Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2004 - Alarm Will Just Go Off On Its Own Usually At Odd Times
Jun 18, 2017
I recently acquired a 2004 Ranger EDGE that seems to be in decent shape, but I am having an issue. The car alarm will just go off on it's own, usually at the worst times--middle of the night--which doesn't make the neighbors happy. Is there an easy way to disable the alarm but still be able to use the keyless entry system? If I have to disable the entry system I will do that if need be.
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
I have a pretty stock 98 Ranger XLT (Single cab long bed) MFG 11-1998. 3.0 v6, automatic, 2wd. Manual crank windows, Manual mirrors and I presume manual locks as well (All tho aesthetically they look just like powered locks, pins sit flush with panel when locked) It has the PATs system (uses a transponder key and has the theft light). When I got the truck I got one key nothing more.
I would LIKE to have an OEM alarm system in this truck. Blinking lights, remote, that sort of thing.
My questions, would this truck have come with the alarm computer (I think its called the RAP module). If so where would it be located? If I don't have one, can I buy one, plug it in, program remotes and use it? If so how do i program the new remotes without power door locks ..
View 14 Replies
i have a 96 ranger with a 2.3l engine sometimes it will start right up and sometimes it has to crank 4 or 5 times to start i just gave it a tuneup and changed the oil and filter. should i run sea foam through the oil system,it sat for about seven years and i need to convert the idiot gauge to a real gauge.
View 2 Replies
Removing fuel injectors-coolant contamination.. How is this done? I need to see if they are any good-or clean/replace them-after I accidentally left the clip off the hose running out of the thermostat housing when I drained my coolant last week and the first time I drove, coolant leaked onto the top of the engine/manifold depressions, getting onto and into the fuel injectors.
I tried to clean it up as much as possible the first time(finally got it going) but still a few days later the truck at times cranks but does not start-hot or cold. I assume my idiocy is the cause or maybe it is just coincidence of something else? From what I read from my symptoms it could also be the fuel pump relay, pressure regulator, coolant temp sensor, crank sensor.. among other things. My fuel pump is 1.5 years old, so hopefully that isnt it. Have the injectors possibly been contaminated to where I should just replace them?
View 14 Replies
I have a 97 ford ranger V6 4.0. my 4x4 lights flash on my dash board 6 times and go out, a few minutes later it does it again. When I lock my hubs and put it in 4x4 nothing happens. What could be causing this?
View 5 Replies
OK- the truck is a early '96 B4000 4.0, 5 speed 4x4. The key could be pulled from the ignition switch in the "run" position (worn key/lock cyl.) I got in the habit of not using the key (never turned the switch to "lock", just "off"). No issues, been driving the truck all over with no key for some time. Now I can't find the key and alarm fob. No worries, I'll just replace the ignition lock/cyl. Done.
Now the alarm is triggered, and I can't stop it. Truck won't crank, either. I assume the no crank condition is the result of the anti-theft being active. I assumed that because I had been driving around with no key, that I did not have a "chipped" key, assuming the truck wouldn't run unless the "chipped" key was in the switch. Since it ran fine, the assumption was no chip. Now I'm not so sure.
What I would like to do is disable the anti-theft/alarm system totally. Pulling the fuse is no good b/c that kills the fuel supply. Is this possible, or do I scrap the truck? I've found 2 sources on the web that indicate that grounding the the green/purple wire that goes into the drivers door will disable the system.
View 1 Replies
I lost the windshield wipers, speedometer, dome light, door alarm. Check all the fuses I can find all are ok. Whats wrong.
View 7 Replies
My 2004 explorer honks 3 times on lock and 4 times on unlock when you just press the remote once.
View 5 Replies
Trying methods found elsewhere on this site not working anymore. No matter how much wd-40 and door slamming I do, I am getting the 4 short honks on lock and 2 on unlock. No door ajar light and interior lights go off as normal so it doesn't seem to be door open sensor.
View 9 Replies
Looking at buying a new truck. We'll in a crunch actually due to my tranny going out this morning. One that I'm looking at looks great, except the obd2 port is dead. Where do I start looking? What fuse etc. It appears auto correct changed the obd2 to body and I didn't catch it...
View 8 Replies
thinking of taking a gamble on an '04 with 248k miles on it.....not sure what engine is in it.
View 11 Replies
I just bought a new truck. Its got some...well hacking done to it.
Previous owner did some "stuff" to the o2 sensor wiring.
Also installed a cat back new exhaust.
Should there be another O2 sensor after the final cat?
View 12 Replies
It started doing this fairly recently - no work has been performed - it just decided to not work right one day... The A/C compressor will not engage until after the engine is hot - the idiot gauge on the dash has to be firmly in the middle. After it engages, though, hoo boy does it blow cold - which is great, except I didn't used to have to wait as long to get cold air... It does cycle.
I thought, okay - low coolant - I get one of those refill bottles of r134a (w/ "conditioners" and whatnot) with an attached gauge at walmart and pump it into the truck - no change. Gauge was cheesy - told myself to get a better one.
I wait a while and get another bottle of refill r134a - one with a better gauge on it - and try again. Truck doesn't want any more - I may have overfilled, but there's no change - before the compressor kicks in, the gauge reads in the red - overcharge - but once the compressor kicks in, it drops and starts reading in the green and, when I checked per ambient temp, it was a bit in the high-end of the green for that temp, but was fine. I have no way of checking the high-pressure port.
Is there a temp switch of some kind on this system? I don't think it's low on r134a, but something is keeping the compressor from kicking on like it used to.
