Seems like the temp control on the dash isnt hooked up....with just the heat on...temp doesn't change....stays hot. if i turn the temp to the blue side its still hot. the AC on it blows hot air....Max AC its cool. AC compressor is working fine.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford Ranger 3.0L truck that, all of a sudden, has a problem with the HVAC system that blows air only thru the defrost vents even when selecting any other vent levels (defrost, face/middle or floor levels).
I did find a thread on another forum regarding this problem, only it was for the 95-01 Ranger model years, yet they say that the 2002 Ranger is not the same as those earlier models.
My wife got off work tonight and went to start up our 2001 Ranger XLT, it starts, but wont stay running unless she puts the gas pedal down, it is also blowing white smoke from the exhaust and she says it sounds like it is missing, sputters and dies when she takes foot of gas.
No previous symptoms, ran perfect this morning, no loss of power all day, no smoke no sputtering and no check engine light. Any clue as to what it is. I have heard head gasket and O2 sensor.
I have a 2007 Ranger with the 3.0L engine. It has about 70,000 miles on it, and generally runs just fine.
This morning, the A/C stopped cooling. It was working fine on my way home last night, and simply does not cool today. There is no water underneath the motor when the idling while parked, so the compressor is apparently either not working, or not running at all. The fan blows hard, and the heat works. Just no cooling.
What are the possible and most likely causes of this? How much will it likely cost to have fixed? Also, when I was looking underneath the truck today, I noticed that the differential seems to be leaking a little. Is that an expensive problem?
So I did alot of electrical work on this truck but never had any problems with the brake lights, now they dont work and the fuse blows every time you pop one in.
View 1 Replies2008 Ranger 3.0L. I am trying to figure my next step in diagnosing a #4 misfire. At regular speeds I really dont hear it or feel it, mostly at idle warm or cold. 3.0L with 275,000 kilometers on it , reg oil changes.The CEL is on, but not blinking. Pulled a p0304 code. I then changed out the bosch plugs I had in with ford plugs and wires. The #4 plug looked okay just bigger gap. Still got the code.
I hooked up a sparkplug light to the coilpack and did not see any missing flashes . Changed fuel filter, checked fuel pressure,all within specs. Changed the oil and did not see anything in it. I read that it could be an injector but I have to remove the intake manifold to get at it. I also read to check compression. I figured if I have to take off the manifold I would put a new injector in, instead of switching them around. What is the most common cause for this code?
I just changed the plugs and wires on my 2008 Ranger 3L. Now it runs rough with no power. It was fine before I did the work but I thought I should change the plugs at 215000KM. I used Ford wires but unfortunately I used Bosh platinum plugs and now think I will change to Ford plugs. Do you think the Bosch plugs would be that bad for the Ranger? What is the belt tensioner torx size? I had to move the A/C compressor over to get the #4 plug but had a very hard time trying to loosen the belt.
View 7 RepliesIn my 08 Ranger, when I'm filling up with gas, and I flip the lever on the handle of the pump so that it stays on, and then gently let the nozzle rest, in all my older cars it would stay on until the tank was full, and then just click off. But in the Ranger, it clicks off randomly, with nothing to do with the amount in the tank. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the angle of the nozzle, because when I hold the nozzle lightly from where the hose enters the nozzle, so that the spigot it at a different angle, it doesn't click off.
Is this a design flaw? (because it's not like any other car out there in that respect) and can I do anything about it?
Driving a 2008 Ranger XLT 3.0. Starts runs and drives fine, how ever it seems to have a tinny ruff idle.
What I noticed is when in park or neutral when I idle it up @ 3000 RPMs it seems like it runs on 3 cylinders and sort of cuts in and out very quickly. Is this a protection thing on the ranger.
Running on the road it kicks down and runs thru all the gears normally from idle all the way up to 5000 RPMs. Just would like to make sure this is normal.
