Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2004 - When Sitting In Park Will Not Rev Up Past 3500 RPM
Jul 14, 2017
My 04 EDGE 3.0 when sitting in Park will not rev up past 3500 RPM. The check engine light has been on for awhile showing P0316 and I believe P0302. My mechanic said number 2 is misfiring; the coil packs/wires/injectors are all good. He said eventually if I want to keep it a new engine would be needed, but as long as it's not burning oil it should be okay to drive for awhile. Why it won't rev up? I wouldn't think one cylinder misfiring would cause that.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
It first started with a huge lose in power (can't rev over 3,500 rpm or get over ~55 mph) and a pig on gas! P0125 showed up so after looking for a while I figured I would change the sending unit
- Single wire (3F1Z-12A648-A), coolant temp sensor (ECT I believe) to PCM
- Two wires (F7DZ-10884-AA) and then the thermostat.
- Throughout this time the heater worked perfectly fine. The temperature gauge would get up to C but never very far from it. I would never get to the middle.
In doing so I drained the coolant took off the intake hose (cleaned the butterfly valve in the process) then got clean access to the sensors and the two 10mm screws for the thermostat. I got it all off and apart just fine minus the one stubborn plug on the sending unit (single wire). Putting the sensors back in took more effort then taking them out it could have been the anti-seize or thread sealant that came on it. Anyways, I also noticed that BOTH the new sensors I picked up from the dealership looked identical. Both of them looked similar to this:
Granted the tops were different colors but the ends (metal) were the same or at least I couldn't tell the difference. The ones I took out of the block were definitely different. The sender (single wire) looked like the one above but the sensor looked like this with the pointed tip (I can upload pictures too):
I put the coolant temp sensor in first (two wires) and the plug went on fine. Put the sender (single wire) in and I couldn't get the cap on... it was too tight. I looked at the old one and it seemed like one of the ribs to guide the plug on was off by the thickness of the rib... I tried again and thought maybe it was me and eventually cracked the cap.
Now the coolant gauge doesn't work at all doesn't even move. I then got it scanned and saw P0117 come up... Is this for the sender (1 wire) or the sensor (2 wires). Also I read that once P0017 comes up it could be difficult to start the truck... I thought it was because there was gunk left over from me cleaning the butterfly valve but that may be it instead.
My questions are... Did I mix the sensors up? I really don't think so I double checked before I put them in that only one was open at a time. Was I given the wrong sensor for the coolant temp as it looked different at the tip? I have no clue? Looking at threads for P0117 it seems to be the sensor. I will be going back to Ford tomorrow am to take the old ones in to check. Why wouldn't the plug fit on the sender (single wire)?... I have no clue.
View 14 Replies
My 92 ranger, 2wd, 6 cyl, manual trans, is running at about 3500 rpm at idle. I was wondering what might be the cause, maybe something with the throttle or could the gauge be screwed up.
View 14 Replies
Today on my way to work my 1993 ford ranger would shift fine but would refuse to go over 35mph and shook pretty bad. I don't know where to start...
View 6 Replies
So my new/old 2004 has another issue. Parked at the grocery store tonight on a very slight incline backwards. Put the Ranger in park (automatic shift) and before I could fully engage the parking brake it began to roll back with a clunk, clunk, clunk as if popping out of gear.
Need less to say I moved to another spot that was more level. Just an hour before I parked the same way on a steeper incline and did not get this. Now I need to watch this carefully until resolved. How to remedy this issue.
View 3 Replies
I have this problem with my 2001 Santa fe 2.7 Lt auto done 326,000 km no power on hills sometime want rev past 3500 revs and sometimes will rev past this, it seem to get worse when fitted new fuel filter in the tank? have put new filters and O rings in injections, have just fitted new coils and the cat has no restriction. Starts first time but did have trouble the auto would not start in park until pulled top cover and got it out of park and started it in neutral changed the trans fluid and seems to move through the selection better. Could it be the fuel pump??
