Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2007 - Further Back Seat Adjustment Than Actual?
Oct 27, 2013
I have a 2007 Ranger XLT 2 Door Extracab and have a question about the seats in this vehicle. I'm a 6' 1" guy and have long legs. I've lamented how little travel the seats (esp the drivers seat) has. Since I have long legs I have the seat as far back as it apparently goes. On long trips, this becomes exceedingly uncomfortable. To top it off, I had a knee injury recently and the range of motion of my knees are less than normal, making it impossible to drive the truck with the limited ability to move the seat further back.. My question is: Is there a way to get the seat to go further back, without extensive engineering work? I've noticed this seems to be a Ford thing as my wife's 2012 Escape has the same problem.
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When using the power lumbar adjustment in the seat back of my wifes 08 eddie bauer explorer, it stopped moving and I now hear a snapping / popping noise from the seat back. Is there any way to remove leather seat cover to check out what might have come loose or broke?
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My buddy has a 97 Ranger 4X4 Automatic. The gear selector has become out of adjustment. To get the truck started you have to pull up on it (the gear selector) and it is getting worse by the drive. I think it is going to leave him stranded in the near future if it is not bought back in to adjustment.
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My 93' Ranger XLT extra cab 2wd, 4.0 engine and A4LD auto tranny with 126,600 miles has a rough downshift into 2nd gear about 15 or 16 mph. Down shift to 1st is real smooth and upshifting thru the gears is smooth. I just put a new modulator valve on it and upshifts smooth out, they were getting to be hard shifts before changing that valve. I do not know if there is any adjustment that can be made to smooth out the rough downshift when slowing down to a stop for red light. The U-joins are in good shape and new carrier bearing assembly on driveshaft and no extra play in the rear end. A band adjustment maybe or just have to live with it.
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My 2007 Prius drivers seat height adjustment is not keeping steady. That means when it's adjusted to the highest level slowly it comes down after couple of days.
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The headrest of back seat will bend over when fold down the seat. But one of the headrests can't go back to original up position. The dealer has adjusted the cable but this just temporarily fixed the problem. The problem is back again. I will go back to dealer but can they really fix it? Should I ask for a replacement of the whole seat?
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Driver's seat is stuck in partial recline mode. It goes down, but won't come back up...
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I have a 94 Ranger XLT with the sport seats that have the power lumbar and power bolsters.
The truck is getting a little "long in the tooth" but the interior is like new.
I have a chance to pick up a 2001 Ranger XLT with 50k miles that is in great shape but has the standard seats.
I don't know if the sport seats were available in 2001 but if the correct holes are in the floorpan for the 1994 sport seat setup?
I'm sure I can wire up the power for the seats in the newer truck and it would be nice to have the more comfy seats.
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When I get over 45MPH, I notice a whop, whop sound. It speeds up as my speed increases. I have had the tires check and rebalanced, but that wasn't it. I have tried just revving the engine when in neutral, but I don't hear the noise. Could it be u-joints, or is there something else?
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I recently bought a 2003 Ford Ranger. What I want to do is unhook the seat belt chime. In the past with the other 3 Rangers I owned I unplugged it from under the seat. But when I unplugged this one the light for the air bag stayed on. I like the freedom to choose and I don't care for the chime.
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1999 ford ranger 2X4 manual trans. My back up lights work sometimes and sometimes not.
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I bought a set of Ranger seats for my 1957 Ford project. My question is the drivers side seat reclining mechanism is broke. I believe the seats are out of an STX or sport model, they have a slide out bolster and power lumbar and side bolsters.
Where to get a replacement mechanism. The mechanism works the handle is busted off. It is from an extra cab so the handle is a two way for the driver and or if anyone in the back wanted to use it. I think they may be from a 1992, only say this because I had one backin the day with these kind of seats.
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i have a 02 ranger 4by4 with 4.0.every time i try to fuel the pu it spits gas back out the fill tube and i have to fill it very slow to get fuel in it.i just replaced the filler neck about 6 mos ago due to having a hole in the the hose by the local ford dealer,
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Got a 1986 Ranger 2.3 EFI 5 speed that I have owned since it was almost new and will never let it go. 290,000 mls and still running strong "except". Noticed the last couple of months that when I start it cold it fires right off. If I start it hot it always takes 3 tries and always goes on the third try except....on occasion it will not start at all. It is random and after I let it cool a bit (about 30 min) it will start. Over the years I have replace many of the fuel system components (fuel tank pump, high press. pump, inline filter and canister filter, fuel press regulator) but wondering what else might be the problem.
I put a pressure tester on it the other day and when I selected the key to start the pump would spool up to build pressure and shut off. The press gauge would register that but the pressure would immediately go back to zero. After start up it would hold a constant 30psi at all rpm,s. Shut the engine off and pressure drops right down to zero. Shouldn't the system hold pressure for at least a while after shut down? Could this be the problem with my sluggish starts? What would be the normal fuel pressure? Can't seem to find it in my Haynes manual. Once running it runs great.
