Ok, my question is, when gas pedal is pressed half or more down-ward, a squeal sounding is coming from engine compartment. 2003 ranger v-6 3.0 flex....
View 1 RepliesThis has happened 4 times now over 2 weeks. The engine will turn over but will not start till I press the gas pedal. I have to keep the engine running for a few seconds by hold the gas pedal steady.After it's running you can cut the engine off and it will start right back up.
View 9 RepliesI just bought a 2006 F150 SuperCrew with a 5.4L engine and since the weather has turned cold, I've noticed an intermittent high pitched squeal coming from the engine compartment. I've replaced the serpentine belt and the idler pulley plus another belt pulley but none of the above worked.
I've also had two separate mechanics look at the problem and both are at a loss as to what could be causing the noise. The guess is maybe its an air leak coming from either the intake or vacuum lines. But nobody is really sure.
The noise seems to really become noticeable when the temperature gets below 20 degrees and around 2000 rpms, but sometimes it happens at other times. Where this extremely annoying sound might be coming from?
I am the 2nd owner of a 2001 Chrysler Town and Country Minivan Limited. The vehicle is in very good shape and I service it every three months and have the tires rotated every six months.
Just recently I have been having a problem with it not wanting to start. I have had a bit of a squeal coming from the engine compartment and know it is the serpentine belt that needs to be changed out before it gets bad (I have only heard the squeal probably three times since December 2012.)
I would rather buy my parts and have the mechanic put them on instead of him buying them and charging me double.
My question is...do you think it is only my belt or should I think in the direction of the Starter or something else. After about threee or four tries it will finally start.
On Tuesday July 16th was driving along AC was on and all of sudden I heard a squeal coming from the engine compartment. The AC stopped blowing cold air then the A/C light started the flash (manual Air conditioning). I turned off the AC and finished out my day with the windows open.. I have read the post about the flashing A/C light but I am wondering if I should address the squeal 1st I only hear it when the A/C is turned on.. 2006 Camry V6 137K miles.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1998 ranger 2.5L engine. I took it to a Ford garage and they told me I have a rod knock..........I took it also to a good mechanic and he said the sound is coming from the lifters.
There is 172000 miles on motor and the noise started at 131000, and is getting worse. Should I drive it till it blows, or is there a way to tell what the problem is?
I have this 03 3.0 flex fuel that as of lately (2 months) has developed a whistle when throttle is pressed half way or more.... not sure what or where its coming from..
View 2 RepliesOk, did an intake manifold cleaning on my 99 Accord the other day, and now I have problems...
Long story short, some time ago my car started to have a very rough idle. Took me awhile to find the problem. Turned out the air hose, between the filter and throttle body, had developed a big hole on the underside. So I replaced it and while I was at it used some throttle body cleaner, spraying into the intake manifold chamber. Lot of junk blew out the tailpipe. The car ran much better, but the idle could still be a little rough. I ran it that way for awhile, and finally the other day decided there was probably still some junk in there and it was time to really clean it out. So I took ff the throttle body and intake manifold housing. There was a lot of junk in there! The small intake on the passenger side was completely clogged shut. (I understand this isn't surprising on these cars.) I used a bunch of rags and 2 cans of Valvoline throttle body cleaner and a lot of elbow grease and cleaned it out. I was thinking to myself that whatever I didn't get with the rags flushed through OK, but I didn't want to take the whole intake manifold out.
So I put it all back together. (I took a video before I started, so I'm pretty sure it's all back together right.) But now I have problems. The car starts. It idles fine mostly, but can be a bit rough. But the trouble starts when I put the pedal down. If I do it in Park, well, if I push it quick the engine just dies. If I push it slow, the engine revs then quits, revs and quits, over and over. Similar if it's in gear. If I push it hard, the engine stalls. If I push it gentle, it revs up, but chugs along a bit.
I've run some seafoam through it, thinking it was clogged up with all that junk, and sure enough, lots of smoke comes out, but nothing is improving so far. What have I done wrong?