View 4 Replies
I've got an issue with my 92 2.3 ranger.... sitting at idle for 30 or so seconds it starts to chug and sometimes dies.... I can hit the throttle and its fine for another 30 or so seconds.... while cruising on the freeway after about 30 minutes it starts to cut out badly... let out of throttle for a few seconds and it clears up and drives fine...
Here's the part that has me confused... pulled codes yesterday using a innova scan tool...
koeo were 4, 10, and 538...
koer were 111, 10, 157, 158, 181, 327, 328, and 334....
How does it give me a 111 pass code and then still come up with all the other codes? I am thinking my ecu may be screwed.....
View 4 Replies
Went to work one day and went to put my truck in park and it went as far as reverse. It has alot of play in the shifter. I have had a couple of people look at it and said that they would not touch it because of the air bag. I am not afraid to work on it myself if I just knew what to do. I am a single mom and on a budget, I would rather do it myself.
View 6 Replies
I have a '97 Ford Ranger with an automatic transmission that wouldn't shift out of park last night. A friend opened the hood and jiggled the steering column some, and finally it shifted. We checked the transmission fluid and it is full, a dark brown color. What the problem might be?
View 3 Replies
I own a 2001 Jetta GLX 12v VR6, lately the car has not been running well. It chokes the power past 3500 rpm's and will continue running poorly and sound sort of like a Subaru boxer engine. Sometimes it corrects itself and runs okay but goes back and forth.
I ran the codes on VAG COM:
6 faults found:
17551 - Load calculation cross check
P1143 - 35 - 10 upper limit exceeded - intermittent
16712 - Knock Sensor 1 (g61)
P0328 - 35 - 10 Signal too high - intermittent
[Code] .....
I ran VAG COM a couple of days before these codes came up and I had a different code dealing with air/fuel mixture, something about fuel running to rich. I'm stumped.
View 9 Replies
So over the last couple of days my GTi has been hesitating as I accelerated past 2500-3500 rpms so I took it in to the dealer this morning to have them look at and sure enough, it had blown an Ignition Coil.
I know this was a common issue with the 1.8l Turbo engines but I thought this had been corrected in the new models.
I have a '10 GTi with 14000 km's on it and some mods (see signature). And no, they didn't comment or ask about the APR chip or intake.
View 16 Replies
Why my trucks engine is cutting out. idles fine and runs fine when on the road, it only stalls in park if i rev the engine, and it stalls immediately when i put it in reverse.
I took it to a shop and they scanned it and said it was a o2 sensor problem. replaced both o2 sensors(they were both bad) but no luck there, still having issues.
View 2 Replies
2007 Ranger 4.0l, idles rough at low rpm, in park or drive, with or without the AC on.
View 1 Replies
The trucks seems to Idle Rough in Park and Drive, Cold or Hot. It mellows out as soon as I give it gas but at stop lights or in park it goes back to a seemingly rough idle.
This is my first Ford Ranger and dont know if its normal. No code or dummy lights.
2007 2WD 4cyl
View 2 Replies
"95, 2.3L, automatic. Stalls for a couple of seconds and nearly dies when shifting from drive to neutral or from drive to park. Doesn't do it when cold at high idle or when AC is on. It catches back up and idles fine but nearly dies when coming out of drive. Installed a new idle air control valve but no change.
View 1 Replies
It's a few times in the past 2 weeks, the shift lever won't come out of PARK easily. Sometimes I have to wiggle the shifter for quite awhile before I can get the shifter to shift out of PARK. It also doesn't start when that happens, like everything works but it doesn't start. It's like it's locked. It finally lets go and I can start it and put it in Drive and Reverse and go on my way. But there's not set thing that I can do to make it work.
It's just luckily let me go the few times it's happened. We replaced the shift cable about 1.5-2 years ago and of course the cable is out of warranty. But even if it's the cable, it's definitely going into park because you can hear the click when you stop the truck and turn it off, and throw it into PARK. But when the shift get's stuck it won't crank or make any kind of cranking noise, it's like the battery is dead but it isn't. When it happens you can't even shift it out of PARK to try and start it in D or R.
