Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 4wd Does Not Work - No Clicking In Kick Panel
Nov 16, 2014
Bought an 01 Ranger 4x4. The 4wd doesn't work, no clicking in kick panel, lights etc. got a used unit and plugged it in, blew my brake switch fuse (#9 on side dash) I failed to disconnect the negative ground ( oops) the original part # in the truck is
1L547H417AC
Do I need to get the exact same part number on a donor vehicle? I can get a CM for 25.00 at a local pick n pull, they have a lot or explorers there. Also will this solve my fuse issue? The truck sat for a few months and the battery died before I owned it.
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I have a 1999 GMC Jimmy 4.3 Vortec. When you turn the key it doesn't roll over, all I can hear is a click in the passenger kick panel. I have checked the starter solenoid with a jumper and it is fine. After a ton of checking with a multimeter and swapping fuses and relays I found something- when I remove the 40A "ign A" fuse in the fuse panel under the hood and plug it back in, I turn the key and it fires right up and stays running. However if I shut it off and try to start a second time, it doesn't roll over and begins clicking in kick panel again.
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It started doing this fairly recently - no work has been performed - it just decided to not work right one day... The A/C compressor will not engage until after the engine is hot - the idiot gauge on the dash has to be firmly in the middle. After it engages, though, hoo boy does it blow cold - which is great, except I didn't used to have to wait as long to get cold air... It does cycle.
I thought, okay - low coolant - I get one of those refill bottles of r134a (w/ "conditioners" and whatnot) with an attached gauge at walmart and pump it into the truck - no change. Gauge was cheesy - told myself to get a better one.
I wait a while and get another bottle of refill r134a - one with a better gauge on it - and try again. Truck doesn't want any more - I may have overfilled, but there's no change - before the compressor kicks in, the gauge reads in the red - overcharge - but once the compressor kicks in, it drops and starts reading in the green and, when I checked per ambient temp, it was a bit in the high-end of the green for that temp, but was fine. I have no way of checking the high-pressure port.
Is there a temp switch of some kind on this system? I don't think it's low on r134a, but something is keeping the compressor from kicking on like it used to.
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My 2004 Ford Ranger has 220,000 miles, runs great, and when I bought it this summer the 4 wheel drive worked great. Starting when the weather got cold when I engage the 4 wheel drive (no lockouts electronic engagement). I will drive and it will kick in and out of 4 wheel drive when it starts to slip or I have to accelerate.
When the 4 wheel drive kicks out I will let off the gas then it will engage again on its own, but will slip out again when on ice or I start to slip. When the 4 wheel drive engages it does NOT make any strange sounds, no clunking or nothing, it engages smoothly, and disengages properly.
What it could be? a connection? Any way to fix or diagnose the problem? I have been told that it probably is not the transfer case, because if it were it would not engage or stay in 4 wheel drive at all.
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My 1989 Ford Ranger 2,9 V6 is acting up like crazy (engine hesitation) after kick down (it has an automatic transmission).
It can run like a charm for days and days and for the longest drives, but if I do a kick down it will start acting up (while both cruising or idling). This is making it almost impossible to drive as it looses speed. Only way to accelerate again is to do another kick down (then it will accelerate smoothly for as long as I keep my foot down), but that is really no solution as it will accelerate way past the speed limits and the mpg is horrible going up and down like that.
A couple of times this problem has seemed to solved itself after a while of engine hesitation but normally it would be acting up for the whole drive. On the other hand it will be okay again the next time I take it out for a drive.
Diagnostics: It has nothing to do with the temperature of the motor as this will happen after a kick down on both a cold or hot engine.
Simple solution so far: Avoid kick down!
What I have done so far: I have changed the spark plugs, the plug wires, the distributor rotor and the distributor cap with no luck.
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I have posted on here before about this very issue, thinking it was primarily the transmission. In additon to a hard upshift/downshift (it almost feels like getting a little "kick" from behind while in the truck) I was getting a flashing O/d light, etc.
Since then the tranny died. No shifting at all. I was able to find a usable replacement from another truck (the guy sideswipped a pole, and decided he was done with it, as he tweaked the front frame slightly), which was working fine (before the accident).
