
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I looked for any tips on changing the coolant in my '06 2.3L Ranger but found nada. How to best / easiest way to drain the coolant from this little rig? Is there any need to worry about bleeding any captured air in the system once I go to refill the system?
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What is the recommended interval for the timing belt change? I have a '96 B2300 with ~85K on it and he original timing belt. I wanted to change the serpentine belt and my mechanic said he'll take a look at the timing belt. It's not cracked or anything but he says that after 8 years it should be changed.
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Looking for a good write to change the front rotor (BIG CRACKS IN IT) on a 97 auto locking 4X4 hubs? Any special tools etc...?
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I have a 2002 3.0 with the 5R44E. I don't like how late it shifts into 5th gear. Is there a way to make it shift into 5th at 45-50 instead of 55? I feel like I have to let off the gas half of the time to make it shift and I don't have a heavy foot. If anything, driving with a light foot seems to make it shift into 5th later.
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But here's too my question. I recently bought a 2wd Ford ranger 2.9 automatic. Bought not running. They said it wouldn't turn over that there was something wrong with the starter. I figured it was the neutral safety switch turned out it was there's a wire broke on it. I can get in there touch the wires together and it'll turn over. But I can't fix it because the shifting linkage is In the way. I'm wondering how too take it off. I've never worked on one before. And I don't wanna mess up my gears.
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Its a 2000 flex fuel 3.0... Its not the actual injector. I think its wiring or computer. No change in idle when I pull the injector plug. But I think I can feel the injector opening and closing. Compared to nearby injector diagnostic light flashes less brightly. but that's pretty hard to quantify
When I pull the plug on another injector it idles about the same but I can tell it surge up and down as I disconnect and reconnect it. Fuel injectors were backflushed and swapped same problem cylinder. Where do I go from here just take apart the loom and look for abraded wires? Its the number one cylinder, passenger front.
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I drive a 2002 Ford Ranger and am wondering at what mileage should I change the heater and radiator hoses. The truck lives in Phoenix, AZ and is driven almost daily.
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I have a Ford Ranger 4wd, 2000 120k. Ran well, great shape, reliable and quiet running. Oil pan leaked and I got tired of going under and used Devcon in attempts to stop leak..reoccurring issue. So I get new 0il pan. Started it up following morning after driving errands and home from shop and saw a cloud of smoke on start up never seen before, cleared away and didn't think about it again. Drive round trip for about 70 miles and while driving at slow speeds back in town, the oil gauge started pinging back and forth, and the knocking started. By the time I got home I do not dare to drive it anywhere as while the oil gauge does not fluctuate anymore the rapping has increased. What could have started this chain of events? Can I expect the garage to replace the engine? Vehicle is worth 4k replacing engine probably 3K..while a beautiful useful truck body sits in yard is it really worth it? Bad draw on the cards?
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I have a 1994 2.3l 4cylinder xlt ford ranger regular cab Manuel transmission. My transmission is going out. I found an 04 ford ranger Manuel transmission off a v6 will this be compatible? And if not what years will be?
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I have a 1994 ford ranger 4x4 that I just put on and 35's and when I get to 35 mph it shakes really bad. What the problem is. Have been told that I need a steering stabilizer.
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I need to change the AC relay. What is the location of the relay.
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I have a weird issue. When I'm running AC on my 2.3l ranger sometimes the idle wont go down but rather hold its current RPMs till i either turn the AC off or place the truck back in gear. What that could be?
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Opinions welcomed...thinking of taking a gamble on an '04 with 248k miles on it.....not sure what engine is in it.
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Hello. I never did this before but could you lock one hub in 2wd and leave the other unlocked. Also can you leave one hub locked while in 4wd? I was thinking if you have one hub locked would all the power would go to that wheel? Or will this do damage?
Thanks
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I fit explorer rear axle to my 2wd ranger. But now I have fromt x-member with front suspension and front drive axle from explorer. Can I fit all this stuff to my ranger?
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I recently purchased a 1997 Ford Ranger with a blown 4.0 with a 5 speed , I have a 5.0 with a Carb and 5 speed out of a 80s mustang . Is it possible to use this in the 97 Ranger , I understand I need a different fuel pump but motor mount wise I was hoping it would fit.
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So here is what I got. Code 157 maf sensor below minimum voltage. Here is what the truck does. When the MAF is plugged in and I step on it, the truck surges and when it drops below 1k rpm it dies but I can start it back up. If I hold the throttle at 1k it stays alive. When I drive with the MAF unplugged it runs better no surging but it still dies. Here is what I have done. Reset codes no change, put new MAF in no change. I have traced all 4 MAF wires checked continuity from inside of plug to inside of plug.
All wires checked out good. No cuts breaks or anything. I have checked my battery, starter, and alternator ad all check out fine. I read that someone said if the corresponding transistor in the PCM took a dumb then it would cause not enough voltage to get to the plug because the transistor would dump the voltage from the battery leading to the MAF. I thought about running a direct power source from the battery to the voltage side of the MAF with a switch in the truck to just see if that would solve the issue but I don't know if that is possible or smart.
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Ok first I am not super-mechanically inclined but i'm pretty smart and a fast learner, lol. That said I have a 1999 Ford Ranger and two nights ago first one blinker stopped working and then an hour later the other one stopped. What I mean by "stopped" is they weren't turning on at all.
Ok so, the flasher lights are all working when turned on. I went to the auto parts store and they said I needed a new flasher. I bought it but they weren't sure which one to replace. Well there were only 3 that size in the box under the hood so I used the process of illumination. Except the new one didn't exactly fit the first one so i tried the two others. Well when I think I had it in the right one.
The Blinkers would only flash once and then that was it. The guy at the store said the flasher may be faulty but he did not have another one so he gave me my money back. I noticed on the way home that the blinkers would still flash once even with the old flasher in place. The 4 way flashers still work normally so all bulbs are working.
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I have a 95 ranger with an overdrive auto. If you put your foot in it the converter wont lock up, you can get the tack past redline, but if you let off and the rpms drop below 2000, it locks up and holds until you apply the accelerator to much and it kicks it back out. Also the speedometer bounces and may not read right, abs light is sometimes on and it won't idle below 1000, I've checked for vacuum leaks already.
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My 94 ranger, 3.0 v6 began to sputter and jerk about a month ago. It does this when ever give more then lite throttle up until about 3000 rpm. I have replaced plugs, wires, coil and cleaned the air flow sensor. I feel like this has worked a little but the problem is still definitely present. When I hit 3k rpm if feels lie the truck begins to run correctly and almost like it had a power ban much like a dirtbike, but again it's just the truck running correct.. And above 3k rpm it runs great... and every so often the problem will completely disappear for 5 minutes or so, then come right back.
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