I recently bought a 2010 Ranger; it has been a fleet vehicle since it was brand new. The truck has some sort of warning beeper that goes off (installed by the fleet) every time the truck approaches 70 mph. How I can remove/disable this thing?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Ranger Edge 2dr.ext cab 3.0 manual transmission 6'bed.. I want to haul some patio pavers so how much weight can I carry?
View 14 RepliesWhen I make a left turn I have a horrible grinding noise. Only when I turn left and at any speed.
View 2 RepliesIn tight corners exits off the freeway, usually speed limit is around 20 - 25, my steering wheel is to hard to turn just like there is NO power steering at all. Feeling the same when turning around my neighborhood. Mine is C4 just bought it last Sunday June 3rd: is it defective?
View 9 RepliesSo I locked my keys in the truck and road side assistance pried the door with the hand pump airbag. After which the dome light won't turn off. The drivers door which they pried remains open about 2mm more then the passage light but if I lean on it the light still dosent shut off. This is a 2010 ford ranger. What I should try/check first?
View 2 RepliesI guess this feature is standard in newer cars, but how to turn off that annoying beeper for seat belts and keys in the ignition? Perhaps there's a wire that can be cut.
After all, I know enough to buckle my seat belt and feel uncomfortable and unsafe if I do not. I don't need to be beeped at to remind me. Plus, I know when I leave the keys in the ignition and exit the car.
How I can disable that annoying beep that occurs when driving over the speed limit? I've tried turning off the beep in the general settings that has not affected it.
View 5 RepliesNot only will it not go into gear, truck will not start unless clutch is to the floor, and in neutral (it's only possible place) if you pick the pedal up 1/4 inch off the floor the odometer starts spinning around 1 mile in 5 seconds.... if you lift it any more it kills the engine like you shut it off with the key.... odometer reads 99,004 miles now (the last 2 are mine) I bought this truck like this ....
View 3 RepliesMy son just purchased a 1996 Ford Ranger 2.3l 5 speed it is a nice little truck. But I have a question when you press in the clutch it acts like the choke has come on it idles way to high. When you come to a complete stop it is a few minutes before it goes back to its regular idle. Is it suppose to do that?
View 9 Replies1999 (built late 1998) Ranger 2.5 stick 2wd single cab. If I get much over 75 MPH the speedometer will reverse direction despite increasing speed. If I then let off the throttle completely, the speedo will jump right back up and indicate the correct speed. Continued operation without letting off the throttle to let the speedo recover will trip the ABS fault light, probably due to the erratic signal.
Disconnecting RABS module has no effect on symptoms. Speed sensor in the rear axle has been replaced already (by me) and the new unit ohm'd out good. Wiring between GEM and sensor checks out as well, good continuity (< 1 ohm) and no shorts to chassis ground. I wish I had an o'scope to take a look at the waveform, but I don't at the moment. It is on my future tool purchase list.
I have at 2007, 3 liter ranger. I just replaced the plug wires and coil pack. Ive checked and rechecked the wires, firing order is right,everything has spark but i now have a miss from a stop to 1500 rpm. what do i need to do to fix the issue.
View 4 RepliesI was bummed that my 2011 King ranch F450 would not show the actual speed limit for the road I was on unless I had a destination entered.
I was trying to find how to delete an address and I stumbled on to the fact that on the "info" screen (an "i" with a squire box around it) showed the speed limit for the road I was on.
It's not a convenient as having it displayed on the map screen, but at least it is there.
Was bored one day and was messing around with the settings on my '12 F150, and somehow programmed one of my keys to limit speed to 80 mph and make me put my seatbelt on or its shuts off radio...i just avoided using that key...just had a remote start put in and now both keys do it..how do i de-program this feature?
View 14 RepliesMy truck is a 2002 F-150 4.2l standard trans. I noticed it was lacking a little power one day and the next day a little more so,Then the third day I was heading out to the Doctor (50 miles away) I noticed the truck was slowly and gradually getting worse to where it was hard to even do the speed limit on the highway and the light started blinking so I headed straight to the nearest Advance and had them pull the codes and it gave us 172 bank 1 too rich and 174 bank 2 too lean I replaced the two top o2 sensors (advance sold me)same thing....... plugs, wires, coil, air and fuel filters are all new... checked the PCV hoses all look good, I'm a cancer patient and need my truck for Dr's and treatments and no money to randomly buy parts, I have seen people pointing to intake gaskets and isolator bolts... Does this motor have a track record of this being a common problem?
