Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2005 Intermittent Cut Out Once Merging On To The Freeway
Feb 7, 2015
This has happened maybe 3 times in the last month. Once merging on to the freeway. Another while cruising 70 in the carpool lane. And the last one I was leaving the job site and it did it.
What I'm talking about is a quick like cut out or stall. Maybe a second of time then back to normal. It also makes a clunk sound. You know these things are hard to describe.
Just don't want to freeze up on the freeway and cause a wreak. Also can I tell from my vin.# if I have limited slip or posi.
Ford Ranger xlt extended cab
2 wheel drive, 4.OL Auto .........
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I have a 2005 Ranger 4x4 4.0 automatic with an intermittent no crank, no start issue, So the problem has been getting worse over time This time when it wont start, all of the lights work, the radio, the fan, etc. They are all bright and functioning.
The battery is brand new and showing 12.9v at rest. (Yes, I have tried to jump it and charge it to be sure). However, The gauges are not functioning when the key is turned. I have no click, the lights don't dim, nothing happens when I turn the key.
Another neat point, if I turn on a directional with the key on, the relay clicks so rapidly that it won't even flash the lights. I am assuming that it is a ground someplace, but I dont even know where to start on this truck.
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I have a 1992 Ranger with 2.3L that suddenly lost power on freeway and stopped and couldn't restart. Towed it to Seattle, WA and need Ford Ranger 2.3L engine mechanic to double check the timing since new belt installed to make sure it was done right before cover and rest of engine reinstalled.
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I just totally re-built the rear brakes in my 93 Ranger 2wd. Now its seems I have this 'intermittent vibration' between 90 to 105 km/h.
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My 2.3L Ranger experiences a drawn out 2-3 shift but only does it once in a while. On my drive to work it might do it at 1 of 10 stop/go and the other times it's perfect. It really seams to do it more when it's cold???? I know it's an electronic shift trans so my guess is because it's intermittent it's getting a false signal from somewhere - maybe? All of the other shifts are fine, it just happens 2-3. It has the correct fluid in the trans and is new.
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Ok, basic rundown. Stop at a red light, turns green, when i go it gives a strange grindy-growl from the rear. Lasts maybe 2 seconds then its gone. its very uncommon. But it is something i am interested in getting figured out. Doesn't happen any other time, only on complete stops.
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2002 3.0, 43,000 miles. Intermittent 'chirping' has begun. Is this the "wear indicator" on the belt tensioner? If so, what is it telling me? And where do I put the breaker bar to slack off tension...Red Arrow, or Blue arrow? They both look like bolts...I was expecting to see a 3/8" square opening...and do I turn clockwise or CCW to slack it all...
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My '94 4.0L XLT has hesitated to start a couple times lately. Then, after sitting for a week while we were on vacation, the truck would not start at all today.
[URL]
I read about the fuel pump relay, so since I am not made of money, I decided to change that first ($16 vs. $100). After installing the new relay, the truck started! I put the old relay in the box and tossed it into the glove box.
After lunch, and some thought, i decided I wanted to put the old relay back in and see what happened. Guess what! It started with the old relay as well! I also noticed that the humming/buzzing sound the fuel pump makes when the switch is turned on was different with the new relay vs the old one. I put the new relay back in, but now I am unsure where my real problem lies. Intermittent relay, or fuel pump on its way out??
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I have a 1987 ranger 2.9 V6. Have a intermittent miss @ idle when warmed up. What is the proper way to pull the codes from the computer, i,st something about counting flashes or lights...
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Background- 2000 Ranger, 3.0L 2WD 170,000mi. This truck is not my daily driver, i try to drive it once a week.
I've never had this issue before... I drove all over town yesterday; multiple stops, no issue. Today i go to do the same thing and upon accelerating out of the driveway i lose all power for about 3 seconds. I get power back for about 3 seconds then lose it again. This continues for as longs as i'm driving. Also, no CEL. I go back to the house to look things over, can't find anything staring me in the face really.
