2006 ranger v6 3.0L mfi .. an I switch to 85 octane? it's not a flex fuel vehicle. would there be any problems doing this? I guess if they use it at high altitudes like Denver then there would not be any harm using it at sea level as long as the engine doesn't ping with predetonation.
View 9 RepliesI looked for any tips on changing the coolant in my '06 2.3L Ranger but found nada. How to best / easiest way to drain the coolant from this little rig? Is there any need to worry about bleeding any captured air in the system once I go to refill the system?
View 11 RepliesMy 2.3L Ranger experiences a drawn out 2-3 shift but only does it once in a while. On my drive to work it might do it at 1 of 10 stop/go and the other times it's perfect. It really seams to do it more when it's cold???? I know it's an electronic shift trans so my guess is because it's intermittent it's getting a false signal from somewhere - maybe? All of the other shifts are fine, it just happens 2-3. It has the correct fluid in the trans and is new.
View 10 RepliesLittle back story, truck sat up for 2 years. Had 1/2 tank of gas in it that time. I had to do a complete motor swap. I been driving for past couple of days. Had it stall on me while I was waiting on wife to come out of store. Thought it was just bad gas. Today I was heading to town and had to slam on brakes and it started to stall again. It shut off. I cranked it back up and it runs fine till I start slowing down. then it wants to die.
I can keep my foot on gas petal and little and it will stay running. I got to where I was heading and put it in park and it idled fine for a few seconds and then I could hear a whine from the fuel tank. Sounds like the fuel was having a hard time, like it was fighting the pressure build.
Thing is It cranks right back up and drives fine as long as I dont come to quick stop or set idling for a few seconds. I can hear the pump straining, so I am assuming that when I keep my foot on gas a little the pressure is staying lower and not as much is being bypassed and the pump is fine. I think the pump is on its way out but wanted to hear what yall think.
I do have a brand new IAC valve that I bought and did not get a chance to use on the blown motor.
In my 2006 Ranger XLT, 4.0L V6, 2WD Manual; I am getting vibration from what appears to be the passenger front. I have so far replaced the front wheel bearings (both sides), replaced front shocks and checked rear shocks, rotated tires (to see if it changed) and had front tires balanced. I've also had a friend follow me on the freeway and check the wheel to see if is bouncing, wheel appears to be glued to the road. I have done all the front suspension checks I can and find no indications it is the lower ball joints or tie-rod ends.
This vibration is very in consistant, in different lanes it is better/worse. At times I feel it more in the steering wheel, others my seat and at times the gear shift. I don't believe it to be the engine mount(s) cause when it is vibrating I can shift into netural and the vibration does not change, I have also performed the 5K rev (FORD maitn. manual) and the engine is smooth (along with my expierence with bad mounts in my '94).
I have a 2006 2.3 ranger motor runs fine at idle and as I ride down the road the motor just cuts off. If I pump gas it will take off again and in 3 miles it will do it again. After 20 miles running good it will cut off again. Replaced coil pack, fuel pump, Cam sensor, Idle control sensor! What else could be causing this?
View 3 RepliesBeen awhile since I've been able to post but I've got a serious issue with my 2006 Ranger XLT 4L V6. So last night about 2 miles from home my check engine light started flashing like it was a at a rave and my engine wasn't acting right, also had the STRONG odor of raw gas, no other lights from the dash, no fluids leaking, oil was good n nothing in radiator but coolant. Was able to baby it to my current home but all my tools are in storage so had to wait to get my ODB scanner to see what's up. Scan came back as 'cylinder #3 misfire' & 'O2 sensor reading rich'.
Go cylinder #3 spark plug out and it were fouled bad. Got ride to the store and got a whole new set. Got back n got'em changed and fired ut up, idle still rough and check engine started flashing again and white cloud coming from exhaust pipe and STRONG odor of gas. Check and now have 'multiple missfire', 'cylinder #2 misfire' and 'cylinder #3 misfire'.
Shut it down go and double check ALL spark plug wires are connected and TRY to start, get about a turn n a half then starter spin. Try again and the engine won't even turn over. "Great I've seized the engine!" Was able to put a socket on the crankshaft pully and manually turn the engine over "whew didn't seize the engine", did this a couple of times and tried to start, was rough but eventually it fired up, still idling rough and again check engine light flashing, while it was running I pulled one plug wire at a time from the coilpack to see/feel the lighting and there was spark for the 3 I pulled, didn't affect engine idle.
Run codes and 'cylinder #3 misfire', so now that the engine is was warmed up I pulled out my ohm meter and started checking wire resistance. Cylinders #1, #2 were at .012, #3 was .011 and #5 was .009.
I've figured that the raw gas is due to cylinder #3 not burning and just pushing gas into the exhaust. So to the brass tacks, do I invest in a new set of wires? Or could it be the injector being stuck open and just flooding the cylinder? No when I originally pulled the #3 plug fuel did not spill out. Haven't pulled #3 again due to it being May in Arizona and had to take a break. I'm going on the assumption that the engine wouldn't start after a short run do to "hydraulic lock in cylinder #3", my manually turning the engine over cleared this and allowed the engine to start.
I have a 2006 Ranger 2.3l 4 cylinder that is have emissions problems the code the tech gave me was P2195 an I bought the o2 sensor just where it is, and the auto stores didn't have a manual for the year of my truck.
View 2 RepliesReplacing their door mirror with an aftermarket door mirror and not been happy with it?
I have a non-powered door mirror. if I understand my FoMoCo Workshop Manual correctly, I should be able to replace the exterior mirror glass without the need for a completely new mirror assembly.
