Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2004 - Hard Starting / Rough Idling / No RPMs
Mar 31, 2016
backed out of the garage fine later in the day went to put it away started hard would not idle and only rev to 2500 .cleaned map sensor,egg valve tested and it works.cleaned the IAC and that works ,fuel pressure is 58psi. starts hard it would idle now it doesn't dies, no code . with 58psi could the pump still be bad? it has 18 pounds of vacuum. where is the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator on the motor?
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I have a 2006 Ranger XLT 3.0 that is vibrating hard/rough idling, cel is on (solid, not flashing), has trouble accelerating with pedal punched. Will sometimes get a sudden burst when pedal is punched with rpms going up but most of the time no to slow raise of rpms with pedal engaged. Hooked code reader up to it and read ignition coil. Replaced the coil and changed plugs and wires. Truck still not running right. what gives? Is this a fuel pump, cats clogged, cylinder issue?
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Ok, I replaced the head gaskets on this truck a couple years back and now I am having symptoms similar to the ones I was having then. I am not entirely convinced that this is what is wrong however.
Symptoms:
Truck was idling rough until it warmed up
Truck takes forever to warm up or simply does not warm up
If/when it warms up it operates at higher than normal temp/almost overheats(it hasn't overheated yet)
Heater blows very cold air
White smoke(has been cold outside so not sure if due to temp or coolant)
Overflow bubbled when I shut the truck off, but it has only happened once so far
I am kind of at a loss, but like I said am suspicious of the head gaskets.
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1990 Ranger 2.3L 4 cylinder. The truck idles so rough it dies. It runs fine going down the road it just seems to "load up" at idle. I know there are hundreds of things that it could be, I just hate to start throwing parts at it. It is definitely running rich at idle.
It is one of those trucks that we have replaced a lot of parts. The scan tool said something about setting the timing??? Is there a way to set the timing? There is no distributor, and it is the one with 2 coils and 8 plugs.
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Finally back able to start working on the Ranger and have a few questions.
When I got this thing back from my son it was running rough. I've fixed all the codes it was getting so no luck there now. Not sure how to explain it but, it feels like it is cutting back when driving at a steady speed and it idles rough. Not really like a miss but more like a hesitation when driving.
I've cleaned the MAP and IAC and changed the fuel filter. I also pulled the plugs and they looked good. My son installed new plugs and wires but he used the E3's and not sure how, or if, you're suppose to set the gap. I haven't checked the PCV yet because haven't figured out how exactly you get it out without pulling the intake.
So, where to look next? I'm kind of thinking the cam sensor but think I'll leave that to a shop sense I want the shaft replaced at the same time.
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I own a 2003 3.o v-6 ranger, after a short or long drive, my truck has a hard time starting.. Starts fine before any driving..
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1999 B3000 with a 3.0. The truck idles at 850rpms. When it starts it idles at around 1000 and runs very rough. When I disconnect the IAC the engine dies. The AC also has problems it blows cold at idle but at highway speeds after 7-8 minutes running the compressor kicks out. One can turn it off and it blows cold again after a few minutes.
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1995 ford ranger with 4.0. It idles rough. Replaced MAF TPS fuel pump fuel filter fuel pressure regulator upper o2 sensor. IAC.. still idles rough RPMs drop. It isn't as bad since replacing MAF but still not right. What else is there.. Cleaned out the air intake port it was gummed up. Don't know what else to do?
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Recently bought a 96 4 cylinder 5speed 2wd ranger. 200xxx miles on it and its former owner had a young guy change spark plugs . Truck ran fine before, but after is when the rough running showed up.
A quick check of the plug wires and there locations looked correct and also tested the wires for spark with a timing light attached to them, checked shows all are firing.
Seems to smooth out a bit when rpm's are raised up, but still acts like not running smooth.
I swapped out plugs. Looks like they haven't been changed in a long time .Some of the straps are burnt and are shorter than they should be, but still runs rough, very little improvement .
Check vacuum lines for leaks/breaks and all looked good. removed line off brake booster and plugged, didn't matter.
It doesn't throw and check engine lights. It does smooth out some as the rpm's rise, but still not smooth .
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1987 Ranger and the computer will not communicate. I'm trying to check for codes because of a rough idle and stumble when starting out from a stop. Check engine works but won't flash when using a jumper across the data link. Used a OTC scanner but it only times out and comes up "no data". Where to go from here?
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I have a 98 ranger with 2.5 and 225k mostly trouble free miles. This engine has never used a drop of oil and ran good. In Dec 3 miles from work started running poorly and sounded to knock the more I asked for power. The CEL started flashing I made it to work and it idled rough but more rpms smoothed out. Took it to mechanic says he did a compression check with little or no compression on #1 & #2. #3 & #4 fine must have broke rings. Doesn't seem right to lose 2 cylinders at the same time out of the blue. Could anything else be causing these symptoms or time for a heart transplant? He hasn't opened anything up yet.
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2001 Ranger Edge 3.0. Like the title says, when I start my ranger it idles really rough. If I give it gas it shudders like it's gonna die. After about 2-3 minutes it smooths out. If I'm on the interstate and down shift to pass someone, while accelerating it feels like I have a misfire (no CEL given) not all the time though. I've changed plugs and wires and it stopped doing it so I thought I had it but, it continued a few days later. Then I changed the fuel filter and it stopped again for a few days. Well it's back again. I'm thinking it's the fuel pump but I wanted to check here before I take my truck bed off. I also checked for vac leaks and I'm all good there.
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My '04 Ranger has over 240k on the odometer. Runs great and has never given me any issues. Everything checks out OK - all the fluids, filters, and whatnot are in good shape. No CEL or any other indication that anything is wrong (except for maybe the IAC valve and clutch slave.)