Truck idles fine and the issue is not present when i run up the RPMs in park. I've been reading some other threads about similar issues and most replies begin with checking the regular maintenance stuff i.e. TB, MAF, IACV, pcv, etc. It seems like a complete loss of fuel or spark...but only when in gear with constant throttle???
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Im getting an intermittent stumble with a check engine light. I have a 1990 Ranger XLT with a 2.3L 5spd. I pulled the codes 32 41 88. I looked them up but Im not sure what to check next. I have done much searching on several sites but havent found much. OBD-1 eludes me.
32(R)EVP - EGR not responding properly during test - EVP
41System Indicates Lean
88 Loss Of Dual Plug Input Control c ..
What does it all mean??? What would you check next?
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Previously on "This Old Truck": [URL] ....
Mileage now 298,5xx. Done since last report: Oil change and filter. Trans oil change (merconIII, no leaks apparent). Tires. Front brake pads. Clutch safety switch (was interfering with cruise control operation) Coolant replacement. (see below)
Rat damage related overheat (near total coolant loss, but no MIL) at 288k. (Rat suffered acute lead poisoning later that night) No sign of rodents since.
Fuel filter change (after onset of symptoms).
NO MIL/CEL, no pending codes. CEL/MIL operates on KOST.
Temps normal (190F +/-2 deg during steady-state cruise operation, fuel flows and fuel mileage have not changed significantly. (fuel mileage has IMPROVED approx 5%, possibly due to gentler/slower driving)
M5OD with Limited slip 3.73/ payload pkg II (1650lbs)
Symptoms:
- Intermittent misfire on startup, seems to get better as the truck warms up. (intermittent= some days it do, some days it don't.)
- Truck starts and idles well, even with misfire.
- Intermittent loss of power, usually worse on days when no- or minor- misfire at startup/cold idle. From the driver seat it feels like accelerating over painted lines on a rainy day. . . a couple revs of no power, then it pulls hard for a second or two, then misses a couple of shots, lather, rinse, repeat.
- Usually worse in higher gears; (not noticeable in first or 2nd, bad in 3rd at high power settings, now almost constant in 5th, to the point that truck will not accelerate below 3000rpm in 5th even on flat ground.)
- Fuel flows above 4GPH/ OBDII "LOD" (engine load) reported above 75% are typical during malfunction. (Fuel flows have been as high as 9GPH with no problems on other days.)
Symptoms started at approx 292k and have been slowly getting worse over the past few months. . . . usually worse at beginning of trip, fading to very occasional after 50 miles of high-speed driving. Some days/trips no noticeable malfunction.
Thoughts:
1) Ignition wires tired? (did visual inspection, no obvious damage, but no water spray test performed, but seems likely given that the problem is most evident in conditions that would lead to high cylinder pressures.)
2) Fuel pressure? (not measured yet. . . original pump but possibility discounted due to intermittent nature of malfunction.)
3) O2 sensors tired/rat damage? (Original units still installed/ no obvious damage on cursory visual inspection under truck)
4) Injector going bad or injector wiring rat damage?
5) Plugged catalytic converters? (no sound of blown exhaust gaskets, exhaust flows well at tailpipe, with puffs at misfire.)
6) Cam sensor? (never been replaced; known issue with this model engine. Had intermittent mystery squeak that came and went at approx 250k-260k)
7) Clutch slipping? (never had one do that; always lose the throw-out first)
8) LSD problem? (fluid level/ appearance ok, last changed 150k; would expect worse in LOW gears)
9) Blown head gasket/s?
10) Cracked heads/ block? (Oil and coolant levels and appearance normal)
So: That's the plan of attack. What am I missing? (Clutch last done approx 170k; burned throw-out, did disk, flywheel, pressure plate, slave cylinder while the trans was down. I did not open the hydraulics or disturb the pedal linkage when I replaced the safety switch. )
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I bought a used Ranger a couple months ago and it ran fine when I test drove it but a week later it started having a misfire every now and then at idle.. I must have gotten pretty unlucky with the test drives..