I have a 2008 Ranger Sport 4x4. I noticed yesterday that when I stepped on the brake pedal it felt like nothing was there until I step a little harder then it was like full brake application. The truck only has 63000 on it. Then every once in awhile it would be normal ie very light brake application and slows like it should. Then back to same issue... Any thoughts about this??
View 8 RepliesI've got an '08 FX4 that has developed quite a loud and annoying squeak from the rear leaf springs. It happens when I'm slowly applying power and going over bumps such as speed bumps or similar. More so when I'm going up hill.
I initially thought it was a u-joint going bad, and had my driveline mechanic take a look at it. He discovered it was the rear leafs making the noise. He sprayed them with an aerosol light grease and the noise was instantly gone. The problem is, the noise comes back after the grease spray has worn off (usually after driving in the rain) which happens a lot in the Vancouver area.
This is my 3rd Ranger and I have never had this problem. I don't drive in unusual places (beach, sandy, dusty areas) so I don't know why this is happening. It does look rusty in the areas that I can see in between the individual leafs. Is this a common problem for this vintage of Ranger?
I have 2008 mazda B2300 pickup with P1633 fault code. Is this a mazda code (battery overcharge) or ford code (KAM voltage low) since it's a re-badged ranger? Alternator output measured at battery is 14.4 vdc.
View 8 RepliesMy son has a 2008 Ranger 4.0 4wd 5 speed. Every month or so we need to bleed the clutch as the transmission becomes very difficult to shift. It does not lose fluid, but seems to be holding air. And it's not easy to bleed this setup. Slave going bad? I guess the transmission will need to come out then.
View 3 RepliesI purchased a Ford Ranger from a single owner last year very good condition. It has about 320 000 on the odo. The truck was working perfectly the last year but recently started giving problems when I start up the engine (cold start).
Whenever it gets cold the engine would shake violently every 1-2 seconds during idling but stops when the engine is hot. I also hear some scary sounds from the engine while it is shaking (only if I stand outside).
I have researched it and I can't find a solution, apparently it can be a lot of things as well as timing belts etc. I had a mechanic change my timing belt a few months ago along with a major service. I am very scared something might go wrong with the engine.
Make, FORD Ranger
Model, 2008 Montana
Engine 2.5 tdi
Mileage 320 000
2x4
in my 2008 ford Ranger Sport with a V6. The smell reminds me of one winter when I had stepped in dog and didn't know it until I was four miles down the road and the heater was on full blast. The smell floods the cabin when the heater is first turned on and warms up, but dissipates after a while. (And I don't have dog on the floor boards or on my boots.)
The smell does not come out the AC vents or when the AC was operated this past summer.
Tested/checked the blend door, actuator, Low pressure cycling switch, compressor clutch and they all work. The accumulator does not condense, or at least that I've noticed. The gauge on a can of R134a reads 55 at 85 degrees outside. Anything else I can check to diagnose a problem?
View 4 RepliesThere used to be a audible pop in my stereo speaker when my heat would kick on. Now there is not. My heat did this last winter around the same time. I checked Fuses. The blower blows, but it just blows cold air. It could be a thermostat, or a clogged heater core. 1997 Ford Ranger 2.3L ...
View 2 RepliesHaving difficulties with an air conditioner. 2006 KR F150. The air blows, but not cold. I just had everything checked in regards to pressures, freon, etc., but still only blows ambient temperatures.
View 3 RepliesMy blower in my truck only blows at levels 3 and 4. Do the blower motor going out? Switch? Motor relay? I've read a bunch of things try?
View 5 RepliesI have a f150 2007 with a 4.2 in it. The CEL comes on and when this happens the air comes out the a/c vents and no where else. We have cleared the code out but it comes back on when we do clear it out the air blows out where the dial is set. I think there is a vac leak somewhere....
View 14 RepliesI have an 06 F-150, there is lots of heat but it only blows on defrost. Is this the blend door motor or is it something else?
View 6 Replies