Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2011 - Installing Cold Air Intake?
Apr 18, 2016
I would like to install a cold air intake in my 2011 Ford Ranger. What brand should I go for? Volant or K&N?
View 4 RepliesI would like to install a cold air intake in my 2011 Ford Ranger. What brand should I go for? Volant or K&N?
View 4 RepliesInstalling sliding rear window in a 2011 ranger sport? Is this a DIY project or should it be left to the pros?
View 2 RepliesI am installing a used tranny in the ranger. According to the salvage yard the tranny fluid and filter was removed and fluid drained from the torque converter. How am I supposed to fill the torque converter?
View 1 RepliesI've tried every variation of installing the timing belt on my '91 2.3L Ranger, still not in. The belt seems as if it's too short but I've been told that it "barely" fits, no kidding! I've pulled the crank balancer/timing trigger off and put it back on three or four times already. What's the trick? Everytime I get it close I'm off a tooth or more. Just frustrated, tired of hitching a ride to work.
View 14 Replies'03 Ranger, 2.3L. Runs great except at idle. Code p0171. Replaced IAC, no luck.
Brake cleaner leak test definitely results in engine rpm change right around "butterfly rod" plug in front of intake manifold near no. 1 cyl. I'm pretty sure that's the problem - the plastic plug blew out. I watched a video showing repair, but it seems lacking.
I do not want to loosen up intake for access - I'd rather remove steering pump and gain some access to plug it up. There still isn't much access but, but eyeballing it, enough to plug, I think.
Three steering pump bolts came out easy. The fourth one is behind fluid line - extremely difficult to access, imo.
Somehow try to remove pump for access to intake hole, or bite the bullet and remove intake manifold for access?
I was working on my friend's '87 Ranger with 2.9 L V6, and a little bit of dirt fell into the intake manifold through the injector ports and intake ports. I should've cleaned the top of the engine with a shop vac first. Anyway, should I remove the intake manifold, or try to vacuum the bits out? It's pretty oily inside, and they might be stuck to the inside of it, so the vac might not do much. If I have to remove it, do I have to de-mesh the distributor gear to remove it, or does the distributor attach to a splined shaft? After looking at the diagrams, the answer was unclear.
View 1 RepliesSo i was thinking about buying a intake manifold for my truck and porting it and polish it. Would it be worth doing. I've decided that trying to port the heads will take up to much time and money for gaskets. Now the only reason why I am buying another stock one is so i can take my time and do it right.
View 14 RepliesIt doesn't look anything like the illistration in my Haynes book.Where are the bolts located and how many?
View 14 RepliesMy 2002 2.8 diesel ranger has recently been serviced replacing the turbo and a complete overhaul on the engine performed. I road tested it and it runs smooth... However, I am hearing a popping sound coming from the intake air filter. I was told it is because of the new turbo installed.
View 2 RepliesI am mixed up in which fasteners I have to tighten to stop my antifreeze leak. For this, I got some pictures. Do I have to tighten these bolts? Or these? Is this the upper intake intake manifold?
I am just really lost and want to tighten the right bolts and find the torquing specs of the bolts. In the first picture, we can clearly see there is a leak there of what must be antifreeze. The stuff I have been loosing slowly over months.
Just bought this truck and no check engine light was on, went to get it smogged so I could register it and it had the following fault codes: P1443, P0401, P1131, and P1132. The truck seems to run great in my opinion and even gets really good gas mileage. There is a whistle intermittently from the intake manifold area though that is at times pretty loud.
Smog tech told me these trucks are "notorious" for the check engine light going bad and that usually the entire instrument cluster has to be replaced in order to fix it. I'm a very experienced motorcycle /small engine tech but do not have much experience with car/truck engines and especially not with emissions control systems.
Again it is a 1996 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6, 4 wheel drive STX with 185,000 miles on it. Where to start or what might be the source(s) of these error codes?
Son has a 1987 ford ranger 2.9 engine 5 speed 4x4 truck. See anti freeze leaking @ the rear of the engine where the intake attaches to the block. How long to re & re the intake, ect. Is it just gaskets or what? Is it a big job?
