Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2006 - Intermittent Shifting Out 2 - 3
Jan 26, 2012
My 2.3L Ranger experiences a drawn out 2-3 shift but only does it once in a while. On my drive to work it might do it at 1 of 10 stop/go and the other times it's perfect. It really seams to do it more when it's cold???? I know it's an electronic shift trans so my guess is because it's intermittent it's getting a false signal from somewhere - maybe? All of the other shifts are fine, it just happens 2-3. It has the correct fluid in the trans and is new.
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I bought a used Ranger a couple months ago and it ran fine when I test drove it but a week later it started having a misfire every now and then at idle.. I must have gotten pretty unlucky with the test drives..
The misfire comes and goes, it will run fine for a week or two and then it will misfire at idle for a week or two. It only seems to misfire at idle, the truck runs rough/shakes but once you give it a little gas and start moving it goes away. Usually it has a check engine light on from startup when it's misfiring and it goes away on days that it's running fine; it will occasionally misfire at idle with no check engine light. Sometimes when its running really rough the CEL flashes while it's misfiring at idle and I've actually restarted it real quick and the misfire went away for a bit. The engine codes that come up are misfire on startup and misfire on cylinder 4.
I've tried cleaning the MAF sensor, replacing the fuel filter, testing for spark and compression. Compression was 150-155 PSI on all cylinders, however, the compression on cylinder 4 is different depending on whether the truck is running well or not. When it's misfiring the compression on cyl. 4 is 90 PSI and when it's running fine it's 150 PSI. I'm not sure what could be causing intermittent low compression like that?
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I just totally re-built the rear brakes in my 93 Ranger 2wd. Now its seems I have this 'intermittent vibration' between 90 to 105 km/h.
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My o/d has started shifting in and out at speeds over 50mph. It looks like it happens for the tiniest changes in engine loading. A windy day plays havoc and mild inclines. Sometimes the o/d light starts blinking until I switch off then operates normally. Extended warm-up driving seems to work. I've been told the rear axle speed sensor may be going bad but I have no confidence in the advice. I am driving an '02 ranger, 3L flex fuel, 2wd and just went over 100k. The atf is at the correct level but the fluid needs changing in my opinion. There are no engine codes.
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I have a 2001 Ranger edge edition with extended cab, 3.0L engine, auto tranny (I believe it is a 5R55E) with 95000 miles. I am currently having some rough shift problems going from 2 to 3 and 3 to 4. I had the transmission fluid exchanged and it solved the issue a little bit but it hasn't gone away. It seems to rev up a little then shift real rough. I have read hundreds of threads that talk about the Valve body gasket blowing out on these trucks so I was wondering if this description matches that fix (The OD light does not flash when this happens).
I had to have the PCM replaced right after I bought it to get the emissions to pass (codes wouldn't set) and in the process cleaned all my ABS sensors, replaced my Speed sensor on the rear differential and replaced both rotors.Are there some home diagnostics I can do to narrow down my search for the problem? Also, on a different note, my father has an 03 with the 4.0L SOHC in it and it seems to get a heck of a lot more get up and go. I understand it is a larger better engine but what I am experiencing seems very sluggish for any V6. Could they be related? Might it just be a fuel filter?
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he has a 2009 ford Ranger, 2.3L .with 54thou miles, the Issue is Vibration during in gear and stopped at a light no vibration at higher rpms during driveing, he states vibration happens in park ,neutral,reverse and drive. had the truck in for repair in two separete dealers they couldent find the problem its an automatic trans. he states from day 1 this truck has had the prob now its out of warrentee.dealer told him that trans to engine alignment was the prob dealer did some alignment and worked for a few weeks.
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Ok, basic rundown. Stop at a red light, turns green, when i go it gives a strange grindy-growl from the rear. Lasts maybe 2 seconds then its gone. its very uncommon. But it is something i am interested in getting figured out. Doesn't happen any other time, only on complete stops.
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2002 3.0, 43,000 miles. Intermittent 'chirping' has begun. Is this the "wear indicator" on the belt tensioner? If so, what is it telling me? And where do I put the breaker bar to slack off tension...Red Arrow, or Blue arrow? They both look like bolts...I was expecting to see a 3/8" square opening...and do I turn clockwise or CCW to slack it all...
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My '94 4.0L XLT has hesitated to start a couple times lately. Then, after sitting for a week while we were on vacation, the truck would not start at all today.
[URL]
I read about the fuel pump relay, so since I am not made of money, I decided to change that first ($16 vs. $100). After installing the new relay, the truck started! I put the old relay in the box and tossed it into the glove box.
After lunch, and some thought, i decided I wanted to put the old relay back in and see what happened. Guess what! It started with the old relay as well! I also noticed that the humming/buzzing sound the fuel pump makes when the switch is turned on was different with the new relay vs the old one. I put the new relay back in, but now I am unsure where my real problem lies. Intermittent relay, or fuel pump on its way out??
