Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2005 4x4 - No Crank Or Lights / Clicking In Lower Passenger Side Area?
Jan 6, 2016
I have a 2005 Ford Ranger Edge 4x4. 4.0, 5 speed. Pretty bare bones truck. On the 4th, my truck was fine... Good deal. On the morning of the 5th, I had a no start issue. No crank, no lights, nada. Figured it's the battery as the one in it was in there when I got it. Got a new one and dropped it in. No difference. This morning I drove me other truck and when I tried to start it this morning I got a clicking in the lower passenger side area. The dash is dark except for the battery and airbag lights, and they're really really dim. This is my newest to me truck and one before this was a 74 Chevy. So computer ones are not my strong point at all.
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i have an 89 ford ranger custom and my driver side tail light works just fine but my passenger doesnt work when i mash the brake the passenger side brake light wont come on. the parking lights work, turn signals, and hazards work but the brake light. ive checked the wires and replaced the socket and still the same problem so either theres something in the wires that im missing or i dont know what else. any hints?
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I have a 2005 Ranger 4x4 4.0 automatic with an intermittent no crank, no start issue, So the problem has been getting worse over time This time when it wont start, all of the lights work, the radio, the fan, etc. They are all bright and functioning.
The battery is brand new and showing 12.9v at rest. (Yes, I have tried to jump it and charge it to be sure). However, The gauges are not functioning when the key is turned. I have no click, the lights don't dim, nothing happens when I turn the key.
Another neat point, if I turn on a directional with the key on, the relay clicks so rapidly that it won't even flash the lights. I am assuming that it is a ground someplace, but I dont even know where to start on this truck.
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I have a 1999 XLT and i had a bad moment yesterday. I always put the toolbox in the back side of the cabin, while doing maintenance i tried to open the rear door and I couldn't. I noticed its locked from the upper because the lower looks free. The other thing i noticed the two wires going to the handle to open it feels loose. First time happened to me and i really use that door often.
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1990 Bronco II, 2.9l, auto, 4x4. Was running just fine. Sitting in Park just idling away. All of a sudden, just starts running real rough, ticking, etc.
Towed it home. This morning, started up OK but still running really rough.
While running, pulled spark plug wires one at a time from the drivers side. Had no effect but could tell the wires were sparking as I held them up to metal.
Turned truck off. Drivers side exhaust manifold COLD, passenger side HOT.
This sounds real bad to me. Am I missing something simple that could cause the drivers side of the engine to not work?
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I have an 03 ranger and my driver side window will not roll down... My pass side rolls down just fine...when I push the down button all I get is a clicking noise out of what seems to be a little black box underneath the driver side dash and I can actually physically feel the clicking along with hearing it... When I push up on the button I get no noise or anything... this might be the motor...the regulator...or the actual switch?
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Ok I got the brake pull fixed (I think) on my 92 Ranger 4x2 4.0 extended cab. I still will have to change the driver's side brake hose for prevention and the driver's side caliper just so everything will be new. But it stops straight now with a new brake job, pass caliper and hose on. However, this other problem has been ongoing and it does it on my 1998 Ranger too. It's not the heater core.
I think the evaporator case is filling with water and dripping down under the carpet. So the drain tube must be stopped or the case must have a bunch of leaves stopping it up. But where is this tube you're suppose to check? I don't see a conventional drain tube I only see a blower motor vent tube that doesn't drain to the outside of the car anywhere. I know my 73 Charger has a rubber drain tube that comes out of the evaporator case and drains onto the ground. But where is this one on a Ranger or what else could it be? It's only the passenger side so it's got to be that.
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My 05 Supercrew 4X4 with 172k miles started making a horrible noise these last couple days. It sounds like its coming from the front passenger side area. The best I can describe is that it sounds like an electric tool motor with bad bearings. I'll be driving along at 45mph or above and every now and then I'll hear a really bad bearing squeal. It's bad enough that I can feel the extra friction caused by the squeal start to slow my truck down. It's vehicle speed related. I know what a bad wheel bearing sounds like and this is nothing like that. It's gotten bad enough I'm nervous to drive anywhere.
