I have 2008 mazda B2300 pickup with P1633 fault code. Is this a mazda code (battery overcharge) or ford code (KAM voltage low) since it's a re-badged ranger? Alternator output measured at battery is 14.4 vdc.
View 8 RepliesMy check engine light came on the other morning after a rain storm. I took it to Auto Zone and they put their reader on it and come up with P1633 code. (Keep alive memory (KAM) voltage low).
The next morning the light was off. Couple days later it rained again and the engine light came back. Took it back to Auto Zone and checked it again to make sure it was the same code.
Seems like something might be getting wet unless its just a coincidence that it was raining each time the light came on.
I have a 1997 Mazda B2300 with 175,000 miles that has an intermittent check engine light. When I check the code it is always P0420. If I leave it alone long enough the light usually goes out. The truck had the catalytic converter replaced about 5 years and 60,000 miles ago. I also had the muffler replaced in October, but I was getting this code prior to the muffler replacement. I recently bought a scanner that can monitor the fuel trim data and noticed that the long term fuel trim is generally between +16 and 18%. I replaced both oxygen sensors last week and cleaned the MAF sensor, but today I got the CEL again. The LTFT is also still the same as it was before I replaced the O2 sensors. My truck doesn't use any noticeable amount of coolant or oil and I'm not really sure where to start.
View 8 RepliesOk I have 94 B2300 and about every 3rd or 4th start the ECU relay will not come on / energize which the the fuel pump relay doesn't come on either to prime the fuel system... so no start! It's very intermittent and sometimes the only way I can get the truck started is by pulling out the ECU relay and plugging it back in even sometimes that doesn't work too. Is it a bad relay or bad base the relay plugs into or is the ECU/computer going bad or is there wiring messed up in my ignition switch? Is there a known problem like this with these trucks?
View 7 RepliesTook my 96 B2300 2WD SE (190k) to lunch. When I went to start it back up afterwards, the key turned but no starter engaged. All the dash lights came on, and now stay on. With the key in, I can turn the ignition freely...no clicking to different positions.
It springs a little when I turn it all the way, but still no starter. When I remove the key, the dash lights stay on, etc. So, since it was on, we were able to push-start it. I've parked it on a hill for now, and will disconnect the battery when I get it home.
Mazda B2300 2.3L 1995 model... About a week ago I ran my B2300 out of gas (or so I was convinced I was out of gas) because the engine quit running. After adding gas was unable to start it back up. It turns over but doesn't start.
Here's what we did to try and fix it:
1.) Replaced Fuel Filter
2.) Check the fuel pressure, and it was at 35 psi when the key was on
3.) Replaced all 8 spark plugs (4 cylinder truck btw)
4.) Checked spark of all 8 coil pack slots and 1st and 3rd slots (exhaust side) were not sparking. After replacing coil pack we received spark but truck still didn't start.
We're speculating on the possibility of it being the PCM (ECC).
Any known problems with '94 Ranger/B2300 gas gauges? I just got a '94 B2300, and gas gauge reads empty with the key ON, and about 1/4 tank with the key OFF. Was told by previous owner it occasionally works, but I've never seen it work. Am starting to procure manuals and dig around the truck myself, but don't want to re-solve the problem if it's a known one. Haven't seen mention on the net of it being a recurring problem, but just starting to dig.
View 6 RepliesI bought the 94 B2300 from a guy that said he got it from an auction and didn't know much bout it. Got 30 mins down the road and went to down shift to 4th coming into town and all I got was grinding. Turned it off and it would go into other gears and start in gear with the clutch pushed in. Wen I tried to take off it wouldn't move and just died. Towed it home and installed a new clutch kit in it. Got the clutch bled and went to test drive it and now it is stuck in 1st gear. Can it be easily fixed or am I going to have to replace the transmission...
View 3 RepliesI am working on a 96 Mazda b2300 auto 2wd for a friend. His son was driving it when a loud noise, it died and wouldn't start back up. He had it towed to my house, I started to tear into to it and found it slipped the timing belt. So a rebuilt head, gaskets, timing belt, fuel injectors, water pump, thermostat, plugs, and fluids; tried to start it and nothing. Started troubleshooting and found the primary coil pack was out of spec, replaced and still nothing.
Changed out the CKPS still nothing? I have spark, I have fuel, I'm going to check compression tomorrow but the way the cylinders and pistons looked I don't think that is the issue but I going to check anyway, rechecked the timing marks they all lined up. Checked the fuel inertia switch not tripped. Could the PCM, or ICM cause a no start, and still be able to get spark and fuel?
I'm about to tear into a friends 2002 B2300 4 cyl. The lower hose that comes off of the coolant reservoir is leaking in the metal part of the line. Close to where it bolts to the block. At a glance, it looks like I have to pull the whole top of the motor apart to get it off since the line runs around behind the motor. Is there a trick to removing this coolant line without a lot of teardown? I'm not finding it at parts stores so I guess it's a stealership part.
View 2 Replies2008 Ranger 3.0L. I am trying to figure my next step in diagnosing a #4 misfire. At regular speeds I really dont hear it or feel it, mostly at idle warm or cold. 3.0L with 275,000 kilometers on it , reg oil changes.The CEL is on, but not blinking. Pulled a p0304 code. I then changed out the bosch plugs I had in with ford plugs and wires. The #4 plug looked okay just bigger gap. Still got the code.
I hooked up a sparkplug light to the coilpack and did not see any missing flashes . Changed fuel filter, checked fuel pressure,all within specs. Changed the oil and did not see anything in it. I read that it could be an injector but I have to remove the intake manifold to get at it. I also read to check compression. I figured if I have to take off the manifold I would put a new injector in, instead of switching them around. What is the most common cause for this code?
