Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Brand New Brake Drums Have A Wobble
Aug 20, 2016
Did a complete rear brake job on a 90 Ranger including a pair of Pronto brake drums. Here are some videos of the problem.
Wheel and tire with new brake drum. Bad wobble.
Wheel and tire with brake drum - YouTube
Wheel and tire installed without brake drum. No wobble.
Wheel and tire without brake drum - YouTube
Brake drum only. Bad wobble
Brake drum - YouTube
Bare axle. No wobble.
Bare axle - YouTube
So is it safe to conclude the brake drum is bad? The other side is worse. I cleaned the axle surface so its flat. Wheels and tires are new.
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I had reason to believe that my back brakes needed replacing. While I was at it, I also attempted to swap out my front rotors, but was stopped when I was unable to remove my front brake calipers. All in all, I essentially did nothing. I checked the back brake drums and put those tires back on and then took front tires off and put them back on. I woke up today to drive to work, and and after getting about a mile down the road and going about 30-35 mph I noticed my wobble. It seemed to be coming from the front, but still hard to be sure. I know my rotors are a little warped, but I usually always experience that when braking, not when just coasting or accelerating. What to check on, or what I could have done? If it makes any difference, I am driving a 2002 Ford Taurus.
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Gen 5.5 (2006 LE (57K miles), Rear brake drums and parking brake.
I want to get my parking brake lubricated and rear drums cleaned and adjusted. Is is difficult to lubricate the parking brake?
I plan on getting this done with a Mobile One oil change at a local garage.
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I have A 97 F-150 4X4 with rear drums. I noticed the brakes felt like they weren't releasing right away after i let of the brake pedal. i took drums off and noticed on the left rear the front shoe moved normal but the rear shoe didn't move at all. on the right side front shoe moves normal rear shoe very very slow, and i could see rear shoe was worn way more than front. So I replaced on both rear the shoes, all the hardware, springs, wheel cylinders and brake line from cylinders to the proportioning valve.bleed the brakes, and adjusted the drag on the drums. Now i drive it, test it out, feels like the same issue is going on. feels like im driving with the brake on, and right rear gets really hot. Did i miss something? not do something right?
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I have a 94 ranger 4.0 4x4. One winter while 4 wheeling I happened to get into some snow that just kept getting deeper until i got stuck, So i had to back out, after doing that i noticed that the brake light and the abs light were on, then for about a year after that it would just come on and go off. For the past 6 months it has stayed off until you press the brake all the way down to the floor , then it comes on. If you shut off the truck and restart it it will be off until you press the brakes all the way down again. if you get the light to come on and drive with it like that, then when you shut it off and turn it on it will still be on and wont come off until the truck cools down. there is nothing wrong with the brakes, new calipers, new pads, and no leaks that i've noticed. I was told the rotors look a little thin though. I don't know if this is related, but it seems when you start the truck after driving it with the light on, it will idle rough or even stall. but after you rev it 3-4 times it will run smoothly.
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Of course the month my inspection is due, my e-brake light comes on, and I have no clue why. I use my ebrake religiously.
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My c is about 5 12 months old now, and the rear brake drums are already covered in rust.
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I recently put new wheels on my 2012 (more open spoke than stock ones), very soon started to notice the brake drums getting rusty. Is there anything I can do to 1) get rid of that and 2) stop it from happening? It's really killing the look of the new wheels. (The wheels themselves are spotted right now from sprinklers this morning.)
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Brake rear drums overheating on My LC 80 series '90 GX model has been having reoccurring left side rear overheating after driving for 2-3 hours in traffic. It has been worked on many times since the lastest attempt both sides heated to about 100-110+F on the rim with the right one the hotter. The wheel cylinders have been replaced, the brake shoes, bearings and seals on the left side in the hub with the springs, self adjuster and cable in the drum, the front disc pads also. There has been some engineering: welding on the lh rear axle diff tube which was done. The problem stressed out the last mechanic. He wants to replace the master cylinder next. Remove self-adjuster mechanisms is it a possible fix?
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Having a problem with the brake lights. When the brake pedal is pressed, the running lights (including dash lights, parking lights, and the low power filament in tail light) turn on, but no brake lights. When the lights are turned on and brake pedal is pressed, the brake lights do not turn on at all. The 4 way flashers and signal lights work correctly with lights on and off. Things I have tried:
Replaced the tail light bulbs.
Checked fuses (#5, #10).
Disassembled the brake switch and bypassed it with a jumper wire.
Checked the grounds (tail lights, rear ground, drivers inner fender).
Tried to trace the wiring. Didn't see any noticeable damage, but the wiring is in a loom so it is hard to see.
Used contact cleaner on brake switch, rear wiring harness, body harness.
Still hoping it may be something simple that I've overlooked.
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Under mild-heavy braking, the rear brakes on my ranger lock up... EVERYTIME. Not just when its wet, or humid. Everytime I hit the brakes hard they lock. I think I'm getting little, to no pressure to the front brakes either. Could it be just a Proportioning valve?
Truck is a 94' 4.0l V6, RCLB, Auto, 4X4.