I'm having a rough go with my little 1990 Ranger Custom. Let me get into the signs and symptoms I'm finding, The Truck is having starting and dying issues. It has plenty of Gas. It is completely erratic when it dies. I'll be driving along and suddenly, as if turning the key off, it dies. No sputtering of the motor, no clicking or clacking or growling anywhere. Just a clean sounding turn off. The odd thing is, I'll leave it for a few hours, and the problem disappears. I can drive it for one to 30 minutes and then it can die again.
Now it's sitting in my driveway I am rough on the truck, because its a work truck that I use to drive down to my job site. So, farm pasture, fields, woodland paths and tractor access roads. I checked to see if the pump plug was unplugged. But it's very plugged in. The entire fuel system is just less than a year old, and I am very good friends with the old owner and he can't figure it out either. Could I be having ignition problems? There is a ticking in the engine compartment that isn't very noticeable, only noticeable when the hood is up and motor running, but that has always been there since I've had it. I heard that sometimes the safety switch on the firewall turns off the fuel system in case of accident.
Could that have gotten agitated? I've been having this issue for a little while, after I drove it in the rain for an hour and half. It was pouring rain. I ran out of gas the day after (because my fuel gauge doesn't work) and I used a Jerry can filled with gas to get it to the gas station. I didn't sift the gas, but I don't see it having debris either. Could I have water in the system? I put injector cleaner in my tank and more gas to try and dilute the system but, that doesn't seem to have worked...
A few weeks back just after buying a new front hub assembly (so I know I have Live Axle 4x4 and 4WABS), a dude on an excavator pulled out in front of me on a blind curve on an interstate exit ramp. Almost got him, then almost got got by the car behind. The hard stop caused a rear line to blow.
When I got home, fluid was still coming out when I pushed the pedal, so the first thing I did was top off the reservoir. I was surprised it was not empty.
I finally got lines that would fit, and replaced both sides. Fast forward a few weeks and I had time to bleed the system. I hooked my vacuum pump to the right-rear wheel cylinder port, opened it and began to pump. Pump, pump, pump, and still no fluid. Tried a few times. Left the pump on, opened the port, (charged the battery), started the truck and pumped the pedal - no fluid. Also, the fluid level did not change in the master.
Master cylinder bleed? Do I need to have the ABS motor bled?
I just got a new clutch and clutch slave cylinder in my 1998 Ford Explorer. Driving it home from the mechanic, I'm hearing a sputtering sound coming from what seems to be the lower part of the engine compartment. It sounds like a VW Bug exhaust. I've never heard this sound before. It's troubling that it has appeared now immediately following a repair. I presume there is a outside possibility that it's not the mechanics doing, but that seems improbable. (The engine was revving high right before the clutch blew out last week, so maybe those brief high revs caused some damage? I can't imagine that being the case.) Or was there something in the clutch repair process that could have resulted in this?
I made a recording of the sound here.......
acts like abs sensors could be bad. but the brake pedal goes almost to the floor, after it does it's pulsating. But the abs light does not come on. I already changed brake booster, no change!
View 5 RepliesFirst off it's a 2008 Prius with 80K on it.
There is a new sound that has started coming from the front of the car in the engine compartment or even lower. It is a turning turbine like sound that is mostly obvious when driving at 60 mph, but my guess is that it is always there, but not as audible at lower speeds. The air and heater are both off and have no effect on this sound. The only thing that could have had anything to do with it is that a day or two before, the tires were low so I filled them to 40 psi. The other thing is that it clicked over to 80K the last week and the friendly red maintenance required light came on.
I recently bought a 2006 Ranger with supposedly 110000 miles... I don't think I made a good deal... because I found the stabilizer end link in terrible shape which seems suspicious for this mileage in my personal opinion!? But this isn't the reason I am posting today... I have a serious breaking issue and I couldn't find explanation yet.
My ABS Light is on. When I slowly brake at low speed and when the brake is almost completely depressed... I hear a low humming sound, and the brake pedal seems to momentarily drop back just slightly. This also happens when I'm going down hill and breaking. For the most part, the car breaks, and it's only every 8th or 10th time braking that I experience this issue.
My guess is this is linked to the ABS... but I can't afford expensive service and need to resolve this on my own.