So I was thinking something could be going on with the NSS. Is there any kind of brake pedal interlock switch on a 98 Ranger? I notice when I start it and press the brake pedal it clicks loud under the dash, which I don't remember hearing always. But maybe it always makes that click when you hit the pedal because I usually always have the radio on. What I can do if the shift gets stuck when I go to leave work? What do I need to look at to determine the problem?
View 3 Replies
So I turned off my truck the other day, got out, and it started again on its own. Confused, I looked in my hand to see my key. I got back in, and tapped the brake thinking the command start had engaged, even though I did not have the remote with me. It continued to run. So I put the key back in the ignition, turned it to ON and back OFF. It still ran. I had to run inside for a half a minute so I left it running.
Came back and drove away with no issues. When I stopped again about 2 minutes later and shifted to PARK, the starter engaged making it's terrible 'hey stupid, I'm already running' sound. I tried shutting it OFF quickly but it still ran and made it's skinning crawling noise. So I quickly shifted back to DRIVE. All the gears worked fine but PARK and NEUTRAL had the starter engaging. I also could not shut the truck off from DRIVE as the key would not turn.
I drove over to a local garage and called them from the truck as I was effectively trapped in the truck with my foot on the brake, unable to shift to PARK or turn it OFF. No supporting staff. So I drove back to work where I had a co-worker remove the battery cable at which point I was able to shift to PARK and turn OFF the truck. I let it sit like that for about 10 minutes and haven't had a problem since.
What happened?? And for the record I can put gas in the tank and changed my own oil, but that is the extent of my vehicle knowledge.
View 14 Replies
On my '96 ranger with an automatic the reverse lights only come on between park and reverse, but once put into reverse they go out. The gear selector on the dash reads right, when the needle is on"P"it's in park, "R" drops into reverse and so forth. Do I need to adjust the shifter cable on the side of the transmission? If so how do I do this (I kinda need step by step with removal and adjusting, I've already tried and couldn't get it off the bracket). It's starting to drive me nuts, I've searched on the web for hours with no luck. I've even posted on other sites with zero answers.
View 7 Replies
I have a 1998 ford f150 with a 4.6 v8 it has about 170,000 miles on it. The truck seems to run hot when sitting still in park. I have replaced the radiator, the thermostat. I am lost at what could be causing this issue. when I am going the truck will cool down however if you ever let it get hot it takes longer to cool it down as opposed to getting in it and just going and not sitting before going.
View 11 Replies
My automatic 2007 Nissan Altima has developed an intermittent problem when I go to shift it into park it won't shift down past neutral. I can't physically move the gear shift past neutral and can't take my key out of the car. If I wait awhile or drive off somewhere else it will later allow me to shift normally again and won't happen for awhile. It has happened maybe 8-9 times but I worry it will get worse or break the transmission. I've taken it to a mechanic and they looked at the transmission and didn't see a problem but sense they couldn't recreate the issue they couldn't fix it.
View 1 Replies
I have a 09' 4cyl automatic engine with 54k.
About 30min ago when when I parked the shifter would not move past neutral into reverse and go into park. I can go from D into neutral or the next slot over for manual shifting. Naturally this causes a problem as you can't take the key out of the ignition if its not in park.
I took a screw driver and popped open the cap for the shift release button and used that to move it into park. Turned car off, back on, etc etc seemed fine. So when I tried moving it into reverse and it wouldn't budge. It instead would make a electronic click or snap coming form the steering column but more back toward the engine. Like more into the dash area but back in it. It would make this noise every time I attempted to move it but it wasn't a continuous sound. Just once with each jerk to the side to move it out of park.
So the car works fine except for this. I used it with the screw driver/shift release to unlock it and it drives fine. Goes into reverse and back in park but if I move it into neutral or drive it will not go back into reverse or park.
View 1 Replies
