Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2007 XLT - Cruise Control Light Blinks After Push On And Resume Buttons
Oct 15, 2015
My cruise control has been out for awhile and I have run the diagnostic test several times, earlier this year and now again recently. The cruise control light blinks after I push the ON and RESUME buttons, but no blink for the COAST button. I suspect there is a problem in the wiring, but I wanted to get your thoughts before I replace the switches. 2007 Ranger XLT ....
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It started with the cruise control turning off every once in a while. Then it would only stay on for 7-8 seconds, then eventually it would turn on, then shut right off. Now it won't even turn on.
When I did the diagnosis sequence (On, Resume, Coast, Set....) it blinked 3 times saying "Bad deactivation switch or circuit". So I replaced the blue switch on the brake pedal and it still doesn't engage.
It's a 4.0 liter with a manual tranny. I've been researching this a lot, and it seems in 2007 they changed up things probably because of the big recall.
I don't see any kind of deactivation switch around the master cylinder. It seems that was in use until 2006 or 2005.
I see a different kind of switch on the clutch pedal, thinking it must also have a deactivation switch. I see a long spring loaded type of switch with about 5-6 wires coming out of it, but I can't find any info on the web about that switch.
All three of my brake lights are working. It seemed to deteriorate rather quickly (Over the course of 3 days) and now it's completely dead.
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Is there a way to resume cruise control once it is stopped by braking or hitting the cruise button? My other vehicle saves it so that it can be resumed but I don't see this option in the Azera and have to set it up again every time.
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My 2000 4.0 XLT Ranger has been without working cruise control for several months now. I've checked what appear to be likely related fuses and they're all good. I *DID* have a recent problem with my brake lights but that's been fixed. (The shop that replaced my rear leaf spring hanger brackets pinched a hot wire between the brackets and the frame which eventually shorted. Wire and fuse were replaced.)
A few years back, Ford had a recall related to the Cruise Controls causing fires. I had the recall service performed on this truck. In a nutshell: The switch to disengage cruise when braking is attached to the master brake cylinder, and a leak in the switches diaphragm allows brake fluid into the switch causing an electrical short, causing the wires to heat up, and in some cases causing a fire. Ford, instead of switching to a different switch design (like maybe a mechanical switch on the pedal?) put a fuseable link in the hot wire from the potentially leaky switch.
Well, the truck now has over 150K miles on the factory brake cylinder/cruise control switch. I'm suspecting that my switch finally leaked, shorted and blew the fuseable link. Would Ford fix it? (They should, considering the lame fix for a lame design flaw.)
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I am normally on the super duty side but I have a 2002 ranger 3.0 auto EX cab if that matters with this issue. My cruse control will only come on rarely but when i does it works fine. Most of the time when I hit the ON button the indicator only blinks like a "relay" of some sort is not latching up. Don't know if this is an all solid state system or if there are electro mechanical relays involved as well. When it does work and I hit the brakes it will drop out completely rather than just disconnect from the controller and need to hit the ON button again, usually with no results.
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So I'm motoring along a country road with the cruise set at 50 mph and the truck starts to increase speed.
Tap the brake - nothing happens. I'm up to 65 mph! Knock it into neutral and it revs to around 3,500 rpms and then it unsticks.
What in the world is going on with that? After thinking on it, a few miles farther on and I set the cruise again.
It began immediately picking up speed. I hit the brake and nothing happened. Then I hit the off button and nothing happened.
So again I bumped it up into neutral and it did the same thing - revved for a moment and then kicked off.
The dealership where I get my service done can't get to it for several days. So I'm checking in the meanwhile to see possibilities to identify a cause.
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today my 98 ranger 4.0 would love to have cruise control once again .
I have checked the obvious , fuses connectors etc. I know on my f250 they had an issue with the pressure sensor mounted on the brake master cylinder leaking , I did check that and not leaking yet . I can't even get the system to turn on. So my question to to the forum , is there a common issue with ranger cruise control that I am unaware of ?
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I just bought a 2000 Ranger. I bought it at company auction for cheap because it wouldn't start. The battery was dead when I got to it. I put a brand new battery in it since it has 155,000 miles. When you turn the key to the on position, the theft light starts blinking rapidly. It will continue to do so for about 45 seconds if you leave the key on; then it will go out. However, if you turn the key to start, all you hear is relays clicking. The engine doesn't crank at all. I jumped the starter relay and the engine turns over. I have the factory manuals for wiring diagrams and diagnostic procedures.
