Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2006 - Got Error Code P0171 - Rough Idle?
Aug 11, 2013
I have a 2006 Ford Ranger with the 3.0L v6. The check engine light came on and the code it is blowing is a P0171. It runs rough at idle or when I let off the accelerator and "fine" at speed.
The code told me to check/clean the MAF which I have done. Next on the list that I saw was the PCV valve. I disconnected the electrical to it and then disconnected the hose. Some oil poured out of it... not a lot but some... The valve still seems free, it clicks when I rotate/shake it and I can blow through it (I know, highly scientific). I can replace this (if I can find it, Napa and Advanced Auto don't have a part that looks like it...) but I'm wondering what else could be wrong.
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I have a 1999 B4000 V6 4.0L with 78K miles on it. I recently had P0171 and P0174 error codes come up. I replaced the MAF sensor and have not had the codes return but now the truck will basically stalls out when sitting at a stop light. It does not do it all the time just randomly. It has never done it when engine is cool but only once up to temp. The idle is smooth at cold engine but begins to get rougher once warmed up (nothing too bad just noticeable). I cleaned the IAC with MAF cleaner but no joy. I reseated all plug cables at the coil but no change. RPM around 600-700 then fluctuates up a bit then truck will stall quickly( I usually cannot put other foot on gas in time to get it to increase RPM before it dies)....
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I bought this from my brother in better than mint condition. Always maintained. Its generating a cyl #2 misfire code.
It starts and runs like new when cold, but when it warms up, it idles rough, and generates the code. after 1500 rpm it smooths right out and runs fine.
He had it to the dealer just before I bought it and they told him needed a new engine.
I am thinking bad injector, since what seems to be happening is, when cold it gets more fuel, or when u rev it gets more fuel, but at an idle and warm, it doesn't seem to be getting enough maybe. And I see from the maintenance records, a couple of other injectors have been replaced as well.
I think the dealer got tired of replacing injectors under warranty and tried to milk him for a new engine.
2002 ranger extended cab 2wd, 3 door, 232,000 kms 5 speed 3 liter V6, new glass and clutch..
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I have a P2195 and P0171 ... 2006 Ranger 2.3 ... Drives fine but at idle..idle gets slower till it lopes. Changed O2 sensor,Cleaned air flow sensor,changed PCV valve, Can't find any leaks, could it be EGR...how do I check it ?
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2001 Ranger 4-cylinder 2.5L engine, 180K miles. I have been getting PO301 for months now, on and off so it's probably not related to this one.
It started idling awfully a week ago but does not die. Some vacuum problem. I heard the PCV valve elbow is the likely problem but where it is located? A pic or a diagram would be really useful, I did a search but keep getting 4L engine and other makes/years.
It's currently throwing P0171 code. A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty
Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor
Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection
Faulty or stuck open PCV valve
Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1)
Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector
Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter!)
Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor
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I have 2007 explorer with the 4.6 V8....
Recently it started running horrible. Rough idle, drives badly, hesitation, etc. Check engine light is on, code P0171. I cannot find a vacuum leak, and i am pretty much at a loss. Before it started running poorly i replaced the thermostat, and flushed the coolant. I am assuming this is a coincidence.
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What that means? The check engine light is NOT on but I looked for a code because my truck is idling rough, and when driving, when the overdrive kicks in, it vibrates really bad. As if a bad U-joint on your drive shaft. The truck has been in a field for about 5 months broke down so any clue? Haynes manual says nothing about P1000.
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My 1996 Ranger runs ok but my check engine has come on. Using a scanner tool, indicates my cat monitor wont go to ready state and my error code is P0141. According to my research it indicates one of my 02 sensors. How to determine if its the one before or after the cat converter? About 6 months ago I had an exhaust leak repaired around my converter so I know I cant return it under warranty . If its the rear sensor , It looks fairly easy to replace but the front sensor looks a bit cramped.
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Engine runs rough at idle. Two plugs are black and just replaced head gaskets. I installed new short block and new heads six months ago. I can't seem to figure out the problem and I would like to trouble shoot more before tearing heads off and going any further.
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I understand there is not much adjustable on my 98 Ranger (2.5L) as far as idle speed and mixture. It runs rough when started cold. Is this a sign to replace spark plugs?
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I'm getting tired of the same problem about every 6 months. Plug #4 keeps going bad. Its been doing this for years. It starts with rough idle when first starting up that clears up quickly then eventually it leads to a misfire when accelerating. Every time this happens I replace plug #4 and its good to go. Just recently (roughly 6 months ago) did a full tune up and all new injectors. About a week or 2 ago it started its rough idle at start up and just the other day it started misfiring again. What would keep causing this??
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My 2005 2.3l Ranger ran great. I moved a trailer about 150 feet and stalled the truck backing it up. Stick shift. Unhooked the trailer and pulled back into the parking area....all the sudden the truck has extremely rough idle and stalls. It runs good on the highway. AutoZone ran a OEM number to cross: P0171.
I cleaned the IAC with intake cleaner. No Luck
I unhooked battery for 15 min. No Luck
I sprayed intake with 1/2 can of intake cleaner. No Luck
I did not have a tamper torx to remove the MAF. What next.
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168K, to date, replaced
rear 2 cat's
Timing chain and gears
cam sync assem.