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I've got a 97 Ranger that popped a brake line. The rigid line burst above the rear axle, in the section that comes from the frame rail to the flexible "down" line.
Trouble is, the rigid line that burst disappears between the frame rail and the fuel tank and then comes out a DIFFERENT SIZE where it goes into the proportioning valve.
Looking for a diagram of that line as it travels forward along the frame rail or know where it changes size?
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Yesterday, I noticed that my right front brake caliper seemed to be sticking. This morning I jacked up the front end, and could barely turn the right front wheel when it was off the ground. So, I have concluded that that caliper is sticking. So, here is the question(s): what is the best way to repair this (new caliper, rebuilt caliper, or rebuild it myself), do I need to do both sides the same or can I just do the one that is acting up, and should I expect to pay. I have some mechanical ability, but that Haynes manual doesn't make too much sense to me. Getting it professionally repaired is extremely inconvenient, I need to be back at school (300 miles away) Tuesday evening, and probably couldn't get it in to get it done before then.
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It is a 1994 Ranger XLT, Regular cab, two wheel drive, manual transmission and I think it has rear ABS. A front brake line blew which drain the master cylinder. Also a couple of pieces of brake line at the rear had to be replace along with the rear wheel cylinders. After installing the new brake system components we were trying to bleed the system. After reading the repair manual I had it said that vehicles with rear ABS you are to bleed the ABS module before bleeding the rest of the system. There is a module where the book described it (driver's side inside the frame rail) with brake line running to it. I am assuming this is the rear ABS module? I didn't see anything that looked like a bleeder on the module. Where to look? Also when I open the bleeders on the rear wheel cylinder no brake fluid came out.
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I bought 2000 Ranger with rear half of the frame cut and welded.
The mechanics who did this did terrible job of putting things where they belong. I rerouted wiring harness and rebuilt EVAP lines, but cannot figure out what is the correct route for parking brake cable.
Currently some part of the parking brake cable is sitting on the leaf spring. It may also be missing some mounting brackets or clips. Looking for a picture or diagram showing parking brake cable routing?
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1993 Ranger XLT 4.0 AT. Initially replaced ECM for other problems and then noticed Cruise w/n disengage when brake depressed unless pedal is pushed several times and with more pressure. Put in another ECM and have same problem. Have replaced the brake switch and lights come on as they should. When pedal is pushed the vacuum dump valve on the pedal will dump the vacuum to the servo but when you release the brake pedal the cruise control kicks back in and speeds truck back to set speed.
So this tells me that the dump valve is only a fail-safe feature for when pedal is depressed and does not actually deactivate the servo. Everything else with the cruise works fine: On/Off switch, Set/Accelerate, Resume, Coast. How to proceed next? Like where to find speed control module and how to test it? How to check servo to see if it is getting or dropping voltage that will electrically disengage it, etc? Don't want just throw parts at it. The new ECU's that I used came from ECU Exchange in Florida and there still remains the possibility that they are still the problem.
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I have a 2008 Ranger Sport 4x4. I noticed yesterday that when I stepped on the brake pedal it felt like nothing was there until I step a little harder then it was like full brake application. The truck only has 63000 on it. Then every once in awhile it would be normal ie very light brake application and slows like it should. Then back to same issue... Any thoughts about this??
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Just Bought 97 Ranger 2.3L 5 speed. Everything worked except interior cab light and cab brake light. Also the wipers and A/C blower only work on highest speed when I bought it. I assumed there was a problem with the switches, bulbs and/or fuses. But when I picked it up last evening I noticed the dash lights were very dim on the way home. Then when I got home I shut everything off and removed the key. I then opened the drivers door and touched the brake pedal and the dash lights and the parking lights came on along with the "key in ignition" bell alarm each time I touch the brake pedal. If I close the door the dash and parking lights come on but the key in ignition does not sound. With so many things malfunctioning I don't know where to start.
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Sometimes the LR brake skids MUCH too easily under just moderate braking. Other times it works normally. It's unpredictable. I may drive it for weeks with no trouble and then have a few days in a row when the problem comes back.
It usually happens when the truck has been sitting for a while (several hours or days). sometimes it goes away after driving for 10-15 mins, other times it sticks around a few days then stops.
I had Les Schwab inspect the brakes several months ago and they could find nothing wrong. It's been happening for a year or more.
It's a '99 Ranger, 2 wheel drive with ABS.
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I am going to fail State safety inspection due to a problem with my brakes. Months ago when I was trying to get it through emissions testing the mechanics looked under the truck to see where the brakes were leaking. All they told me was the rear lines are rusted through and need replacing.
From my reading I believe the lines are 3/16" line and I think they go around the back of the fuel tank and up the frame rail. Correct?
My questions are, what length line do I need (I am not a hard-line expert, but I will try). I want to order some ss line so it won't rust through again. Is the system made of small sections threaded together? Or is it one long section? And what else would I need/want to replace along the way?
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My front disks are pulsing & the thickness is near minimum, so I guess I'll have to replace them soon. Is any particular brand better than others?
These stock ones are made by Bosch and I'm not impressed with their lack of resistance to warpage. I see "Drilled and Slotted" available at Rockauto. What's your experience? Are they any good?
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