Ford Ranger / B-Series :: AC Just Sends All The Air To Defrost Vents When Apply The Throttle
Aug 6, 2016
I have a different issue than the typical heat on max ac. Mine is actually cold, it just sends all the air to the defrost vents when i apply the throttle. Comes back to the dash vents when I let off the gas.
I know that it's vacuum lines or solenoid, I just wanted to see if any guess on which specific line to check or any other info since I do NOT have a gauge to measure the vac lines for pressure.
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I have a 2002 Ford Ranger 3.0L truck that, all of a sudden, has a problem with the HVAC system that blows air only thru the defrost vents even when selecting any other vent levels (defrost, face/middle or floor levels).
I did find a thread on another forum regarding this problem, only it was for the 95-01 Ranger model years, yet they say that the 2002 Ranger is not the same as those earlier models.
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There is always something.... I just drove my girlfriend's new 2003 ranger edge home from the seller. Real nice truck. I noticed the heater selector doesn't change the air flow. It is on full blast for the defrosters, and is also trickling out of the floor and dash vents. No matter where you put the selector, thats the only place the air comes out.
The temp control seem to work OK, when you turn it on cold, you get cold air and visa versa. Even on AC and MAx AC... air out the defrosters. It's cold when you turn the temp control to cold.
I did some searching here and gather some info on checking the vac lines etc. Everything looks in place but one detail. The vac ball under the hood under the air box has 2 ports on the front end, and only one grey line going into it. The other port has what looks like a rubber boot and part of a very short vac line broken off it.
I looked, I cant find any loose vac lines. I'd like to know if this second port is suppose to have a second line on it, and where does it go? What color is it? Is this the reason the vent selector isnt working?
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I recently found out that my check valve needs replacing for my a/c vacuum. The problem came from when I turn my AC on, the panel vents do not work. Instead, the Defrost vents push the AC air out. How to replace the vacuum check valve? I would like to avoid the high cost of dealership prices.
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I have a weird issue. When I'm running AC on my 2.3l ranger sometimes the idle wont go down but rather hold its current RPMs till i either turn the AC off or place the truck back in gear. What that could be?
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in my 2008 ford Ranger Sport with a V6. The smell reminds me of one winter when I had stepped in dog and didn't know it until I was four miles down the road and the heater was on full blast. The smell floods the cabin when the heater is first turned on and warms up, but dissipates after a while. (And I don't have dog on the floor boards or on my boots.)
The smell does not come out the AC vents or when the AC was operated this past summer.
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1986 Ranger 2.3 inline 4
I just recently bought an 86 Ranger from a friend. It had recently stopped working and had no desire to fix it. So here I am. The truck will sit in park and rev all day long, once its in drive it idols fine and moves its self down the street. The problem occurs when I apply throttle. It begins to bog down and I cannot get past 20mph. I have replaced the fuel regulator and also I took the tank down and replaced the fuel pump. The fuel filter is two months old, and the throttle response sensor is two weeks old.
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I have a 2002 Ranger 4.0 4x4 Off-road. Over the weekend I started hearing a squeaking sound that varied with the throttle, so I guessed the u-joints needed work. I took it in (no garage or tools available atm), and the garage called me later in the day saying my driveshaft was unrepairable, that I needed a new one. I told them to hold off.
Now, a little research found me some sites claiming that Ford did indeed make some disposable driveshafts, with pinned u-joints, but in the F-series, not the Ranger.
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2002 Ranger XLT 4WD 4.0.. I was passing another car at about 55 when they also started speeding up (go figure) so I floored it and got on around them but before I lifted I felt it miss, the CEL began flashing so I slowed to the speed limit and went on to work. The light flashed for about a mile then went out. So on the way home I floored it again close to home and the CEL came on again. Got home and put the code reader on it and all it had was a random misfire so I have cleared it. The truck has new plugs, wires, etc for a complete tune-up. I don't usually run at full throttle so don't know if that would be normal for the Ranger, the Ranger was my wife's truck for 12 years and now is my DD. Need to clear this up? Thought of changing the fuel filter in that is still the original one.
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My ranger is an 89 but it's got a 91 motor in it, 2.9 V6. When I accelerate it hesitates before actually accelerating which makes me think the TPS is bad. Probed and tested and I got .85V throttle closed and 4.65 at wide open. Specs call for .8V - 4.5V
I'm not sure if there's an allowance of fluctuation, but is that high enough to point out a bad TPS? If it's not the TPS, is the ignition timing off or what else could it be?
