Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Antifreeze Leak - Tightening Intake Manifold Fasteners
Jun 5, 2012
I am mixed up in which fasteners I have to tighten to stop my antifreeze leak. For this, I got some pictures. Do I have to tighten these bolts? Or these? Is this the upper intake intake manifold?
I am just really lost and want to tighten the right bolts and find the torquing specs of the bolts. In the first picture, we can clearly see there is a leak there of what must be antifreeze. The stuff I have been loosing slowly over months.
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I have a 94 ranger and all of a sudden it started sputtering, i can hear a vacuum leak behind the intake manifold found what appears to be a pcv valve not hooked up is that the way it's supposed to be?
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'03 Ranger, 2.3L. Runs great except at idle. Code p0171. Replaced IAC, no luck.
Brake cleaner leak test definitely results in engine rpm change right around "butterfly rod" plug in front of intake manifold near no. 1 cyl. I'm pretty sure that's the problem - the plastic plug blew out. I watched a video showing repair, but it seems lacking.
I do not want to loosen up intake for access - I'd rather remove steering pump and gain some access to plug it up. There still isn't much access but, but eyeballing it, enough to plug, I think.
Three steering pump bolts came out easy. The fourth one is behind fluid line - extremely difficult to access, imo.
Somehow try to remove pump for access to intake hole, or bite the bullet and remove intake manifold for access?
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I was working on my friend's '87 Ranger with 2.9 L V6, and a little bit of dirt fell into the intake manifold through the injector ports and intake ports. I should've cleaned the top of the engine with a shop vac first. Anyway, should I remove the intake manifold, or try to vacuum the bits out? It's pretty oily inside, and they might be stuck to the inside of it, so the vac might not do much. If I have to remove it, do I have to de-mesh the distributor gear to remove it, or does the distributor attach to a splined shaft? After looking at the diagrams, the answer was unclear.
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So i was thinking about buying a intake manifold for my truck and porting it and polish it. Would it be worth doing. I've decided that trying to port the heads will take up to much time and money for gaskets. Now the only reason why I am buying another stock one is so i can take my time and do it right.
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It doesn't look anything like the illistration in my Haynes book.Where are the bolts located and how many?
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Son has a 1987 ford ranger 2.9 engine 5 speed 4x4 truck. See anti freeze leaking @ the rear of the engine where the intake attaches to the block. How long to re & re the intake, ect. Is it just gaskets or what? Is it a big job?
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Just bought this truck and no check engine light was on, went to get it smogged so I could register it and it had the following fault codes: P1443, P0401, P1131, and P1132. The truck seems to run great in my opinion and even gets really good gas mileage. There is a whistle intermittently from the intake manifold area though that is at times pretty loud.
Smog tech told me these trucks are "notorious" for the check engine light going bad and that usually the entire instrument cluster has to be replaced in order to fix it. I'm a very experienced motorcycle /small engine tech but do not have much experience with car/truck engines and especially not with emissions control systems.
Again it is a 1996 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6, 4 wheel drive STX with 185,000 miles on it. Where to start or what might be the source(s) of these error codes?
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I've got a 1997 F150 with the 4.2L V6. Before I got it last summer I did some research, but apparently missed the issue with the intake manifold gasket leaks on these early engines. It seems to be a very slow leak, but obviously I want to get it fixed. I called Ford to see if it had had the recall work done on it, but all they could tell me is that there wasn't an open recall on my truck (with the exception of the recent fuel tank strap recall). Their system apparently only goes back 10 years, so they couldn't even see the freakin' recall. So, I've got a few questions:
1) I know I didn't post much info, but does this seem like an intake manifold leak?
2) Are there any special tools needed to change out the gasket myself?
3) Can you all recommend any replacement gaskets? I found a few different manufacturers of gaskets, but I'm sure some are better than others.
4) Can this issue cause the computer to throw the loose gas cap code (P0455 if I recall correctly).
5) Would it be worth it to just get a new truck? I really wanted a diesel in the first place, but I also hate to give up on a nice truck with only 115,000 miles.