View 9 RepliesI have a 94 ranger and all of a sudden it started sputtering, i can hear a vacuum leak behind the intake manifold found what appears to be a pcv valve not hooked up is that the way it's supposed to be?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Ranger XLT 4x4 with 38,000 miles. When I am at very low speeds (like 5 mph) and usually pulling into a parking spot, the ABS kicks on. I've heard it's the "hub" in my wheel but the dealer won't know which one to replace. Dealer said, take your hands off the wheel and see which way the truck pulls when the ABS is kicking on....well at 5 mph it doesn't pull. At $300 just for the part, I need to know which wheel it is!
Also a friend of mine had this happen to his Chevy Silverado and the replacement hub broke again so they just turned off the ABS....Is this OK to do if I don't want to fix this problem?
I understand there is not much adjustable on my 98 Ranger (2.5L) as far as idle speed and mixture. It runs rough when started cold. Is this a sign to replace spark plugs?
View 2 Replies98 ford Ranger 2.5L.
I have not heat from the vents, doesn't get warm at all. If I idle the enginer in 30 Degree weather it gets to almost the C.
Upper Radiator hose is hot, I have verified the thermostat is new and it opens at 192 degrees as it should. Replaced the Water Pump, Fan spins freely.
I have attempted to burp the system, it isn't kicking out anymore air from the lines that I can tell. I used a large funnel and filled it with Anti-freeze, it filled the radiator, burped the system and the reservoir filled to overflowing. All with the engine hot. (To be specific the funnel was always full of fluid so no air could get sucked backwards)
The heater core hose on the left when looking from the front of the vehicle does not get hot, the one on the right gets warm. I theorize that the heater core is clogged up somehow and that is why that left line doesn't get hot. There is no fluid in the cab of the truck from the core.
I have a 1996 Ford Ranger with 95k miles on it. Recently, my truck's automatic transmission has been slipping really bad. I'll be driving down my road and while going around a turn, the clutch feels like it randomly disengages, so when I press on the gas, it feels like I'm revving my truck in neutral, and then it will all of a sudden get back into gear, violently a lot of the time. However, once the truck is warmed up, the it runs perfectly and never slips. I've checked my oil multiple times and even changed the oil filter in the transmission. I am not sure if this has anything to do with it, but if I let my truck idle in park for a little bit, the RPMs will increase and if I shift in to reverse or drive while the RPMs are high, it'll do the same thing.
View 14 RepliesI have an 89 Ranger 2.3l with 255,000 miles on original engine. The engine runs like brand new. I'm just curious as to why it's extremely sluggish when cold. Example, it was 3 degrees this morning and I literally couldn't get over 45 mph for 5-10 mins. Everyone was passing me. No knocks or other strange noises just doesn't have any power. Once warmed up its completely normal. Obviously my '01 4.0 Ranger doesn't do this so I was mainly interested in why? Do they use different metal materials, is engine wore out (obviously it is to an extent), or something else?
View 2 RepliesWhenever I slow down for a car to turn or accelerate after a stop sign the ice cold air goes away and is replaced by warmer air but then it never turns back cold. Only when I kill the engine and start back up does it return. I just had the Freon refilled and there are no leaks.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2011 xlt extended cab with a 2.3l 4 cylinder. The truck is great... I put 120,000 miles on it in under a year.
But about a month ago the temperature gauge started malfunctioning. for what ever reason -- the truck is NOT over heating-- the gauge would increase past the "H" and then the temperature light would come on. Because the truck thinks it's overheating -- the engine goes into a "safe mode" and runs with no power. When i shut the motor off and turn it back on temperature gauge resets and the truck will run fine.
Then in another 50 or 100 miles it will do it again. Why is it doing this? I took it to the dealer here in Columbus, Ohio and the mechanic installed a new thermostat and a new "control modulator" (and a part -- not really sure what it is called) anyway, the truck is doing the same thing and the mechanic still does not know
Where the temp sensor for the rear view mirror is located. My truck is a 2011 Ranger with the 4.0 liter, AC, automatic and 4x4. I think it is somewhere by the headlights but not sure.
View 6 Replies