Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2004 2.3L - Failure To Start But No Codes
Dec 24, 2014
My father called me last night to say that his 2004 Ranger, 2.3L engine would not start. He said it cranked over but would not fire. The only other problems this truck has had was a misfire about 6 months ago, which was corrected by a new coil (wires and plugs were changed at that time also).
I looked at it this morning, starting off by cranking it just to see for myself. It cranked fine, stumbled some as if it was trying to fire but never would catch, and I noticed immediately the smell of raw gas from the exhaust pipe. It acted flooded, but injected vehicles are not supposed to flood, so...
No "check engine" light was on, and no codes at all showed on my Actron code scanner. The truck has a half tank of fuel in it, was last filled about a week and a half ago, and was last started about four days ago. It is kept in a garage, currently at about 45 degrees F. It ran fine up until the failure to start last night. I can hear the fuel pump running, and the two plug wires I pulled and checked were firing. I installed the wires back, held the pedal to the floor, cranked it over, and after a few seconds it fired and ran! On the second restart it started a little reluctantly, but multiple times after that it seemed to start fine.
We let it set for an hour or so, went out to try it again, and it would not start again. After I pushed the fuel pedal in just slightly, it fired and ran fine. I repeated this a couple more times while the engine was still cold; no start without touching the pedal, but would start if I cracked the pedal just a little bit. Once started the engine would idle high (1000-1100 rpm or so) for just a few seconds, then idle down as it should when warm.
I'm puzzled by no code, but I'm wondering if the IAC is bad, causing a no-air "flooding" condition if the fuel pedal is not depressed to crack open the throttle plate. That would explain the strong smell of raw gas at first. But, it seems like the IAC is controlling the idle briefly right after the engine starts, but it doesn't seem to be keeping the idle up as long as it should. Would the IAC throw a code if it were not working correctly?
My other suspicion is the TPS, but again without a code I am not sure. My Actron scanner is one of the better models and will read data from the engine; is there a way to check the AIC and TPS function once I do get it running?
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My 2003 ford ranger 3.0 v6 is having a misfire on start up and it is located in the forth cylinder. Where to start to get rid of this problem. i have already changed all my plugs wires and even the coil pack cleaned out the maf and looked for possible leaks. the car shakes really bad at lights and the check engine light starts to flash. Need diagram of where all the cylinder numbers are at and maybe the firing order?
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I love my Ranger. I'm quite impressed with the power and durability. I'm ticked at Ford for stopping production.
I have searched my problem and could not quite narrow it down. I have also tried several remedies with no improvement. I need to narrow it down to a specific item.
2004 Ranger, 4.0 liter, 4x4, 131,000 miles, runs great above idle.
Problem: rough idle, idles at about 750 rpm's. If i raise the rpm's to 850 and up, smooth as silk.
The truck did this a few years back. Not quite as rough and it went away by itself.
Engine light came on this time with P0303 & P0316 codes. I have replaced: plugs, wires, coil pack. I know that the #3 plug is sparking quite well. the #3 injector is getting signal to spray not sure if it is. I have 4 O2 sensors and I believe I tested them correctly (passed). The passenger side upstream or pre cat sensor has not been tested yet. Had to rent a tool and will do that in morning. I slid a piece of aluminum roof flashing between the crank position sensor and the crank pulley. Not a noticeable difference. While at idle (750 rpm's) I pulled each (#3,2,1,) (one at a time) injector wire plugs off the injectors. No noticeable difference. I pulled the vacuum line off the egg and operated it with a vacuum tool. Seems to be working fine. Sprayed carb cleaner around on vac lines. No engine surge
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2004 3.0L Ranger Edge, 88,000 miles on it, I am the original owner. It won't start. It cranks strongly. Usually when this happens, I have to reset the fuel pump inertia switch. This time, resetting the switch does not work. I disconnected the switch and jumped the two wires going to it, but still no start. The switch seems to work ok, in that I can reset it (a ball, spring, and magnet mechanism, I think), then shake it and the ball will come loose.
The fuel pump 20A fuse in the engine compartment is good. The fuel pump relay in the engine compartment is good (I switched it out with an identical relay that runs the fog lights without problem). I am getting spark. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but pressing in the Schraeder valve on the fuel rail produces gas.
