Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2004 - Lifter Making Tap Noise
Aug 31, 2017
2004 auto ranger 120k miles
When I bought it there was a lifter making a tap tap tap. Its not all the time or consistent which makes me feel its a failed lifter as opposed to a rocker arm that is loose. Ive tried the "stuff" in the oil. Seafoam, marvel mystery, etc with no luck. So this coming winter Im going to break it down and replace the lifter.
First question. I havent put a stethoscope on it or used the "hose to ear" method to track down which one it is. Im pretty sure its the right bank in the front. Will it be obvious which one it is when I get it broken down?
Next. At 120k miles should I be worried about the other lifters? Ive never had one fail on anything I own and hardly ever hear them on other cars. I pretty much thought that hydraulic lifters were failproof anymore. Should I be worried about the others?
Next next, do I need to be worried about damage to the pushrod and or rocker arm? Should I be prepared to replace those as well? Finally anything else to be concerned about or consider?
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I've got a '94 Ranger with the 4.0L OHV and an Automatic trans. When I start, hot or cold, it has quick lifter knock for only a fraction of a second. This same knock comes back if I hold the throttle over 3K with NO LOAD on the engine. With any load, I cannot make it knock. With no load, though, it becomes very loud, especially with more RPMs. at idle and slightly above, there is a slight tick that can only be heard with the bonnet up, and then it is only slightly noticeable. I think that this tick is unrelated, but I figured I should share that information. For oil, I run Pennzoil high mileage 10W-30, changed 3000 miles religiously. Purolator filter, PL30001. I can understand the startup knock, but I can't see why it seems to produce the same knock at high RPMs under NO load.
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The truck just won't turn over makes a rrrgh rrrgh noice like it wants to start, I push the gas peddle to the floor and I should smell a lot of gas but don't!!! I added oil when it died at the store last night and it started up but the oil stick indicates oil is fine??? Pulled the diode out this morning put it back in the truck would not start just made that noise but turned it off and reseated the diode and it started??? These things may or may not have anything to do with the problem. Could it be electrical or oil pressure gauge sticking or something else that I could tell my mechanic and he could fix so I don't get stuck????
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I have a 1998 Volvo S70 with 140k. 2.5 litre 5cyl automatic. For sometime now my lifters have been making noise especially at start up. I'm up to date on my oil servicing using Volvo filters and a 20-50w motor oil ( as recommended by my mechanic ) but still the noise continues. In the past I have used additives to the oil but still the problem continues. Maybe I'm using the wrong one.
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The T/O bearing makes a high pitch squeal until you put light pressure on clutch then it will go away. Does this thing have a preload on bearing at all times or should there be free play like in the old days??
Another thing that has me wondering is when I push clutch all the way in it actually puts a load on the engine. Having T/O bearing so bad it puts a load on the engine?
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I have a 2003 ford ranger xlt 4.0L and here recently my ac compressor has been making a loud click noise engaging even though i am not using heat or AC, so when it engages the rpms drop and almost wants to stall and it does this in about 10-15 sec. intervals, but when I am driving it acts fine. What is going on here, I recently had a vacuum leak and i found it and fixed it, and now this issue just started.
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My car is making the dreaded lifter tick noise. The dealerhip is telling me that my lifters need to be replaced at a cost of $1200. I have been letting my car warm up for about 15 minutes before driving because I cannot stand that noise. I am living near Charlotte, NC and would like to know if there is a cheaper fix for my problem.
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As everyone can probably tell, I migrated from the 6.0 Diesel section. A few weeks ago I bought myself a 2008 F250 with a 5.4. I do have several questions: It is a 2008 with 116,000 miles on the odometer
The guy I bought it from had replaced the engine in it. The tag on the engine indicates a build date of 4-21-06. It supposedly had 40,000 miles on it. He told me that the mechanic that installed it replaced the spark plugs and replaced one of the timing chain guides.
What model year would the engine be considered for replacement parts and trouble shooting?
I do hear, what I would describe from the old days as lifter noise. It is not a ticking, but more of a swooshing, RPM specific, that is slightly louder when the engine is cold vs. warm. RPM at idle is perfect at 640, fluctuating only about 5-10. It idles very smooth, hardly detectable.
I do not know what kind of oil was used in the truck, but the filter was after market. I changed it to 5W20 with a **** filter the day after I bought it.
The rear end is geared 3.73, and coming from a chipped diesel, this one seems sluggish. I realize this is a very heavy truck for the engine, but should it feel heavy. The "lie o meter" tells me my MPG is 9.4 driving in the city. Have not yet had a good chance to take it on the highway.
So, to summarize in trying to learn the 5.4. What would the model year be considered. What should I check with the swooshing/lifter noise.
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I had a slight noise from the waterpump area for a while, was waiting for it to fail but instead it was the clutched fan bearings. How difficult is it to repair? And could there be a recall on this, the ranger has 51,00 miles and its all easy miles. 2004 ranger 2.3 clutched fan bearing failure ...
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My 2007 3.0L XLT 2WD Ranger with 7.5" traction-lock differential started making expensive noises last weekend coming from the rear end. Shop has not yet opened up the differential because the initial though was just do a swap.
Turns out that 7.5" LS is hard to find, plenty of open diffs available. So I suggested that I'd rather swap in an 8.8" LS rear end anyway but turns out that these are also hard to find. Was a LS rear end option just not very common? or do these get scooped up just as fast as they become available?
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My 1999 Ranger with 4.0 EFI V6 engine makes a "sucking sound" occasionally. At first I thought it was a belt slipping, but now I believe it is some kind of intake air leak. If I stop the truck while the sound is on, I can open my driver's door and get to about the front of the hood before the sound stops. I have never been able to observe the engine with the "sucking sound" on. Sometimes the engine will kill when the "sucking sound" stops, if the engine is idling and in gear. If I just keep driving normally, there does not seem to be any permanent problem. What the problem is?
