Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2010 - Single Knock When Accelerating From A Stop Light
Jan 6, 2015
I have a 2010 Ford Ranger Sport. RWD with the 4.0L. Currently Sitting at 46,000 Miles.
Where I am located, it is very cold. Downwards of 5 Degrees F. I just started noticing a strange sound in my truck. When accelerating from a stop light I hear a single knock, and to my ear it sound as if it was coming from the rear. First thing I did was check the U-Joint, but there is zero play and it is very tight.
After driving quite a lot and unable to diagnose the problem, I part and got out of my truck, only to hear that same noise when I stepped out of the truck. (I am not fat 195b lol). So I sat back down and I heard it again. Did this a few times and consistently heard it. I got into the bed of my truck and started to jump around and got the same knock.
I shook the exhaust pipe to see if it was making the noise, but it wasn't, which makes sense considering while driving over bumps I could not hear anything. I am totally lost as to what this could be....I want to add that I CANNOT feel any difference driving. Feels great.
My ideas on problems are as follows;
-Spare tire
-bushing
-loose bold
-leaf spring (maybe a hanger)
-The cold creating noise like always.
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I got my b2500/ranger a couple of months ago and I've had very poor gas mileage. I replaced the air filter, changed the plugs, no luck. The truck has 169,000 miles. I haven't checked my exact gas mileage but from what i am seeing its horrible. I filled it up last night, not completely full but really close the full marker. In the morning i drove to school (7 miles) drove home, so 14 miles. Then i had to go back out by my school to pay back a friend. All in all about 28 miles. This cost me a little more than a quarter of a tank. The 2.5l has a 16 gallon fuel tank, so if my calculations are correct im getting about 8 miles to the gallon. I also took it the consideration that it was a half gallon from full.
And it wasn't just past below a quarter to full it was 3/4 of the way to a quarter from full. I know that i didn't test the mpgs "properly" but i think its close enough to draw a conclusion from. And keep in mind its not a 4.0, its a 2.5! Although i do think the engines size contributes to the mpgs because it takes ALOT to accelerate in this truck. At 2k rpm im barely accelerating from a stop light. And on the highway my engine stays a 2500 rpm doing 60-65. I am really hoping I can fix this because I don't want to drive around in a civic. Plus I need a truck for scrapping which is how I pay for gas as i am 17 and jobs are scarce. Also I know about cleaning the MAF butit has tamper proof torx on it which i do not have the tools to remove. I think it could also be the o2 sensors.
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2012 f250 SC xl 6.2 - Is it normal to hear a single clunk sound on occasion when accelerating from a stop sign? Doesn't happen all the time mind you and I don't ever remember hearing it in the past.
Now just today, while backing up my driveway, as soon as I started the reverse motion, I heard the same clunk. Sounds like metal to metal and comes from the rear of the truck.
Only 7000 miles on her and I treat her like a baby...anything I should be concerned with?
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It's an oldie, 1984, but so far still kicking. 6 cyl 2.8, carb. I took a little couple hundred mile trip a few weeks ago. Rolled back into town no problems.
A few days later I took a ride and the ranger would stall when approaching a stop sign or light. I would hold the pedal down a little to keep it running but it sounded like it wanted to die if I didn't feather the pedal to rev a bit.
I drove a few days later, as I was going down the neighborhood road(25 mph), it acted like it wanted to just die. I mashed the pedal and it had no effect. It didn't stall and eventually I could rev the engine to continue.
It continues to do the same, then will all of a sudden take off like there was never a problem. If/when it does stall again, it can be hard to start until it does start and off I go again like there was never a problem. Other times, it will idle.
Another note: Sometimes when I go to start the engine it will stutter, intermittently turnover. It has done the same thing while actually driving, kind of a jerking deal.
Fuel filter, fuel pump, electrical? I'm going to first check/replace the fuel filter tomorrow.
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I have a '94 Mazda B3000 3.0L V6. The engine finally gave out at 244,000 miles. I had a used motor installed with approx. 110,000 miles on it. I now hear a knocking sound only when the engine is under load (in gear and accelerating). The knocking is not present while revving the engine while in park or neutral. The transmission was rebuilt last year about this time. I have described this problem to several respected mechanics and they don't know what it could be. What could cause this condition?
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I too had this problem and tried different gas, gas additives, meticulously inspecting the cooling system to make sure overheating was impossible, found the jumper that allows me to back off timing 2 degrees, checked the computer for error codes, and cleaning the MAF sensor. Nothing really worked.
The solution is to decarbon the engine. It is all described in TSB 01-19-7, dated OCT 01. I did this and END of the problem. Pay attention to the part about not ingesting the PM-3 cleaner too fast to make sure you don't liquid lock your engine. The only important step they forgot was that you will need to replace spark plugs when you're done. You may also want to lay some newspaper under your tailpipe too, as the crud is gonna flow.
The TSB notes that the driver should have "periods of daily operation over 3500RPM to break carbon from cyl heads". They also note that you should NOT use mid-grade or super duper unleaded, as these increase the probability of carbon buildup.