Usually, when the inertia switch is tripped I can get the engine to briefly start by using starter fluid in the air intake. But not this time. I do not hear the fuel pump kicking in when I turn the ignition key to the "On" position, and that would lead me to think that the pump is bad. Except, I don't get a brief start using starter fluid. The fuel filter has never been changed, but again, since I get no start with starter fluid, I don't see how that could be the problem. OBDII scan shows no codes.
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Working on a friends 94 ranger, 2.3 L with codes 218 and 998. Chiltons manual does not even show this code. Code is for Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM)/left side. What exactly is this? Can't find anything that explains the IDM.
998 means a hard fault.
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Well I finally went and bought another Ranger. Pretty red 5spd 4WD long bed. I knew it didn't run when I got it (crazy leaky fuel line...stupid squirrels), and the owner was pretty sure it had a head gasket failure. He claimed it was blowing white smoke and using coolant. I hadn't been able to get it to run to verify that, but I can't see why he would lie about that.
I finally got the fuel line fixed today (FYI, don't waste your time or money buying those Dorman OEM connector patch kits at Advanced Auto). While we were cranking the truck, I noticed gas escaping the degas bottle the radiator was pressurized before the thermostat should be open. That to me says blown head gasket (crossing fingers it isn't a cracked head) for sure. I tried to get a picture of the dipstick, but in the light it definitely looks like peanut butter. I just wanted to make sure before the massive ordeal of pulling heads/top end work that will follow
Anyway, plan is to fix her up and get her back on the road! Some picture enjoyment .......
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This has happened 3 times.
1st) pulled quickly over to side of road, shut off truck. It would not start then. Towed it to service station and it started the next morning (with no repair made). I wonder if tow ride dislodged the the blockage in fuel line(?). Always sounds like it's going to turn over, but like not getting fuel.
2nd) Went to leave work, truck wouldn't start. Towed to my mechanic and he replaced fuel pump. Thought it was fixed because it ran fine until just the other day.
3rd) Slowed down to complete stop in heavy traffic and it stalled. Would not restart. Again sounded like it was going to start but didn't seem to be getting fuel. Good samaratins pushed me off road. Had it towed to mechanic. Started the next morning without any repair or service. It's like the tow ride and bumps getting it off the tow truck dislodges what ever is blocking the fuel line.
My mechanic replaced the fuel pump, but I don't think her replaced the fuel filter.
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2004 Ranger Edge 2wd 3.0L. When the truck has been sitting for a while and i start moving forward there is a very loud sound of metal on metal. Changed the diff fluid last week, used royal purple 75-140 with the friction additive. No change, tried to take rear wheels off, but the drums are stuck by the pads. I was able to get the drums off only bout an inch.
Recently, I've noticed that on hard acceleration the RPM go up but it seems sluggish on acceleration. There is also a vibration that comes from the rear and goes away when i remove my foot from the accelerator. The squeal happens between 15 and 20 mph, but goes away fairly quickly. The vibration happens around 40 or so. I am thinking rear axle bearings? But i cant get my drums off to replace the bearings.
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My 2001 2.5 manual suddenly died. The starter turns the engine over, but I don't get a) fuel (changed the fuel pump) b) spark c) Engine check light. When I plug the OBDII reader in, it simply says "ERROR". No codes, no other language.
While trying to figure it out this morning, after trying to start it 50 times, it actually fired for a few seconds, but then died again.
I checked relays and fuses and nothing seemed bad. I swapped relays around too.
I unplugged the battery, then the computer, but nothing got it to fire again.
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Originally started with a p0302 code, and it cleared. CEL came back on with codes p1131 and P0401. First time with an 8 plug 4 cylinder. Truck has 263000 miles, and still original (metal) DPFE sensor. 1996 ranger 2.3L.....
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I am currently chasing misfire codes that started out on cylinder 5 p0305 was the first code I replaced spark plugs and wires about 200 miles the code returned checked coil with meter it was barley in spec. I have replaced coil same code only difference was a hard start cold or hot replaced injectors now hard start is fixed but logging codes for right bank is to rich and p0300 304 305 and 306 also performed compression test on right bank and readings are 155 155 and 160...
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1997 2wd, 4.0 - As you can guess it runs pretty bad at idle. It has O2 heater circuit codes for all 3 sensors. I'm leaning towards the ECM because the 2 heater wires are both hot with the key on. I unplugged the computer and turned the key on and just one wire is hot. Looks like the ecm is supposed to ground the wire to turn the heater on, but it's going hot instead?