The misfire comes and goes, it will run fine for a week or two and then it will misfire at idle for a week or two. It only seems to misfire at idle, the truck runs rough/shakes but once you give it a little gas and start moving it goes away. Usually it has a check engine light on from startup when it's misfiring and it goes away on days that it's running fine; it will occasionally misfire at idle with no check engine light. Sometimes when its running really rough the CEL flashes while it's misfiring at idle and I've actually restarted it real quick and the misfire went away for a bit. The engine codes that come up are misfire on startup and misfire on cylinder 4.
I've tried cleaning the MAF sensor, replacing the fuel filter, testing for spark and compression. Compression was 150-155 PSI on all cylinders, however, the compression on cylinder 4 is different depending on whether the truck is running well or not. When it's misfiring the compression on cyl. 4 is 90 PSI and when it's running fine it's 150 PSI. I'm not sure what could be causing intermittent low compression like that?
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My problem: Intermittent skipping / bogging / lack of power etc. It started about 2 months ago and is progressively getting worse. At first it was every couple of weeks, then once a week, now daily. It happens at variable times, temperatures (engine), and rpm's. When this happens I can pull over, shut the engine off, wait 1 minute and restart and it drives fine until next time. Now it will run fine for 1 to 2 minutes then stall. Sometimes runs rough first other times dies flat out. Starts right back up though?
What I've done so far: New plugs and wires. Tested both coil packs (primary resistance at input socket is .7 ohms on both coils and secondary resistance on top is 12.02 to 12.07 on both coils ).Since code 224 is primary circuit failure coil # 1 2 3 or 4 I replaced primary coil anyway. No luck. Removed ICM had it tested(at auto zone) 10 times in a row, it passed each time.
Checked the fuel system at the rail idles at 32 psi with vac.on at regulator and 40psi with vac. off at regulator. All within specs.
Checked compression. 170 psi lowest reading and 180 psi highest reading.All within specs.
Took some timing notes. Idles at 22*btdc after a minute or 2 it drops to 15*btdc for ~5 seconds then back to 22*btdc then dies flat out. Or it will go from 22*btdc to 28*btdc run rough for ~10 seconds then stall.
I disconnected the spout connector but it still idles at 22*btdc. I thought this would force the engine to run at base timing (10*btdc) but no go.
I'm thinking maybe the cam position sensor but I can't find it to replace it. It is not by the oil filter where it should be.
Found this info on rockledge site ("On other setups, such as the 2.3L Ranger, the PIP and CID signals are both generated from the crankshaft by virtue of a "dual vane actuator" which is essentially a doubled-up Hall-Effect sensor.")
Does this mean I don't have a cam position sensor? It's all rolled into one at the ckp? How to confirm that I have DIS or EDIS ignition ?
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2001 3.0 XLT Ranger 2wd 4 door
Okay getting ready to trade in my Truck. So I removed all the extra things I put on there while I was in college, the amp, fog-lights, and analog oil pressure sensor along with their wiring. It was pretty easy minus removing the oil pressure sending unit part.
I had to unplug the MAF to move the intake out of the way while I was repairing a loose vacuum tank. But I forgot to plug it back in when i closed everything up. I started the truck and drive it about a half mile before I was able to pull over and plug it back in. Truck ran and shifted fine after that, but the CEL came on. P0119 Coolant Temp Signal Intermittent. Guy at Autozone said it was Intake Air Temp Sensor intermittent and I could just replace the part, but they were showing a separate part even though it is built into our MAFs.
So now the CEL is on, can get it to go away. Truck is a little jerky every once in a while, like a misfire, when between 50 and 60. Before all this the CEL was off. Now after I cleaned it up and removed some of the superfluous accessories, I get a CEL. I wanted to trade it in this coming weekend without having to take a loss because of the CEL or spend more money to fix it.
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My ranger started to squeak at low speeds a few months ago (when it was pretty cold) and still does it in the mornings when I first start driving it. It squeaks from around 2mph up to 25-30 and then it seems to go away (or I can't hear it anymore cause of other noises haha). It is from underneath the truck somewhere, and not related to clutch or brakes. It seems to do it in the mornings only (or when it's cold) and increases in frequency when your speed increases. Not engine related at all.
