I had a slight noise from the waterpump area for a while, was waiting for it to fail but instead it was the clutched fan bearings. How difficult is it to repair? And could there be a recall on this, the ranger has 51,00 miles and its all easy miles. 2004 ranger 2.3 clutched fan bearing failure ...
View 14 RepliesPlan on changing my water pump in the next day or two. Truck is a 2000 Ranger, 2.5L with 185,000+ miles. Just wondering if there are any hints/gotcha's that may not be in the manual.
Any advice on bleeding the coolant after I get it back together?
One last issue with my 2000 B3000 3.0L. The leak seems to be on the left (passenger) side of the water pump very near where the bottom radiator hose connects to it. I can't find any loose bolts. It does not leak while driving the truck or soon after. It has to sit for several hours or overnight before it shows up. There are usually 3 or 4 wet spots where it drips from the water pump to the frame to the driveway. It is small enough that I only have to fill up my coolant tank every 1 or 2 months. Could this just be a small gasket leak? It's been happening for about a year or so I think. I replaced the radiator about 2 years ago. I've been expecting it to get worse or bust loose and have been checking it very often. I've never seen one not leak while running like this-has me puzzled.
View 6 Replies...... 2010 Corolla LE 1.8L ...... View the video I uploaded ....... The noise is seems to be getting worse. My first thought is the bearings in the water pump may have failed. I'm also thinking that there isn't adequate lubrication near the gear assembly or the belt. Could there be a problem with the tension in the belt?
View 7 RepliesI just bought a used 2009 corolla, turns out a few weeks in, I am getting the infamous water pump/ac compressor clicking noise from the drive belt area.
View 3 RepliesI have a slight squeak noise that is only heard at idle some of the time. I replaced the belt, idler, and tensioner when I noticed just spinning the alternator gives the sound I'm hearing. Is it something I should be concerned about? It isn't noisy all the time, only sometimes. I don't want to fix what isn't broken, but I don't want it to leave me stranded one day either.
View 3 RepliesMy daughter's boyfriend just bought a 2000 ranger with a 2.5. We just put a flexplate in it and it wouldn't start. Just turned over. Listened for the fuel pump and no noise. After a few minutes, it worked. He drove it home last night and said that it didn't want to work first try but worked with the second try. He drove it to church, 40 miles, and it sit for around two hours and wouldn't start, no matter how many tries.
We tried changing the relays around with no luck. We went and eat lunch and back to the truck with a rubber hammer. Then it starts on the second try without using the hammer. We got under it and cleaned the connections up and put some bulb grease on them. I couldn't get the one apart right on top of the pump itself, I was afraid of breaking it. It's been doing fine since we left the church before we cleaned the connections.
I got a 08 F150 with a V6. It's making a very loud and annoying noise that sounds a lot like a bad steering pump, but it's coming from the water pump. I'll be cruising at about 2000 rpm and the noise will start all of a sudden. I step on the clutch and let the rpm drop to idle, and the noise tapers off as the rpm drops and then stops completely. I bring the rpm back up, and there's no noise. There is absolutely no play in the water pump bearing, no leakage from the weep hole, no overheating.
View 2 RepliesI own a 2004 V8 and when I have the air going I get a buzzing noise coming from the water pump or something. What is this and is it normal..
View 7 RepliesI just bought a 2000 Ranger 4.0, and it runs great. There is "no check engine" light and the mpg are reasonable. My temperature gauge never gets into the normal range, its always low. I believe this is related to the water pump kicking on and off constantly. There is plenty of heat coming from the vents. Do I have a bad thermostat or coolant temperature sensor?
View 12 RepliesLooks like my mystery growling noise at idle is the WP going bad. Not leaking but making a racket at idle.
View 19 RepliesI've got a grinding noise coming from near my water pump. replaced the serpentine belt w no luck. it's got 212,000 miles on it so I'm guessing the water pump is going bad.
View 14 RepliesMy wife calls me yesterday and said she could hear a rattling noise from the engine area, but no other issues presented themselves. Later, I checked the engine compartment for the noise with the engine on and found that the noise was coming from the area of the engine water pump/idler pulley but i couldn't really narrow it much closer. The noise honestly sounds like bearings about to go out. I did see that behind the water pump pulley there was a small buildup of corrosion on the water pump, but no apparent leaks or wetness. The car has the original water pump and idler pulley with 140k. I plan on replacing the water pump, idler pulley and thermostat in the morning. Or is this overkill? I don't want to lose the engine nor do I want my wife to get stranded anywhere.
View 9 RepliesMy 2005 Prius sounds louder to me than normal. The car has 117,000 miles on it and is in great condition. Anyways I can hear, maybe, on the gas engine what sounds like a bad water pump or tension pulley, not sure though? I checked the water pump area and there is no visible signs of a leak or dried pink coolant. If the water pump is indeed bad what can I expect at the Toyota dealership cost wise?