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4.0. I'm having what feels Like a Miss on Light throttle/cruise. Once warmed up it's fine. Idle is fine too. There is No CEL/Codes.
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I am pretty sure my heater core is failing and has been for a while (no drip, but coolant smell). Today when I turned on the A/C, I got a nasty, smokey mist from the vents along with the cold air. The fog/mist smells like coolant but with a burned, somewhat oily smell.
2004 ranger, 3.0, 2wd, ext cab, 193,000 mi --- also, what if any, special tools do I need to R&R heater core. The last heater core I did was an 83 GMC p/u and it was a breeze; handful of sockets and I was done - I have heard the ranger will be quite a bit tougher.
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I have this 03 3.0 flex fuel that as of lately (2 months) has developed a whistle when throttle is pressed half way or more.... not sure what or where its coming from..
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I have a 2000 3.0l ranger. I have been battling an ignition problem. every time the engine is cold it runs terrible like only 3 or 4 cylinders running terrible. if u put a timing light on the wires the pulse comes and goes on random wires. and when it quits that it has a random sputter at idle and misses around 4k when u get into the throttle ...
I have replaced plugs twice and the coil with motorcraft parts and the wires are new autolites. I have also replaced the thermostat and fan clutch it was getting hot in the middle of this other issue ...
Every time I replace something it runs great for a few days then back to running terrible again. am I missing something else do I need to look at a computer or map or tps sensors, or something like that ...
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Started the other day. Seems like the blend door that channels air to the dash vents is opening and closing as it feels like it. Sometimes open for awhile, sometimes closed. The defrost vents keep blowing cold and normal while doing this.
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I've got a '94 Ranger with the 4.0L OHV and an Automatic trans. When I start, hot or cold, it has quick lifter knock for only a fraction of a second. This same knock comes back if I hold the throttle over 3K with NO LOAD on the engine. With any load, I cannot make it knock. With no load, though, it becomes very loud, especially with more RPMs. at idle and slightly above, there is a slight tick that can only be heard with the bonnet up, and then it is only slightly noticeable. I think that this tick is unrelated, but I figured I should share that information. For oil, I run Pennzoil high mileage 10W-30, changed 3000 miles religiously. Purolator filter, PL30001. I can understand the startup knock, but I can't see why it seems to produce the same knock at high RPMs under NO load.
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The Problem: When I start my Ranger it dies right away, I do this about 10 times or so (worse when it is wet or has rained) then I can finally keep it running, by hitting the gas. Once I get it running it will cut out while driving as well. The idle is normal and if fires properly, I just took it in to the shop (non-dealer) and they said it fires normal and has normal fuel pressure, and the their computer returned no error codes. Their sugestion was replace the throttle position sensor. Do you all think this part could be the cause and where is the this sensor and is it hard to replace?
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My 1995 ranger was running just fine then today overheats in five minutes and then runs at very high rpms, has 2yr old water pump new tstat don't think head is blown no water in oil no white smoke no water on the oil cap, I haven't check the plugs for water, stated raining no garage, when engine is cold starts runs fine,but when it gets hot its like a train...
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I have an 03 Ranger 4.0 4x4 5 speed. It has no power, can't give throttle or it bogs real bad. Baro shows 18in vac with KOEO. When running it has 15in vac. Replaced MAF, fuel pump, and fuel filter.
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I'm having problems starting my truck. The second it catches, it just dies right away. It doesn't stay running even if I keep giving it throttle. Although when I did try to start it 5-10 times the other day, one of those times, it started and stayed on for about 5 seconds then died again. What to check? I'm a complete newbie when it comes to this vehicle, but I would consider myself mechanically inclined since I've worked with newer cars and smaller engines before.
Also I don't know if this might be related, but I recently changed the oil & oil filter in the truck (after not having changed it for a long time).... and it was a castrol full synthetic high mileage oil. It ran and shifted a lot better for about a week before this starting problem happened. I checked the oil level and it's still perfect so I know it's not leaking oil or anything like that. Just wanted to throw this in there just in case.
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Have a 99 Ranger XLT, 4 cyl, manual transmission with 191K miles. Was running good as ever last night but went to start it this morning and throttle's stuck open, causing truck to move forward when in 1st gear. Even with clutch in, near impossible to get vehicle in or out of gear. Managed to get it into reverse, but truck was having none of it. What is the cause or causes of my trouble? Or how much the repairs might cost? I'm on the road so no chance of doing this myself.
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