Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2003 V6 Rough Idle / No Power On Highway
Jul 28, 2015
168K, to date, replaced
rear 2 cat's
Timing chain and gears
cam sync assem.
Plugs, wires, dis block,
Why.............. Read on
This 2003 ranger 3.0 v6, run very hard at idle, yet it runs and you can drive it around town, ""at"" low rpm, and no hills but it gets from point a to point b
I have no pre ingintion, but a plug that was only 60 days only was burnt out completely on 3rd cyl. bank 1 or as ford call it #3, i am telling you this thing seem like it running on 4 cyl,s kicking back and forth, and replacing everything above made no difference.
On the highway, as long as it is flat or down hill 75-80 mph, as soon as a hill or power to pass is needed it bogs down and slows it self to about 45 mph, I have been though everything i can think of and my next move to to start pulling heads, but i wanted to ask here first.
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I have a 94 Ford Ranger 4x4 4.0 V6. It has developed a rough idle and has lost i fair amount of power. I cleaned the maf sensor and iac valve. Along with replacing an o2 sensor that was reading bad, with no improvement. The guys at O'reilly took a look and think I may be dealing with a timing issue or a warped valve. My question here is to found the culprit? I'm very inexperienced at working on vehicles and am damn intimidated by the scale of a project like timing. I should add that while traveling on the highway in high gear at low rpms, it develops a rough stutter. I can either power through it or ease off to get it to stop, but it resumes shortly after. It almost acts like an egr valve stuck open when on the highway. But that doesn't account for the rough (a consistent put, put, put...) idle.
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Engine runs rough at idle. Two plugs are black and just replaced head gaskets. I installed new short block and new heads six months ago. I can't seem to figure out the problem and I would like to trouble shoot more before tearing heads off and going any further.
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I understand there is not much adjustable on my 98 Ranger (2.5L) as far as idle speed and mixture. It runs rough when started cold. Is this a sign to replace spark plugs?
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I'm getting tired of the same problem about every 6 months. Plug #4 keeps going bad. Its been doing this for years. It starts with rough idle when first starting up that clears up quickly then eventually it leads to a misfire when accelerating. Every time this happens I replace plug #4 and its good to go. Just recently (roughly 6 months ago) did a full tune up and all new injectors. About a week or 2 ago it started its rough idle at start up and just the other day it started misfiring again. What would keep causing this??
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My 2005 2.3l Ranger ran great. I moved a trailer about 150 feet and stalled the truck backing it up. Stick shift. Unhooked the trailer and pulled back into the parking area....all the sudden the truck has extremely rough idle and stalls. It runs good on the highway. AutoZone ran a OEM number to cross: P0171.
I cleaned the IAC with intake cleaner. No Luck
I unhooked battery for 15 min. No Luck
I sprayed intake with 1/2 can of intake cleaner. No Luck
I did not have a tamper torx to remove the MAF. What next.
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I have a 2002 ford ranger xlt 3.0 i just rebuilt the entire motor about a month ago and was having a high idle problem for the longest time. turns out i had the iac on backwards. but now that it idles down around where its supposed to it has a rough idle has a little shake to it. starts up right away but when i drive down the road around 3000-3500 rpms its missing on cylinder #3 from what the code I am getting "multiple cylinder misfire, #3 cylinder misfire" I've replaced plugs and wires. camshaft pos sensor. I am getting 65 lbs of fuel pressure. spark on all cylinders. I am really at a dead end here. Also every time I take the plugs out to look at them they look brand new.
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So I have a 2001 ranger 2.3l . Runs very rough at idle.code says misfire in cyl.#1. I have changed plugs, wires, coil packs all motocraft. I did a compression test..
#1.170
#2 180
#3. 185
#4 . 180
Compression seems fine,but where do i go from here? Anything else i can check/replace to solve this?
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1999 B3000 with a 3.0. The truck idles at 850rpms. When it starts it idles at around 1000 and runs very rough. When I disconnect the IAC the engine dies. The AC also has problems it blows cold at idle but at highway speeds after 7-8 minutes running the compressor kicks out. One can turn it off and it blows cold again after a few minutes.
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2007 Ranger 4.0l, idles rough at low rpm, in park or drive, with or without the AC on.
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1995 ford ranger with 4.0. It idles rough. Replaced MAF TPS fuel pump fuel filter fuel pressure regulator upper o2 sensor. IAC.. still idles rough RPMs drop. It isn't as bad since replacing MAF but still not right. What else is there.. Cleaned out the air intake port it was gummed up. Don't know what else to do?
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I have an 02 ranger xlt 3.0, it started having a rough idle, codes say cylinder #2&3 misfiring, changed plugs, wires, coil pack, didn't work, still same code, checked injectors on right side, all 3 had ohm reading of 15.8-16.5, the injectors were clicking like they are supposed to, sprayed carb cleaner around the intake ports, didn't change the idle at all,what else can I check or do? with out tearing the engine apart, unless of course I have to, the truck has been very good to me, it's got 205,000 miles on it, I need it to last at least another year...