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I am having some issues with my 2000 Ford Ranger 2.5. It is throwing codes PO731 (Gear 1 incorrect ratio) P1751(shift solenoid a) PO 401 (EGR Valve & PO 1408 (EGR Valve Circuit Failure.
I recently replaced my valve body gasket because of harsh shifting from 1st to 2nd. The gasket was blown. After I replaced the gasket my truck ran better than it ever has before (like driving a new truck). Nice and smooth shifting! That lasted a couple days
Currently things have changed to the worse. My truck is shifting hard into 2nd. Has a huge loss of power during take off and seems bogged down. Also, my overdrive light will come on after driving for a couple of miles. So, I took my truck to the transmission shop to get the codes pulled. Which are all the codes listed above.
I figured I would attack the EGR issues as one and the transmission as another. I will also add that my EGR issues didn't just happen with the throttle body gasket change. This is something that has been going on way before. I have been at this for days now. I found tons of info on cleaning my EGR Valves and trouble shooting this system...so my main concern is the PO731 & P1751 Codes and how to deal with them.
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I have a 2000 ford ranger 2.5 automatic. runs fine except when stopping at lights and intersections it stalls. I have changed the MAF, TPS and hasn't made a difference.Truck only has 64,000 miles. What to look at next. no codes...
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Previously on "This Old Truck": [URL] ....
Mileage now 298,5xx. Done since last report: Oil change and filter. Trans oil change (merconIII, no leaks apparent). Tires. Front brake pads. Clutch safety switch (was interfering with cruise control operation) Coolant replacement. (see below)
Rat damage related overheat (near total coolant loss, but no MIL) at 288k. (Rat suffered acute lead poisoning later that night) No sign of rodents since.
Fuel filter change (after onset of symptoms).
NO MIL/CEL, no pending codes. CEL/MIL operates on KOST.
Temps normal (190F +/-2 deg during steady-state cruise operation, fuel flows and fuel mileage have not changed significantly. (fuel mileage has IMPROVED approx 5%, possibly due to gentler/slower driving)
M5OD with Limited slip 3.73/ payload pkg II (1650lbs)
Symptoms:
- Intermittent misfire on startup, seems to get better as the truck warms up. (intermittent= some days it do, some days it don't.)
- Truck starts and idles well, even with misfire.
- Intermittent loss of power, usually worse on days when no- or minor- misfire at startup/cold idle. From the driver seat it feels like accelerating over painted lines on a rainy day. . . a couple revs of no power, then it pulls hard for a second or two, then misses a couple of shots, lather, rinse, repeat.
- Usually worse in higher gears; (not noticeable in first or 2nd, bad in 3rd at high power settings, now almost constant in 5th, to the point that truck will not accelerate below 3000rpm in 5th even on flat ground.)
- Fuel flows above 4GPH/ OBDII "LOD" (engine load) reported above 75% are typical during malfunction. (Fuel flows have been as high as 9GPH with no problems on other days.)
Symptoms started at approx 292k and have been slowly getting worse over the past few months. . . . usually worse at beginning of trip, fading to very occasional after 50 miles of high-speed driving. Some days/trips no noticeable malfunction.
Thoughts:
1) Ignition wires tired? (did visual inspection, no obvious damage, but no water spray test performed, but seems likely given that the problem is most evident in conditions that would lead to high cylinder pressures.)
2) Fuel pressure? (not measured yet. . . original pump but possibility discounted due to intermittent nature of malfunction.)
3) O2 sensors tired/rat damage? (Original units still installed/ no obvious damage on cursory visual inspection under truck)
4) Injector going bad or injector wiring rat damage?
5) Plugged catalytic converters? (no sound of blown exhaust gaskets, exhaust flows well at tailpipe, with puffs at misfire.)
6) Cam sensor? (never been replaced; known issue with this model engine. Had intermittent mystery squeak that came and went at approx 250k-260k)
7) Clutch slipping? (never had one do that; always lose the throw-out first)
8) LSD problem? (fluid level/ appearance ok, last changed 150k; would expect worse in LOW gears)
9) Blown head gasket/s?
