Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2008 - Gas Pump Clicking Off Randomly?
Jul 26, 2017
In my 08 Ranger, when I'm filling up with gas, and I flip the lever on the handle of the pump so that it stays on, and then gently let the nozzle rest, in all my older cars it would stay on until the tank was full, and then just click off. But in the Ranger, it clicks off randomly, with nothing to do with the amount in the tank. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the angle of the nozzle, because when I hold the nozzle lightly from where the hose enters the nozzle, so that the spigot it at a different angle, it doesn't click off.
Is this a design flaw? (because it's not like any other car out there in that respect) and can I do anything about it?
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I got a 1997 Ford Ranger 2.5L that randomly jerks on the highway and I can't figure out what the problem is. This morning I had a 3 hour drive and it was fine on the first hour and then the last 2 hours it will randomly jerk on the highway and then be find for a little bit and then do it again. I don't know what the issue is? I did scan my car this morning and did have two code P0141 and P0113 not sure if these would have anything to do with it or not. Also my speedometer is hit or miss when it works, other than that everything else is fine on the car no check engine light or anything like that.
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Ive got a '94 ranger with the 8 plugs and more often than not while driving and sometimes when it first starts, the cel comes on and immediately I notice a lil rough running and lack of power. Also my milage has dropped since this has started. Plugs, wires, o2 sensors, not to familiar with my gas saver. I love it cause I can just get in it and go. With twice the fuel milage as my bi truck!
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I have just inherited my recently deceased father's 1992 Ranger with the 2.3 liter engine. He was a Ford Mechanic but got to ill to worry about fixing the Ranger. So, let me begin, the engine dies randomly, (at idle or in gear driving doesn't matter what gear or speed), turning key to off and then to on will allow vehicle to restart every time. No "Check Engine" light has ever lit, I do have an "Antilock" light that comes and goes. The engine codes I keep getting are: 10, 218 and 222.
Code 10 is a computer check code,
Code 218 is "Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal/left side, and
Code 222 is "Distributorless Ignition System - Loss of right side ignition diagnostic monitor (IDM) signal.
These codes were from my Innova reader. I have read where other similar problems were fixed with a new Crankshaft Position Sensor, replaced mine, no change. Another symptom I just noticed is my temp gauge stays near the cool end when it should be higher.
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I have a '98 Ranger 4.0L SuperCab 4x4 Automatic
The other day i was driving, around 40 MPH and suddenly the truck felt like I hit rumble strips on the highway, I hit the brakes and when the truck got down to about 10-15 MPH, it went away. It didn't feel like an out of balance tire or anything like that. It felt exactly like I hit rumble strips. It was a strong, high frequency vibration. I then continued on my way, and it was fine for a little while, still doing 40 mph, then suddenly out of nowhere the same vibration came back. Once again, I slowed back down, it went away and stayed gone even when I sped back up.
Both front hub bearings are less than a year old, and a quick check of the driveshaft seemed to indicate the u-joints are still tight. Front diff/driveshaft turns freely and smoothly and the front hubs are not locked.
'm going to try and jack the truck up and check everything thoroughly, but I'm really at a loss here, as I've never experienced anything like this before in any vehicle. Some reading suggests that it might be transmission related to the 5R55, but I'm really unsure.
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2003 Ranger (4.0 L-2wd)...
Codes - random misfire and cylinder banks 1, 2, 3, reads out lean fuel
Will be checking out injectors and rail pressure, however, trouble shooting in general for this issue.
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1999 Ranger 4.0. I have an issue with my ranger. Sometimes the truck runs awesome.While driving along the truck will miss and sputter and buck, when this happens, I almost can't maintain my speed. Sometimes when this happens if I put the truck in neutral and shut it off and restart it. The problem will temporarily go away. Occasionally it will go away on its own. When it goes away on its own it's like someone flipped a switch and all power is returned and running smooth. When the truck is at idle it depends on the mood of the truck, sometimes it's fine and other times it wants to die. I got to make this truck last awhile longer.
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The fuse and relay have been tested. There actually is 5 volts at the fuel pump. The truck was running OK when the clutch went out. It wouldn't start after the clutch was replaced. The inertia switch is OK. I don't know where to look now....
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Anyway just got a new fuel pump put in my 99 3.0 Ranger and now after it's warmed up from a few miles it starts to choke and almost die. No CEL comes on and I just put new Motorcraft plugs in and still the same thing. I read something about maybe cleaning EGR.?
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This is probably a dumb question but what is going on here:
YouTube.....
This is with the AC running. That wheel spin and loud click (it's a lot louder in person) is starting to annoying me. When I am sitting in traffic or at lights and I have the AC running the noise is very noticible in the cab. If the AC is off the idle settles down and the click goes away. So what causes this - AC compressor going out? It needs lube? Freon?
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I have a 96 ranger with the l4. Right before I bought my newish truck last December, it's started miss firing and running really bad. I replaced the spark plug wires, most of the spark plugs, and both coil packs. Didn't work at all. Then I bought my new truck and parked. Fast forward to now. Fired it up, ran REALLY bad. We changed the wiring order from the 96 order to the 99 order.
But the truck idles from 500rpm (barely running) and randomly jumps up to 2-3000rpm and then back down. Driving it has NO power, rev it and it stays at 2-3000 for quite awhile. Sometimes it randomly dies. REALLY need to get it running quick and cheap. Getting ready to sell my daily driver to find something else and I need something to drive while I hunt for another truck.
