Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 3.0 VS 4.0 Engine?
Sep 27, 2014
Opinions welcomed...thinking of taking a gamble on an '04 with 248k miles on it.....not sure what engine is in it.
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Sep 27, 2014
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Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2004 - Engine 3.0 Or 4.0?
thinking of taking a gamble on an '04 with 248k miles on it.....not sure what engine is in it.
View 11 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Top End Engine Cleaner
Does running a can of top end cleaner through your engine like Seafoam foul your oxygen sensors? should they be removed beforehand?
View 3 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1986 - Engine Won't Firing
i have a 1986 ford ranger with a bored out 2.9 v6 that is not getting spark sent to the spark plugs disrtibutor has been changed along with spark plug wires any clue what the problem is
View 1 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1986 - Gas Will Not Keep Engine Running
1986 Ford Ranger / 2.3 EFI / 140 CID OHC /4-Cyl/5 speed
So the last time I was here, I was having doggy issues which I thought were fuel related. I'm still having issues, although it appeared to cleared up a bit.
When I start the engine, it cranks over, I'd give it some gas, it would rev up, then suddenly die, no matter if I pressed down on the gas pedal or not. After two or three times doing this, it would turn over and maintain a steady idle, then off I go.........
The problem now? Well, late today I tried to get it going, and after about 15 times, I gave up. It would not stay idling, it would crank over then die. I did not want to ruin the starter. It seems the gas pedal is worthless after the engine decides to conk out, and no matter how many times I step on the gas pedal, nothing happens.
Has been replaced within the last few months:
Fuel filter regulator,
Inline fuel filter,
Cap and rotor,
Lucas fuel injector cleaner,
ECC computer, and Fuel relay switches, (multi-function relay/connector switch)
Air Control Valve - Removed and cleaned.
Checked all vacuum hoses.
Has not been replaced:
Map Sensor, (was told it's located on Pass. fender wall, but can't find it, according to the manual)
EGR Valve and sensor,
Throttle Position Sensor,
EVP sensor,
Spark plugs, (two years ago)
Plug wires, (two years ago)
Ignition control module, (replaced about six years, or more)
With trying to keep the gas going to turn it over, it does not, so to me, it seems to be more of a fuel problem than electrical, but I'm no mechanic.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Constant Engine Tick?
New motorcraft plugs, wires, and coil packs. I'm running havoline 5w30 with a motorcraft filter now. I didn't notice the tick when I got it only a few months ago, but it could have been there and not as noisy, I'm not really sure.
I've got some parts to put on when I get time. Probably be a month or 2. I have a timing belt and tensioner, water pump, block heater, drive belt, tensioner, and idler.
It's a constant tick. Worse when cold, but still there warm. Sounds like under the valve cover. I'm not afraid to get in there and fix it, just would like to hear some opinions on what it could be for sure. I've read about the lucas and high mileage oil combo maybe reducing the noise, but if its fixable, I'd like to do it when I have it torn down for the timing belt, which is original I'm sure by looking at it. I really don't like abnormal noises from my engine compartment. Bugs the crap out of me.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Engine Was Not Revving Up When Stepped On The Gas
I have a 91 ranger with the 3.0 engine. Recently the engine was not reving up when i stepped on the gas. But, it kept running and i got home. Then one day it just wouldn't start after i just shut it off. I've changed the distributor cap and rotor,fuel pump and filter.I have spark to all 6 plugs and good fuel pressure to the fuel rail. I'm leaning toward the timing. Last night I found the harmonic balancer will just spin freely. Will this stop it from firing?If it is the timing, how do I find tdc and where is the # 1 firing position on the distributor cap(no markings)?
View 14 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 2004 - A/C Won't Kick On Until Engine Is Hot
It started doing this fairly recently - no work has been performed - it just decided to not work right one day... The A/C compressor will not engage until after the engine is hot - the idiot gauge on the dash has to be firmly in the middle. After it engages, though, hoo boy does it blow cold - which is great, except I didn't used to have to wait as long to get cold air... It does cycle.
