Ford Ranger / B-Series :: AC Compressor Starts Seizing Up And Burning The Clutch
Aug 15, 2016
So I just got done with my first 2 problems of the month with this truck last week. Front end and emissions along with spark plugs. Now, 4 days later this morning, I'm driving the truck trying enjoy the investment, and the AC compressor starts seizing up and burning the clutch. Unrelated but also worth noting, about an hour later the brake pedal gets real soft and the brakes get really sloppy at stopping the truck. The truck also stalled (auto trans) crossing a highway, luckily it was 5am and no traffic was coming.
I'm at $6k invested on a truck with 116,000 miles, and I've only put 6,000 on it. The repairs don't stop, and I've got many more ahead. Like rear suspension, axle, trans, and radiator fluids, and paint, to name a few. Any suggestions on fixing the AC before I drive this truck into a lake?
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When I am at idle, the compressor keeps turning on and off every few seconds. It seems to work fine while driving. What do I need to do to fix this?
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My compressor on my 92 Ranger did not have any clutches on it. Where they went. I got a compressor off of a 94 at the pick and pull. It was charged and the compressor turned fine. Brought it home and tried to install it. My hoses in the back of mine(92) are different than the 94. I went back and got the hoses, condenser and evaporator off of the 94. Put it all together. The high pressure hose on the 94 has some sort of switch on the high pressure side. What is this switch for and how can I wire it in to the electrical system on the 92? I assume it is some sort of pressure switch that allows the system to flow. I'm getting 30 pounds on the low side and 150-200 ponds on the high side. Also, when I increase the RPM's, the compressor kicks on and off. It's not like it would or should normally but fast.
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I have a 2001 ranger 4x4 4.0 L with what appears to be a unique a/c problem. Over the last week the compressor will not kick on immediately and seems to randomly decide when it is going to function. Once it starts, it runs properly and cools well, until I turn the engine off and it is back to square one. We have checked the coolant level and it is full. the problem seems to be getting progressively worse....At first it took about 15 minutes for it to decide to trip, then 30 minutes, and yesterday I drove for over an hour and the compressor never kicked on.
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I have a '90 Bronco II w/ the 2.9L V6 with a head/gasket issue leak. Its burning oil/coolant in #3 cylinder drivers side. I would ask this in the B2 section, but the Ranger section seems to have alot more activity.
I'm wondering what my options are. I'd like to replace the head with a better aftermarket design if possible. I've seen World Products mentioned as a good replacement, but they are no longer making them anymore. Nearest I cant tell, that leaves King and Odessa aka Clearwater heads. On the 'bay Odessa doesn't have the greatest feedback. King looks like a good product, but kinda spendy also. Short of those two, re-man is the only other option.
The casting # on my head doesn't line up either, is the 86TM the better Euro head for the Merkur?
If I keep this engine, w/o doing a 4.0L conversion, I'm tempted to replace both cylinder heads because of the amount of work to tear it down to that point.
This motor has had some valve ticking also, but I've read it can be injectors instead. What should I do? This will only be used as an off highway light trail rig.
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In 4 x4 ( 2000 ford ranger 4.0 ) and drive for a while I can smell gear oil burning off the exhaust looks like it's coming out of the right cv shaft? Is there a seal that goes first That's bad?
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I've got a problem with my AC Compressor, with the AC on the compressor engages then disengages about every 5 seconds. Now I looked into it and some people said you can remove a washer to remove a gap. Do you think I should change the whole unit? Looked online and I can get one for $100. If I do work on the AC compressor to try and fix it or remove the whole unit do I need to drain any refrigerant etc etc. I have a hayness repair booklet and they said that to remove the ac compressor you need to get it drained by professionals. Although on the compressor I only see a electrical plug and no hoses.
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I have a 2001 Mazda B3000. The a/c compressor is coming on while I'm running my heat. The air coming out while the heat is on stays warm. However, when I was running the A/C during the summer the air would start blowing out warm after it had been on for a while. Several people told me it may have something to do with the blend door or blend door actuator but both appear to be working fine. What it could be?
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I am in the process of removing the lower intake on my 99 Ranger 4.0. I was unscrewing the AC Compressor to get it out of the way and also started to unscrew a bolt on the backside of the compressor because it wasn't moving well due to the metal tube on the backside. I think this is the tube to the condenser? Anyways it started spraying air and green fluid everywhere. I got it to stop for now but if I tighten or loosen the bolt it seems to spray. Also it looks like a green o ring or gasket of sort is showing now which I don't remember. What is it and what should I do?
[URL] .....
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This is a question in general about Fords. My 98 Ranger doesn't do it. He's got a 1987 Ford Mustang 5.0 with original factory a/c. He changed his compressor to a used one and it started running all the time whether the swtich was off or on. He said he switched back to his original compressor and it still does it. I figured it might be something common for Ford a/c systems so I figured I would ask. I'm not sure why it would be unless the mode switch was bad.
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I own a 1990 Ford Ranger, 2.3 EFI with an 8 Plug setup and 2WD. It uses a dual-coil system an not a distributor if that means anything here.
Okay, so for the last week I have been experiencing extremely high oil pressures. My gauge would read almost as high as the "H" mark. The smell of burning oil was heavy in the cab from the vents. I took it easy, made sure my oil level was good and I had enough oil, the truck drove rough, but drove decent.
Yesterday, I got done sliding in some mud (not crazy bouncing or anything, just sliding). I stopped at a stop sign, turned around and hit the gas, and the truck died. I thought there were other issues not related to oil, however I noticed that the oil gauge now read about an inch left of the "L"ow mark. If I turned the key, to the "ON" position, the gauge pushed the needle to above the left gauge itself pointing towards about the "8 oclock" area.
