Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2007 - Traction Lock Differential Making Noises
Nov 15, 2013
My 2007 3.0L XLT 2WD Ranger with 7.5" traction-lock differential started making expensive noises last weekend coming from the rear end. Shop has not yet opened up the differential because the initial though was just do a swap.
Turns out that 7.5" LS is hard to find, plenty of open diffs available. So I suggested that I'd rather swap in an 8.8" LS rear end anyway but turns out that these are also hard to find. Was a LS rear end option just not very common? or do these get scooped up just as fast as they become available?
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1990 Ranger 5 speed... The tranny has recently started making noises, first I thought it was the throw out bearing but I am afraid it is more than that. As I go thru the gears the trans makes rattling/grinding sounds: in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 5th it is loud but 4th it is quiet. What might be going on inside the tranny....
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Thought I would try and fill up the front. Diff well not as easy as the rear diff. They make a special hose or some thing. To put in the bottle so u can get some Gear oil in ?
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My front diff is busted, and I mean bad.. I can barely even run the truck 5mph, and it's very loud. The diff casing is even busted. I want to just disable it to drive in 2wd. What's the easiest way to do it? It won't disable using the push button control.
Can I just remove all the locking stuff in the front wheels, so there's nothing for the axles to grab on, and manually turn the solenoid at the transfer case to shut off the front wheel axle?
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I have been hauling a lot of garbage with my 96 ranger this last week. The differential has been making a little more than usual noise like growling, but it has always been smooth, now all of a sudden it shakes like a tire out of balance up to about 55 then it is like a switch is thrown and everything quiets down and the shaking goes away, until i get around 55. I haven't climbed under the truck yet just checked the tires and grabbed the drive line they are all ok,i don't see any leaks so it is a head scratcher. Hopefully it will be something easy, but it hardly ever is.
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On my '88 Ranger, there is the key lock that needs to be pressed to remove the key. When I changed the ignition cylinder, I darn near went ahead and removed it. I though I better check here first, and see if I was going to disable some other function I don't know about.
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i have a 96 ranger 2wd with a 2.3l engine and a 5 spd manual. everything works except the rear diff whines a little under load. putting new bearings in doesn't look to difficult that's what i will plan on doing but first i need to take the cover off and need to know what fluid to put in?
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The rear axle in my dads 1998 ford ranger has been vibrating for quite a while so I pulled the cover today and found that the fluid was full of metal shavings, it was glittering. I also found this metal chunk in the differential so my mechanical experience tells me this is not a good thing. I am taking it apart tomorrow any tips or do's or don't? Also, what this metal chunk is and what that knurled up end is??
Door tag told me it was a 7.5 open 4:10 axle.
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Truck: Ranger
Year: 1990
Engine: 2.3 Lima
Trans: 5 Speed Manual
Miles: 83,445
Recently Replaced:Oil Pressure Switch
Oil Pan Gasket
Crank Position Sensor
Spark Plugs
Plug Wireset
Ignition Control Module
Driver Side Coilpack
After I got done with all of this crap on my Ranger, I noticed that it was driving great! But...today I was on my way to school and BAM! My engine idle started hitting (presumably because I do not have a tachometer) about 3000RPM and lowering down to about 2500RPM and from there, every time I am not in gear it decided to fluctuate between 2500RPM and 3000RPM. Crazy style too.
Now, I got to school, and getting closer to it at a stop light the truck basically died. It was almost at 100'ish RPM. I gave it gas, and BAM. I hear a continuous hissing noise from under my hood. Haven't diagnosed it fully yet because I just got home and its 12AM.
Now, every time I stop at a light or in traffic or whatever it may be, I have to give it gas every other second, like a small push on the pedal, to make sure the truck doesn't die. Also, every time I am out of gear and my RPM's are at an 'idle' state, I get continuous hissing from somewhere, I get no power loss or anything, just really weird idle RPM's and hissing when my foot is not on the gas basically. It is strange. I think It is some sort of Vacuum leak but I am not sure.
To get a better picture of the 'hissing' noise, it is the same hissing as you would hear when letting the air out of a tire. That is the best way I could describe it.
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I have a 95 ranger with an overdrive auto. If you put your foot in it the converter wont lock up, you can get the tack past redline, but if you let off and the rpms drop below 2000, it locks up and holds until you apply the accelerator to much and it kicks it back out. Also the speedometer bounces and may not read right, abs light is sometimes on and it won't idle below 1000, I've checked for vacuum leaks already.
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2004 auto ranger 120k miles
When I bought it there was a lifter making a tap tap tap. Its not all the time or consistent which makes me feel its a failed lifter as opposed to a rocker arm that is loose. Ive tried the "stuff" in the oil. Seafoam, marvel mystery, etc with no luck. So this coming winter Im going to break it down and replace the lifter.
First question. I havent put a stethoscope on it or used the "hose to ear" method to track down which one it is. Im pretty sure its the right bank in the front. Will it be obvious which one it is when I get it broken down?
Next. At 120k miles should I be worried about the other lifters? Ive never had one fail on anything I own and hardly ever hear them on other cars. I pretty much thought that hydraulic lifters were failproof anymore. Should I be worried about the others?
Next next, do I need to be worried about damage to the pushrod and or rocker arm? Should I be prepared to replace those as well? Finally anything else to be concerned about or consider?