I thought, okay - low coolant - I get one of those refill bottles of r134a (w/ "conditioners" and whatnot) with an attached gauge at walmart and pump it into the truck - no change. Gauge was cheesy - told myself to get a better one.
I wait a while and get another bottle of refill r134a - one with a better gauge on it - and try again. Truck doesn't want any more - I may have overfilled, but there's no change - before the compressor kicks in, the gauge reads in the red - overcharge - but once the compressor kicks in, it drops and starts reading in the green and, when I checked per ambient temp, it was a bit in the high-end of the green for that temp, but was fine. I have no way of checking the high-pressure port.
Is there a temp switch of some kind on this system? I don't think it's low on r134a, but something is keeping the compressor from kicking on like it used to.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Engine Does Not Start Without Being Primed
Engine doesn't want to start without being primed once started ideals real good but still sometimes Bogs out on acceleration.
View 3 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Engine Light Comes On For A Few Days Then Goes Off?
I have an intermittent problem with the check engine light. While driving in town once in a while the truck runs rough for just a short time. Then the check engine light comes on for a few days then goes off. The truck runs just fine after the rough 2 minutes but the light stays on. I checked the gas cap and it's ok. I changed gas stations but no difference. Sometimes it happens then doesn't happen for another 2 weeks.
View 4 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Running The Engine For AC - ABS Light Came On
So I'm sitting in my 99 2.5L at work while we are empty, running the engine for A/C because it's quite hot out. The truck was running for a half an hour or so, not moving, and I look up from my phone at my dash, to see a brand new ABS light on....
So I've pulled out my handy code reader, but no ABS codes have arrived. Maybe my reader can't read it, or maybe I need to drive. But what could this be? And is it safe to drive the truck home tonight? Pedal pressure still feels normal.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Engine Hesitates - Got 157 And 158 MAF Sensor Fault?
Problem: engine surging/hesitation, from idle to highway speeds. It will start and run fine, just hesitates/surges when gas is applied.
Before I pulled the codes, I tried seafoam in the gas tank, cleaned MAF sensor, cleaned throttle body, checked air filter, changed fuel filter, pulled/cleaned plugs, nothing worked.
Then today I finally used a scanner and pulled codes (my CEL doesn't work) and I got 157 and 158 MAF sensor fault, high and low voltage. I am reading about 6v on the C and D terminals of the MAF, I know that is much higher than normal, but what does that tell me? Why both high and low voltage readings? Just a bad sensor, or wherever that voltage comes from, ECM?
I also pulled 189 HEGO H02S sensor fault, unable to switch/lean during part throttle. What does that mean, just a bad O2 sensor?
Last I pulled a 542, fuel pump secondary circuit fault. Does that mean the fuel pump is bad or going bad?
More importantly, what should I troubleshoot first, would any of these codes cause my problem?
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 - Engine Cranks But Won't Start
My kid is using my 94 Ranger with 215,000 miles. It quit while he was on his way to work. Engine cranks but won't start.
Fuel pressure at rail was 12 psi (Key on eng. off). I replaced fuel pump. Pressure at rail up to 20 psi. Still cranks, no start.
I replaced fuel filter. Pressure at rail up to 30 psi. Still cranks, no start.
Replaced distributor cap/rotor and plugs. I have spark at plugs.
Chiltons from 1994 doesn't list a rail fuel pressure. I see new fuel pressure regulators are set at 41 psi. I pulled mine and hooked air to it. It (FPR) cracks at 37 psi. I have lots of flow returning to tank, so I assume the fuel system is working correctly. I've never replaced the timing chain/sprockets. Distributor rotor spins during engine cranking. When I rotate the crank pulley to 0 Top Dead Center the rotor is pointing to #1 on the distributor, so I don't think the timing chain has skipped a tooth on the sprocket??????
