Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2007 - AC Stopped Cooling / Fan Blows Hard
Sep 19, 2014
I have a 2007 Ranger with the 3.0L engine. It has about 70,000 miles on it, and generally runs just fine.
This morning, the A/C stopped cooling. It was working fine on my way home last night, and simply does not cool today. There is no water underneath the motor when the idling while parked, so the compressor is apparently either not working, or not running at all. The fan blows hard, and the heat works. Just no cooling.
What are the possible and most likely causes of this? How much will it likely cost to have fixed? Also, when I was looking underneath the truck today, I noticed that the differential seems to be leaking a little. Is that an expensive problem?
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Seems like the temp control on the dash isnt hooked up....with just the heat on...temp doesn't change....stays hot. if i turn the temp to the blue side its still hot. the AC on it blows hot air....Max AC its cool. AC compressor is working fine.
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I have a 2002 Ford Ranger 3.0L truck that, all of a sudden, has a problem with the HVAC system that blows air only thru the defrost vents even when selecting any other vent levels (defrost, face/middle or floor levels).
I did find a thread on another forum regarding this problem, only it was for the 95-01 Ranger model years, yet they say that the 2002 Ranger is not the same as those earlier models.
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My wife got off work tonight and went to start up our 2001 Ranger XLT, it starts, but wont stay running unless she puts the gas pedal down, it is also blowing white smoke from the exhaust and she says it sounds like it is missing, sputters and dies when she takes foot of gas.
No previous symptoms, ran perfect this morning, no loss of power all day, no smoke no sputtering and no check engine light. Any clue as to what it is. I have heard head gasket and O2 sensor.
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So I did alot of electrical work on this truck but never had any problems with the brake lights, now they dont work and the fuse blows every time you pop one in.
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I have a 1999 Ranger 4x4 4.0 5 speed step side...in Jalapeno no less. Anyway, for the past 5 years or so the check engine light has been on. When it came on I did nothing because nothing seemed to change and I was too broke to fix it anyway. Well, just lately the check engine light has started to flicker or go out completely.
When this happens the truck seems sluggish and the A/C will stop working. As long as the check engine light is ON the truck runs like it always has, when it goes off the issues start. If I am stopped with the clutch depressed the idle will drop down to 500 rpms or so.
Kinda hoping it is something I can fix or at least learn about so I can have an intelligent conversation with a mechanic.
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I have a 91 Ranger that the A/C was working great in but all of a sudden it stopped working even the fan. I turned it of and back on and it started again but then just stopped for good I can get the fan to work sometime, but no cold air. What it might be?
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I have '90 Ford Ranger 2wd standard cab long bed. A few days ago the speedo stopped working. What is the more likely cause? The gauge itself or a relay/cable. And if it is the cable/relay are they hard to remove & replace.
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2000 ranger 3.0 auto 4wd hard to shift. Are the cables known to stretch?
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My brother has a 99 ranger with the 4.0 engine and factory tow package. After installing a rebuilt engine the brake lights do not work and the turn signals will blink both sides like flashers. Lights on the truck work fine. What connections may be hooked up wrong or where to start looking for the problem.
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I think the time is near for a new clutch in my 98 Ranger, 2wd/ 5 spd. How tough of a job is this? I've changed the one in my 66 Mustang years ago but things were less complicated then.
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I own a 2003 3.o v-6 ranger, after a short or long drive, my truck has a hard time starting.. Starts fine before any driving..
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I bought a 2003 Ford Ranger, 2.3, 5 speed manual. It is hard to shift after it warms up. I test drove it when it was below freezing, so I didn't notice it at first. The warmer the day and quicker the truck warms up, the worse it is. It goes into gear with no problem when the engine is off or if I'm still moving, but if I'm stopped there are times it is hard to get into gear. This really sounded like a clutch that wasn't fully disengaging to me, so I decided to pull it apart. I didn't check the movement at the slave before I started, but I did find the master was a little wet at the rod in the cab.