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I was driving my 85 2.3 liter down the road and it died all of a sudden like and wont start back up. I took out a plug to check for spark and had someone turn it over and I touched it to the big metal part the grill connects to at the top but I got nothing. It IS getting gas. The spark plug was white as if it was really hot and rough-looking for its relative newness. I bought a new distributor cap because it was corroded, but it didnt work. They tested the ignition module at the store and its good, so I am thinking distributor?? Also, could compression issues keep it from sparking? I am a little worried it got over-heated somehow, but don't know....
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Background - I just got done changing a few things... Exhaust Manifold/gasket, battery cables, valve cover gasket, oil cooler gasket and hoses, power steering pump and hoses, and ball joints. Most of this has nothing to do with the issue that came up as I am driving it back to return it to her.
While out on the freeway, I initially notice subtle power losses and surges. These quickly escalate into almost total power loss with back firing, sputtering and much more noticeable surges in power. The check engine light was turning off then on a few times before pretty much deciding to stay on.
So I nurse it back home on back roads due to its inability to maintain freeway speeds. I proceed to check everything I touched paying special attention to the exhaust manifold and surrounding area. The new manifold came from the j/y and was barely used so I had initially just stuck with the O2 sensor that came with it; I changed this to the one the vehicle had previously been employing as it was not exhibiting these symptoms until after the job was done. I also double checked all the hoses, intake tube, wires and connectors; everything is connected.
From here, I research the method of pulling codes on OBD-1 vehicles by making the check engine light flash. It flashed a 111 and a 172 at the same time; the information I could find said the 111 means everything is normal, and the 172 suggested O2 or MAF. I am reasonably sure the O2 is not the problem so I focused on the MAF. Disconnecting it while running seemed to improve the way it idled so via the process of deduction, which also included the consideration of typical symptoms of MAF sensor failure, I proceeded to replacing the MAF sensor which amounted to little improvement.
At this moment in time the check engine light has not returned but it is clearly not in a drive-able state of being. It actually seems to have ever so slightly improved though.
Additionally, the symptoms only exist when the engine is hot and has been driven; it drives normally for 5-10 minutes until it gets to operating temperature then it starts to crap out. After changing the MAF sensor, I let it idle for 20 minutes and it was fine until about 2 minutes into the test drive.
Speculation - I am thinking spark plugs could also be a culprit as its has been forever since a tune-up but the sudden onset of this condition make me doubt this a little; it also has 8 plugs so even if one or two crapped out it should still run better than this I would think.
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I noticed the passenger side on/off switch for the airbag doesn't illuminate anymore on my 98 Ranger. Whether I turn the key on the switch to on or off it doesn't illuminate either way. The airbag light on the dash flashes showing, counting a code 27 and then it stays on. I also noticed the seat belts on symbol doesn't illuminate and in the owner's manual it says it should illuminate and chime. I remember it use to illuminate but I don't remember a chime.
Someone with a 98 that has a seat belt reminder light that illuminates and chimes until you fasten the seat belt? I don't know if that and the airbag code is related. But I want to fix both? I guess the simplest one to tackle first would be the seat belt light/chime. I don't see a fuse for it. I guess I need to know first is it really suppose to chime.
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2000, 2.5L standard transmission. IAC replaced about 2 years ago, DPFE sensor and vacuum hoses replaced early last summer. Truck has been running just fine until I washed it last night. Went to work, and when coming to a stop and pressing in the clutch, engine starts to race without coming back to idle. Had to turn the truck off in order to get the engine from racing. Same thing on the way home. What else can/should I be looking at? I did not open the hood to wash the engine off, so it can't be water from the wash.
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Which one is the ect? One is the ect and one is a switch for something?
Just gone done switching that POS plastic thermostat housing thing, both sensors were replaced not sure which one is throwing the code.
I have cleared the code and it keeps coming back.
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i just rebuilt the motor in my 2002 ford ranger 3.0 and it wont start it cranks over but back fires and bucks alot. took the plugs out and it gets spark and fuel. when it sparks it sparks like multiple times.
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I am working on a 96 Mazda b2300 auto 2wd for a friend. His son was driving it when a loud noise, it died and wouldn't start back up. He had it towed to my house, I started to tear into to it and found it slipped the timing belt. So a rebuilt head, gaskets, timing belt, fuel injectors, water pump, thermostat, plugs, and fluids; tried to start it and nothing. Started troubleshooting and found the primary coil pack was out of spec, replaced and still nothing.
Changed out the CKPS still nothing? I have spark, I have fuel, I'm going to check compression tomorrow but the way the cylinders and pistons looked I don't think that is the issue but I going to check anyway, rechecked the timing marks they all lined up. Checked the fuel inertia switch not tripped. Could the PCM, or ICM cause a no start, and still be able to get spark and fuel?
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