So, last weekend the GF said she had been hearing a tick in her 2006 4L Ranger. I crawl up under it and see the right rear spark plug and wire vibrating and could tell it was loose. I jack it up, take the right front tire off, pull the liner back, and finally get a socket on the plug to tighten it. I tighten it by hand first the then the finale snug down with the ratchet.
I notice it snugged up but I just felt it was trying to slip so I stopped. Well, it lasted two days and now has fallen out again. It appears the head is stripped. I am going to pull the plug out tonight and see if I can see where the threads are stripped. I assume I will find material on the threads of the plug.
My question is, is there anyway for me to make a temp fix till there is time to pull the head and repair it properly? I saw NAPA used to have a kit for the Triton engine but when I went to their web site I couldn't even find that anymore.
I bought a used Ranger a couple months ago and it ran fine when I test drove it but a week later it started having a misfire every now and then at idle.. I must have gotten pretty unlucky with the test drives..
The misfire comes and goes, it will run fine for a week or two and then it will misfire at idle for a week or two. It only seems to misfire at idle, the truck runs rough/shakes but once you give it a little gas and start moving it goes away. Usually it has a check engine light on from startup when it's misfiring and it goes away on days that it's running fine; it will occasionally misfire at idle with no check engine light. Sometimes when its running really rough the CEL flashes while it's misfiring at idle and I've actually restarted it real quick and the misfire went away for a bit. The engine codes that come up are misfire on startup and misfire on cylinder 4.
I've tried cleaning the MAF sensor, replacing the fuel filter, testing for spark and compression. Compression was 150-155 PSI on all cylinders, however, the compression on cylinder 4 is different depending on whether the truck is running well or not. When it's misfiring the compression on cyl. 4 is 90 PSI and when it's running fine it's 150 PSI. I'm not sure what could be causing intermittent low compression like that?
I have a 2006 Ford Ranger with the 3.0L v6. The check engine light came on and the code it is blowing is a P0171. It runs rough at idle or when I let off the accelerator and "fine" at speed.
The code told me to check/clean the MAF which I have done. Next on the list that I saw was the PCV valve. I disconnected the electrical to it and then disconnected the hose. Some oil poured out of it... not a lot but some... The valve still seems free, it clicks when I rotate/shake it and I can blow through it (I know, highly scientific). I can replace this (if I can find it, Napa and Advanced Auto don't have a part that looks like it...) but I'm wondering what else could be wrong.
I have a 2006 Ranger XLT 3.0 that is vibrating hard/rough idling, cel is on (solid, not flashing), has trouble accelerating with pedal punched. Will sometimes get a sudden burst when pedal is punched with rpms going up but most of the time no to slow raise of rpms with pedal engaged. Hooked code reader up to it and read ignition coil. Replaced the coil and changed plugs and wires. Truck still not running right. what gives? Is this a fuel pump, cats clogged, cylinder issue?
View 4 RepliesI recently bought a 2006 Ranger with supposedly 110000 miles... I don't think I made a good deal... because I found the stabilizer end link in terrible shape which seems suspicious for this mileage in my personal opinion!? But this isn't the reason I am posting today... I have a serious breaking issue and I couldn't find explanation yet.
My ABS Light is on. When I slowly brake at low speed and when the brake is almost completely depressed... I hear a low humming sound, and the brake pedal seems to momentarily drop back just slightly. This also happens when I'm going down hill and breaking. For the most part, the car breaks, and it's only every 8th or 10th time braking that I experience this issue.
My guess is this is linked to the ABS... but I can't afford expensive service and need to resolve this on my own.
Just got a 2004 1.8T wagon, but it didn't have an owners manual. Do I need 91 octane? Is a VW dealer the only place for a spare key? Can you steer me to a catalog for bling (grille) and other mods?
View 12 RepliesWas wondering if there would be any negative effect on the performance (or engine) of my V8 Touareg if I start filling up with 90 Octane instead of the more expensive 93 Octane available locally in Puerto Rico. We only have 87, 90 and 93 Octane to choose from. There is a German warning label on the inside of the filler door that says something about 91 Octane. I don't read German, but I'm assuming that it means not to use anything lower than 91 Octane fuel.
View 9 RepliesI own a Lexus IS250 which on the gas cap says you must use high octane gas. My question is, do you REALLY have to use High octane everytime you gas up or can you safely use mid grade? Say every other time without damaging anything?
View 11 RepliesI am looking at an 05 Corolla with the 2zzge. I am wondering if can run regular gas in a pinch with octane booster? Some areas where I travel only have regular fuel.
View 1 RepliesI just recently brought my 2006 subaru outback (v6) to the shop. The men, whom I've know and trust, told me there's too much carbon in the engine - it's got 80k on it - and that I should use Super the next two times I fill the tank. I went to an Irving station and put in Premium Octane. I only put in 3 gallons, and now the gas jerks upon pressing the gas. The check engine light came on, the SPORTS light is blinking fast and the CRUISE light is blinking as well. It sounds bad and when I put it in/out of park, I hear a little bit of grinding. Is this common for putting in new higher quality gas? Am I destroying something?? Should I not have put in premium?
View 2 RepliesJust filled up with Shell V-Power 91 Octane Fuel for the first time in my MKVI Golf 2.5
I know 91 isn't needed in this car but I like filling up with good fuel every once in a while.
After filling up my check engine light came on right away, also my engine wont allow me to go over 3k RPM.
Why did this happen and what can I do to fix it?
I just changed my Oil, added a FRAM filter and bought some good Quakerstate High Mileage and my truck runs good. However, I noticed that my Check Oil light is constantly on. I also recently changed my Oil Sender, and I wonder if that has got something to do with it.
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