Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Black Peeling Rubbery Plastic Under The Side Windows
Jan 29, 2013
What is the proper name for the black rubbery plastic material that is located under my side windows of the doors? It is peeling now!! I would like to replace them because I am pretty sure it is the source for water intrusion into my truck.
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I noticed green coolant leaking from bottom of black, what I think is called, timing belt cover. There is 188, 000 miles, and when I changed the timing belt, I did not change the water pump, although I did change out the thermostat. I have done a lot of work on this truck in the past. I checked the oil and no signs of water or coolant mixed in. The water pump is not weeping from the top well. I rely on this truck and the way I look at it is I may just keep driving it until it goes kaput (its real beat up). Should I go to an auto parts store and see if I can buy some sealant. I would guess it is either the water pump or maybe the timing cover gasket? I have inspected all hoses, and I see nothing. The leak must be coming from somewhere under that black, plastic cover. I am capable and willing to do just about anything other than perhaps a full engine pull, although I have the wherewithal to do that too if absolutely necessary.
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My umbrella and few other items stowed in prius for some months now has a strong plastic/rubbery prius smell. How do I stop/reduce the smell at the source? There seems to be some discussion on its origin but no mention on how to reduce this.
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I just joined up after purchasing a CPO 2010 Prius IV. Love the car but after taking a closer look I noticed that one side of the bottom black plastic cover was drooping on one side. Upon closer inspection I noticed that there was a screw and plastic Grommet combination that was not locked into place. After unscrewing the screw, I tried to put the grommet back in place but noticed that it couldn't fit because (I believe) the white bumper portion where the grommet goes broke off. I compared it to the other side of the car and yes it does seem like part of the plastic top portion that is connected to the bumper broke off.
I inspected the bottom some more and it seems like there are a good number of screws missing and a large plastic piece that is the front tire well is also very loose.
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The drivers-side black plastic strip on the roof of my '07 Prius is 'missing'. Should I have a body shop take care of this, the dealer, can I do it? It looks pretty straight forward to replace, but I'm concerned about how it's molded to the windshield 'gasket', like it's one piece.
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Finding the fix for the rich fuel puffing black smoke fuel reg ok, map ok, temp sensor ok, air sensor ok...
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1988 4.0 - noticed fuel mileage going down and an occasional stumble for a while but now I am getting some black smoke more when I let off the throttle than when I going down the road if I rev the truck get all kind of black soot all over the floor otherwise runs fine idles fine the iac has been replaced air filter replaced check the fuel pressure regulator for any gas leaking into the vacuum line and its clean.
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I have a 1994 Ford Ranger with 4.0 V6 Automatic. The problem is when it idles it idles low and surges up/down and pushes a very small amount of black smoke puffs and smells like gas. I have installed new coil, new wires, new plugs, new ect, new crankshaft position sensor, and new maf. It has new intake manifold, new injectors, new alternator and it still does the exact same thing. Nothing is phasing it. I ran the key on/engine off test and got egr codes and a map sensor code, then ran the engine running test and got 998 and 126 code. The 998 code says that its basically a hard fault/ have no idea.
I do know this is a donor engine out of another year not sure what year, but i know when i ordered the coolant temp sensor the only ones that would plug into it are the years 1990-1993. Now here's my other question, why would the computer give me a map sensor code when truck doesn't have a map sensor? It has MAF sensor, and why egr codes? The truck doesn't have egr and never came with it. I do know I've unhooked battery and replaced the maf and its like it doesn't even recognize it? Could it be the ecm/computer bad or needs flashed?
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2002 Ford Ranger edge 3.0 flex ... Truck was running fine and giving me no issues. I woke for work the other day and went to get coffee and truck wouldnt start. I could hear fuel pump running and knew it wasnt that, it was acting flooded. So today I pulled fuse from fuel pump relay, and got it to start. Put the fuse back in and ran to gas station. On the way to the gas station it started running really rough, very low and rough idle, trying to stall out. I noticed it had black smoke coming from exhaust. I got it home, and got it to start barely, and it has the same very low and rough idle, but my oil gauge was going crazy, flickering back and forth all crazy, and the idol is terribly rough and eventually stalls out. Earlier today I did put new spark plugs in it, but not sure that has anything to do with the issue. I also hooked it up to a computer and it isnt throwing any codes.
