I have a 2008 Ranger Sport 4x4. I noticed yesterday that when I stepped on the brake pedal it felt like nothing was there until I step a little harder then it was like full brake application. The truck only has 63000 on it. Then every once in awhile it would be normal ie very light brake application and slows like it should. Then back to same issue... Any thoughts about this??
View 8 RepliesI just finished replacing pads, calipers, rotors, wheel cylinders & brake drum hardware on my truck along with flushing the brake fluid. The brakes work but the pedal goes almost to the floor. While bleeding them some air did come out as expected. But a couple times the master cylinder reservoir got very low on fluid. The workshop manual talks about bleeding the MC but are special fittings needed for that?
View 10 RepliesI have a 1995 Ford Ranger 4 cyl w/ hydraulic clutch, about 95k miles, and an intermittent problem. Normally, my clutch works fine, but a few times a year, normally during the summer, and normally only after driving for a half hour or more, it starts to act up. First, the pedal starts to feel a little spongy. Then, I'll depress the clutch, and when I release it, the peddle comes up, but the clutch does not engage; a few seconds later, the clutch engages fully instantaneously, which usually stalls the engine if I am stopped.
Then, when I try to reengage the clutch so that I can restart the engine, the clutch is very stiff, and I have to pump it a few times, at which time it will depress easily, and then I am usually back to the original problem where the peddle comes up but the clutch does not engage. When I finally make it home and the truck sits for awhile, the clutch then works fine again. I think it is the orig clutch. I have talked to several mechanics about this problem (including the Ford garage!), and they are mystified. One mechanic thinks that it is a problem with the master and slave cylinder combo, and can replace them.
1993 Ranger XLT 4.0 AT. Initially replaced ECM for other problems and then noticed Cruise w/n disengage when brake depressed unless pedal is pushed several times and with more pressure. Put in another ECM and have same problem. Have replaced the brake switch and lights come on as they should. When pedal is pushed the vacuum dump valve on the pedal will dump the vacuum to the servo but when you release the brake pedal the cruise control kicks back in and speeds truck back to set speed.
So this tells me that the dump valve is only a fail-safe feature for when pedal is depressed and does not actually deactivate the servo. Everything else with the cruise works fine: On/Off switch, Set/Accelerate, Resume, Coast. How to proceed next? Like where to find speed control module and how to test it? How to check servo to see if it is getting or dropping voltage that will electrically disengage it, etc? Don't want just throw parts at it. The new ECU's that I used came from ECU Exchange in Florida and there still remains the possibility that they are still the problem.
I have a 2010 Ford ranger sport 4x4, manual, and when backing up at a decent speed, then press the brake to slow up then depress the clutch, the brake pedal pulsates and it feels like something is grinding. It has happened in first once, but I can make it happen in reverse anytime...
View 1 Repliesacts like abs sensors could be bad. but the brake pedal goes almost to the floor, after it does it's pulsating. But the abs light does not come on. I already changed brake booster, no change!
View 5 RepliesSo, a few day i bought an 84 Ranger and even since have not been able to figure out what the hell is wrong with the brakes. I know it's not the brake booster for starters. Because, i went to Auto Zone and picked up a new one and when i took the old one off (before i had put the new one on as well) i tried to see if the brake pedal would now move freely and it won't. It is still very stiff and squeaks when you push it down. i then to get it to return have to pull it up with my foot... What it might be? the WD-40 failed here as well.
View 3 RepliesWhat is the likely culprit? No other electrical issues, brake light quit working when brake is depressed, all other lights work including blinkers/running/head. Was going to break out a wiring diagram....
View 7 RepliesI have a 1990 4x4 ford Ranger, the little truck was purchased in early 2008 as a work truck but has ended up becoming my main vehicle, it has been a good truck for the most part but know I am having some brake issues, well have been having for some time but they seem to come and go. Usually it happens when I have to hit the brakes hard, the rear brakes lock up, I replaced the master cylinder months ago and thought that fixed it, then a month later it happened again. The last time it happened was friday, the time before that was in march 09'.
I have searched this online and found numerous try this but the original poster never comes back to say if the problem is fixed or what fixed it. My ABS light DOES NOT come on when this happens, it does function properly, it illuminates when the key is turned on then goes off. My parking brake no longer works either but I think that is from me "driving thru" the locked up rear brakes. I plan on replacign both drums and shoes within the next week but would like an option to repair the locking up issue.
I replaced all the brake pads on all 4 wheels. Pretty standard procedure. I now have a very spongy brake pedal. It stops but the pedal will be almost to the floor. I did not break any of the lines open during the procedure just used c-clamp to spread the calipers. No ABS light. Have a Snap-On power bleeder and bled the system several times with no change. Checked the power steering fluid level and inspected entire system for leaks.