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I have a 2006 F150 screw 4.6 auto 116k miles that has evidence of a small coolant leak where the intake manifold joins the head. This is on the drivers side directly under the thermostat housing. The t-stat housing is dry and the hoses all appear dry. It's just wet right at the gasket where the manifold joins the head. Reservoir is still normal so it's not leaking too much just yet.
I searched this site and youtube but didn't find any other posts. Lots of problems with older trucks with composite manifolds but nothing for this one. It looks like a part of the bottom of the manifold is plastic but the entire top and where it is leaking is all aluminum.
It seems odd that this would start in the winter time just driving back and forth to work (no load). And, yes the antifreeze is good. Just wondering if this is a known issue with this truck. Is it just a matter of replacing the gaskets or is there some other flaw I should be concerned about?
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If you have a coolant leak at the y hose for the intake manifold and the thermostat, make sure you replace the upper radiator hose as well as the y hose.
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I have a 2001 F150 Super Crew 5.4. I had a leak where the water transfer connects to the intake manifold. I decided to get a new manifold rather than trying to repair it. The new manifold from Dorman came and the gaskets were built into the manifold. I torqued the manifold to specs. I replaced everything and it starts fine.
I can hear what sounds like a leak, but can't find anything. I checked every hose that is connected and they are all snug and connected. I had the check engine light checked and it said it was running lean on both sides (p0174, p0171). Also a p0122. I thought something might have damaged the Throttle Body Position Sensor, so I replaced it...but no change.
I'm still driving it everyday because I need to. It won't change gears so smoothly sometimes. The most noticeable problem is that the A/C doesn't work. It just blows hot air. And the worst part about it is...it does it even when the air isn't turned on! I just go around with the windows down...in 95+ degree heat...with hot air blowing!
This is my first time to attempt a manifold change out. What I should check?
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Can oil leak out of Intake Manifold? i have Oil around lower intake manifold gasket. is this serious issue?
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My friend and I are working on her '03 1.8t and I noticed a huge oil leak under the intake manifold. It looks like there's a tube that has broken off and is now just spewing oil all over the place. I tried to get pics the best I could, so here they are....
I'd imagine its something that needs to be fixed asap.
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When I got my 60K service last weekend, the dealer called me and explained that I had a "very small internal leak fro an emissions canister that was leaking into the intake/manifold". He said something like that. He also said that it doesn't do anything to the performance of the car, but that the leak will increase over time and will throw a MIL.
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I have had a small antifreeze drip coming from up high around what I have been thinking was the water pump gasket. I have not pin pointed it exactly though. for the last 3 days i have been getting code po174 and now added po171 to that list. Also have something going on with my fuel fill vent or something as for a while now i have had to slowly squeeze in fuel to keep the pump from auto shut off on me like its full already. I have tried cleaning out that vent tube by spraying in carb cleaner even blowing on it but it seems to be a check valve, not able to blow in. i am thinking tonight that antifreeze leak may be related to those codes too. any thoughts? its on my 2003 ranger 3.0 flex fuel.
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This is for a Pontiac Vibe. I broke one of the bolts that connects the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold. Need to get some type of nut/bolt/spring that I could use to fix it. The bolt is sticking out of the flange about 3/4" if I had a long nut to screw onto that?...........
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I would like to install a cold air intake in my 2011 Ford Ranger. What brand should I go for? Volant or K&N?
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My 2002 2.8 diesel ranger has recently been serviced replacing the turbo and a complete overhaul on the engine performed. I road tested it and it runs smooth... However, I am hearing a popping sound coming from the intake air filter. I was told it is because of the new turbo installed.
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1990 Bronco II, 2.9l, auto, 4x4. Was running just fine. Sitting in Park just idling away. All of a sudden, just starts running real rough, ticking, etc.
Towed it home. This morning, started up OK but still running really rough.
While running, pulled spark plug wires one at a time from the drivers side. Had no effect but could tell the wires were sparking as I held them up to metal.
Turned truck off. Drivers side exhaust manifold COLD, passenger side HOT.
This sounds real bad to me. Am I missing something simple that could cause the drivers side of the engine to not work?
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Looking for any pictures or directions on replacing the intake manifold on the 2004 F150, 5.4. Got all the parts with the pulgs, and ignition coils.
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