Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Brake System Bleeding With Rear ABS
Jul 24, 2011
It is a 1994 Ranger XLT, Regular cab, two wheel drive, manual transmission and I think it has rear ABS. A front brake line blew which drain the master cylinder. Also a couple of pieces of brake line at the rear had to be replace along with the rear wheel cylinders. After installing the new brake system components we were trying to bleed the system. After reading the repair manual I had it said that vehicles with rear ABS you are to bleed the ABS module before bleeding the rest of the system. There is a module where the book described it (driver's side inside the frame rail) with brake line running to it. I am assuming this is the rear ABS module? I didn't see anything that looked like a bleeder on the module. Where to look? Also when I open the bleeders on the rear wheel cylinder no brake fluid came out.
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Under mild-heavy braking, the rear brakes on my ranger lock up... EVERYTIME. Not just when its wet, or humid. Everytime I hit the brakes hard they lock. I think I'm getting little, to no pressure to the front brakes either. Could it be just a Proportioning valve?
Truck is a 94' 4.0l V6, RCLB, Auto, 4X4.
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Sometimes the LR brake skids MUCH too easily under just moderate braking. Other times it works normally. It's unpredictable. I may drive it for weeks with no trouble and then have a few days in a row when the problem comes back.
It usually happens when the truck has been sitting for a while (several hours or days). sometimes it goes away after driving for 10-15 mins, other times it sticks around a few days then stops.
I had Les Schwab inspect the brakes several months ago and they could find nothing wrong. It's been happening for a year or more.
It's a '99 Ranger, 2 wheel drive with ABS.
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I am going to fail State safety inspection due to a problem with my brakes. Months ago when I was trying to get it through emissions testing the mechanics looked under the truck to see where the brakes were leaking. All they told me was the rear lines are rusted through and need replacing.
From my reading I believe the lines are 3/16" line and I think they go around the back of the fuel tank and up the frame rail. Correct?
My questions are, what length line do I need (I am not a hard-line expert, but I will try). I want to order some ss line so it won't rust through again. Is the system made of small sections threaded together? Or is it one long section? And what else would I need/want to replace along the way?
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I have a 1990 4x4 ford Ranger, the little truck was purchased in early 2008 as a work truck but has ended up becoming my main vehicle, it has been a good truck for the most part but know I am having some brake issues, well have been having for some time but they seem to come and go. Usually it happens when I have to hit the brakes hard, the rear brakes lock up, I replaced the master cylinder months ago and thought that fixed it, then a month later it happened again. The last time it happened was friday, the time before that was in march 09'.
I have searched this online and found numerous try this but the original poster never comes back to say if the problem is fixed or what fixed it. My ABS light DOES NOT come on when this happens, it does function properly, it illuminates when the key is turned on then goes off. My parking brake no longer works either but I think that is from me "driving thru" the locked up rear brakes. I plan on replacign both drums and shoes within the next week but would like an option to repair the locking up issue.
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getting ready to do a cooling system flush per the instructions Cheezit posted a while back, which say "refer to Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section." I think I can figure out the drain and fill but how do you bleed the system?
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I heard that you could place a flat screwdriver between the upper radiator hose and the end of radiator. Is this procedure really work?
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...Is there anything special that needs to be done for brake bleeding after putting in a new master cylinder? I decided today to flush my system with my vacuum bleeder and now my pedal slowly falls to the floor at a light...No problems in a panic stop or otherwise, just falls to the floor slowly when braking...no leaks, so I'm assuming a master cylinder is an order....
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2003 Ford Ranger .. ac:system is over pressurize when I add freon the clutch goes on and off.Is there a high pressure switch for something
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I'm having trouble bleeding the air out of my slave cylinder or master cylinder in my clutch system. I've been trying for a couple days now is there a trick to this?
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Alrighty. I have replaced everything dealing with my coolant. New water pump, mishi radiator, pusher fans, thermal switch, temp sensor, t stat, t stat housing coolant pipes, also new gasket and o rings. All new coolant pentofrost sf. Today I went to bleed the cooling system and waited til it did not suck any more coolant down, and we're no signs of air bubbles. Today when I drove it a to Walmart it began to over eat quickly. I pulled over and looked ubder the hood. Coolant was dripping out of my 19-21 pounds moroso cap. And my coolant hoses were rock hard.
Although my top radiator hose was very hot and my bottom was not, but closer to the motor it was. Like if there was a blockage but there isn't in the hose that goes to the block on the bottom of my radiator. Even with the air flow and my fans manually turned on when I first started the car it was steal overheating. On my vehicle there is not a reservoir it has been deleted. I have just my hoses and my radiator that's it. I don't know what can be causing this to happen. Also I ran an air pressure test and my head gasket is not leaking. Any clue what could be going on????