The theft system relies on trouble codes to point you in the right direction for testing. I borrowed an Actron code reader (like you get at Autozone) and it says there are no codes. I'm wondering, though, if it only reads the SAE standard codes from any vehicle and not the manufacturer specific codes like the theft system. I have gone through a few of the diagnostic procedures with a multimeter, but it's like looking for a needle in a haystack without the codes. So far everything I've checked has come back ok. Any common issues this might be related to? BTW, I've gotten bits and pieces of info about this truck from the guys who drove it. Apparently, it just wouldn't start one day and was parked for the next several months until I bought it.
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2003 ford edge 3.0 V6 ... I was driving down interstate today going 70, set my cruise control & the button broke. My accelerator was stuck, when I would hit the brakes it would literally shake the whole truck. What happened & why?
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My AC clutch, radio, cruise control, and turn signals are not working. I have checked all fuses and relays that I can find, all good. From what I have read, these are not part of the GEM function. What I need to check next!
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The cruise control switch on my 2000 Ranger just broke. It looks like you have to remove the airbag to access it. How is that accessed? It looks like there are 2 plugs on the back of the wheel that need to be removed.
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I have a 2001 Ranger 4.0L 4x4 with 101,000 miles on it. I went to go get in it the other day and the Air Bag Light came on out of the blue. I've drove it some since and it is still on. The light blinks for about 1 minute upon startup and then stays on solid for the remainder of the trip. What would make this come on so suddenly and is there anything I can do/check?
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My speedometer stopped working yesterday after i replaced the 2 cruise control buttons on the steering wheel. When i connected the the battery the horn started blasting and I went over tap the horn then it stopped. Then i noticed that the horn did not work anymore. I put back the original cruise control buttons and still did not work .So know instead of fixing the cruise control buttons, I broke the horn and the speedometer while the cruise control is still broken. I checked the fuses and they all are good. What can it be ?
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4.0. I'm having what feels Like a Miss on Light throttle/cruise. Once warmed up it's fine. Idle is fine too. There is No CEL/Codes.
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2012 GLS ... For a few weeks after buying my car, the cruise control electronics were perfectly responsive.
I find that after a few thousands miles, I am able to turn ON the cruise control easily, but often now pressing the 'Set' button doesn't do anything until I press the On/Off button and turn it back on, hit Cancel a bunch of times, and THEN it might let me 'Set' the CC.
It kind of scares me to think that the CC could malfunction and not let me turn it off AT ALL one day, which is far worse than simply not being able to set the CC.
Would the dealer be able to simply "reset" the electronics pertaining to these controls?
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During the tedious removal of the airbag from my mk4 multifunction steering wheel, I managed to rip the cruise control buttons wires out of their harness. I am honestly bewildered by the descriptions I've found online, and just want a photo of which colored wires should go in which holes XD.
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Got a bit of an issue with the cabin lights in the rear. I am able to manually turn on the lights by pushing the individual light buttons, however if I push either the 'door open' or 'rear light' buttons there is no response.
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I have a 1994 Ford Ranger Supercab with 180,000 miles, 4.0ltr 6cyl and it is in relatively good condition. When I bought the truck the check engine light was on. The previous owner said that it was something in the gas tank that has gone bad but it was not a big deal and the truck could be driven with no problems.
My mechanics have tried several times to read the error code but their diagnostic tool won't tell them what is wrong.
I have noticed over the past few days that when I am slowing down and riding the clutch (I was making a u-turn this morning) that the truck will shut off. It starts right back up but it keeps happening.
I have been considering replacing the IAC, new spark plugs, rotor and wires and fuel filter but I am not 100% this will fix my problem. I am NOT a mechanic but know plenty of them so it will be a situation where I buy the parts and a buddy puts them in.
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2004 ford ranger 3.0 ... So here it goes I am pretty mechanically incline for the most part i would say until this last week i got a rod knock. So i replaced all my push rods put everything back together and now my car cranks but just wont start up where did i go wrong. I cant afford to get another truck i just want my baby back up and running ...
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On my 2007 Subaru Forester (100k miles) the CEL light is on and my cruise control light is blinking (cruise control does not work in this condition). Computer scan indicated front O2 sensor failed and my mechanic replaced it. No joy. Computer scan reported 0 data from EGR valve--replaced it. No joy.
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A few months back my Explorer Sport Trac's traction control activated while I was driving up a hill. My engine idled down and I slowed almost to a stop. Almost immediately, the light went off and everything returned to normal. This morning on the way to university, the traction control activated and would not allow the engine to resume acceleration until I disabled it (which only allows it to be disabled below 40 mph).
It finally stopped as I was arriving at campus. There were no odd noises, nothing unusual about how it drove (apart from the issue above), and no other warning lights were present.
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