This repair will cost about $30 if you do it yourself; if you can change a flat tire you can do this.
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I recently replaced the plugs & wires on my '97 3.0L XLT automatic, and now I'm hearing some pre-ignition (spark knock). Only happens under light load, as in climbing a slight grade on the highway. No CEL, no codes on my code reader. Was not happening before I did the work.
The plugs & wires I removed were the factory originals (AWSF32P & PG, 3 of each), truck only has ~85,000KM (~50,000 Miles) on it. Well maintained, & only used occasionally. The only mod from stock are the wheels & tires, I'm running 215/70 R15 instead of the stock 225/70 R14, the difference in the tire circumference is minimal.
The gap on the old plugs was just over .050", no evidence of any fouling or other problems. The new plugs are Autolite XP104 Iridium, which is what the Autolite catalog calls for. Plug gap was checked & set to .044", midway in the range called for by Ford (.042-.046).
I realize that the narrower gap on the new plugs will cause a slight advance in timing, and I have done a computer reset/relearn as per Paw Paw's instructions. I'm stumped.
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Specs: 2003 Ranger Edge / 3.0 V6 / 5-speed 4WD / 238,000 miles
Yesterday my truck was in the shop for repair. Intake gasket, Transmission fluid change, all heater hoses, thermostat, serp belt and coolant flush. When I picked it up from the shop, which was after closing, I noticed a knocking on start up. From past experience on a different truck, it sounds like a cam that isn't oiling. After a few minutes the knock goes away. I drove for a few miles, turned off the engine and started it back up and no knock this time. This morning I started it, knock was back but went away after a few minutes. Oil was changed about 1500 miles ago. Running pennzoil 5/20 with a K&N filter. Up until yesterday the engine has been completely quiet. Was wonder if something may have clogged the filter or the drain back valve.
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I've got a '94 Ranger with the 4.0L OHV and an Automatic trans. When I start, hot or cold, it has quick lifter knock for only a fraction of a second. This same knock comes back if I hold the throttle over 3K with NO LOAD on the engine. With any load, I cannot make it knock. With no load, though, it becomes very loud, especially with more RPMs. at idle and slightly above, there is a slight tick that can only be heard with the bonnet up, and then it is only slightly noticeable. I think that this tick is unrelated, but I figured I should share that information. For oil, I run Pennzoil high mileage 10W-30, changed 3000 miles religiously. Purolator filter, PL30001. I can understand the startup knock, but I can't see why it seems to produce the same knock at high RPMs under NO load.
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03, 2.3 duratec, 163k, new timing chain, plugs (AP104), wires and intake. cleaned MAF, air filter, and ran two cans of sea foam through the intake and its still pinging. its driving me up the wall. truck runs perfect but seems to idle slightly higher and take longer to come down to idle after I got the timing chain and plugs/wires done. I've sprayed starting fluid around on top of the engine looking for vacuum leaks but found nothing. What should I try next?
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I purchased a ES300h in March 2013. Starting end of September I noticed a rattle (pebbles in a tin can tumbling sound) when I went up a slight grade, accelerating from a stop, or accelerating after a brief coasting on the freeway. The first time at the dealer they said stop using Costco gas and use Top Tier. I used Shell and Chevron and there was a 80% improvement but the nuisance still continued, some days more and some days less, meaning when it rained it poured.
On the third visit to the dealer, with two specialists on a ride along of course it does not make that noise, but left it there for them to find the continued problem and they conceded it is engine knock to which there is nothing out of specs with the engine AND say that this is normal. I have never had a car do this, maybe specific to hybrids? The service advisor goes on to tell me that they filled my tank with 91 octane to stop the knock, BUT, the manual says use 87!!!
Some say this can lead to engine damage, some say only blown gasket, the dealer says no problem! A friend of mine has the same car and has no issues.
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Sometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start,the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad....
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So I locked my keys in the truck and road side assistance pried the door with the hand pump airbag. After which the dome light won't turn off. The drivers door which they pried remains open about 2mm more then the passage light but if I lean on it the light still dosent shut off. This is a 2010 ford ranger. What I should try/check first?
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I have a 1987 Ranger 2wd, 2.9, 5sp that feels like it is cutting out when accelerating. The only code in the computer (KOEO) is 67, which according to the manual is neutral drive switch (NDS) circuit open. What to look for? Can the neutral drive switch be the problem?
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I have a 2002 ford ranger with the 2.3l and 5 speed.
Long story short, previous owner adjusted the time because he accidentally got the motor out of time (he thought it had the belt, not the chain). So he had to take the intake, fuel rails, fan, throttle body, etc. Off to get to the valve cover to re-time it with the timing kit. After it was put back together, it ran awful. I bought it, checked the time with the timing light and it was good. I replaced the spark plugs, and then realized he had forgotten to plug the camshaft positioning sensor back in. So I did, and that did the trick. From start to finish, the truck had those issues for about a year before I got it so it sat up for a little while. I have had it for 2 weeks now.