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Well, I had a friend put together my front brake rotor, now no more pulsating when coming to a stop, very smooth stop, new front brakes, had it aligned as well.. Also replaced the front shocks, however the passenger side came loose and rattles when going over bumps, speed bumps. I popped the hood, bounced my truck and could see it moving from left to right when bouncing front end of truck.
Question is, can i tighten it up myself, I dont have a jack, limited tools, I know, I know but i dont at the moment. My friend that worked on my truck lives a good drive and i hate to waste gas just for tightening something that should have been done but i have too, I will..
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2000 ford ranger, 2.5 2wd
Been having a little problem whenever it rains, the carpet on the passenger side gets soaked through and I'm not really sure where the leak is coming from. the only part of the floor that gets wet is the flat part where the passenger would put their feet, but the parts that slope up towards the dash and towards the middle of the cab stay dry. I've pulled up this part of the carpet, and the rubber grommets are intact and in good shape, and there is no rust or anything on the floorboard. from searching here it seems people have had similar problems, one thing being a leak into the seals around the third brake light above the rear window.
a couple things i should mention is that the air conditioning condenser has been broken for about two years, so could water get blocked up and leak in? since its winter here in PA i haven't used the air con since last summer though. I'm not really sure how long the leak has been happening since I've always kept a floor mat over that spot, and the carpet drys in a few days anyway.
Another thing i should mention is that the weather stripping at the bottom of the window on the drivers side door is not perfectly tight and tends to come out of place when the door is closed hard. this has been happening since i got the truck almost three years ago and a new piece was just put in a month ago (the leak had been occurring before the new piece was installed) when the truck was hit and went in for body work. possibly a drain routing to passenger floor? I should add that I'm sure it's not coolant, it has no odor and feels like water.
Might be a good idea to pull up the whole carpet on passenger's side and sit in the cab during the next storm...
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Is it what it looks like? Why is it there, to pressure bleed the system through it rather than using a modified MC cap?
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Whenever it rains a substantial amount, like all day I go out to my 92 Ranger and get in and notice the passenger side rubber floor mat has a puddle of water on it. I look under the floor mat and only the center of the carpet there is wet. I see it's getting the edge of that side of the headliner wet and ruining the new headliner had redone. I didn't realize there was water leaking until I got my headliner redone and put back in. It very well could have been leaking causing the headliner cloth to all tear. It's wet along the top passenger side where the grab handle is and the plastic trim. I thought it was the rain gutter on top of the roof so I put in some black silicone and some of it stopped but not all.
So I thought it was still leaking at the front corner so I put more silicone in. Don't know yet if that was what it was for sure but I'll find out tomorrow because it's raining pretty good right now. But just in case where else could it be getting this much water in. If you go through a carwash, or hose it down for awhile, or even drive while it's raining bad it won't get water inside. I'm not convinced it's the rain channel 100% because on the driver's side the putty filling the rain channel on the roof looks worse than the passenger side and there's no water coming in on the driver's side. There is no water coming in the back or on the back carpet or headliner.
I don't see any evidence around the windshield. I can't understand why only the middle of the passenger side carpet is soaked and not the top or under the seat, unless it's just soaking through the rubber floor mat and not drying out. It's getting so frustrating because I can't visibly find any evidence, I have to wait until it rains and then I can't see why it happens. It's ruining my carpet and my new headliner. I want to replace the carpet but want the leak stopped first. Where are common trouble areas on these 92 Rangers for water leakage?
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One last issue with my 2000 B3000 3.0L. The leak seems to be on the left (passenger) side of the water pump very near where the bottom radiator hose connects to it. I can't find any loose bolts. It does not leak while driving the truck or soon after. It has to sit for several hours or overnight before it shows up. There are usually 3 or 4 wet spots where it drips from the water pump to the frame to the driveway. It is small enough that I only have to fill up my coolant tank every 1 or 2 months. Could this just be a small gasket leak? It's been happening for about a year or so I think. I replaced the radiator about 2 years ago. I've been expecting it to get worse or bust loose and have been checking it very often. I've never seen one not leak while running like this-has me puzzled.