I swapped the units out (trans and T/C), and the truck has life again! No flashing O/D light, nice power, and good gas mileage (I went from pre-failure 15mpg to 20mpg now).
However, the kick has never gone away.
So, what next? How much "play" should there be in the driveshaft when the vehicle is parked? I can move it a little bit. Should I consider servicing/replacing the U-joints? Or should I now suspect the rear diff to be the culprit, and how can I best determine this?
Also, can you switch out one rear end for another? If you can, is there any any paricular one that is better to use for towing/hauling as opposed to, let's say, off-roading or city driving?
As for the vehicle in question, it's a 1995 Ranger XLT extended cab with a 3.0V6 and auto trans. I believe it's supposed to have a limited-slip diff, but how do I determine this?
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I've a 1994 Ranger XLT 4.0L with a missing fuse panel cover. I'm trying to get the horn to work and we've traced the problem to a missing fuse. Unfortunately, there are 3 empty fuse slots and no info on their rating or use. Where I can get the proper info. Truck was a salvage, no ops manuals, and sloppy work putting it together.
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I just finished replacing the instrument panel light bulbs on my 1997 Ranger XL, 2.3L, 2WD pickup. I wanted to share how I did this. First of all, if you never have done this before, go slow and take your time removing the dash panels as they are plastic molding and break easily. Allow yourself about an hour to complete the task. You will need smaller sized hand sockets to remove the screws. The very first thing you should do is remove the negative battery cable from the battery. This way you will not risk shorting out anything electrical as well as possibly triggering the airbag in the steering wheel column.
The key piece in starting the process is to remove the radio first and then central console panel that houses the radio. It pops out very easily by gently prying it out in the four corners. Once you get that piece out remove the screws the support the lower knee panel. In order to get that piece off you will have to remove the two screws the hold the hood release lever in place. Get under the dashboard and look up as you lay looking upward near the brake pedal. Pull the hood release lever and you will see the two gold screws. Remove them. This will free up the panel on the under side. The top side of the panel will pop out if you pry it gently on the top two corners.
Next, you will see a metal panel underneath the knee panel. Remove this metal panel as well. Now you will be able to remove the instrument cluster panel piece. There are some visible screws holding this in place, remove them and gently pry the cluster panel out. Once the cluster panel cover is out you will have to actually remove the gauge cluster itself by removing the the four screw bolts that secure it in place. After the screws are out, gently work it out of the dash slowly as you will need to disconnect three electric plug harnesses in the back.
After it is unplugged and out, on the backside of the instrument cluster you will see some round, black colored thumb screw bulb housings that house the light bulb. Just twist them and turn making sure to go in the right direction. Feel it out for the direction, I cannot remember which way it turns. The bulb housings are labeled "ILL" on the circuit overlay. I recommend you replace all the bulbs as you might not want to have to do this again in the near future. Once all the bulbs are tightly seated and installed just reverse the above process for installation. This is a fairly easy job and like I said it takes about an hour. Make sure you test the lights after finishing.
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Jow to best remove the passenger side kick panel on my 2001 superduty. There is a plug I am looking for to make the clearance lights work. It looks like the kick panel continues under the door threshold. I don't want to remove any more than I have to.
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This is probably a dumb question but what is going on here:
YouTube.....
This is with the AC running. That wheel spin and loud click (it's a lot louder in person) is starting to annoying me. When I am sitting in traffic or at lights and I have the AC running the noise is very noticible in the cab. If the AC is off the idle settles down and the click goes away. So what causes this - AC compressor going out? It needs lube? Freon?
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1999 ford ranger 2X4 manual trans. My back up lights work sometimes and sometimes not.
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Any schematic of the vacuum lines for a 99 Ranger with the 2.5 motor? I don't mean the general overview decal under the hood, but rather one that specifically includes the HVAC lines. I have two problems... one being that I have no MAX A/C (recirc does not work) and the other being that the vac line is busted off the heater core isolation valve and I can't find the other end of it (the end that supplies vacuum to open the valve).
