Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2005 - Squeaks At Low Speeds?


Jun 19, 2013

My ranger started to squeak at low speeds a few months ago (when it was pretty cold) and still does it in the mornings when I first start driving it. It squeaks from around 2mph up to 25-30 and then it seems to go away (or I can't hear it anymore cause of other noises haha). It is from underneath the truck somewhere, and not related to clutch or brakes. It seems to do it in the mornings only (or when it's cold) and increases in frequency when your speed increases. Not engine related at all.

My first thought was U joints or the driveshaft rubbing, since the squeaking was directly related to how fast you were moving and clutch in/out and brakes didn't change the noise at all. I couldn't find anything rubbing on the driveshaft.

Changed the U-joints since they were kinda old, but this didn't fix the issue. Next I pulled the rear brakes and checked all the springs and such, nothing I could see was wrong. Greased up the shoe contact points and put it all back together.

It was still squeaking, so I checked the wheel bearings for play and spun them while each corner was jacked up, the bearings seemed fine and didn't make any noise when I spun each tire. I have transmission and rear differential fluid.

I've checked all of the stuff I can think of and am kind of at a loss as to the next step. I guess the things it could possibly be are transmission bearings (input/output, since those spin all the time right?), pinion bearings or rear end bearings, wheel bearings (even though i've checked them), or ??

I've driven a chevy with bad bearings in the rear end, and this doesn't sound like that. The chevy sounded like a dull roar at speed, and kinda droned a bunch. this is a very distinct squeaking sound, very similar to a squeaking bearing on the idler pulley or something like that.

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Also a friend of mine had this happen to his Chevy Silverado and the replacement hub broke again so they just turned off the ABS....Is this OK to do if I don't want to fix this problem?

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A while ago I had a '99 Ranger. Long bed, regular cab, 2wd, 5-speed, 2.3. I had really poor acceleration. I was used to Toyota pickups with the 2.4 22RE, and the Ranger was considerably slower to come to highway speeds.

So, I took it to two different dealers, and they told me "that's just the way they are." I guess I believed them and sold the truck. Now, I am kind of thinking about another Ranger. Do people here think the '99 2.3 has an acceleration problem? Are there certain years to avoid the I4 in a Ranger?

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I've got a 2003 Ranger 2.3L DOHC, 5 speed, 2WD. It has a check engine light with codes :

P0316-Engine Misfire Detected On Startup
P0704-Clutch Switch Input Circuit Fault
P2195-O2 Sensor Excess Lean Signal Bank 1-Sensor 1
P0171-System Too Lean (Bank 1)

The truck runs fine when coasting or accelerating but when holding a steady light throttle to maintain speed the truck starts bucking and jerking. It's doesn't feel like a misfire, more like a fuel cut out condition. When this happens and you come to a stop, you can smell that the exhaust is very rich coming out of the tailpipe. I've already replaced the upstream O2 sensor and I did a tune up about 15k ago. I'm thinking fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. I doubt if this is related, but on start up (more so on a cold start up) the A/C compressor clutch kicks in and out 3-5 times and makes a terrible racket.

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When I stop, the engine idles oddly - it slows and speeds back up, tachometer and the battery gauges both lower just a bit and immediately return to normal. When the headlights are on, they dim in rhythm when the gauges dip. It does not do this in park or neutral.

Sometimes it does it right away. Sometimes it doesn't do this at all. Of course it did not do this when I took it to the shop. The battery is nearly new. Cables are fine. Alternator checked out ok.

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I put it on a meter It said tps so I replaced it. then it said number 4 cyl no power so I put new plugs in.... I do not hear any vacuum leaks, and It runs like a top when cold.

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The battery is brand new and showing 12.9v at rest. (Yes, I have tried to jump it and charge it to be sure). However, The gauges are not functioning when the key is turned. I have no click, the lights don't dim, nothing happens when I turn the key.

Another neat point, if I turn on a directional with the key on, the relay clicks so rapidly that it won't even flash the lights. I am assuming that it is a ground someplace, but I dont even know where to start on this truck.

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What I'm talking about is a quick like cut out or stall. Maybe a second of time then back to normal. It also makes a clunk sound. You know these things are hard to describe.

Just don't want to freeze up on the freeway and cause a wreak. Also can I tell from my vin.# if I have limited slip or posi.

Ford Ranger xlt extended cab
2 wheel drive, 4.OL Auto .........

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Now every bump I go over the truck squeaks and creaks like crazy. It's embarrassing. Sounds like bushings? Truck was fine before with the stock Ranchos.

I torqued rear to 46ftlbs and front to 76ftlbs. I tightened the top nut until the bushings compressed 1/4" each.

No instructions came with them. Do I need to lube something?

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Also, is there any way to VAG the rear hatch, so you don't have to constantly use the door switch or fob to unlock the hatch, even when the doors are unlocked? And, is the any way to change the brightness of the overhead compass screen? At night, unless I lean over, I can't read it from the driver's seat. Those are my only rants thus far, which are nearly nonexistent. PS - got the hitch put on and pulled for the first time last weekend. Nothing but good things to say.

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I just bought this Ranger a really bad steering issue. When at low speeds, when I go to turn the steering "jumps/kicks." Then after I straighten out at the end of the turn it jumps in the direction that the steering wheel is being turned. This goes away at higher speeds (40+mph).

I was told by the seller that it needs a new steering pump, but my mechanic said that it was operating well. He noticed that the bearings were loose on the driver side and tightened them up. The problem went away. I just finished driving it for about 20 miles and the problem is back.

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