Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Brake And ABS Lights On - Open / Grounded Valve Reset Circuit
Jun 8, 2015
1993 ford ranger xlt. Auto trans 4.0 L ... Brake and ABS lights are on. Fluid level is good and connector on the master is tight. Just randomly came on. No difference in brakes. I jumped it and it flashed a code 4. "Open/grounded valve reset circuit". Cant seem to find much on it.
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My brake lights will not work but all other lights do, bulbs and fuse have been replaced.
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Having a problem with the brake lights. When the brake pedal is pressed, the running lights (including dash lights, parking lights, and the low power filament in tail light) turn on, but no brake lights. When the lights are turned on and brake pedal is pressed, the brake lights do not turn on at all. The 4 way flashers and signal lights work correctly with lights on and off. Things I have tried:
Replaced the tail light bulbs.
Checked fuses (#5, #10).
Disassembled the brake switch and bypassed it with a jumper wire.
Checked the grounds (tail lights, rear ground, drivers inner fender).
Tried to trace the wiring. Didn't see any noticeable damage, but the wiring is in a loom so it is hard to see.
Used contact cleaner on brake switch, rear wiring harness, body harness.
Still hoping it may be something simple that I've overlooked.
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Just Bought 97 Ranger 2.3L 5 speed. Everything worked except interior cab light and cab brake light. Also the wipers and A/C blower only work on highest speed when I bought it. I assumed there was a problem with the switches, bulbs and/or fuses. But when I picked it up last evening I noticed the dash lights were very dim on the way home. Then when I got home I shut everything off and removed the key. I then opened the drivers door and touched the brake pedal and the dash lights and the parking lights came on along with the "key in ignition" bell alarm each time I touch the brake pedal. If I close the door the dash and parking lights come on but the key in ignition does not sound. With so many things malfunctioning I don't know where to start.
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85 ford ranger 2.3 efi .. My brake lights still aren't coming on. According to the Haynes manual, the wire that runs from the stop light fuse goes from there to the hazard flasher and then to the brake light switch. Since I have checked everything else, is it possible that the hazards are causing a break in the connection?
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So I did alot of electrical work on this truck but never had any problems with the brake lights, now they dont work and the fuse blows every time you pop one in.
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I have an emissions test coming up. I have 3 P codes that I'd like to eliminate before then. I don't want to "fix" the issues they are telling me about. Just make the codes go away. I know why they're there I just need to get rid of them.
What I have coming up is:
P0475 Exhaust Pressure Circuit Valve (result of EBPV delete)
P0541 Intake air heater A circuit low (result of aih delete)
P0640 Intake air heater control circuit (also result of aih delete)
What resistors I'll need and where to put them in?
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1997 2wd, 4.0 - As you can guess it runs pretty bad at idle. It has O2 heater circuit codes for all 3 sensors. I'm leaning towards the ECM because the 2 heater wires are both hot with the key on. I unplugged the computer and turned the key on and just one wire is hot. Looks like the ecm is supposed to ground the wire to turn the heater on, but it's going hot instead?
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I just bought a '98 Ranger 2.5l 2wd. After driving it for a week or so I got a P1405 Code. After a quick google search I got :
P1405 Ford - DPFE Sensor Circuit Upstream Hose
Possible Causes: - Faulty Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor (EGR pressure sensor)
- Plugged or damaged EGR tube
- Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor harness is open or shorted
- Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Now, I have done my research between forums and youtube and have found this EGR system to be quite. I've gone ahead and replaced my DPEF. I took an air hose and blew out all the small lines coming into the DPEF. I still have the engine light. My next move is to get a volt meter and see if I'm getting power to the sensor.
My question is about this particular code and is it possible I need to look farther into this EGR system (EGR Valve, EGR Hose, etc.)
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Looking for an image of pvc valve location....2003 ranger 3.0......
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It's an 88 2.9 and sounds like a little diesel! The fellow I purchased it from said the valves need tightened, I thought perhaps a timing chain, but figured valves would be an easier place to start. Yet, I'm not sure where to begin? Or how tight the valves need to be, are there torque specks?
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I have a 1984 ranger with the 2.8L and I am doing the valve stem oil seals.
I have instructions from the ranger station. And I have access to mitchell1 and chilton online.
Also I read somewhere about better settings to use for valve lash? The truck has about 80,000 miles on it.
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Burnt feedback hoses off and has no power going up hills, changed plugs and wires and did complete tune up still no power will the EGR valve cause it not to have power going up hill? No codes or check engine light on at this time.
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My '98 B3000 has an oil leak. There is some oil up high on bell housing. So a buddy and I thought it might be the oil pressure sending unit. I replaced it. And still seems to be leaking.
Maybe valve covers? I was thinking rear main until we saw it on the bell housing. Valve covers don't seem to be leaking on the outside. Do they leak worse on the inside of the V?
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Where the modulater valve is on my A4LD tranny. I have a 93' ranger XLT extra cab 2wd with 4.0 engine. I have looked all over the tranny and thought it would be somewhere I could see it. I know I had one on my old full size Ford truck with C6.
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89 4 wheel drive 2.9 5 speed can it be cleaned or cleared.
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I have some codes on my ranger 2000 here goes
P0141: o2 sensor heater circuit malfonction (bank 2 sensor 2 )
P0455: evaporative emission control system detected (large leak)
Now I will need to get that fixed cause I don't know where to look and what to look for ... For the leak I know there is a big crack on the plastic where the gas lid is could that be it ?
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Having some trouble with my 1987 2.3L ranger - 2wd - Non AC - 107k miles.
The truck feels like its running on 3 cylinders and occasionally stalls. Motor has a pretty good shake to it while idling as well.
Recently replaced injectors, rotor, cap, wire, spark plugs. Timing belt was done approx 30k miles ago.
Put seafoam into it. Problem persists - where to go from here ?
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So my 92 4.0 automatic has always been kind of a slug since we've bought it with 101,000 miles on it. It's been tuned properly and fuel pump, filter, and regulator been replaced. It runs pretty good but when you're going highway speed or even like 45-50 and stomp the gas it doesn't feel as if it's downshifting. The transmission looks like it may have been replaced or maintained, it shifts good, pulls good. Fluid is clear and clean, no leaks, no burning. I see that it has a vacuum modulator valve but don't know where it hooks up to. I can barely see it behind my catalytic converter. It will have to be removed to change it for sure. But I'm trying to see where the vacuum line goes from that modulator valve. I see the valve but I didn't really notice a vacuum hose coming off of it but again my view was obstructed by the catalytic converter. Would it cause hesitation problems if it was bad or not even hooked up?
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Found a tee on the heater hose leaks when it warms up. Appears the PO had noticed it but put a hose over it and now is leaking around behind the valve cover. This is a hard plastic line around 5/16. No online parts show it as being available. Is there a fix for this ?
I would bet several others have had this problem as it lays right on top of the flange of the valve cover where I think it would rub a hole pretty quick.
1989 Ranger 4X4 4 cylinder....
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I just finished replacing the Valve body gasket in my 99 ranger with the 4.0 liter v6 with the 5r55e trans. My problem now is that I have no gears i can shift it but the gears do not engage.. I did install the updated bonded separator plate and the tsb for the blow off valve with it.
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