Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2006 XLT - Vibrating Hard / Rough Idling - CEL Is On Solid And Not Flashing
Feb 20, 2016
I have a 2006 Ranger XLT 3.0 that is vibrating hard/rough idling, cel is on (solid, not flashing), has trouble accelerating with pedal punched. Will sometimes get a sudden burst when pedal is punched with rpms going up but most of the time no to slow raise of rpms with pedal engaged. Hooked code reader up to it and read ignition coil. Replaced the coil and changed plugs and wires. Truck still not running right. what gives? Is this a fuel pump, cats clogged, cylinder issue?
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backed out of the garage fine later in the day went to put it away started hard would not idle and only rev to 2500 .cleaned map sensor,egg valve tested and it works.cleaned the IAC and that works ,fuel pressure is 58psi. starts hard it would idle now it doesn't dies, no code . with 58psi could the pump still be bad? it has 18 pounds of vacuum. where is the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator on the motor?
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Ok, I replaced the head gaskets on this truck a couple years back and now I am having symptoms similar to the ones I was having then. I am not entirely convinced that this is what is wrong however.
Symptoms:
Truck was idling rough until it warmed up
Truck takes forever to warm up or simply does not warm up
If/when it warms up it operates at higher than normal temp/almost overheats(it hasn't overheated yet)
Heater blows very cold air
White smoke(has been cold outside so not sure if due to temp or coolant)
Overflow bubbled when I shut the truck off, but it has only happened once so far
I am kind of at a loss, but like I said am suspicious of the head gaskets.
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1990 Ranger 2.3L 4 cylinder. The truck idles so rough it dies. It runs fine going down the road it just seems to "load up" at idle. I know there are hundreds of things that it could be, I just hate to start throwing parts at it. It is definitely running rich at idle.
It is one of those trucks that we have replaced a lot of parts. The scan tool said something about setting the timing??? Is there a way to set the timing? There is no distributor, and it is the one with 2 coils and 8 plugs.
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Finally back able to start working on the Ranger and have a few questions.
When I got this thing back from my son it was running rough. I've fixed all the codes it was getting so no luck there now. Not sure how to explain it but, it feels like it is cutting back when driving at a steady speed and it idles rough. Not really like a miss but more like a hesitation when driving.
I've cleaned the MAP and IAC and changed the fuel filter. I also pulled the plugs and they looked good. My son installed new plugs and wires but he used the E3's and not sure how, or if, you're suppose to set the gap. I haven't checked the PCV yet because haven't figured out how exactly you get it out without pulling the intake.
So, where to look next? I'm kind of thinking the cam sensor but think I'll leave that to a shop sense I want the shaft replaced at the same time.
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I have a 99 Ranger, 3.0 xlt 2WD Automatic 5r55e(???) tranny (i know its the 5). I have the o/d off light flashing. It comes on when fluid gets to op temp. When on it shifts hard into 2nd and hard when it downshifts. No slipping. I have had the truck in the tranny shop for 3 weeks, owner said he re built valve body gasket (didnt work) tried 3 diff used tranny's (didn't work) or so he says. He said it needs to be rebuilt.
I have searched up and down for what it could be, there is so much out there, it only confused me more. If i have to rebuild i will, i think the tranny shop was pulling my leg (for more reasons than mentioned). I have a check engine light on nothing to do with tranny...there is a tranny code, he would not tell me but i will have it checked. Been told could be throttle position sensorl, speed sensor cracked case and a million other things. I have some mechanical abilities, (not too much w/ tranny's) but i can change a few simple sensors.
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2003 Ranger FX4 Flareside
4.0
Automatic
145,000 Miles
Here's my issue: My Ranger has been running like a dream until yesterday.
I took off on a parts run for my sons Ranger. I got to a stop sign and as I stopped, it started missing and barely running. I nursed it back home and checked the flashing CEL. It was giving me a misfire on #3.
Since I had been planning on changing the plugs and wires, I dove in and got it done hoping that was the cause of the misfire.
Started it up, same thing. I went to the next obvious item: coil. Replace it, still running like crap. Gave up for the night.
Today, I thought I would dig in using the tips here on the forum. Did the spray down...no errant spark anywhere. Tested fuel pressure: 65psi no drop in pressure on acceleration.
Started pulling wires off the coil one by one. Four of the wires resulted in running worse. 2 had no effect. #3 and #6. The coil was producing plenty of spark on all 6 ports.
At this point I was sure it had to be 2 bad injectors. Since I couldn't get injectors tonight, I moved them around after cleaning them a bit and tried my wire test again. The problem stayed on the back 2 cylinders!?!
I tested for voltage on the back injector plugs and I am getting voltage. I also used a stethoscope to listen to all of the injectors. The back 2 seem to remain silent. I have also unhooked the battery for 20 minutes to reset the PCM. Still missing and running rough....
