The trucks seems to Idle Rough in Park and Drive, Cold or Hot. It mellows out as soon as I give it gas but at stop lights or in park it goes back to a seemingly rough idle.
This is my first Ford Ranger and dont know if its normal. No code or dummy lights.
2007 2WD 4cyl
2007 Ranger 4.0l, idles rough at low rpm, in park or drive, with or without the AC on.
View 1 Replies"95, 2.3L, automatic. Stalls for a couple of seconds and nearly dies when shifting from drive to neutral or from drive to park. Doesn't do it when cold at high idle or when AC is on. It catches back up and idles fine but nearly dies when coming out of drive. Installed a new idle air control valve but no change.
View 1 RepliesMy gf's dad said I could have his 07 Ranger 4.0 2wd with 230K on the clock if I fix the tranny 5R55E. One day he was driving home and all of a sudden had no drive. The tranny will run thru drive, neutral and reverse, but has no drive to it. Engine revs with nothing to show.
Tranny fluid was very dark and pan had nothing but the usual "metal flour" in it. I stopped there, did not pull the filter or anything else.
I have a 2007 Ford Ranger 3.0TDCI when I drive on a road that is bumpy or on a ground road the ABS light keeps coming on , sometimes it just flickers other times it keeps on for about 5minutes. I when for a service 3000km back but they told me the brakes is fine. What it can be?
View 1 RepliesThere is a clunking sound and feel from the front end of my 2007 Ranger FX4 when in 4 wheel drive. This happens sometimes but not always on engaging or disengaging 4 wheel drive, as well as sporadically while driving along. I took it back to Ford on warranty with this problem last year, and after a few attempts I had them admit that something was wrong and they finally diagnosed that it was the front drive shaft that was binding where it leaves the transfer case, this was replaced. I have now put maybe 50km (max) on in 4 wheel drive and the problem is back, I don't think the problem was ever fixed.
View 14 Repliesits 1986 Ranger with a 2.9L V6 Auto 4x4, well to start with it seriously over fueling also it idles very roughly and even stalls out sometimes, when I'm trying to hold it at a speed it acts like it is missing (I guess that's from over fueling as well and it also pukes out lots of black smoke, it goes through way too much gas for a V6), but when I speed up fairly hard it acts fine until I try to maintain speed again, I have already put a tune up into it and a new EGR as well a fuel regulator and how to fix it?
View 14 RepliesI have a really nice 1986 Ranger XLT with a 2.9 V6 (injected) and OD Automatic with about 135k miles. I've had the truck for over ten years and have been pretty happy with it. I'm still trying to correct a couple of nuisance items:
1. Sometimes it runs smoothly, and at others it has a rough idle, and once in a while it will even stall. Before it stalls, it idles or runs roughly, and will miss erratically. When it quits, it does not fade out like it is running low on gas; it quits suddenly, like the ignition is turned off. If I am driving at highway speeds, sometimes it will buck as it misses, and sometimes stalls out. But it always starts up right away afterwards. This does not happen often, but when it does, it happens several times over hours or days, and then goes away by itself for months, even years, and then comes back for another round.
I was hoping whatever was wrong would totally fail, but it has been several years and is not getting better, nor worse. Fuel mileage varies, too, from 16 to high 20's MPG. I have new low- and high-pressure fuel pumps (dual tanks), new gas and air filters, checked all the electrical connections, put in a new ignition switch, new O2 sensor, Air Flow sensor, EGR, replaced all the vacuum lines, new battery and cables, new starter, all new electrical relays, fuel pressure regulators, new fuel pump inertia switch, tuned up engine (incl. wires, cap, rotor, ign module, plugs and timing), and cleaned out the already sparkling-clean tanks.
2. My oil pressure will drop at idle to low-normal when the engine is warm. It never goes to below Normal on the gauge. I have replaced the gauge, sending unit, and oil pump. This is a long-term issue, and is not getting any better or worse.
Went to work one day and went to put my truck in park and it went as far as reverse. It has alot of play in the shifter. I have had a couple of people look at it and said that they would not touch it because of the air bag. I am not afraid to work on it myself if I just knew what to do. I am a single mom and on a budget, I would rather do it myself.
View 6 RepliesI have a '97 Ford Ranger with an automatic transmission that wouldn't shift out of park last night. A friend opened the hood and jiggled the steering column some, and finally it shifted. We checked the transmission fluid and it is full, a dark brown color. What the problem might be?
View 3 RepliesI have a 97 ford taurus that when it is at idle (either in driver or park) it over heats. But if you give it some gas and the rpms get up to over 2300 the temp starts dropping immidiatly down to where it should be. Also the heater in the car stopped working not sure if the problems are connected.
View 10 RepliesWhy my trucks engine is cutting out. idles fine and runs fine when on the road, it only stalls in park if i rev the engine, and it stalls immediately when i put it in reverse.
I took it to a shop and they scanned it and said it was a o2 sensor problem. replaced both o2 sensors(they were both bad) but no luck there, still having issues.
My 04 EDGE 3.0 when sitting in Park will not rev up past 3500 RPM. The check engine light has been on for awhile showing P0316 and I believe P0302. My mechanic said number 2 is misfiring; the coil packs/wires/injectors are all good. He said eventually if I want to keep it a new engine would be needed, but as long as it's not burning oil it should be okay to drive for awhile. Why it won't rev up? I wouldn't think one cylinder misfiring would cause that.
View 3 RepliesIt's a few times in the past 2 weeks, the shift lever won't come out of PARK easily. Sometimes I have to wiggle the shifter for quite awhile before I can get the shifter to shift out of PARK. It also doesn't start when that happens, like everything works but it doesn't start. It's like it's locked. It finally lets go and I can start it and put it in Drive and Reverse and go on my way. But there's not set thing that I can do to make it work.