Now, my truck will not start. It cranks and cranks and cranks with no start. I called a bunch of mechanics and none of them knew what I should do. AutoZone did not know what do, no one did. Some people said that the oil pump itself had gone out and that would cause the truck not to start and would cause gauge issue. Others said that it might be as small as the Oil Pressure Switch. Firstly, I bought a new Pressure Switch. Have not installed it because I cannot find the damn thing.
Where the switch OFFICIALLY is. I have read on Google that it is on the passenger side, at the rear end of the cylinder head. Other posts say it is by the oil filter...
PICTURES:
Without the key in the ignition:
With the key in the ignition, in the "ON" position:
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When I turn the control to heat the AC compressor kicks in. If turned to vent it does not kick in. Was this just a design flaw.
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I have a 1995 Ford Ranger 4 cyl w/ hydraulic clutch, about 95k miles, and an intermittent problem. Normally, my clutch works fine, but a few times a year, normally during the summer, and normally only after driving for a half hour or more, it starts to act up. First, the pedal starts to feel a little spongy. Then, I'll depress the clutch, and when I release it, the peddle comes up, but the clutch does not engage; a few seconds later, the clutch engages fully instantaneously, which usually stalls the engine if I am stopped.
Then, when I try to reengage the clutch so that I can restart the engine, the clutch is very stiff, and I have to pump it a few times, at which time it will depress easily, and then I am usually back to the original problem where the peddle comes up but the clutch does not engage. When I finally make it home and the truck sits for awhile, the clutch then works fine again. I think it is the orig clutch. I have talked to several mechanics about this problem (including the Ford garage!), and they are mystified. One mechanic thinks that it is a problem with the master and slave cylinder combo, and can replace them.
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88 ranger. 2.9L manual. Just bought this truck. It ran great when I bought it. After a day or 2 it would idle rough. Almost die but it wouldn't. No check engine light. It seemed to do this intermittently. Some times I'd start it and it be fine. Other times I'd start it and I'd expect it to die at each stop light.
Now for the last couple days it dies on every start up. It won't idle. It'll start right away and then die. I can keep it going by keeping the engine rev'd but the check engine light is one. If I keep it running and start driving down the road it'll drive with the check engine light on for about 5 minutes. Then the light goes out and it runs like normal, even at idle, until I shut it off. Then it's the same story at next start whether it's right after I shut it off or hours later.
It doesn't seem to matter whether the engine is hot or cold. When the check engine light is out, it runs great the rest of the time whether at speed or at idle. To me it sounds like a sensor is on it way out. I figure if it was vacuum, it happen at every idle, and if it was fuel it happen all the time or at least every idle. Tried to get a code at parts store but the reader wouldn't work. It couldn't tell it was plugged in the the truck for some reason.
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i have a 97 ranger xl with 2.3. it was recently crashed in the front, air bags deployed. i fixed the bodywork but couldn't get it to run properly. it starts but will not idle. i have replaced the iac , evr , maf. fuel pressure holds 35-40 psi running does not leak down after engine stops
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1999 ranger 2.5L.. I cranked it up. but it starts to die out. so when i give it some gas it stays on but it runs really rough (obviously). it shakes pretty nice. but as soon as i let off the gas it dies out. I am guessing its either air or fuel related. Any takers? Where should i start?
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I have a 2005 ranger SOHC 4.0 new rebuilt engine It starts then dies after a few seconds then doesn't start at all unless it sets for a few hours or over night and will do same thing. It has 60 psi on fuel rail, good spark I'm starting to think my PCM is causing all this?
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I have a 1999 ford ranger 2.5L. When I turn the key to the ON position, right before the ignition turn, everything comes on like it's supposed too. However, if i try to change into reverse, the truck will start without me even touching the key. Also, if I start it using the key and try to go into reverse, the starter engages and makes the all to familiar grinding sound. I am completely stumped.
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I have a 2003 ford ranger xlt 4.0L and here recently my ac compressor has been making a loud click noise engaging even though i am not using heat or AC, so when it engages the rpms drop and almost wants to stall and it does this in about 10-15 sec. intervals, but when I am driving it acts fine. What is going on here, I recently had a vacuum leak and i found it and fixed it, and now this issue just started.
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This morning, I shifted into neutral and left the truck running. When I got in it put it in reverse, the shifter peddle went all the way to the floor and the clutch did not engage. I turned off the engine, and the transmission shifted easily. I put it into reverse, started the engine, and when I tried to shift back into first, the same thing happened. Pedal to the floor with no resistance, and I could not get it into gear. I finally forced it into 1st to get back into the driveway, but had to stall the engine to keep from going through the garage door. The clutch would not disengage at any time. I checked the master cylinder and it is 1/2 full. Has my clutch gone out?
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When I got home today I went to back into my parking spot and couldn't get my truck in reverse, or any other gear for that matter.
I've been suspecting something was going to go wrong because the last few weeks or so when I push the clutch in it sounded like bb's rolling around in a metal coffee can. Since I have owned it (2 yrs) the clutch has seemed funny anyhow, as in I really have to feather it so it doesn't grab and stall out.
So I've visually inspected what I can so far. Master cylinder fluid is at a proper level and I pulled the inspection cover on the transmission. I didn't see any fluid and reached inside and there wasn't residue in there either. I observed the throwout bearing pushing the clutch cover fingers in when the pedal is pressed and that is about it.
Just wondering about some additional checks I can perform to pinpoint the problem, as well as how to fix it and get rolling again.
1999 Ford Ranger 4x4 XLT
3.0 V6
134,xxx miles
No modifications
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