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1998 - Rough / Surging Engine
Throwing codes ... p0136, p1131, p1151 acts like it going to just stop then will take off, at a stop light it will sound like it has a large cam in it... It is a 1998 4.0 V6 automatic tranny.
View 1 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1987 - Engine Dies While Driving
Recently, today in my 87 Ranger suddenly the engine dies and all electronics in the cab fail.
I noticed under the hood that the fusible link connected to the battery and an orange and black wire was smoking. Tracing this line i found that it leads to the ignition switch, as well as some other places.
There is another fusible link and the junction between the yellow ignition wire and the orange and black wire from the battery. This fusible link also was failed.
I'm planning on replacing the fusible links tomorrow but in case that does not fix it, where to look next.
The problem only occurs when the key is in the ON position. I'm thinking maybe I could do some tests with a multimeter on the ignition switch but am not sure of the details of what I should test for.
Summary: Fusible Links C, and E burn out when the ignition is in the ON position.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1987 - Knocking Sound In Engine
I just bought a 87 Ford Ranger 2.9L v6 4x4. It has a tick to it. It doesn't stop, it doesn't increase with acceleration it stays the same. I sprayed some SeaFoam in it and It improved the performance a lot (More horsepower, better reaction to the pedal.) But it is still knocking. I have never tore apart an engine before or messed with lifters or anything. I'm not completely sure how to fix it. I know knocking is not a good thing either.
View 6 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 V6 Engine Knock Under Load
I have a '94 Mazda B3000 3.0L V6. The engine finally gave out at 244,000 miles. I had a used motor installed with approx. 110,000 miles on it. I now hear a knocking sound only when the engine is under load (in gear and accelerating). The knocking is not present while revving the engine while in park or neutral. The transmission was rebuilt last year about this time. I have described this problem to several respected mechanics and they don't know what it could be. What could cause this condition?
View 12 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Engine Build For More Power And Torque?
I am looking for any info on what to use for engine build for more power and torque in my race car.
View 14 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 4.0L Engine Knock - Tried Diff Additives But Nothing?
I too had this problem and tried different gas, gas additives, meticulously inspecting the cooling system to make sure overheating was impossible, found the jumper that allows me to back off timing 2 degrees, checked the computer for error codes, and cleaning the MAF sensor. Nothing really worked.
The solution is to decarbon the engine. It is all described in TSB 01-19-7, dated OCT 01. I did this and END of the problem. Pay attention to the part about not ingesting the PM-3 cleaner too fast to make sure you don't liquid lock your engine. The only important step they forgot was that you will need to replace spark plugs when you're done. You may also want to lay some newspaper under your tailpipe too, as the crud is gonna flow.
The TSB notes that the driver should have "periods of daily operation over 3500RPM to break carbon from cyl heads". They also note that you should NOT use mid-grade or super duper unleaded, as these increase the probability of carbon buildup.
This repair will cost about $30 if you do it yourself; if you can change a flat tire you can do this.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2003 V6 - Loud Shriek From Engine
Replaced serpentine belt and idler pulley today to stop this noise. Nothing changed but we eliminated anything near the belt. Tensioner had been replaced two years ago. Loud squeal starts slowly after starting then builds. It's constant and seems to come from the top of the engine where there are no turning parts. Both fans are running OK. Noise is synched with spinning of the engine. It's a 3.0 liter V6, vintage 2003. Appr. 63,000 mi. Any guesses?
View 7 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1989 - Engine Sluggish When Cold
I have an 89 Ranger 2.3l with 255,000 miles on original engine. The engine runs like brand new. I'm just curious as to why it's extremely sluggish when cold. Example, it was 3 degrees this morning and I literally couldn't get over 45 mph for 5-10 mins. Everyone was passing me. No knocks or other strange noises just doesn't have any power. Once warmed up its completely normal. Obviously my '01 4.0 Ranger doesn't do this so I was mainly interested in why? Do they use different metal materials, is engine wore out (obviously it is to an extent), or something else?
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