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I have a 2005 Ranger 4x4 4.0 automatic with an intermittent no crank, no start issue, So the problem has been getting worse over time This time when it wont start, all of the lights work, the radio, the fan, etc. They are all bright and functioning.
The battery is brand new and showing 12.9v at rest. (Yes, I have tried to jump it and charge it to be sure). However, The gauges are not functioning when the key is turned. I have no click, the lights don't dim, nothing happens when I turn the key.
Another neat point, if I turn on a directional with the key on, the relay clicks so rapidly that it won't even flash the lights. I am assuming that it is a ground someplace, but I dont even know where to start on this truck.
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This has happened maybe 3 times in the last month. Once merging on to the freeway. Another while cruising 70 in the carpool lane. And the last one I was leaving the job site and it did it.
What I'm talking about is a quick like cut out or stall. Maybe a second of time then back to normal. It also makes a clunk sound. You know these things are hard to describe.
Just don't want to freeze up on the freeway and cause a wreak. Also can I tell from my vin.# if I have limited slip or posi.
Ford Ranger xlt extended cab
2 wheel drive, 4.OL Auto .........
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I have a 2003 Ford Ranger, recently I had the heater core fail. One thing that happened during the heater core starting to leak is the "THEFT" light came on brighter than normal and no longer flashes when the truck is off. Also when the theft light started acting up the O/D OFF light came on and would not shut off. If I pushed the O/D off button the Theft light will go out and then come back on after the button is released.
After the heater core was replaced the lights stayed on as described above. Every once in a while the O/D off light would stay off but then come on later. No really problem besides the lights and O/D off button not working. Now today the O/D off light started flashing and the truck kept shifting in and out of O/D.
I'm leaning towards a speed sensor issue. I'm going to check and see if there is any codes tonight and will post my results. One other thing that happen with the heater core leaking is the "CHECK ENGINE" light came on because the O2 sensor was shorted out. Have the O2 sensor now and plan on replacing it while I trouble shoot the erratic shifting in and out of O/D.
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Brother in law has the above truck with shifting problem. On a cold start, pulling out of the driveway, it will get to about 3-4000 rpm and will slam into gear. Sometimes its worse than others, but is consistant. Once it warms up, the problem goes away for the most part.
I've researched a little online and have found a few people mention the 1-2 shift accumulator (servo...?) and was wondering if any of you have ran into this or have replaced one on the A4LD.
And if you have, which servo is the 1-2 shift? I think there are 6 of the little suckers in there. Anyway, all i've done so far is fluid and filter. Old fluid looked/smelled fine.
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I have a 2002 3.0 with the 5R44E. I don't like how late it shifts into 5th gear. Is there a way to make it shift into 5th at 45-50 instead of 55? I feel like I have to let off the gas half of the time to make it shift and I don't have a heavy foot. If anything, driving with a light foot seems to make it shift into 5th later.
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I have a 1987 ranger 2.9 V6. Have a intermittent miss @ idle when warmed up. What is the proper way to pull the codes from the computer, i,st something about counting flashes or lights...
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Background- 2000 Ranger, 3.0L 2WD 170,000mi. This truck is not my daily driver, i try to drive it once a week.
I've never had this issue before... I drove all over town yesterday; multiple stops, no issue. Today i go to do the same thing and upon accelerating out of the driveway i lose all power for about 3 seconds. I get power back for about 3 seconds then lose it again. This continues for as longs as i'm driving. Also, no CEL. I go back to the house to look things over, can't find anything staring me in the face really.
Truck idles fine and the issue is not present when i run up the RPMs in park. I've been reading some other threads about similar issues and most replies begin with checking the regular maintenance stuff i.e. TB, MAF, IACV, pcv, etc. It seems like a complete loss of fuel or spark...but only when in gear with constant throttle???
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Im getting an intermittent stumble with a check engine light. I have a 1990 Ranger XLT with a 2.3L 5spd. I pulled the codes 32 41 88. I looked them up but Im not sure what to check next. I have done much searching on several sites but havent found much. OBD-1 eludes me.
32(R)EVP - EGR not responding properly during test - EVP
41System Indicates Lean
88 Loss Of Dual Plug Input Control c ..
What does it all mean??? What would you check next?
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Previously on "This Old Truck": [URL] ....
Mileage now 298,5xx. Done since last report: Oil change and filter. Trans oil change (merconIII, no leaks apparent). Tires. Front brake pads. Clutch safety switch (was interfering with cruise control operation) Coolant replacement. (see below)
Rat damage related overheat (near total coolant loss, but no MIL) at 288k. (Rat suffered acute lead poisoning later that night) No sign of rodents since.
Fuel filter change (after onset of symptoms).
NO MIL/CEL, no pending codes. CEL/MIL operates on KOST.
Temps normal (190F +/-2 deg during steady-state cruise operation, fuel flows and fuel mileage have not changed significantly. (fuel mileage has IMPROVED approx 5%, possibly due to gentler/slower driving)
M5OD with Limited slip 3.73/ payload pkg II (1650lbs)
Symptoms:
- Intermittent misfire on startup, seems to get better as the truck warms up. (intermittent= some days it do, some days it don't.)