10) Cracked heads/ block? (Oil and coolant levels and appearance normal)
So: That's the plan of attack. What am I missing? (Clutch last done approx 170k; burned throw-out, did disk, flywheel, pressure plate, slave cylinder while the trans was down. I did not open the hydraulics or disturb the pedal linkage when I replaced the safety switch. )
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Truck is a 1993 ranger 4.0 ohv
Ok I have been getting 157, 158, and 159 codes. I have cleaned and replaced the MAF with no success. I checked the voltage to the sensor 12v, checked the voltage from the signal wire and it is to high. It has been high on the cleaned unit and on both replacements, so I am thinking it is not the MAF, but what will cause it to register high. I cant get the signal voltage below 1.9V at idle.
Signal also reads high with the ignition on and the engine off. What would cause the voltage to be high, I have read it could be an IAC but I would think that would not effect it with the engine off.
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I have an 02 ranger xlt 3.0, it started having a rough idle, codes say cylinder #2&3 misfiring, changed plugs, wires, coil pack, didn't work, still same code, checked injectors on right side, all 3 had ohm reading of 15.8-16.5, the injectors were clicking like they are supposed to, sprayed carb cleaner around the intake ports, didn't change the idle at all,what else can I check or do? with out tearing the engine apart, unless of course I have to, the truck has been very good to me, it's got 205,000 miles on it, I need it to last at least another year...
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I've got a 2003 Ranger 2.3L DOHC, 5 speed, 2WD. It has a check engine light with codes :
P0316-Engine Misfire Detected On Startup
P0704-Clutch Switch Input Circuit Fault
P2195-O2 Sensor Excess Lean Signal Bank 1-Sensor 1
P0171-System Too Lean (Bank 1)
The truck runs fine when coasting or accelerating but when holding a steady light throttle to maintain speed the truck starts bucking and jerking. It's doesn't feel like a misfire, more like a fuel cut out condition. When this happens and you come to a stop, you can smell that the exhaust is very rich coming out of the tailpipe. I've already replaced the upstream O2 sensor and I did a tune up about 15k ago. I'm thinking fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. I doubt if this is related, but on start up (more so on a cold start up) the A/C compressor clutch kicks in and out 3-5 times and makes a terrible racket.
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My '03 Ranger is having a high idle problem. It's a 3.0, manual, 2wd, 141,000 miles. When it's cold it will idle at about 1500 but once I drive it, even just to the end of the block, it will idle at about 3000 and shoot up towards that between shifts. At a traffic light it will idle at 3000 and maybe go down to about 2500. If I bog it down with the clutch it goes right back up once I put the clutch back in or put it in neutral.
I replaced the IAC, no luck. I cleaned the MAF and checked the voltage on the TPS and it is good. I replaced the PVC valve, but the old one was fine anyway. I've sprayed around with carb cleaner and don't notice any difference. I've plugged it into my dad's AutoTap which lets me monitor everything on my laptop and the only thing I can see that looks suspicious is that even with the engine off, the Absolute Throttle Angle reads 18.8%. If I step on the gas with the engine off it goes up to 91.8% so I would imagine that just has to do with the function of the TPS and probably isn't out of the ordinary, but I don't really know what that number means or what the Absolute Throttle Angle is or is supposed to be.
Short of taking the intake plenum off and physically inspecting it for cracks, I'm stumped.
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I just tried doing the self test for reading the codes via the check engine light with the OBD1 system on my '93 4.0 Ranger. Problem is: When trying to mark down the flashes of the check engine light, they flash so erratically and rapidly that there is no way to accurately count. At times the light flickers so fast it never even gets to get fully bright enough to tell if it is actually a "flash" or not. I'm (again) trying to diagnose an issue with the truck starting and running fine for about 3-4 minutes and then like flipping a switch begins blubbering and belching out black smoke, check engine light flashes on/off randomly, then the engine will eventually die. It will restart provided the ignition switch is turned all the way off and attempted again, generating same results only within 30 seconds or so. If you try restarting w/o turning the ignition all the way off, it'll spin over but won't start. ECM?
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I am looking for the part number for the ABS speed sensor mounted on the rear differential for my 2000 Ranger XL 4x4 3.0 flex fuel model. I am also looking for the name of the part so I can look it up on the ford parts site. while looking I have found these names ABS speed sensor
Powertrain Control Module Speed Control Sensor
I had my truck in the shop and they did a health check, they found these codes po500 - cluster fault and the abs module fault
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