Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Airbag Warning Light Blinking / Bad Lamp In Deactivation Switch
Sep 28, 2004
I have a 98 Ranger 2wd reg cab 2.3L 5sp. Recently the airbag warning light was blinking 2-7 which indicates bad lamp in passenger airbag deactivation switch. Since the lamp has no numbers or markings on it, and my repair manual has no schematic on that part, where I can find the ma, wattage or ohm rating of the lamp? Or a part number / source for a replacement lamp?
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The warning light on the dash of my '96 ranger 4.0, auto with 233k miles started coming on. The only thing I have done recently was to replace my battery. Just trying to figure it out.
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The cruise control switch on my 2000 Ranger just broke. It looks like you have to remove the airbag to access it. How is that accessed? It looks like there are 2 plugs on the back of the wheel that need to be removed.
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After a cold night when I turn the ignition on only the airbag (blinking) and the battery (steady) icons come on. No cranking - nothing...After a few anxious tries the full set of icons come on and the car starts.No problems during the day. The battery is one year old.The 2007 Ranger (3L engine) has 180,000miles.I've tried my spare ignition key - no difference.Is this a PAS issue or a sticking relay?...
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My son has a 99 Ranger where the airbag light is flashing code 32. I had the same code on my F350 and it was the clock spring. What it could be. It is 99 Ranger with 2.5l, auto trans, 2wd, no CC.
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How can I shut off the air bag light on my 1999 ranger? I was in a minor accident and I had to replace the bumper, the light came on after the accident.
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So i just bought a b4000 pickup 5spd .. Anyway the truck has eletrical 4x4 with manual hubs. When i turn the switch nothing happens. The 4wd/4wd low lights both flash 6x then go off then flash again while running , driving, koeo, anytime like an obd1 check engine light code flashing. Anyway i checked the wiring for the 4wd switch no power, went to the fuse interior no pwr, went to the engine fuse box power. You don't hear the transfer case engage at all as well.
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My 2002 Ford Airbag light is flashing 46. I believe this is the Drivers side crash senor. I am repairing the left front fender and left front wheel suspension. I have replaced the two air bags and airbag control module. Where is the left front crash sensor?
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I've got a 1992 Ford Ranger 2.3L with about 240,000 miles on it. The check engine light started blinking on and off pretty regularly so I pulled the OBD1 continuous memory codes and came up with this.
327 - EVP/EPT circuit below minimum voltage
328 - EGR closed valve voltage lower than expected
334 - EGR closed valve voltage high
I can't say these codes mean a whole lot to me besides I've got issues with my EGR valve and possibly the EGR valve position sensor. I was thinking I'd start by replacing the EGR valve.
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The air bag light stays on & the blower in not working. I checked the fuses good.
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Not sure the problem is related.
The horn no longer works. The air bag light is on, on the dashboard.
I have checked all the fuses and they appear to be good.
How would I diagnose this problem?
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I noticed the passenger side on/off switch for the airbag doesn't illuminate anymore on my 98 Ranger. Whether I turn the key on the switch to on or off it doesn't illuminate either way. The airbag light on the dash flashes showing, counting a code 27 and then it stays on. I also noticed the seat belts on symbol doesn't illuminate and in the owner's manual it says it should illuminate and chime. I remember it use to illuminate but I don't remember a chime.
Someone with a 98 that has a seat belt reminder light that illuminates and chimes until you fasten the seat belt? I don't know if that and the airbag code is related. But I want to fix both? I guess the simplest one to tackle first would be the seat belt light/chime. I don't see a fuse for it. I guess I need to know first is it really suppose to chime.
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I have a 2001 Ranger 4.0L 4x4 with 101,000 miles on it. I went to go get in it the other day and the Air Bag Light came on out of the blue. I've drove it some since and it is still on. The light blinks for about 1 minute upon startup and then stays on solid for the remainder of the trip. What would make this come on so suddenly and is there anything I can do/check?
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The parking brake instrument cluster lamp is enabled by a small switch at the foot operated park brake mechanism. The switch is attached to chassis electrical ground. The switch has one wire attached to it. So when the switch is enabled it connects chassis ground to the wire therein turning on the cluster lamp. With the wire disconnected from the switch the lamp stays on. This tells me the wire is grounded somewhere. Brilliant deduction eh?
So here's my question. How/where that wire is routed? I lose sight of it approx. 2-inches from the switch where it disappears behind the brake mechanism mounting bracket. I plan to unbolt that bracket to see if that might be where the wire is being shorted to ground. But if it's not pinched there, where do I go from there?
(2001 Ranger, 4liter-2wd)
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I finally got around to trying to fix my inop cruise control. Did the self test and got a flash code 2, BPP switch. I replaced the switch but its still inop and still have flash code 2. Got my meter out and started checking system.
I found the fuse in the deactivation switch recall harness was bad. I removed the harness and plugged the two remaining connectors together and the cruise works. I returned home and unplugged so it wouldnt short out. The connectors are clean and no signs of fluid.
Says on jumper harness that the fuse isnt serviceable and to replace with 9F924 harness. Well the fuse is serviceable and the harness ohms out good. Is there a need to buy a new harness or would I be ok with a new 5 amp fuse?
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What is the likely culprit? No other electrical issues, brake light quit working when brake is depressed, all other lights work including blinkers/running/head. Was going to break out a wiring diagram....
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'92 Ranger 2WD, brake and light inspection revealed the warning light isn't coming on. I guess there is a light that would come on in the instrument cluster either when the e-brake is on, or there is a problem in the system. The shop guy says often junk just builds up and prevents it from working; guess I will remove it to clean it up first. Guess it could also be a burned out bulb in the cluster. My Haynes book isn't very good on this.
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I have a '99 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD. I've been having this problem with my rear brakes locking up on me while slowing down and pressing the pedal to stop the forward movement. There are four components which could cause the problem. My OEM Ranger Repair Manual suggested to replace the Proportional Control Valve which I did however that did not correct the problem. I don't have the Brake nor the ABS Warning light coming on and they check out OK during the start up. I have no problems braking from any speed except when coming to a stop. I inspected my front disk and the rear shoe brakes and they seemed to look OK. The other components which could cause the problem are the Control Module, RABS valve and the Speed Sensor. My question is: If any of these components malfunction, shouldn't the ABS Warning Light come on?
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I need to replace, its either a brake pressure sensor or speed control deactivation switch . Would like to know which it is and can I get a generic one from other auto parts beside a ford dealer Can post a pic of part as soon as I figure out how to do that exactly. 2002 f250 super duty....
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After taking my car to 2008 Lexus GS 350 AWD for an oil change and recall fix, I noticed my iJDMToy LED Parking Lights and Xentec HID for Fog Lamps have stopped working and just blink a very low light the entire time. The parking light starts working fine when the main head lights are off, but as soon as I turn them on, they start to blink again. The fog lamps just constantly blink at a low light level while on. Here is an example:
Light issues - YouTube
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I need Vag-Com to reset a failed lamp warning light . . . I'm assuming because I ended up pulling the switch out too far, which commands the rear fog light to come on, which doesn't exist, I caused the "lamp failure" warning light and chime to come on and NOT GO OFF (I installed my new Euro headlight switch last night).
I checked and have no dead lamps. I put the old switch back in for a bit but it's still reporting a failed lamp. I searched for this problem before posting but the search engine on this site is extremely poor ... .Couldn't find anything in the manual either. It assumes we're idiots because it says a certified mechanic should change the lamps but oh, carry extras with you !!??
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