I've noticed, though, that when I fire it up in the mornings to let it warm up while I scrape the ice and snow off the windows, the heat/defrost will not blow warm air. It doesn't matter how long I let it sit, it will only blow ambient air through the ducts.
When I get going down the road, however, the heat kicks in, after a bit, and works very well!
I've not found anything that would indicate an issue with the blend door or any other component and this is the first vehicle I've had that did this.
Is it normal for a 4.0 SOHC Ranger to do this? Or is there something I'm missing?... It's not really that big of a deal, but I do find it a bit odd that it would do this.
I mentioned the IAC above - I think it's "sticking" every once in a while and, when it does, I'll hear a loud "thump" right before it idles down to around 1k rpm. I can't see how this would affect the heat, though...
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I am currently working on a 97 ranger with a 4cyl and 5 speed. its having some idle issues that i cant seem to pin point, you can start it and it will idle rough then when you rev it up it chugs real hard then dies. used my scan tool and all the sensors are good, fuel pressure is good, good compression, all 8 plugs are firing good and no codes. The other deal that has me a little confused is when I unhook the hose that runs from the air intake tube to the valve cover, I get a lot of vacuum at that port on the valve cover that the hose hooks to. Also when I plug it and pull the dipstick, I get vacuum at the dipstick tube. never seen this before but at the same time I've only messed with very few of these trucks so I don't know whats normal.
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I have recently come across a strange problem. Only occurs after car has been turned off and sitting for 1-2 hours. Weather not affecting and sitting overnight, car starts normal and nice.
After the 1-2 hours of sitting, engine will turn over not the 2 or 3 usual times for ignition, but needing 10-12 times to finally start. Then it starts very poorly by making a sputtering sound and only idling at 200-500 rpms, instead of the usual instant 1000 rpms. This is very annoying and a few times the engine has turned over 10-12 times and didn't start at all. When a person starts the car up every 1 to 2 hours, say on a busy errand weekend, it pretty much occurs each time. When my wife uses the car just in the morning for work and at the end of the work day, it is not noticed for some reason....
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It's a 4 cylinder 5 speed, and once or twice a day when the light turns green and I go to put it in low gear, it just doesn't want to go into gear easy. It's like the syncro isn't happy or something. The clutch is depressed all the way and not dragging.
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My Daughters 2004 Ranger has about 195K the power steering reservoir is full it turns to the left as it should (assisted power steering) turning to right there is no power steering (manual Rack) I am thinking the issue is most likely in the steering rack..
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My 2005 STX 4.6 fuel pump crashed a couple of months ago. A couple of days after having it replaced I started having hard/rough starting problems accompanied by a 0300 and 0301 code. I reset the codes several times and they only come back during the 3rd or 4th hard start, never while driving. The hard starts occur after the engine is shut off for more than a few minutes after driving. I have replaced the plugs, #1 COP, remaining COP boots, Cam Pos Sensor, Fuel pump drive module and had and FI. Also had the fuel pump replaced again on warranty thinking maybe a bad check valve. Again...it worked perfectly for a day and now I'm back to square one. Haven't gotten any codes YET but its only been a day. Bad injector? EGR?
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I have a 2005 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6 2wd Edge, with around 175,000 miles. It runs great, however the RPM's are slow to return and it seems to idle a little high for longer than you would expect when starting the engine. For example, exiting off the freeway with the clutch depressed, the RPM's will drop from approximately 2300, pause at 1800 for a second, then drop and pause at 1100 for a few seconds before returning to idle. If stationary and rev the engine, they seem to drop back normally.
So far I have changed the IAC valve and checked for vacuum leaks (not sure how exhaustive a check it was but sprayed every joint I could find). My mechanic agrees that it is abnormal, but has suggested that we wait for it to worsen enough to throw a code rather than spend a lot of time and money replacing things that may not be a problem. Also the throttle cable appears to be functioning normally and not sticking.
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I love my Ranger. I'm quite impressed with the power and durability. I'm ticked at Ford for stopping production.
I have searched my problem and could not quite narrow it down. I have also tried several remedies with no improvement. I need to narrow it down to a specific item.
2004 Ranger, 4.0 liter, 4x4, 131,000 miles, runs great above idle.
Problem: rough idle, idles at about 750 rpm's. If i raise the rpm's to 850 and up, smooth as silk.
The truck did this a few years back. Not quite as rough and it went away by itself.
Engine light came on this time with P0303 & P0316 codes. I have replaced: plugs, wires, coil pack. I know that the #3 plug is sparking quite well. the #3 injector is getting signal to spray not sure if it is. I have 4 O2 sensors and I believe I tested them correctly (passed). The passenger side upstream or pre cat sensor has not been tested yet. Had to rent a tool and will do that in morning. I slid a piece of aluminum roof flashing between the crank position sensor and the crank pulley. Not a noticeable difference. While at idle (750 rpm's) I pulled each (#3,2,1,) (one at a time) injector wire plugs off the injectors. No noticeable difference. I pulled the vacuum line off the egg and operated it with a vacuum tool. Seems to be working fine. Sprayed carb cleaner around on vac lines. No engine surge
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So just last night I began having a small issue with my R32. While idling, the RPM's slowly starting getting lower to the point where the car almost stalled, probably in the neighborhood of around 300rpms, then it would slowly increase back to normal idle. It did this a few times then while driving and a steady cruise of 35mph I felt a large power loss for a second or two. This repeated a few times until I got home and parked it. I also noticed that the RPM's would fall much, much faster between shifts than normal during this episode. I drove it a short distance today. It it showed no signs of the same problem. Any possible causes?
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