2002 F-550 V10
My dad drives an '06 Sonata. And he recently broke a brake line and had gotten it fixed. His current problem is that his brake pedal hasn't returned after getting the line fixed. What can he do to fix that? The pedal is really low and is spongy. And his ABS and ESC lights are also on.
View 4 RepliesI have a question about the bleeding the brake? When I washed my E, I usually spray the wheel and the brake part. I don't know it is a good idea or not. Recently, I felt like I have to step further on the brake pedal to apply the brake.
The force is there and Brake assist is still in effect if I step fast enough. I just felt like the brake pedal is spongy. My E is on 36k right now. Do you think wash the wheel often will cause the problem to brake line?
I have confirmed that my Gf's Elantra is easy and ease to brake than mine. At the mean time, her brake fluid is darker than mine. My brake fluid is full and clear. Maybe I should not wash the wheel more often. Or maybe I get OCD too much?
I noticed last week that my brake pedal seemed more spongy than usual. The next day the pedal would go down about half way to the floor before I had pressure. And then the next day the pedal would go straight to the floor. Pedal comes back up once released. I still have brakes pressure about an inch before the pedal bottoms out. Its been like this a couple days now. The vaccum pump works fine. I'm gunna try bleeding the brakes on it tomorrow.
View 5 RepliesI recently bought a 2006 Ranger with supposedly 110000 miles... I don't think I made a good deal... because I found the stabilizer end link in terrible shape which seems suspicious for this mileage in my personal opinion!? But this isn't the reason I am posting today... I have a serious breaking issue and I couldn't find explanation yet.
My ABS Light is on. When I slowly brake at low speed and when the brake is almost completely depressed... I hear a low humming sound, and the brake pedal seems to momentarily drop back just slightly. This also happens when I'm going down hill and breaking. For the most part, the car breaks, and it's only every 8th or 10th time braking that I experience this issue.
My guess is this is linked to the ABS... but I can't afford expensive service and need to resolve this on my own.
I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 replaced calipers, master cylinder, and ABS Pump/Modulator. Bled all four calipers. Brake pedal spongy and has very little pressure and travels all the way to the floor. What am I missing here?
View 8 RepliesI have replaced booster, master cylinder, all four callipers, and bled the brake system a number of times on my 2000 F-150 4x4. and still the pedal is wicked spongy, is there some other problem?
View 6 RepliesDrove the lady's car out on some errands today and ran into a problem on our drive home. Car was pinging really bad (low rpms in 1st and second) and car seemed as if it couldn't get out of its own way. Was driving for some time on the freeway (after a blistering 0-60 time of 20 seconds ), and noticed that the brake pedal was really spongy (felt like a mk1 when you try to brake with the car off). Found that the e-brake handle was up (negligibly up (perhaps 1mm raised)). Didn't have power brakes at all and had to use a lot of engine braking to slow the car off of the freeway.
Rear of the car smells like copper (wet pennies) and found that the brake reservoir is cracked (but fluid still at max level). Also noticed that as of late, when the car is at a stop (sometimes in gear, and sometimes in neutral) the car will rock/bump a little almost as if someone were giving it a bumper kiss with their car.
My Gen I Prius is screeching at me with the BRAKE and ABS lights on, and I hear the electrically actuated pump pulsing as it tries to get pressure into the system. The pedal is spongy and will go all the way down, with the right amount of exerted pressure from my foot.
View 6 RepliesAfter my local brake shop changed the front rotors and brake pads on my 99 grand cherokee the brake pedal is spongy and long, almost reaching the floor. They don't know why. Apparently they had a problem with fitting the new pads. I took it to the jeep dealer and they told me the master brake cylinder was leaking and needed to be replaced. many hundreds of dollars later the brakes are still spongy and long and does not correct with repeated pumping. The dealer was also stumped and I complained that nothing changed with the new master cylinder. what might be the problem?
View 4 Replies2009 XRS ABS brakes .... I changed all four brake pads and flushed out most of the old brake fluid. Bled all four sides. But now while I am in idle (like waiting for a light to turn) my brake pedal is spongy and is making a hissing sound. All was good before I did this job.
View 3 RepliesI started to feel the brakes get spongy. So I pulled the master cylinder forward and turned the 7mm about a half turn. Also noticed the brake fluid level low. I topped it off. Drove down a steep hill....red dash brake light comes on.....plow truck stopped at the base of hill with on coming car. Used emergency brake.
The down side is that I don't have a dry area to pump and check where the leak is. The up side is I have a 2nd car to drive (yaris).....the truck only has 45k miles on it. Where is that area that is prone to leakage on these trucks....... 2004 heritage 4.2 v6 with stick shift.... only 45k miles ....