View 18 RepliesI am still getting the CEL codes for the Secondary Intake Air Pump after I noticed the water in the passenger foot area. I clear the CEL but it comes back on again after a few days. I am now trying to trouble shoot the issue. When I start the engine cold I do NOT hear the blower come on the first minute the engine is on. That tells me the Secondary air intake pump is not turning on. Next I must check the relay or fuse tied to the pump. Which relay or fuse number it is and where it is located exactly?
If the fuse/relay is not the issue, how difficult it will be to change this pump and where it is located exactly?
Recently, I bought a new-to-me 1994 Jaguar XJ6 which had a small laundry list of things that needed work. Amongst them was to have the waterpump and belt replaced. Long story short, after getting it back from the shop (I'm a repeat customer) and 50 miles down the road, I checked things out under the hood. I saw that there was a small bit of coolant sitting on top of the pump where the mating surfaces meet. It appeared that was some weeping from the gasket. I'm a little perplexed because this shop hasn't done wrong by me before, but there's a first time for everything. Is it possible that the cold weather in North Dakota (routinely -10) is a factor? It doesn't appear to be a catastrophic leak by any means, but I intend to keep my eye on in it. In the mean time, I made sure the bolts nearest the leak were adequately tight and put some red RTV sealant where it was leaking. Is it possible this problem will "go away" or do I have to try to shake down the shop and get them to re-check it/fix it? Frankly, I'd rather not have to deal with them again, but I paid them good money to get it fixed.
View 6 Replies2002 Ranger XLT, Super Cab, 4X4, 4.0L SOHC V-6, 5-speed manual transmission. Noticed burnt oil smell. Checking under truck revealed oil drips on garage floor from rear area of engine. Traced to rear corner of left valve cover, but can't see enough of the rear of the engine top-end to say for sure where it may be coming from.
Before I put the truck in the shop for repair, where the oil may potentially be coming from on this particular engine? (I checked; the valve cover fasteners are secure) Any "chronic" oil leak problems with this model engine, or anything?
Recently blew the belt that runs the water pump, etc while on a vacation. Had to leave the car at a small mechanic in Winthrop, WA. He replaced the Water pump which had gone bad and the belt that shredded. The car ran beautifully for a week. Now there is this constant rattling sound coming from the water pump area. I attached a video with the sound. The sound will quicken as you accelerate. At cold start up it is usually not present then starts a couple of minutes in.
View 2 RepliesMy audi runs great. Its has 170K miles on it. My mechanic replaced an air pump last Friday and by Monday I had a new issue. I noticed coolant leaking. I took it back to the mechanic who fixed the airpump to diagnose. He tells me that the leak is coming from the timing belt/water pump area and in order to get there it takes 7 hrs. He suspects that its the water pump or a cylinder block crack. He suspects it could be a water pump breakdown more than a block crack. A block crack could be a serious issue with the engine is what I suspect.
I think he did something wrong when he replaced the air pump. He tells me that these are in two different areas and that he canbe generous with his time in only diagnosis but not in fixing the problem. Do you think he is right ?
He recommends that when they open the timing belt cover its best to replace the belt, tensioners, water pump etc.. Now spending $ to get to know where the leak is sounds steep.
Have a 99, ext cab, 3.0 , 5 spd man. 125,000 on it. I know the clutch will need replaced shortly but so far it is still functioning with out the slipping. Although I can feel a slight vibration, or buzz when I up shift. My immediate concern is the clattering/rattling. say at idle, not moving with the clutch pushed in when I shift into 2nd and 4th gear it really rattles loud. I can only assume it is some bearing inside the transmission, but need to have a bit more surety as to the problem. I know, I need to do the clutch however i don't know if the transmission is going bad or is that noise in the clutch area.
View 2 Replies2004 auto ranger 120k miles
When I bought it there was a lifter making a tap tap tap. Its not all the time or consistent which makes me feel its a failed lifter as opposed to a rocker arm that is loose. Ive tried the "stuff" in the oil. Seafoam, marvel mystery, etc with no luck. So this coming winter Im going to break it down and replace the lifter.
First question. I havent put a stethoscope on it or used the "hose to ear" method to track down which one it is. Im pretty sure its the right bank in the front. Will it be obvious which one it is when I get it broken down?
Next. At 120k miles should I be worried about the other lifters? Ive never had one fail on anything I own and hardly ever hear them on other cars. I pretty much thought that hydraulic lifters were failproof anymore. Should I be worried about the others?
Next next, do I need to be worried about damage to the pushrod and or rocker arm? Should I be prepared to replace those as well? Finally anything else to be concerned about or consider?