Now the problem...it idled great. But when I took it out for the test run, 1st gear shifted great, but at about 1700-2000 rpm (depending on the gear), it would almost seem to loose power, and then it would pick back up around 2400-2700 rpm like nothing had happened. You can sort of tell in 2Nd gear, but it is very noticeable in 3rd, 4th, and 5th. If i accelerate pretty slow, it doesn't happen. It only if i try to accelerate at a normal rate or if i am trying to get onto the interstate or pass someone. I ran some seafoam in it thinking maybe it just got gunked up from sitting for so long, but that only through an engine code saying my bank 3 was misfiring.
So I replaced the spark plugs (again), wires, and then the coil pack (the coil pack is what fixed it) and that got the code to go away and for it to stop missing, but the problem still was the same. It would take off great, and then it would seem to almost pause, and then pick power back up again. It wasnt feeling like it isn't getting enough fuel, it just wouldn't hardly pick up speed. It almost feels like I am riding a 2 stroke dirt bike. The power band is ehat should be normal on the truck, and before I hit the power band is how it feels when the truck has its little pausing episode. It's that noticeable to me.
So I thought maybe the fuel filter or sensors need cleaned/replaced..so yesterday I replaced the fuel filter and cleaned every sensor around the top of the engine, including the MAF sensor and made sure all bolts were tight and gaskets were good. I don't see and disconnected vacuum lines and none of them looked dry rotted. The only place air can get in that I see is the air filter box. The screws that hold the top half of the (stock) filter box are missing, so it is not sealed.
But what to check next. My only other thoughts are the catalytic converter (which it doesn't act like it's stopped up) or the fuel pump pressure being off. Also, it does sound like a lifter ticking in the motor, but previous owner said he thinks it did that before all these problems.
Also, right before I bought it, it sounded like the ujoint was squeaking (it rarely does it now) and now it has a crackling sound when accelerating at low-mid rpms coming from the middle or the back of the truck. It sounds similar to when you turn your hot vehicle off and the exhaust makes crackling noises sometimes.
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I have a 2001 ranger 2wd with a 2.3. It has a miss when acceleration. There is no check engine light. I have changed: fuel filter. Plugs, wires, crank position. Sensor, cleaned mass air flow sensor. Ran 2 bottles of injector cleaner in it. Still missing???? It runs and idles great. Just has a miss in the lower RPM's 1000-2000 then goes away. I really don't wanna take it to a shop. What do you all think??
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1987 ranger 2.9l... My truck had no power while accelerating. We'll I changed fuel pump and filter. And still no power. I bought a computer and it tells me the map sensor is not at normal vaccum levels. The ego sensor is reading always rich. Egr valve not opening. Knock sensor was was going crazy. And computer couldn't raise engine speed above normal idle. Could all this be because of one sensor or should I just change it all.
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I own a 2010 Jeep Liberty and this is my first RWD vehicle (when set in the normal 2WD mode of course). I notice that whenever I accelerate from a stop, on even a slightly wet road, the rear wheels spin and I get the traction light on my dashboard. I then need to take my foot of the gas and accelerate ohhhh soooo slowly. I've never had this kind of wheel spin on my previous AWD or FWD vehicles. Is this a known "feature" or RWD vehicles? Or maybe my one year old tires are inadequate? With my Liberty I could try switching to 4WD LOCK mode before attempting the acceleration to see if this works.
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I have a 2002 4.0 with the 5R55E transmission. My problem is while driving. It seems to have developed in the last few weeks.
The truck has a whirring noise, which changes as it shifts, which leads me to believe its tranny related. The noise isn't like a grinding.
Most noticeable when it downshifts from 2-1, but I've heard it when accelerating too.
I've investigated u-joints, and they are tight. My tranny fluid is not a dark red, and doesn't smell terrible. No shifting issues, except for the infamous 1-2 pause.
I will be doing a test on jack stands this weekend to listen outside the truck.
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I just bought this truck last week. It has 55k on it, so I'm guessing it sat a lot. It seems to run great, but today on my drive to work it started having an intermittent bogging down when accelerating. It didn't seem to matter if I was accelerating soft or harder, or what rpm I'm at. It also did it when it was cold pulling off of my street and it did it once or twice after 15-20 minutes of driving. It just feels like I let off the gas for a moment, I can watch the tach drop about 500 rpm and then just as quick it picks right back up and is fine for a bit. I don't have any check engine light.
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Yesterday I was driving around some back roads and I started to hear a ticking when I accelerated when I left my foot off the gas pedal it went away. But when i put my foot on the gas again it comes back. You really cant realize it when you have the radio on... Ive been experiencing rough idling when I come to fast stops and quickly speed up again.
The ticking seems to only happen after like 20 minutes of driving. Most of my trips are only 10 minutes, to either school or to work so it really doesn't happen very often... Although college will start in a few months (30 minute drive) so I wanna get this fixed before something major happen.
Also on a side note, when going up hills it feels like it has delayed shifting. I really don't want to put in anymore money into this truck...already put $ into it the first year of owning it. I guess the good thing is that I got it keeping my fingers crossed nothing is wrong with the transmission or motor, what is wrong?
*I have a 1995 v6 4.0 XLT ranger with 160,000 miles
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