My first thought was U joints or the driveshaft rubbing, since the squeaking was directly related to how fast you were moving and clutch in/out and brakes didn't change the noise at all. I couldn't find anything rubbing on the driveshaft.
Changed the U-joints since they were kinda old, but this didn't fix the issue. Next I pulled the rear brakes and checked all the springs and such, nothing I could see was wrong. Greased up the shoe contact points and put it all back together.
It was still squeaking, so I checked the wheel bearings for play and spun them while each corner was jacked up, the bearings seemed fine and didn't make any noise when I spun each tire. I have transmission and rear differential fluid.
I've checked all of the stuff I can think of and am kind of at a loss as to the next step. I guess the things it could possibly be are transmission bearings (input/output, since those spin all the time right?), pinion bearings or rear end bearings, wheel bearings (even though i've checked them), or ??
I've driven a chevy with bad bearings in the rear end, and this doesn't sound like that. The chevy sounded like a dull roar at speed, and kinda droned a bunch. this is a very distinct squeaking sound, very similar to a squeaking bearing on the idler pulley or something like that.
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Got a 2005 V6 Ranger with low mileage. Having a heater problem. We've replaced the thermostat, heater core, flushed the system twice, burped it to get the air out and replaced the hot water valve. The heater works for a few days then it goes cool: not cold. Adjusting "Temp" will make the temp decrease but it will not return to hot air?
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I have a 2005 ranger, 3.0 and automatic trans
The truck runs fine until it is warm... runs great down highway... stopping at a light or stop sign is horrible, It will act like the (old term ) carb is flooding out.
I put it on a meter It said tps so I replaced it. then it said number 4 cyl no power so I put new plugs in.... I do not hear any vacuum leaks, and It runs like a top when cold.
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I just changed my front brakes in my 05 Ranger. New rotors, pads, bearings (packed), racers, new caliper on driver side, bleed all for brakes. Now when I am just about to stop it feels like the left front is grabbing. I also hear the ABS motor humming when it grabbs. Don't whats causing it?
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I have a 2005 ford ranger, 4.0 auto, 4x4, 60psi fuel presser, has spark and injector pulse, will try to start if you hold the throttle a little over 3/4 the way down, but will not fire on starting fluid.
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I have a 2004 Ford F-150 4x4 5.4 V8 SuperCab. Back in February I lifted my truck with 2.5in coil spacer adapters, out back add a leafs 2-3in. Now I can't say for sure it stated then, but for a while now I have an intermittent freeway vibration. Typically around 70-75mph it is at it peak when it does it. Other times it can be very smooth. The vibration is like an oscillation that you can feel in the body. Not much felt in the steering wheel. The vibration can start and stop any time and last for any amount of time, there is no common point for when it starts and stops. Right or left turns does not cause it to start or stop, sometimes it feels like big bumps will start or stop it but not all the time.
I have a rearview aftermarket camera, I took it off and mounted it several locations to view tires. The fronts are steady while at freeway speed and with the vibration.
After tie rods were changed and no play in any suspension/steering parts, the truck has been aligned several times. Tires are new and have been balanced twice. The driveshaft is new (new U-Joints, shaft and slip yoke) and is balanced, which it did improve the vibration but not perfect. The rear brakes have been inspected, no sign of overheating on the drum or the shoes. The lever is all the way back. So I don't believe it is it, although I did not fully disconnect the cabling. If it was the brakes why would it be intermittent? I had a shop replace all bearings in the rear axle, due to the pinon bearing noise. I saw the TSB's already on vibrations and none conform to my situation. The hubs have been checked, with the engine on they are unlocked.
So as I stated I can't say for sure it started after the lift but maybe due to the lift the differential pinion angle to driveshaft and to the transfer case is too high. Maybe I need some pinion shims. But I haven't heard of anything else needed to do this after a 2-3in lift. I'm getting tired of chasing this vibration.
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