Here's a list of what I have done:
Autolite Double Platinum APP5144 plugs. .062 gap
Autolite Pro Series wires #97051
BDW E97P Coil
New air filter
What should I do next? I really don't know where to go next.......
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I am having a problem with my O/D light flashing and my truck shifting hard. Just started out of the blue. After reading a few other topics, I am hoping it is the VSS. Now if only I could find the dang thing. Looking for a diagram, or detailed description on where it's at?
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I have a 03 ranger with a v6/auto trans. it drives fine around town. after i get on the freeway the overdrive light will start flashing. when i get off the freeway it will shift extremely rough. if i turn the truck off and right back on it will be fine again. What could be the problem?
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I have posted on here before about this very issue, thinking it was primarily the transmission. In additon to a hard upshift/downshift (it almost feels like getting a little "kick" from behind while in the truck) I was getting a flashing O/d light, etc.
Since then the tranny died. No shifting at all. I was able to find a usable replacement from another truck (the guy sideswipped a pole, and decided he was done with it, as he tweaked the front frame slightly), which was working fine (before the accident).
I swapped the units out (trans and T/C), and the truck has life again! No flashing O/D light, nice power, and good gas mileage (I went from pre-failure 15mpg to 20mpg now).
However, the kick has never gone away.
So, what next? How much "play" should there be in the driveshaft when the vehicle is parked? I can move it a little bit. Should I consider servicing/replacing the U-joints? Or should I now suspect the rear diff to be the culprit, and how can I best determine this?
Also, can you switch out one rear end for another? If you can, is there any any paricular one that is better to use for towing/hauling as opposed to, let's say, off-roading or city driving?
As for the vehicle in question, it's a 1995 Ranger XLT extended cab with a 3.0V6 and auto trans. I believe it's supposed to have a limited-slip diff, but how do I determine this?
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I have a 98 ranger with 2.5 and 225k mostly trouble free miles. This engine has never used a drop of oil and ran good. In Dec 3 miles from work started running poorly and sounded to knock the more I asked for power. The CEL started flashing I made it to work and it idled rough but more rpms smoothed out. Took it to mechanic says he did a compression check with little or no compression on #1 & #2. #3 & #4 fine must have broke rings. Doesn't seem right to lose 2 cylinders at the same time out of the blue. Could anything else be causing these symptoms or time for a heart transplant? He hasn't opened anything up yet.
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My 3.0 with 216k miles has developed a rough idle and it progressively got better with new parts and cleanings. On startup it revs up to 2k then back down to 600. If I let it idle for about 8 or so minutes my Check Engine Light starts flashing. If I drive about for a little bit it stops and is just fine.
While the light is flashing I get codes P1000, P0305, P0306, and P0316. Which are OBDII Monitor Testing Not Complete, Misfire detected in Cyl 5, Misfire detected in Cyl 6 and Engine Misfire Detected on Startup (First 1000 Revolutions) respectively. Any other time the truck runs like a dream. Gets 20 city and 29.5 highway.
I cleaned my Mass Air Flow, replaced my Idle Air Control, SeaFoamed throttle body and vacuum lines, brand new coil pack, new wires, new plugs, new fuel filter, I've only ever run 91 octane, Chevron with Techron goes in at every oil change and B12 every other and I just ran 3 bottles of Lucas fuel injector cleaner.
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Been awhile since I've been able to post but I've got a serious issue with my 2006 Ranger XLT 4L V6. So last night about 2 miles from home my check engine light started flashing like it was a at a rave and my engine wasn't acting right, also had the STRONG odor of raw gas, no other lights from the dash, no fluids leaking, oil was good n nothing in radiator but coolant. Was able to baby it to my current home but all my tools are in storage so had to wait to get my ODB scanner to see what's up. Scan came back as 'cylinder #3 misfire' & 'O2 sensor reading rich'.
Go cylinder #3 spark plug out and it were fouled bad. Got ride to the store and got a whole new set. Got back n got'em changed and fired ut up, idle still rough and check engine started flashing again and white cloud coming from exhaust pipe and STRONG odor of gas. Check and now have 'multiple missfire', 'cylinder #2 misfire' and 'cylinder #3 misfire'.
Shut it down go and double check ALL spark plug wires are connected and TRY to start, get about a turn n a half then starter spin. Try again and the engine won't even turn over. "Great I've seized the engine!" Was able to put a socket on the crankshaft pully and manually turn the engine over "whew didn't seize the engine", did this a couple of times and tried to start, was rough but eventually it fired up, still idling rough and again check engine light flashing, while it was running I pulled one plug wire at a time from the coilpack to see/feel the lighting and there was spark for the 3 I pulled, didn't affect engine idle.