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2004 Ranger Edge 2wd 3.0L. When the truck has been sitting for a while and i start moving forward there is a very loud sound of metal on metal. Changed the diff fluid last week, used royal purple 75-140 with the friction additive. No change, tried to take rear wheels off, but the drums are stuck by the pads. I was able to get the drums off only bout an inch.
Recently, I've noticed that on hard acceleration the RPM go up but it seems sluggish on acceleration. There is also a vibration that comes from the rear and goes away when i remove my foot from the accelerator. The squeal happens between 15 and 20 mph, but goes away fairly quickly. The vibration happens around 40 or so. I am thinking rear axle bearings? But i cant get my drums off to replace the bearings.
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1990 Ranger 5 speed... The tranny has recently started making noises, first I thought it was the throw out bearing but I am afraid it is more than that. As I go thru the gears the trans makes rattling/grinding sounds: in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 5th it is loud but 4th it is quiet. What might be going on inside the tranny....
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I have a 98 Ranger 4x4 XLT 4.0 5sp. It has 182K miles.
Once in a while it will blow the fuel pump fuse. It'll go 2 years sometimes. And sometimes the engine will stall just for a second making the truck "buck" as it accelerates.
Could it be the pump is about to fail? How long do they normally last? Btw, I change my fuel filter every 2 years, no issue there.
I've owned the truck since new and maintenance is always taken care of. Also, What's the best way to change the pump?
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So my new/old 2004 has another issue. Parked at the grocery store tonight on a very slight incline backwards. Put the Ranger in park (automatic shift) and before I could fully engage the parking brake it began to roll back with a clunk, clunk, clunk as if popping out of gear.
Need less to say I moved to another spot that was more level. Just an hour before I parked the same way on a steeper incline and did not get this. Now I need to watch this carefully until resolved. How to remedy this issue.
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I was pulling out of a parking lot making a sharp turn when all the sudden I lost my power steering. I have a '94 Ford Ranger manual transmission. It didn't make any sounds. I was going to try to keep adding power steering fluid to it and try to get it home to my mechanic in my hometown - but it drips constant liquid when I drive it down the street (you can see drips) so I don't think that's possible. I've read a lot on here about gear boxes failing, but would this cause it to leak even if the truck wasn't running? (the puddle builds quickly when its just sitting there, engine off). I took it to a mechanic (I don't have tools), and they said they can't say anything for sure until they look around, it could be seals or a new gear box.
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When I get over 45MPH, I notice a whop, whop sound. It speeds up as my speed increases. I have had the tires check and rebalanced, but that wasn't it. I have tried just revving the engine when in neutral, but I don't hear the noise. Could it be u-joints, or is there something else?
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Driving home from work (a 30 minute hwy cruise) I had to stop for a traffic light. As was sitting there I hear a thumping noise from under the hood, otherwise it was running the same as always. Got it home and I didn't hear it anymore, looked under the hood while idling, seen nothing, shut it off. top rad hose had a slight amount of pressure, started it and it quickly built pressure and felt a rhythmic thumping in hose and it got fricking hot quickly. I figure either a head gasket or cracked head.
I just recently did an aggressive cooling system flush using Prestone heavy duty cooling system flush (can only get this at a dealer) because the previous own neglected it, and it blew a head gasket, tons of rust inside when I did it. I'm gonna borrow a tester to check for exhaust gas in the cooling system and what did it end up being? The guy I bought it from (the previous owners mechanic) put 1 or 2 head gaskets on it.
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So my ranger was having a textbook wheel-bearing noise at around 50mph....when I turned to the right the noise went away implicating a passenger side wheel bearing.
So I replaced both of the hub bearings on the pass side and noticed that the front axle shaft u-joint right behind the spindle was really bad and was going to change it but couldn't get the spindle off so I said screw it.
Took it for a drive and the noise is still there. Could a worn u-joint possible replicate a wheel bearing noise? I am used to them making a clicking/popping noise while turning when they're bad, but not a whirring sound.
1993 ranger 4x4 manual locking hubs.
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I have a 89 Ranger, 2.3, 2wd, Mazda 5 spd. Last year, 10,000 miles ago, I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, slave cyl, and pilot bearing. Today, it started making a terrible grinding sound/vibration when you let off the gas. The noise is coming from the clutch/transmission area. It is so bad that any amount of "engine braking" sounds terrible and I have to press the clutch in and the noise immediately stops. What to check for?
The only thing I can think of off the cuff is
1) bad pilot bearing,
2) low/no tranny oil. I replaced the oil and put silicone on the known leaky spots while I had the tranny out,
3) Input shaft had some "wobble" in it when I had the tranny out to replace clutch 10,000 miles ago.
This could be it but why would it start 10k miles later?
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Had the top half of the intake off (2.3L) and fixed some vacuum leaks and replaced a power steering pump. Started truck and it ran funny like missing on one cylinder then cleared up then started making a loud knocking noise and running rough. Assumed that it swallowed something when I had the intake off and it got into a valve or into the cylinder. I pulled the plugs and there are no obvious signs of a problem. I also did a compression test and all 4 were around 150psi.
Put the plugs back in and started it and the same noise was there. Removed the serpent belt just in case it was power steering pump related and the noise was still there when I started the truck. Sounds like something is inside the engine still. Going to get a friends bore scope to check further. I guess I will split the manifold again and run the scope in there. Pending that I may also look down the plug holes with the scope. This is a major bummer. Not what I needed.
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