View 4 RepliesI recently bought a 96 ranger.I noticed the fan did not work but for high. I search the internet and found how to remove it and discovered a mouse nest(village) which basically took over the housing where the evaportor core,blower motor resides. I bought a chilton but cannot remove the housing around the core so I cleaned it the best I could(air compressor and vacuum and disinfectant)...
I had to buy a new blower motor and resistor. However, I cannot find the hose that attached to the blower motor?-mouse had chewed a hole in the one- I've looked and found serveral differents names for it but seems I cannot find it at my local parts store.
My question is- is this intake hose? vent hose? I'm guessing I will have to go to dealer or, if I know the name I can look it up in a salvage yard?
I have an 01 Ranger 4x4 that recently started to make a loud speed dependent noise from the drivers side front wheel, a quick jab to the right on the steering wheel and it stops, straiten out and it comes back...since I know my shocks are worn and have some cupping on the front tires my first thought was tire noise so I moved the back tire which is evenly worn to the front and no change, next I removed the tire and checked everything visually.
All seems ok, the brake does not seem to be dragging and there is no evidence of a cv problem, everything seems tight, so I'm guessing the problem is a bad wheel bearing? If I grab the tire at 12 and 6 there seems to be excessive movement from top to bottom, there should be none right? If memory serves any movement is indicative of bad wheel bearings? I guess I'm looking for some vindication before getting a new hub?
97 ranger 2.3l 5spd ... I keep getting p0500 code. the speedometer and odometer work fine. I understand they get they're reading from the OSS on the transmission. Now I also have the vss in the axle housing which I believe is what gives the ultimate speed reading to the pcm that way there is no need to ever adjust for axle ratio.
When using the torque app with my obd reader my OBD MPH guage does nothing until I get to about 55 then it bounces around randomly between 20 and 55 and once I hit 60 mph it reads correctly. I have tried 3 different vss sensors checked wire continuity from sensor to firewall examined the teeth/sprocket that gives the vss it's reading and it all checks out...
My questions are:
- What volts or ohms are supposed to come out of the plug end so I can test if the signal to the sensor is working
- Looking for wiring schematics for this sensor to pcm...my schematic only has the oss.
My speed control has not worked in years and I do not use them any more any way. I want to remove the control area on each side of the steering wheel, the covers are all messed up so I would like to make it look like it came without them. Can I do this and if so how?
View 1 RepliesMy 1989 Ford Ranger 2,9 V6 is acting up like crazy (engine hesitation) after kick down (it has an automatic transmission).
It can run like a charm for days and days and for the longest drives, but if I do a kick down it will start acting up (while both cruising or idling). This is making it almost impossible to drive as it looses speed. Only way to accelerate again is to do another kick down (then it will accelerate smoothly for as long as I keep my foot down), but that is really no solution as it will accelerate way past the speed limits and the mpg is horrible going up and down like that.
A couple of times this problem has seemed to solved itself after a while of engine hesitation but normally it would be acting up for the whole drive. On the other hand it will be okay again the next time I take it out for a drive.
Diagnostics: It has nothing to do with the temperature of the motor as this will happen after a kick down on both a cold or hot engine.
Simple solution so far: Avoid kick down!
What I have done so far: I have changed the spark plugs, the plug wires, the distributor rotor and the distributor cap with no luck.
MY 2001 Edge 4.0 5 speed auto has a noise while accelerating. It happens only when truck is first run and disappears after warming up after a few miles. It just turned 1500 miles. Can't figure out if it is from trans or possibly a speedo cable. It goes to the dealer next week.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1994 4x2 shortbed standard cab Ranger XLT. It has the 4.0 OHV engine, A4LD Automatic transmission, and 195,000 miles. Under average driving conditions, it operates fine. It shifts up through the gears much like it always has, although the shifts may not be quite as firm as they used to be.
If I'm at cruising speed and step harder on the accelerator, it downshifts, RPMs increase, and it upshifts rather poorly, & then I feel a thump, (maybe the torque converter locking up when it shouldn't be?), and I'm in the higher gear. This seems to happen when it upshifts from 3rd to 4th gears for sure, maybe from 2nd to 3rd, but I'm not sure.
Again, it only seems to happen when I attempt to speed up from cruising speed, not from a stand-still. The transmission fluid and filter have been changed at regular intervals, and the truck has never been abused. The fluid is red in color, doesn't smell burnt, and the level is correct. I don't want to get rid of this truck if I can avoid it. It has been super-reliable and mostly trouble-free for the 16 years I've owned it. What might be wrong with it?