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The automatic driver's window on my '97 XLT tips forward as I raise it, which causes the window to bind and stop. If I hold the window in a rearward direction, it raises just fine. I've had the door panel off a couple times looking for a way to adjust the window, but I don't see a way. The metal arm is hard-attached to the bottom of the window and I don't see any adjustments anywhere else. How can I align a window that raises crooked?
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On the hood, just beyond the 3M plastic covering is a small, silver-dollar sized area where the clear coat on the paint has begun to deteriorate and peel back leaving the paint exposed.
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Just picked up the truck 1995 Ranger XLT. 3L...5spd...4x4...no power windows or door locks. The key buzzer only buzzes for a few seconds, if you move the ignition it buzzes for a few seconds each time its moved. The wipers only work when the buzzer is dinging. Also..the wipers when turned off stay in the up position. I replaced the ignition key mechanism and the on off wiper relay. What am i missing in this weird scenario??
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My RC-F has like 8k miles on the odo. I first noticed it at around 6K miles and I thought my RC-F had picked up some "small pieces of wet tissues or some white paint from road construction". But upon closer examination it is the black paint across the black bumper behind the massive grill peeling the black paint thereby revealing its original white paint.
My front end looks like a Dalmatians dog with black and white spots.
I did not hit anything. Dealer is fixing it under warranty. So will wait and see.
Picture attached..........
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Seems like the black paint on the back of all our mufflers slowly but surely disappears. I'm guessing high heat - flat black (if such a thing exists) would be the way to go.
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1990 Bronco II, 2.9l, auto, 4x4. Was running just fine. Sitting in Park just idling away. All of a sudden, just starts running real rough, ticking, etc.
Towed it home. This morning, started up OK but still running really rough.
While running, pulled spark plug wires one at a time from the drivers side. Had no effect but could tell the wires were sparking as I held them up to metal.
Turned truck off. Drivers side exhaust manifold COLD, passenger side HOT.
This sounds real bad to me. Am I missing something simple that could cause the drivers side of the engine to not work?
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Any effective way to remove scratches from BLACK plastic? (Specifically, my inner door panel which is a matte textured black plastic).
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I haven't been able to find the plastic piece without buying the whole carbon fiber center console.
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I recently removed the top plastic cover on my '05 Camry LE V6 to pull a plug and inspect/decide if I was going to change them out. While I felt I was being careful handling the plastic cover, I grabbed it by the access hole for the oil filler cap. Walking back into the garage, some black carbon came off, and looking at the bits on the ground, and what was left on the inside of the cover, I'm not sure if there is supposed to be a gasket there.
Maybe it was just an accumulation of spilled oil over the years that has trapped and "cooked", or something put in place to capture spilled oil. I scraped the rest of the carbon off using a razor blade and cleaned it up before installing the cover.
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My wife had a disagreement with the garage door this morning while trying to back my Prius out that ended with the little plastic cap that covers the joint of the rear washer being broken (It wasn't more serious!). I know it's a minor thing, but I take pristine care of my Prius and I'm a self-admitted OCD.
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Found a small black piece of either plastic or metal about half the size of a fingernail in the oil when checking it last night. When I took the oil cap off it was on the spindle part. About a month ago I saw another same size piece just in the top area just when you take the cap off and look in the oil case.
Its my 2nd round of using 5w20 valvoline full synthetic oil. Im hoping this is just extra sludge/debris being cleaned out? After reading around It sounds like it could be a much more serious problem with bearing, or pistons/rings.
This car has a serious problem with oil consumption, I always try to stay on top of oil levels and am actually taking it in to the dealership to have it Flashed with the latest TSB for it. Just got a new battery, fuel injectors cleaned every 1-2k, throttlebody just cleaned 2k miles ago.
I literally just did an oil change and did a small trip of 300 miles, next morning had a dry start... had to add about 1/4 qt and this morning and then was fine.
Car has 98.5k miles 2009 corolla S
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I have a 95.5 Isuzu Rodeo, V6, 165k and am having a hell of a time finding parts. Apparently every issue I am having, so is everyone else by the looks of the salvage yards.
Interior door handles. All my doors went to shit within a month of each other. The black plastic piece that attaches the handle has snapped. In all of them.
Also, the tailgate will not disengage. I can press the button in front and you can hear it click, but not catch. The key will not open it either.
The back window motors are out or in the process of going out.
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