Plugs, wires, dis block,
Why.............. Read on
This 2003 ranger 3.0 v6, run very hard at idle, yet it runs and you can drive it around town, ""at"" low rpm, and no hills but it gets from point a to point b
I have no pre ingintion, but a plug that was only 60 days only was burnt out completely on 3rd cyl. bank 1 or as ford call it #3, i am telling you this thing seem like it running on 4 cyl,s kicking back and forth, and replacing everything above made no difference.
On the highway, as long as it is flat or down hill 75-80 mph, as soon as a hill or power to pass is needed it bogs down and slows it self to about 45 mph, I have been though everything i can think of and my next move to to start pulling heads, but i wanted to ask here first.
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I have a 2002 ford ranger xlt 3.0 i just rebuilt the entire motor about a month ago and was having a high idle problem for the longest time. turns out i had the iac on backwards. but now that it idles down around where its supposed to it has a rough idle has a little shake to it. starts up right away but when i drive down the road around 3000-3500 rpms its missing on cylinder #3 from what the code I am getting "multiple cylinder misfire, #3 cylinder misfire" I've replaced plugs and wires. camshaft pos sensor. I am getting 65 lbs of fuel pressure. spark on all cylinders. I am really at a dead end here. Also every time I take the plugs out to look at them they look brand new.
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So I have a 2001 ranger 2.3l . Runs very rough at idle.code says misfire in cyl.#1. I have changed plugs, wires, coil packs all motocraft. I did a compression test..
#1.170
#2 180
#3. 185
#4 . 180
Compression seems fine,but where do i go from here? Anything else i can check/replace to solve this?
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1999 B3000 with a 3.0. The truck idles at 850rpms. When it starts it idles at around 1000 and runs very rough. When I disconnect the IAC the engine dies. The AC also has problems it blows cold at idle but at highway speeds after 7-8 minutes running the compressor kicks out. One can turn it off and it blows cold again after a few minutes.
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2007 Ranger 4.0l, idles rough at low rpm, in park or drive, with or without the AC on.
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1995 ford ranger with 4.0. It idles rough. Replaced MAF TPS fuel pump fuel filter fuel pressure regulator upper o2 sensor. IAC.. still idles rough RPMs drop. It isn't as bad since replacing MAF but still not right. What else is there.. Cleaned out the air intake port it was gummed up. Don't know what else to do?
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1998 Ranger 4x4 4.0 Ltr - Runs rough ever now and then and CEL giving P1151 code. Upper and lower intake gaskets have been replaced.
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I have an 02 ranger xlt 3.0, it started having a rough idle, codes say cylinder #2&3 misfiring, changed plugs, wires, coil pack, didn't work, still same code, checked injectors on right side, all 3 had ohm reading of 15.8-16.5, the injectors were clicking like they are supposed to, sprayed carb cleaner around the intake ports, didn't change the idle at all,what else can I check or do? with out tearing the engine apart, unless of course I have to, the truck has been very good to me, it's got 205,000 miles on it, I need it to last at least another year...
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I have a 1999 B4000 4.0L with 160K miles on it. Bought the truck new. Up until about a year ago it ran perfect but has developed an idle, stalling and occassional jerky ride problem. It occurs at any temperature, engine hot or cold, A/C clutch on or off and in Park, Drive or Neutral. When you start the engine it will not idle unless you keep your foot on the gas. The idle speed will drop to 200-300 rpm and the engine dies. Sometimes you can barely tap the gas pedal and the rpm will shoot up to normal idle speed (about 900 rpm) and stay there a few seconds then begin to drop again. If the engine is cold it will often die a couple times after starting even with the foot on the gas and then about the 2nd or 3rd time run with your foot on the gas.
At stop signs and red lights you have to keep your foot on the gas to keep it running. If you are approaching a stop sign and take your foot off the gas to coast to a stop and brake, the engine rpm will drop and the engine will die. It always starts fine though. Once you are driving it generally runs just fine at low or high speed. You can generally set the cruise control on the expressway and cruise right on. However, sometimes all of a sudden the truck will start bucking and jumping as if it has a terrible misfire. It usually lasts a few seconds and quits. Often if you step on the gas it quits. Even less occasionally the engine will begin to slow as if it is starved for fuel and slow down. You can press the pedal to the floor and it sputters a bit then picks up and runs fine.
I have read about all the threads in this forum and others and tried some of the suggested fixes but it still has the problem. I have tuned it up with new plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter and PCV valve. Based on some of the forums advice I have replaced the IAC valve, the EGR valve and EGR Pressure Feedback Sensor, and cleaned and inspected the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. I have checked all my vacuum lines and no leaks there and checked the engine timing which is fine. Fuel rail pressure and engine compression are also fine. Spark plugs show no clues, exhaust is clean and the engine uses virtually no oil. There has been no tear down on the engine like removing the heads, cam, timing gears or any of that and the engine is completely stock.
It shows no codes related to the problem. Two or three months after the problem started I showed a code that indicated an injector problem, traced the problem to a bad injector, replaced the faulty injector and it was fine. That took care of that code but didn't solve the idle problem. In my younger days I was into drag racing and I rebuilt engines, swapped transmissions, etc. and still do my own tune-ups today so I am fairly familiar with auto repair and have most of the tools for testing newer cars but this one stumps me. As a last resort I'm about to take it to the dealer.
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