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i have a 2001 ranger 4x4 the problem is sometimes it will switch into 4 wheel drive and sometimes it wont just hear clicking noise ,i'm preety sure it doenst have a vaccum.
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In my 08 Ranger, when I'm filling up with gas, and I flip the lever on the handle of the pump so that it stays on, and then gently let the nozzle rest, in all my older cars it would stay on until the tank was full, and then just click off. But in the Ranger, it clicks off randomly, with nothing to do with the amount in the tank. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the angle of the nozzle, because when I hold the nozzle lightly from where the hose enters the nozzle, so that the spigot it at a different angle, it doesn't click off.
Is this a design flaw? (because it's not like any other car out there in that respect) and can I do anything about it?
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I have a 96 ford ranger 4cyl 5 spd. I've only had it for a month or so, but I've noticed on cold mornings my odometer won't work. The trip or the total mileage. I can hear the odometer cable clicking. Once the cab gets warmed up it'll start working. It's only happened twice, at about 50 degrees or lower, so I can only imagine what'll happen once winter kicks in. Where to go from here? I was thinking maybe it needs to be re-lubed or something...
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My oil pressure gauge does not work. I was told that it's most likely the sensor. Where would I find this to change it out?
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I have a 1988 Ranger with the 2.9. 2wd, xlt. It seems that my wipers have no power. I put a test light in the fuse panel where the 6A cb is and no light. To verify I wasn't doing something wrong, I put it in the dome light and tester came on. I tried with the wiper switch on interval, low & hi. I can't seem to find where the power comes from to follow back from the fuse panel. The washer fluid doesn't work either. No clicking from relays or anything.
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I have inherited a 1992 Ford Ranger 4.0 with an unusual problem. When the temp drops outside the truck will not crank. The relay is coming on for a sec or 2 to bring the system up to pressure but the pump never turns on. This happens every time the outside temp drops below 60. I can wait until later in the day or until a warm day, hit the key and drive it till it runs out of gas. A week later (and another cold front) and it is sitting dead in the front yard. I have traced the grounds, checked the power thru the relay (and replaced the relay too), but it still does this. What I want to know is am I the only one to ever run into this and if not then what is causing it. Pump shows no sings of trouble on a 70 degree day, even runs the proper pressure and volumes. I am stumped at this point and I am ready to try replacing the pump (though the one in it looks brand new). comments?
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Wiper problem is that they only work on high. The symptoms are as follow. The relay is working as the controls are ran thru the intermittent steps. I have tried two control switches and they acted the same. So, I believe the problem is in the motor. There doesn't appear to be any wire problems on the plug so it must be inside the motor. Could this be that grease problem inside the motor and it just needs to be cleaned and re-greased?
Radio, Has power to the plug but doesn't work at all. It doesn't appear to have a head unit fuse that I keep reading about. I have not tried to hook it up direct yet but will try that tonight. I am trying to get this truck ready to sell and need to get these items cleared up.
It is a 2001 XLT Extra Cab 4X4 with a 3.0.
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I am normally on the super duty side but I have a 2002 ranger 3.0 auto EX cab if that matters with this issue. My cruse control will only come on rarely but when i does it works fine. Most of the time when I hit the ON button the indicator only blinks like a "relay" of some sort is not latching up. Don't know if this is an all solid state system or if there are electro mechanical relays involved as well. When it does work and I hit the brakes it will drop out completely rather than just disconnect from the controller and need to hit the ON button again, usually with no results.
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I've got a new to me 97 Ranger that the blower has never worked in and I can't get it going. I've checked the fuse. That's good. Tested the relay. That's good. Did an ohm test on the power switch for the blower. It's open in the "OFF" position and closed in the other positions. I've got continuity through the speed selector switch. New resistor and pigtail because the other one was nasty looking. What seems odd to me is that I've only got power to the blower motor relay at one terminal with the switch on (number 30 I believe). In addition, when I test the plug for the motor itself with my test light, one of the wires (org/blk I think) has power only when the switch is off. And I ran power straight to the fan from the battery and it spun right up. What am I missing?
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