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I have a pretty stock 98 Ranger XLT (Single cab long bed) MFG 11-1998. 3.0 v6, automatic, 2wd. Manual crank windows, Manual mirrors and I presume manual locks as well (All tho aesthetically they look just like powered locks, pins sit flush with panel when locked) It has the PATs system (uses a transponder key and has the theft light). When I got the truck I got one key nothing more.
I would LIKE to have an OEM alarm system in this truck. Blinking lights, remote, that sort of thing.
My questions, would this truck have come with the alarm computer (I think its called the RAP module). If so where would it be located? If I don't have one, can I buy one, plug it in, program remotes and use it? If so how do i program the new remotes without power door locks ..
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My Ranger has been a great truck but over the last 18 months ther has been a intermitent problem with the fuel system. It would run out of fuel ( foaming spray to nothing at the fuel rail ) and if you let it sit it would start and run after 8 hrs to a couple of days. Now it is all the time. The last time I let it sit for a week in a parking lot and it started, let it warm up and turned it off to move my other truck and it would not start when I returned. I have changed the fuel pump 3 times, 2 fuel filters, relay and pressure reg. on fuel rail.
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Looking for the wiring diagrams for 86 ranger fuel system. I replaced the fuel pump relay after testing and finding that it was bad, still not getting fuel. I want to test any fusible links or anything else that could have gone wrong before I throw another part at it.
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I have a '94 Ranger XLT with the 4 cylinder 2.3L motor. I recently failed my smog test here in CA because the evap system would not hold pressure. All the emissions were perfect, but it wouldn't hold pressure. I changed the fuel filler neck -- it was cracked -- but there is still a problem somewhere. Is there a diagram that shows where all the hoses are for the evap system? I'm thinking that some other hoses might be cracked since they have been there over 20 years. Is this a good place to start looking or should I be checking something else?
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I just tried doing the self test for reading the codes via the check engine light with the OBD1 system on my '93 4.0 Ranger. Problem is: When trying to mark down the flashes of the check engine light, they flash so erratically and rapidly that there is no way to accurately count. At times the light flickers so fast it never even gets to get fully bright enough to tell if it is actually a "flash" or not. I'm (again) trying to diagnose an issue with the truck starting and running fine for about 3-4 minutes and then like flipping a switch begins blubbering and belching out black smoke, check engine light flashes on/off randomly, then the engine will eventually die. It will restart provided the ignition switch is turned all the way off and attempted again, generating same results only within 30 seconds or so. If you try restarting w/o turning the ignition all the way off, it'll spin over but won't start. ECM?
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We have a 2007 Ranger. When the temps hit 32 degrees F or below, the truck won't start. The security system light comes on. We have to run through the security system reset process, sometimes a few times, before it will start. Afraid all this key turning is going to burn out the ignition. Don't have a lot of confidence in my Ford dealer as they replaced the brakes and put the shims in wrong. Local mechanic says it's probably electrical. Is there anyway to bypass the security system or can it be removed?
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I have a 94 ranger 4.0 4x4. One winter while 4 wheeling I happened to get into some snow that just kept getting deeper until i got stuck, So i had to back out, after doing that i noticed that the brake light and the abs light were on, then for about a year after that it would just come on and go off. For the past 6 months it has stayed off until you press the brake all the way down to the floor , then it comes on. If you shut off the truck and restart it it will be off until you press the brakes all the way down again. if you get the light to come on and drive with it like that, then when you shut it off and turn it on it will still be on and wont come off until the truck cools down. there is nothing wrong with the brakes, new calipers, new pads, and no leaks that i've noticed. I was told the rotors look a little thin though. I don't know if this is related, but it seems when you start the truck after driving it with the light on, it will idle rough or even stall. but after you rev it 3-4 times it will run smoothly.
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Of course the month my inspection is due, my e-brake light comes on, and I have no clue why. I use my ebrake religiously.
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I was bleeding my brakes today and when I took off the wheel on the driver side, I found grease on my rim. I can't believe that my outer cv boot is cracked for a car with less than 57K miles.
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A 2000 Toyota 4Runner was stopping fine. A mechanic informed me that the brake pads were worn down. After the pads were replaced and bled the pedal sinks lower than before and the car requires more pressure to stop. I can pump up the pedal after 3 pushes. I took it back and he has since re-bled the brakes but the pedal still sinks low.
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