- Truck starts and idles well, even with misfire.
- Intermittent loss of power, usually worse on days when no- or minor- misfire at startup/cold idle. From the driver seat it feels like accelerating over painted lines on a rainy day. . . a couple revs of no power, then it pulls hard for a second or two, then misses a couple of shots, lather, rinse, repeat.
- Usually worse in higher gears; (not noticeable in first or 2nd, bad in 3rd at high power settings, now almost constant in 5th, to the point that truck will not accelerate below 3000rpm in 5th even on flat ground.)
- Fuel flows above 4GPH/ OBDII "LOD" (engine load) reported above 75% are typical during malfunction. (Fuel flows have been as high as 9GPH with no problems on other days.)
Symptoms started at approx 292k and have been slowly getting worse over the past few months. . . . usually worse at beginning of trip, fading to very occasional after 50 miles of high-speed driving. Some days/trips no noticeable malfunction.
Thoughts:
1) Ignition wires tired? (did visual inspection, no obvious damage, but no water spray test performed, but seems likely given that the problem is most evident in conditions that would lead to high cylinder pressures.)
2) Fuel pressure? (not measured yet. . . original pump but possibility discounted due to intermittent nature of malfunction.)
3) O2 sensors tired/rat damage? (Original units still installed/ no obvious damage on cursory visual inspection under truck)
4) Injector going bad or injector wiring rat damage?
5) Plugged catalytic converters? (no sound of blown exhaust gaskets, exhaust flows well at tailpipe, with puffs at misfire.)
6) Cam sensor? (never been replaced; known issue with this model engine. Had intermittent mystery squeak that came and went at approx 250k-260k)
7) Clutch slipping? (never had one do that; always lose the throw-out first)
8) LSD problem? (fluid level/ appearance ok, last changed 150k; would expect worse in LOW gears)
9) Blown head gasket/s?
10) Cracked heads/ block? (Oil and coolant levels and appearance normal)
So: That's the plan of attack. What am I missing? (Clutch last done approx 170k; burned throw-out, did disk, flywheel, pressure plate, slave cylinder while the trans was down. I did not open the hydraulics or disturb the pedal linkage when I replaced the safety switch. )
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My problem: Intermittent skipping / bogging / lack of power etc. It started about 2 months ago and is progressively getting worse. At first it was every couple of weeks, then once a week, now daily. It happens at variable times, temperatures (engine), and rpm's. When this happens I can pull over, shut the engine off, wait 1 minute and restart and it drives fine until next time. Now it will run fine for 1 to 2 minutes then stall. Sometimes runs rough first other times dies flat out. Starts right back up though?
What I've done so far: New plugs and wires. Tested both coil packs (primary resistance at input socket is .7 ohms on both coils and secondary resistance on top is 12.02 to 12.07 on both coils ).Since code 224 is primary circuit failure coil # 1 2 3 or 4 I replaced primary coil anyway. No luck. Removed ICM had it tested(at auto zone) 10 times in a row, it passed each time.
Checked the fuel system at the rail idles at 32 psi with vac.on at regulator and 40psi with vac. off at regulator. All within specs.
Checked compression. 170 psi lowest reading and 180 psi highest reading.All within specs.
Took some timing notes. Idles at 22*btdc after a minute or 2 it drops to 15*btdc for ~5 seconds then back to 22*btdc then dies flat out. Or it will go from 22*btdc to 28*btdc run rough for ~10 seconds then stall.
I disconnected the spout connector but it still idles at 22*btdc. I thought this would force the engine to run at base timing (10*btdc) but no go.
I'm thinking maybe the cam position sensor but I can't find it to replace it. It is not by the oil filter where it should be.
Found this info on rockledge site ("On other setups, such as the 2.3L Ranger, the PIP and CID signals are both generated from the crankshaft by virtue of a "dual vane actuator" which is essentially a doubled-up Hall-Effect sensor.")
Does this mean I don't have a cam position sensor? It's all rolled into one at the ckp? How to confirm that I have DIS or EDIS ignition ?
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I just had a 97 Ford Ranger with a 3 speed overdrive transmission in my garage that we replaced the transmission because it was not shifting down into first gear, not even manually!. The new transmission is doing the exact same thing as the original.
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So went today and bought a 1993 ranger 4x4 ext cab 4.0! Runs good some bad handy work that i need to fix but truck has plenty of power and good handling...
issue 1- 4x4 not engaging. the light by the push buttons does not come on and you dont hear the "clicking" of the relay trying to engage. so whats the problem and how do i fix it?
issue 2- when clutch is fully depressed and you go to shift (this is only sometimes) you can feel and hear it grind just for a quick sec. and forget about down shifting you cant do that without slowing down. so maybe new clutch?
issue 3- at 65 the vehicle does shake a little otherwise but pretty smooth. any tips on how to smooth it out? maybe new ball joints? tighten some stuff up maybe?
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