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Under mild-heavy braking, the rear brakes on my ranger lock up... EVERYTIME. Not just when its wet, or humid. Everytime I hit the brakes hard they lock. I think I'm getting little, to no pressure to the front brakes either. Could it be just a Proportioning valve?
Truck is a 94' 4.0l V6, RCLB, Auto, 4X4.
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Just picked up a 90 Ranger last night, 4.0 EC, good ole A4LD, from a recipt I found has 70K or so on rebuild, was driving it today and the TC unlocked, and now it won't lock back up. I checked fluid and it was a little low, topped it off and drove it, and it was the same thing. I'm kinda new to thease A4LDs I know they can have issues, but can be good too. Just want to know whats going on so I can fix it! No codes were found when I scanned it. Trans otherwise shifts fine, you can feel it go into OD but no lockup.
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I have a 98 ranger4x4 front hubs will not lock in. replaced vac lines that were rotten still will not lock,checked vacuum at solenoid had vac for a min or so then it stopped, ran vac strait to main vac line for continuous vac and they still will not lock in, had 4 wheel just the other day. What can I check or do besides set it on fire.
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I am trying to replace the key lock cylinder (where you insert your key to start the truck) in my 93 Ranger. Using the Haynes manual, I have removed the steering wheel cover (I don't have airbags), pulled the steering wheel, removed the 3 plastic decorative shrouds and looked at a naked steering column assembly. The manual says there is a 1/8" hole on the bottom of the steering assembly where you can push up the actuator pin to release the lock cylinder assembly.
I looked and looked (even with a flashlight) and could not find a hole. I looked at the new key lock cylinder assembly and found the little actuator pin so I sorta know where the pin would be in the installed assembly. The entire key lock assembly is enshrouded (is that a word?) in the cast aluminum steering assembly.
There was a small metal plate - but that plate is just for access of the release of the steering wheel lock actuator (so I carefully bent it back!!). I know all this is for theft protection, but the truck is co safe I can't even replace the lock assembly.
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My keys got stolen from my ignition (battery had died because key was left in ACC and I assume the attempted car jack ended in a key theft for some reason.)
The Ranger is 96, tilt steering with plastic shrouding and column shift A/T... I followed the procedure recommended for exchanging the cylinder without the keys:
-drilled retaining pin
-drilled key slot
-manually removed parts with needle nose
-cleaned, greased and went to reinstall.....
I discovered the small metal washer between the green plastic washer and the gear was broken in half because I nicked it with the end of the drill bit. I inspected this and from what I can tell it looks like the green plastic washer is designed to hold onto the metal washer, the two of them together, from what I gather are designed to keep the gear from moving sideways or tilting. I figured that the washer should do it's job even in two pieces if I could get it in there straight and get the green washer to grab it.
Anyway I stuck it all back in there, slid the new lock cylinder in in run position, and nothing good happened. It's in the whole way, I can see the retaining pin centered in the whole from underneath, but when I try to seat the retaining pin it won't budge. I tried to align the parts at a million different angles and I just have no luck. I am planning on replacing the little metal washer, but I don't feel like it being broken alone is enough to keep all parts from functioning properly. I am stumped because I did the procedure step for step and there is nothing else apparently broken or damaged. The only other factor is that the steering wheel is locked and that sometimes made the other cylinder hard to turn, but it freed up usually with a little wiggling, this cylinder won't budge.
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I recently bought a 1994 Ford Ranger, XLT 4 cylinder supercab. They lost the door keys when they replaced the ignition because they never locked their doors. I bought new lock cylinders with keys and set out for an adventure. Removing the metal clamp that holds the cylinder in place was actually easier than I thought. It's that darn plastic piece connecting the cylinder to the rod for the lock system that will not break or come off. Here's the best picture I could find real quick. How do you get that vile piece of 20 year old plastic off? It's in a difficult place to get tools in there, and I can't seem to get leverage with a small screwdriver anywhere. What tips and tricks do y'all have?
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The truck just won't turn over makes a rrrgh rrrgh noice like it wants to start, I push the gas peddle to the floor and I should smell a lot of gas but don't!!! I added oil when it died at the store last night and it started up but the oil stick indicates oil is fine??? Pulled the diode out this morning put it back in the truck would not start just made that noise but turned it off and reseated the diode and it started??? These things may or may not have anything to do with the problem. Could it be electrical or oil pressure gauge sticking or something else that I could tell my mechanic and he could fix so I don't get stuck????
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My 1999 Ranger with 4.0 EFI V6 engine makes a "sucking sound" occasionally. At first I thought it was a belt slipping, but now I believe it is some kind of intake air leak. If I stop the truck while the sound is on, I can open my driver's door and get to about the front of the hood before the sound stops. I have never been able to observe the engine with the "sucking sound" on. Sometimes the engine will kill when the "sucking sound" stops, if the engine is idling and in gear. If I just keep driving normally, there does not seem to be any permanent problem. What the problem is?
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It looks like my door lock wire looms go under the hood but I haven't had any luck finding them. Install an alarm with negative 500Ma pulse to operate them ? I have relays but am also wondering if the truck has its own somewhere that I can piggyback onto. I know the colors are Pink with a yellow stripe and Pink with a light green stripe.
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The T/O bearing makes a high pitch squeal until you put light pressure on clutch then it will go away. Does this thing have a preload on bearing at all times or should there be free play like in the old days??
Another thing that has me wondering is when I push clutch all the way in it actually puts a load on the engine. Having T/O bearing so bad it puts a load on the engine?
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