It's just luckily let me go the few times it's happened. We replaced the shift cable about 1.5-2 years ago and of course the cable is out of warranty. But even if it's the cable, it's definitely going into park because you can hear the click when you stop the truck and turn it off, and throw it into PARK. But when the shift get's stuck it won't crank or make any kind of cranking noise, it's like the battery is dead but it isn't. When it happens you can't even shift it out of PARK to try and start it in D or R.
So I was thinking something could be going on with the NSS. Is there any kind of brake pedal interlock switch on a 98 Ranger? I notice when I start it and press the brake pedal it clicks loud under the dash, which I don't remember hearing always. But maybe it always makes that click when you hit the pedal because I usually always have the radio on. What I can do if the shift gets stuck when I go to leave work? What do I need to look at to determine the problem?
So I turned off my truck the other day, got out, and it started again on its own. Confused, I looked in my hand to see my key. I got back in, and tapped the brake thinking the command start had engaged, even though I did not have the remote with me. It continued to run. So I put the key back in the ignition, turned it to ON and back OFF. It still ran. I had to run inside for a half a minute so I left it running.
Came back and drove away with no issues. When I stopped again about 2 minutes later and shifted to PARK, the starter engaged making it's terrible 'hey stupid, I'm already running' sound. I tried shutting it OFF quickly but it still ran and made it's skinning crawling noise. So I quickly shifted back to DRIVE. All the gears worked fine but PARK and NEUTRAL had the starter engaging. I also could not shut the truck off from DRIVE as the key would not turn.
I drove over to a local garage and called them from the truck as I was effectively trapped in the truck with my foot on the brake, unable to shift to PARK or turn it OFF. No supporting staff. So I drove back to work where I had a co-worker remove the battery cable at which point I was able to shift to PARK and turn OFF the truck. I let it sit like that for about 10 minutes and haven't had a problem since.
What happened?? And for the record I can put gas in the tank and changed my own oil, but that is the extent of my vehicle knowledge.
I purchased a 1990 Ranger 4x4 with a v6 from auction. Took it to local shop to have them check it for me. Found out that it has a 3.0 in it and mechanic believes it is from a taurus. Truck actually runs extremely well. Has a few codes due to the ECM is for an automatic trans. Now the problem. I was on the highway-in 5th gear. Terrible noise the nothing. When I got it pulled over. The drive shaft was hanging from the rear end. It had been twisted like a straw. The transmission side had the yoke only, and the tail housing was cracked. It rolls and the drive shaft at the rear end turns. I figured the trans locked up. I don't know what trans to look for---is a 90 2.9 5 speed the same on a 3.0 ??
View 6 RepliesI have a 98 XLT 4.0, auto trans with 109K miles and when it's really hot outside and it's been driven when I start back up and put it into drive it sometimes takes a while to go into gear. A friend says the transmission fluid doesn't look too good and it smells. Obviously I have a transmission problem but my question is would changing the fluid do any good at all? Since the tranny is bad what harm could it do? The fluid was never changed previously.
View 6 RepliesI have a 97 ranger 2wd 4.0 with 5R55E. Drives fine in 1st and second. Slips in drive and rev.
View 6 RepliesI recently replaced the oil seal on the front differential where the front drive shaft connects to the diff. I believe it is called the pinion oil seal. I had to remove the drive shaft to do the job. Got the oil seal in place and then slipped the u-joint yoke on and hand threaded the retainer nut on to get it started. I did mark the relative position of the drive shaft to the front yoke and the rear yoke. I had previously noted that the retaining nut, before I took it off had about 2.5 threads showing. I had to remove it with an impact wrench.
So...I used the impact wrench to put it back on with about the same number of threads showing. I then reinstalled the little short fronmt drive shaft...the one that comes out of the transfer case. I got the front of it on to the pinion output on the front diff...and then had to reattach it to the transfer case end which, by the way an interesting affair with a sort of metal cone that is attached by 6 8mm fine threaded bolts about 2.5 or 3 inches long. Got all that done with much grunting an groaning - I'm laying on the ground - SO the oil, leak is fixed but now ...
There is a vibration at around 40 mph and higher. like something is out of balance. did i damage the front diff pinion bearing by using an impact wrench? this vibration occurs in 2 wheel drive. as i understand it the front drive shaft doesn't even turn when in 2 wheel drive. my question is does the front diff gears spin when in 2 wheel drive? perhaps the u-joint is bad on the front drive shaft? just a bit baffled. when the speed drops to below 40mph the vibration goes away...
I bought a 99 ranger few months ago cant the 4x4 has not worked in the truck for about 4 years. Bought it off my dad. He hasn't figured it out the t case locks in the drive shaft spins but hubs will not lock in. Has new hubs in it and still not working. Trying to get it fixed so I can park the diesel for the winter and run the ranger.
View 3 RepliesI have a Toyota Yaris '07 ... The car has been running pretty rough and ready over the last few weeks... During idle, it started rattling & shaking pretty hard... this progressed with the add-on feature of changing revs during an otherwise steady drive..... It chose the (in)opportune time of driving with our 3-year-old son, grumpy at that time, down heavily trafficked busy roadways during the holidays and stalled 3 x times.... It is in the garage/service center for the 2nd time ... They are stumped. They've checked air, fuel mix, filters, injectors, spark plugs, etc., basics. Computer diagnostics show nothing (briefly showed fault at Cylinder #4 but then that changed and now showing nothing). Toyota Technical is (apparently) stumped. They are talking about needing to order a new computer from Japan (minimum $1200 just for the part).
View 9 Replies