Ok, driving home tonight from boarding (semi hard driving) car started running and shifting weird, loss of power, weird shifts in drive. At first red light I could hear a sucking sound when the throttle was pressed,or downshift tranny in manual mode. If you put the car in neutral going down the road and stab the pedal about the third time throttle will maintain 3g rpm. Babied it home, popped the hood blipped the throttle and there's def. a huge sucking sound coming from engine bay. I lightly sprayed intake/vacuum hoses/airbox etc with starting fluid and no change in idle. cant see anything loose. WTH?
View 24 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford Ranger, 5spd with 3.0 v6. The speedometer will jump around or quit about half the time whenever you push the brake pedal or use the turn signals. I've cleaned all the grounds I can find including taking the battery cables off the clamps and cleaning them, and I had to clean all the fuses (inside box and outside box) because most of them were corroded. It still does it. Occasionally, I'll hear a buzzing/crackling noise like electricity arcing when I use the brakes or the turn signals which sounds like it's coming from the left side of the dashboard.
I took off panels and the fuse box, but I don't see any sign of arcing. Also, the noise only occurs when the truck is actually moving, never when it's sitting still. Also, the engine has a slight flutter at an idle. I hooked up a computer, and the O2 sensors were erratically jumping between rich and lean, so I replaced all of them. It says Insufficient EGR flow detected, so I did put a new EGR valve on and cleared the codes, but it still reads the same. And lastly, the computer refuses to finish either of its diagnostic tests. I've tried the Koeo and the koer tests, and neither will complete.
My '91 Ranger 4X4 has developed an odd rattle that sounds like it's coming from the transfer case. It seems to be pretty much the same whether the truck is stopped or moving, or in Park or Reverse, or in 2wd or 4wd or Low Range. I hear it when the engine is just idling, with the transmission in Park and the parking brake on. It seems to be getting louder. I have the 4L V-6 with auto transmission.
View 2 RepliesMy 2002 2.8 diesel ranger has recently been serviced replacing the turbo and a complete overhaul on the engine performed. I road tested it and it runs smooth... However, I am hearing a popping sound coming from the intake air filter. I was told it is because of the new turbo installed.
View 2 RepliesSo I just took my 2010 Camry xle-4 in today for brakes and a squealing noise coming from the engine compartment, 76,000 on the odometer. Thought they were going to tell me one of the two belts needed to be replaced and to my surprise they tell me it is the transmission. If you put it in park the noise is gone. I have the 100,000 Toyota backed extended warranty. the tech stated what I did not know until today - sealed transmission. They had to requested an adjuster (warranty requirement) to come out and look at the vehicle prior to ordering a new transmission - no repair option. Vehicle shifts with no issues, drives fine.
View 1 RepliesI've had a used 2007 V6 Camry for about six months now.
I recently started noticing a quiet set of rapid clicks/clacks sound coming from engine compartment/firewall area more or less on driver side. I'm not sure if it was there all along or if I just began noticing it.
It occurs after starting the car, putting it in drive and as soon as I let off the brakes and begin rolling. It might only happen going forward. I will have to notice if it does it in reverse.
It happens rapidly and stops and I don't hear it again until I repeat the steps above after the car has sat a while. I don't believe it will do it again, if say, after doing it once I stop, put it into park and then back into drive and go.
I don't believe it's the CV joints. It does it once and stops and is not related to movement of the steering wheel. It almost reminds me of a relay switching something.
I'll also add that I had a 1995 Prizm and 2000 Corolla that did the same thing. Both were manual transmissions. The click they made was much louder though their cabins were not sealed as well as the Camry. The clicks would happen only after the car had sat a while as soon as the car first started rolling and then would stop. Could it be the same thing in all three cars?
After about 1 minute after starting the truck it sounds like the fan belt is squealing..(below 30 deg outside) Only its not the fan belt as I replaced it. Does not do it when it is engine is operating temperature. Have checked all of the Pulleys which seem to be all right. The frequency of the squealing sound is about 1/3 the engine RPM and will go away above 2k when it does do it. Stopping at a stop light after about 45 seconds it really starts to get loud. Can a Fan Clutch do this.. I beleive that this engine has a timing chain right?
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