So, I did the following:
- New clutch master cylinder (system bled out of truck to eliminate air)
- New slave cylinder and bearing
- New pilot bearing
- Changed transmission fluid - Mercon III ATF
I inspected the clutch/pressure plate and it was in good shape and looked like it might have had 10K - 20K miles on it. The last owner said it was recently replaced and it looked it. So, I put it back in. After I was done, I checked the movement at the slave/pressure plate and it is moving about 3/8" - 1/2" when the pedal is down. I was happy and thought this would solve the problem since the old pilot bearing seemed stiff and I saw the leak on the back of the master cylinder.
I drove it and all felt fine at first, but it was a cool day and I didn't drive it that long. When it was warmer over the next couple of days, it started getting hard to shift again. It's not been quite as bad as before, but still doesn't shift right.
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It's a 4 cylinder 5 speed, and once or twice a day when the light turns green and I go to put it in low gear, it just doesn't want to go into gear easy. It's like the syncro isn't happy or something. The clutch is depressed all the way and not dragging.
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I'm working on a 1992 ranger with the 2.3l. Hard start almost every time, sometimes have to hold throttle open sometimes not. Won't start at all this morning. When it does finally start it takes a while for it to start firing on the intake side plugs. Haven't had time to check fuel pressure yet but can hear pump cycle when key is switched on.
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I have a 2002 ford ranger edge. swb, 3.0L, 5spd. I have been noticing it is getting harder to shift gears, put in 1st at a stop light lately. There is no grinding just seems harder to engage. Checked fluid level and it is clean and full. Recently i have developed a vibration under power. Let off the gas and smooth as can be, apply throttle and starts vibrating. Not sure if flywheel is "hot spotted" or perhaps broke a spring on pressure disk. Just seems odd it's only under throttle. Yes already checked rear end and U-joints.
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1995 ranger 4,0 4x4... when started up, wipers go 2 times and then stop, but cant turn on again, also blower and 4WD stopped work....
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I recently got a pretty cherry 98 Ranger 3.0 2wd extended cab auto. So far all it has needed was wiper blades, floor mats and a heater blend door. Last week my daughter informed me that the flashers and the turn signals stopped working. I looked for blown fuses and then took the low road and just bought a new flasher (my alldatadiy manual showed that the flasher was common to the turn signals and the hazard flashers so I took a shot at just throwing a part at it). That didn't fix it or else. Any pointers?
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I have a 99 ranger 4x4 4.0 V6 with 200K miles..I just had the slave cylinder replaced and bled however, it is still hard to get into gear and when at a stop light with the clutch pedal pushed in all the way the truck tries to move forward as if its in gear. I took it back to the shop and the mechanic says that the hydraulic system is working as it should and the problem could only be the pilot bushing failing and causing the trans to partially engage. The clutch and previous slave cyl only had 25K before the slave cyl failed and started leaking!!
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My 2000 ranger in 4x4 high never did this. And in 2wd it doesn't pull at all...
When in 4x4 high it pulls hard to the left ?????? is left not working? It has automatic hubs ...
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1997 Ranger extended cab, 222k mi., 4 cyl, standard transmission. Shifting got worse until it finally died and the mechanic replaced the clutch "kit" and slave cylinder.
It still fights back going into 1st, 2nd, and reverse. But it is intermittent. If I put it in neutral, depress the clutch, and start the vehicle, then, after a few seconds wait, when I try to go into 1st (or reverse), it fights me back, forcing me to pause and apply about twice the pressure I should need to go into gear. When I go forward in 1st, and am ready to shift to 2nd, it fights back so that I have to pause just a bit and apply more pressure than I should for it to go into 2nd gear. 3rd, 4th, and overdrive are FINE. Also, the clutch seems to disengage about halfway down, where I was expecting it to disengage after only 10 -20% depression.
The mechanic doesn't see the problem (or won't admit it). Is there an adjustment to make the clutch disengage with only 10-20% depression instead of the 50%? Is that something I should be worrying about?
Is there some other problem? Like maybe the synchromesh mechanism in the transmission itself not bringing the transmission rotor to engine speed soon enough (wear on the synchromesh)?
When it was new, it went into ALL gears with ease, no fighting back, and it starrted doing this after about 150k miles. Now, at 222k mi., even with a new clutch, plate, throughout bearing, and slave cylinder, it still seems partially stuck going into 1st, 2nd, and reverse.
I just don't want to start replacing things until I can get a correct diagnosis as to what is causing the problem.
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