View 14 Replies
2004 ford ranger edge 3.0 misfires. It does it consistently. The check engine light stays on all the time, but flashes when idling. I have put it on a code reader and it said misfire on cylinders 1 and 2 I believe. I have changed the coil pack and CPS also. It has been doing this for some time now. It doesn't have any problems stalling out or starting up just misfires bad while running. Oh, and you can also smell fuel while your idling pretty strong. And I have also replaced the plugs and wires.
View 6 Replies
I am looking at buying another ranger. Miss my 02 so much and my son will be 16 in a year or so. Thinking about getting us a 4x4 to share and ditching my full size Dodge.
I located an 04 FX4 II, and I was hoping to get some info and confirmation on a few things. I believe that all the FX4 had a 4.10 rear end. True?
What the exact towing capacity of the 4x4 FX4 is? My 02 (2wd) had a capacity at like 5200lbs, I am just wondering if this is the same number for the 04 4x4?
View 4 Replies
2004 3.0L Ranger Edge, 88,000 miles on it, I am the original owner. It won't start. It cranks strongly. Usually when this happens, I have to reset the fuel pump inertia switch. This time, resetting the switch does not work. I disconnected the switch and jumped the two wires going to it, but still no start. The switch seems to work ok, in that I can reset it (a ball, spring, and magnet mechanism, I think), then shake it and the ball will come loose.
The fuel pump 20A fuse in the engine compartment is good. The fuel pump relay in the engine compartment is good (I switched it out with an identical relay that runs the fog lights without problem). I am getting spark. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but pressing in the Schraeder valve on the fuel rail produces gas.
Usually, when the inertia switch is tripped I can get the engine to briefly start by using starter fluid in the air intake. But not this time. I do not hear the fuel pump kicking in when I turn the ignition key to the "On" position, and that would lead me to think that the pump is bad. Except, I don't get a brief start using starter fluid. The fuel filter has never been changed, but again, since I get no start with starter fluid, I don't see how that could be the problem. OBDII scan shows no codes.
View 7 Replies
My '04 Ranger has over 240k on the odometer. Runs great and has never given me any issues. Everything checks out OK - all the fluids, filters, and whatnot are in good shape. No CEL or any other indication that anything is wrong (except for maybe the IAC valve and clutch slave.)
I've noticed, though, that when I fire it up in the mornings to let it warm up while I scrape the ice and snow off the windows, the heat/defrost will not blow warm air. It doesn't matter how long I let it sit, it will only blow ambient air through the ducts.
When I get going down the road, however, the heat kicks in, after a bit, and works very well!
I've not found anything that would indicate an issue with the blend door or any other component and this is the first vehicle I've had that did this.
Is it normal for a 4.0 SOHC Ranger to do this? Or is there something I'm missing?... It's not really that big of a deal, but I do find it a bit odd that it would do this.
I mentioned the IAC above - I think it's "sticking" every once in a while and, when it does, I'll hear a loud "thump" right before it idles down to around 1k rpm. I can't see how this would affect the heat, though...
View 14 Replies
My tires are 245/75/16, is there any benefit in installing smaller 16" tires?, I'm 5'5", I can still get in, but I would like to have it a little bit lower, will that affect mileage, speed etc.? would that even make a difference? if it possible how small can I go without affecting performance?
View 13 Replies
2004 auto ranger 120k miles
When I bought it there was a lifter making a tap tap tap. Its not all the time or consistent which makes me feel its a failed lifter as opposed to a rocker arm that is loose. Ive tried the "stuff" in the oil. Seafoam, marvel mystery, etc with no luck. So this coming winter Im going to break it down and replace the lifter.
First question. I havent put a stethoscope on it or used the "hose to ear" method to track down which one it is. Im pretty sure its the right bank in the front. Will it be obvious which one it is when I get it broken down?
Next. At 120k miles should I be worried about the other lifters? Ive never had one fail on anything I own and hardly ever hear them on other cars. I pretty much thought that hydraulic lifters were failproof anymore. Should I be worried about the others?
Next next, do I need to be worried about damage to the pushrod and or rocker arm? Should I be prepared to replace those as well? Finally anything else to be concerned about or consider?
View 7 Replies
It's a 4 cylinder 5 speed, and once or twice a day when the light turns green and I go to put it in low gear, it just doesn't want to go into gear easy. It's like the syncro isn't happy or something. The clutch is depressed all the way and not dragging.
View 14 Replies
I recently replaced the oil seal on the front differential where the front drive shaft connects to the diff. I believe it is called the pinion oil seal. I had to remove the drive shaft to do the job. Got the oil seal in place and then slipped the u-joint yoke on and hand threaded the retainer nut on to get it started. I did mark the relative position of the drive shaft to the front yoke and the rear yoke. I had previously noted that the retaining nut, before I took it off had about 2.5 threads showing. I had to remove it with an impact wrench.
So...I used the impact wrench to put it back on with about the same number of threads showing. I then reinstalled the little short fronmt drive shaft...the one that comes out of the transfer case. I got the front of it on to the pinion output on the front diff...and then had to reattach it to the transfer case end which, by the way an interesting affair with a sort of metal cone that is attached by 6 8mm fine threaded bolts about 2.5 or 3 inches long. Got all that done with much grunting an groaning - I'm laying on the ground - SO the oil, leak is fixed but now ...
There is a vibration at around 40 mph and higher. like something is out of balance. did i damage the front diff pinion bearing by using an impact wrench? this vibration occurs in 2 wheel drive. as i understand it the front drive shaft doesn't even turn when in 2 wheel drive. my question is does the front diff gears spin when in 2 wheel drive? perhaps the u-joint is bad on the front drive shaft? just a bit baffled. when the speed drops to below 40mph the vibration goes away...
View 2 Replies