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OK, I haven't done a Ranger w/ torsion bars in the front , only coils. What is the best/safest way to do this?
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I have an 05 maxima which no longer wants to start. I've tried jumping it but that's no dice. When I put the key in the battery and brake light come on and when I try to start it there's a clicking sound from the passenger side and before the lights on the dash would flash but it has just been doing the clicking sound lately. Any guesses on what the problem may be?
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I have a 2013 f250 6.2, I bought the truck brand new only have about 3000 miles on it and the other day I noticed that the drivers side front is lower then the passengers side front, the drivers side is about one inch lower, this doesn't seem right, also my drivers side front wheel seems to be pushed forward about one inch to the bumper that also doesn't seem right.
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I'm about to tear into a friends 2002 B2300 4 cyl. The lower hose that comes off of the coolant reservoir is leaking in the metal part of the line. Close to where it bolts to the block. At a glance, it looks like I have to pull the whole top of the motor apart to get it off since the line runs around behind the motor. Is there a trick to removing this coolant line without a lot of teardown? I'm not finding it at parts stores so I guess it's a stealership part.
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2002 Ranger XLT, Super Cab, 4X4, 4.0L SOHC V-6, 5-speed manual transmission. Noticed burnt oil smell. Checking under truck revealed oil drips on garage floor from rear area of engine. Traced to rear corner of left valve cover, but can't see enough of the rear of the engine top-end to say for sure where it may be coming from.
Before I put the truck in the shop for repair, where the oil may potentially be coming from on this particular engine? (I checked; the valve cover fasteners are secure) Any "chronic" oil leak problems with this model engine, or anything?
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I have a 1996 Mazda B2300 & I heard that it is similar to the Ford Ranger.
Well the thing won't crank or start.
This is what I have done so far. I wanted to put a RPM meter on it. I followed YouTube videos on how to do it. I cut the Tan wire w. the yellow stripes & try to connect the wire to thr RPM meter. Then it won't start soo idk what to do. I also took put the PCM too. (I was looking for the wire) Now be honest, I talked to a mechanic, he said thag I might have blown my PCM or Blown another fuse. But when i put the key in to crank, it won't start ot click at all. The lights come on & it wants to start but won't start.
Then my mechanic tried to start it by the... Idk what it is called but you can start it & it wont evet start. It will crank like crazy but will not start at all.
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94 Ranger, 4.0, Automatic, 280k miles. Normally starts and always runs fine. Sometimes will crank and not start. Fuel pump replaced Feb. 2015 and again Dec. 2016. Have had it towed 3 times. Always starts when it gets to the mechanic. Sort of reminds me of vapor lock on the old cars with carbs, because if it sits long enough after not starting, it will start, no problem. Never died out or even coughed when running and plenty of power. When I take off the gas cap, it sucks in air like a whale. Twice I did that and it will not start right away, but if it sits for an hour or so, it starts no problem. Just bought a new gas cap 10 minutes ago and looked in a Haynes manual and a " gas tank vapor valve assembly" is mentioned. I don't want to change parts just to see what happens. Mechanics say there are no codes shown.
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I have tried about everything i know about cars on this truck!! It ran great when I got it until a head gasket got blown so I tore into it and replaced them both torqued heads to specs. Made sure valves wasn't to tight. Distributor is in correct spot timing is correct had ignition module tested good!!! Coil tested good replaced both fuel pumps and put new tank and sending unit in the truck b/c it needed it new fuel filter replaced return line firing order is correct 1 4 2 5 3 6 it is getting fire it will crank and crank sometimes act like it is going to start then not also I can get it to run for about 3 sec on 3 or 2 cylinders it seems to have plenty of compression as well!! only thing really I can think of that could be wrong is computer? Also one last detail tried pull starting it as well still wouldn't go.... V6 2.9L...
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