Problem: engine surging/hesitation, from idle to highway speeds. It will start and run fine, just hesitates/surges when gas is applied.
Before I pulled the codes, I tried seafoam in the gas tank, cleaned MAF sensor, cleaned throttle body, checked air filter, changed fuel filter, pulled/cleaned plugs, nothing worked.
Then today I finally used a scanner and pulled codes (my CEL doesn't work) and I got 157 and 158 MAF sensor fault, high and low voltage. I am reading about 6v on the C and D terminals of the MAF, I know that is much higher than normal, but what does that tell me? Why both high and low voltage readings? Just a bad sensor, or wherever that voltage comes from, ECM?
I also pulled 189 HEGO H02S sensor fault, unable to switch/lean during part throttle. What does that mean, just a bad O2 sensor?
Last I pulled a 542, fuel pump secondary circuit fault. Does that mean the fuel pump is bad or going bad?
More importantly, what should I troubleshoot first, would any of these codes cause my problem?
2000 F250 4x4 V10... I am getting code P1633, no power to Keep Alive Memory
Here are the symptoms...
First, the voltmeter shows under 10 volts. When this happens, the check engine light comes on and throws code P1633.
Also, I can't shift out of park for some reason when the voltmeter shows under 10 volts.
Also, when I apply the brake, the voltmeter drops completely, no other functions seem to affect it other than applying the brake. I know this is related to the shift interlock which could have something to do with not sensing the brake is applied and won't come out of park.
What I've checked so far:
Battery has good voltage
Alternator is charging
Fuse to PCM shows good voltage
Fuses to voltmeter and shift interlock show good voltage
All grounds I've found are good
The one problem I have found is there is no power to pin 55 to PCM, Keep alive power circuit.
So, I am trying to figure out where the voltmeter gets it's signal from after the fuse box under the dash or where it is grounded, I found the shift interlock ground and it is good.
Would the fact that there is no power to pin 55 cause the voltmeter problem and shift interlock problem? I am tempted to jump power to that pin, but this will not be easy and I don't want to do it if it will just mask the real problem.
Also, when I was first experiencing this problem, the voltmeter would jump around when going over bumps while driving, then it would finally settle under 10 volts. At one time I couldn't drive the truck and kept turning it off then on in hopes it would go back to normal, I applied the parking brake then released it and let it slam up, after that it went back to normal, not sure if the jolt make a connection or what, but I would lean towards a loose connection because of the jumping around of the gauge. Now it's constant though, I messed with a ton of wiring and can't get it to go back to normal. Is there another module that has to do with any of these functions or anything that ties them all together that I am missing?
I am at a loss. I am hoping there are no drive ability issues with this problem, I'll be going on a camping trip in a couple weeks and doubt I'll have it fixed by then. I figured out how to get it out of park bypassing the shift interlock, so that's not a problem.
My 2011 Ranger with a factory Sirius satellite receiver has started showing "SAT FAULT". Checked all the usual things like: Fuse, power, connections, & antenna.
View 1 Replies99 Ford Ranger 4-cyl. Check engine light is on; pulled fault code: "catalyst efficiency below threshold, bank 1." Cat converter is new as is rest of exhaust, o2 sensors are new, and its been recently tuned up.
View 6 RepliesSo here is what I got. Code 157 maf sensor below minimum voltage. Here is what the truck does. When the MAF is plugged in and I step on it, the truck surges and when it drops below 1k rpm it dies but I can start it back up. If I hold the throttle at 1k it stays alive. When I drive with the MAF unplugged it runs better no surging but it still dies. Here is what I have done. Reset codes no change, put new MAF in no change. I have traced all 4 MAF wires checked continuity from inside of plug to inside of plug.
All wires checked out good. No cuts breaks or anything. I have checked my battery, starter, and alternator ad all check out fine. I read that someone said if the corresponding transistor in the PCM took a dumb then it would cause not enough voltage to get to the plug because the transistor would dump the voltage from the battery leading to the MAF. I thought about running a direct power source from the battery to the voltage side of the MAF with a switch in the truck to just see if that would solve the issue but I don't know if that is possible or smart.
I have a 1997 Ford Ranger with a 4.0L 2WD. The check engine light just turned on with a code of p0133. I know that this is something with the bank 1 sensor 1. I tried doing some research and I think that it is on the passenger side before the cat converter. Now, I don't know what to do from there. How do I go about fixing this? What part do I need? How do I fix it?
View 1 RepliesWhat airbag code 29 on a 2001 ranger means? I have not seen that number on any code lists. I triple checked the code and it is 29.
View 9 RepliesJust checked SES code and read P0162 I think. Stated rich fuel mixture bank 1 & bank 2 (3.0) Is this an O2 sensor or MAP issue?
View 8 RepliesI am having an engine issue with my 1995 Ranger with a 2.3L. I have been having a P0340 code that kept appearing after several attempts at resetting the PCM. I gave up and took it to a Ford dealer for diagnostics and they called the CPS bad. They changed it, but the CEL light immediately came on with the code still kept coming up. The service rep. showed me the old sensor, it had a spot on the head of it where it looked like something was rubbing it. I'm assuming it's slightly rubbing on the gear it points to, which is the oil pump gear, correct? The truck runs fine, no performance issues whatsoever. Is it possible my oil pump shaft has developed play in it's shaft, causing this?
View 1 RepliesI've been getting this code for a while. Changed the Purge solenoid and valve, replaced the hose from the canister to the two units, didn't change the hose to the intake.
Is there anything else to check? Could it be a bad gas cap? the one on the truck is a replacement.