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2000 Ranger 2wd 3.0 ... I bought my truck last summer for $1k from my neighbor, it has hit a deer so the grill is busted,front drivers fender bent up and bumper is bent all to heck. The old girl is rock solid reliable though and gets decent mileage with cruise heat and ac so I'm happy.
Anyways on to the point, I am having two big issues with it, the check engine light randomly comes on and causes it lose power sometimes at others you don't notice it. I have not been able to get codes read because it goes off every single time I go to someplace with a scanner. The light will usually go off if you floor it for a long stretch maf maybe?
The other issue is the transmission, I don't know for sure which tranny it is but the overdrive button does not work at all even though the fuses are good and when I drive down the highway second gear you have to let off for it to shift sometimes ( I've been leaning towards the valve body gasket for that) and lately it has started a horrible vibration kicking out of overdrive or just downshifting on hills etc.?
I forgot to mention it has 255k miles on it and I don't know the history besides the balljoint I replaced this week and radiator when I bought it.
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1987, 2.9 ... I got all my wiring repaired and replaced both the intank pump and the high pressure pump, for a few days it would fire right up as soon as you hit the key but it had a miss (the pumps shut off after a second or two with the key on "RUN"). I tore the throttle body off and cleaned all the carbon out of it, when I put the throttle body back on I noticed that the engine to body ground was loose so I ran a new piece of 4ga from the intake manifold bolt to one of the master cylinder bolts.
After I did this I went to start the truck and no go, the fuel pump turns on with the key but then it wont shut back off until you turn the key off. if you try and start the truck it will crank but wont fire, after about a half hour of cycling the key and cranking it will start to put a little bit then a few tries later it will start but sounds rough when it first fires. I thought it may be a stuck injector so I ran some cleaner through the Schrader valve on the rail. Still have nothing, both pumps do run but still don't shut off after a few seconds like they should and now it wont even try to start.
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My '94 4.0L XLT has hesitated to start a couple times lately. Then, after sitting for a week while we were on vacation, the truck would not start at all today.
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I read about the fuel pump relay, so since I am not made of money, I decided to change that first ($16 vs. $100). After installing the new relay, the truck started! I put the old relay in the box and tossed it into the glove box.
After lunch, and some thought, i decided I wanted to put the old relay back in and see what happened. Guess what! It started with the old relay as well! I also noticed that the humming/buzzing sound the fuel pump makes when the switch is turned on was different with the new relay vs the old one. I put the new relay back in, but now I am unsure where my real problem lies. Intermittent relay, or fuel pump on its way out??
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I can't get power to the fuel pump on my 91 ranger 3.0 5 speed. I just bought the truck and replaced all the relays checked all the fuses under the dash and under the hood. If I jump the relay it comes on and wont go off.
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Plan on changing my water pump in the next day or two. Truck is a 2000 Ranger, 2.5L with 185,000+ miles. Just wondering if there are any hints/gotcha's that may not be in the manual.
Any advice on bleeding the coolant after I get it back together?
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I have a 1984 Ford Ranger 4x4 with 2.8L V6, carburetor number E37E-AEA. The accelerator pump diaphragm is perforated.
Small holes are visible when I hold it up to a light. Is this part available anywhere? Is it included in these carb repair kits that I see on a lot of auto parts sites? The sites don't list the contents of their "kits."
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My 1995 ford ranger with a 3.0 will not start. It acted like the fuel pump was going out so I replaced it. I also replaced cmp sensor and the camshaft synchronizer due to old cmp sensor broke and messed up the synchronizer. My truck is getting fuel and spark but still will not start. Where do i go next?
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i have a 2001 ranger 4x4 the problem is sometimes it will switch into 4 wheel drive and sometimes it wont just hear clicking noise ,i'm preety sure it doenst have a vaccum.
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Bought an 01 Ranger 4x4. The 4wd doesn't work, no clicking in kick panel, lights etc. got a used unit and plugged it in, blew my brake switch fuse (#9 on side dash) I failed to disconnect the negative ground ( oops) the original part # in the truck is
1L547H417AC
Do I need to get the exact same part number on a donor vehicle? I can get a CM for 25.00 at a local pick n pull, they have a lot or explorers there. Also will this solve my fuse issue? The truck sat for a few months and the battery died before I owned it.
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Ok I've got this 98 Ranger with the 2.5L and the 4r44e automatic. The engine is used and has about 100,000 miles now and is it a good state of tune - so I think. The transmission was a remanufactured I bought a few years ago that was built with the shift improver kit, Kevlar bands, extra planetaries, 4wd pan, and external cooler. It's now got 92,000 miles on it and it's been serviced every 30,000 with a fresh 4wd filter and Mercon V fluid. It's outlasted the last 3 transmission I've had in my Ranger. I've got 315,000 miles on the body. For awhile it was randomly losing power while driving like it wouldn't shift, almost like it dropped a couple cylinders, then as you kept your foot on the gas it would recover and rev up and shift.
Then sometimes randomly at stoplights it would shake at a stop and have no power at take off until it hits 30-40 mph. Sounds like a converter, is what I thought. But now it's doing it more often but not the shaking at stoplights as much as randomly losing power while driving normal speeds. Last night I drove it about 50 miles after doing a fresh filter and fluid change and this time it did it so much it threw a code up P1131. Even though that's a O2 sensor code, could it be hidden by a transmission valve body problem? One transmission shop said it could be a valve hanging up just by me describing it to him. Could this be ignition or fuel related or is it all tied in with the transmission problem, if it is even a transmission problem?
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