Run codes and 'cylinder #3 misfire', so now that the engine is was warmed up I pulled out my ohm meter and started checking wire resistance. Cylinders #1, #2 were at .012, #3 was .011 and #5 was .009.
I've figured that the raw gas is due to cylinder #3 not burning and just pushing gas into the exhaust. So to the brass tacks, do I invest in a new set of wires? Or could it be the injector being stuck open and just flooding the cylinder? No when I originally pulled the #3 plug fuel did not spill out. Haven't pulled #3 again due to it being May in Arizona and had to take a break. I'm going on the assumption that the engine wouldn't start after a short run do to "hydraulic lock in cylinder #3", my manually turning the engine over cleared this and allowed the engine to start.
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2001 Ranger Edge 3.0. Like the title says, when I start my ranger it idles really rough. If I give it gas it shudders like it's gonna die. After about 2-3 minutes it smooths out. If I'm on the interstate and down shift to pass someone, while accelerating it feels like I have a misfire (no CEL given) not all the time though. I've changed plugs and wires and it stopped doing it so I thought I had it but, it continued a few days later. Then I changed the fuel filter and it stopped again for a few days. Well it's back again. I'm thinking it's the fuel pump but I wanted to check here before I take my truck bed off. I also checked for vac leaks and I'm all good there.
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I am currently working on a 97 ranger with a 4cyl and 5 speed. its having some idle issues that i cant seem to pin point, you can start it and it will idle rough then when you rev it up it chugs real hard then dies. used my scan tool and all the sensors are good, fuel pressure is good, good compression, all 8 plugs are firing good and no codes. The other deal that has me a little confused is when I unhook the hose that runs from the air intake tube to the valve cover, I get a lot of vacuum at that port on the valve cover that the hose hooks to. Also when I plug it and pull the dipstick, I get vacuum at the dipstick tube. never seen this before but at the same time I've only messed with very few of these trucks so I don't know whats normal.
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i i am having trouble getting the quick connect on the slave cylinder to go back in i just pulled the entire transmission and replaced the clutch and now when i try to put the quick connect fitting in the slave it is rock solid and will not go in at all
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I have a 2001 Ranger 4.0L 4x4 with 101,000 miles on it. I went to go get in it the other day and the Air Bag Light came on out of the blue. I've drove it some since and it is still on. The light blinks for about 1 minute upon startup and then stays on solid for the remainder of the trip. What would make this come on so suddenly and is there anything I can do/check?
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I have a 2006 Ford Ranger with the 3.0L v6. The check engine light came on and the code it is blowing is a P0171. It runs rough at idle or when I let off the accelerator and "fine" at speed.
The code told me to check/clean the MAF which I have done. Next on the list that I saw was the PCV valve. I disconnected the electrical to it and then disconnected the hose. Some oil poured out of it... not a lot but some... The valve still seems free, it clicks when I rotate/shake it and I can blow through it (I know, highly scientific). I can replace this (if I can find it, Napa and Advanced Auto don't have a part that looks like it...) but I'm wondering what else could be wrong.
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I have a 3.0 Ranger, AT 2WD, from 2001 with 175K miles on it. I have a CEL on, with Misfire cylinder #5.
Also when the truck is cold and I step on the gas, it seems to run on like 3 cylinder for 2-3seconds and then it somehow fixes itself and runs great until it warms up.
After it warms up, it shakes violently at idle. The shaking goes completely away once I'm past 1200 rpm or while driving. What I tried so far:
- All new Motorcraft filters (Air, fuel)
- Motorcraft Plugs
- Motorcraft Wires
- Motorcraft Coil
- Ran thru two cans of SeaFoam
- Checked injector resistance
- "Reset" the ECU
- Cleaned MAF sensor
- Cleaned IAC
What else I need to check?
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The rear axle in my dads 1998 ford ranger has been vibrating for quite a while so I pulled the cover today and found that the fluid was full of metal shavings, it was glittering. I also found this metal chunk in the differential so my mechanical experience tells me this is not a good thing. I am taking it apart tomorrow any tips or do's or don't? Also, what this metal chunk is and what that knurled up end is??
Door tag told me it was a 7.5 open 4:10 axle.
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My 88 2.9 ranger keeps heating up badly while idling. Was waiting in the drive-thru at Wendy's and it was taking them longer than usual, the temp guage started climbing closer and closer to 'H'.. I revved it up a bit to a fast idle (1500-2000rpm) and it did not work much... figured the gauge was being screwy. But when i finally got my food and started moving the truck was pinging..it really was hot..
But as soon as I got her moving at a steady 40mph, engine cooled back down to normal temp as if nothing ever happened..i put an extra wide two row aluminum radiator from a 4.0 explorer in it, fan clutch is not very old, no coolant leaks that i can see.. can't figure out why it heats up so much so fast at idle. Not enough air or coolant flow?
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