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I have a 1999 B4000 4.0L with 160K miles on it. Bought the truck new. Up until about a year ago it ran perfect but has developed an idle, stalling and occassional jerky ride problem. It occurs at any temperature, engine hot or cold, A/C clutch on or off and in Park, Drive or Neutral. When you start the engine it will not idle unless you keep your foot on the gas. The idle speed will drop to 200-300 rpm and the engine dies. Sometimes you can barely tap the gas pedal and the rpm will shoot up to normal idle speed (about 900 rpm) and stay there a few seconds then begin to drop again. If the engine is cold it will often die a couple times after starting even with the foot on the gas and then about the 2nd or 3rd time run with your foot on the gas.
At stop signs and red lights you have to keep your foot on the gas to keep it running. If you are approaching a stop sign and take your foot off the gas to coast to a stop and brake, the engine rpm will drop and the engine will die. It always starts fine though. Once you are driving it generally runs just fine at low or high speed. You can generally set the cruise control on the expressway and cruise right on. However, sometimes all of a sudden the truck will start bucking and jumping as if it has a terrible misfire. It usually lasts a few seconds and quits. Often if you step on the gas it quits. Even less occasionally the engine will begin to slow as if it is starved for fuel and slow down. You can press the pedal to the floor and it sputters a bit then picks up and runs fine.
I have read about all the threads in this forum and others and tried some of the suggested fixes but it still has the problem. I have tuned it up with new plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter and PCV valve. Based on some of the forums advice I have replaced the IAC valve, the EGR valve and EGR Pressure Feedback Sensor, and cleaned and inspected the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. I have checked all my vacuum lines and no leaks there and checked the engine timing which is fine. Fuel rail pressure and engine compression are also fine. Spark plugs show no clues, exhaust is clean and the engine uses virtually no oil. There has been no tear down on the engine like removing the heads, cam, timing gears or any of that and the engine is completely stock.
It shows no codes related to the problem. Two or three months after the problem started I showed a code that indicated an injector problem, traced the problem to a bad injector, replaced the faulty injector and it was fine. That took care of that code but didn't solve the idle problem. In my younger days I was into drag racing and I rebuilt engines, swapped transmissions, etc. and still do my own tune-ups today so I am fairly familiar with auto repair and have most of the tools for testing newer cars but this one stumps me. As a last resort I'm about to take it to the dealer.
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I love my Ranger. I'm quite impressed with the power and durability. I'm ticked at Ford for stopping production.
I have searched my problem and could not quite narrow it down. I have also tried several remedies with no improvement. I need to narrow it down to a specific item.
2004 Ranger, 4.0 liter, 4x4, 131,000 miles, runs great above idle.
Problem: rough idle, idles at about 750 rpm's. If i raise the rpm's to 850 and up, smooth as silk.
The truck did this a few years back. Not quite as rough and it went away by itself.
Engine light came on this time with P0303 & P0316 codes. I have replaced: plugs, wires, coil pack. I know that the #3 plug is sparking quite well. the #3 injector is getting signal to spray not sure if it is. I have 4 O2 sensors and I believe I tested them correctly (passed). The passenger side upstream or pre cat sensor has not been tested yet. Had to rent a tool and will do that in morning. I slid a piece of aluminum roof flashing between the crank position sensor and the crank pulley. Not a noticeable difference. While at idle (750 rpm's) I pulled each (#3,2,1,) (one at a time) injector wire plugs off the injectors. No noticeable difference. I pulled the vacuum line off the egg and operated it with a vacuum tool. Seems to be working fine. Sprayed carb cleaner around on vac lines. No engine surge
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I have an 87 ranger, 2.3 4cyl. 2wd 5 speed. When I start up the truck after it sits for a few hours it will idle fine but then it starts to bog down and wants to stall but after about 5 mins its fine and runs like a champ. I don't know if its a sensor or what.
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1987 Ranger and the computer will not communicate. I'm trying to check for codes because of a rough idle and stumble when starting out from a stop. Check engine works but won't flash when using a jumper across the data link. Used a OTC scanner but it only times out and comes up "no data". Where to go from here?
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I have a 2006 Ford Ranger with the 3.0L v6. The check engine light came on and the code it is blowing is a P0171. It runs rough at idle or when I let off the accelerator and "fine" at speed.
The code told me to check/clean the MAF which I have done. Next on the list that I saw was the PCV valve. I disconnected the electrical to it and then disconnected the hose. Some oil poured out of it... not a lot but some... The valve still seems free, it clicks when I rotate/shake it and I can blow through it (I know, highly scientific). I can replace this (if I can find it, Napa and Advanced Auto don't have a part that looks like it...) but I'm wondering what else could be wrong.
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I've got a 2003 Ranger 2.3L DOHC, 5 speed, 2WD. It has a check engine light with codes :
P0316-Engine Misfire Detected On Startup
P0704-Clutch Switch Input Circuit Fault
P2195-O2 Sensor Excess Lean Signal Bank 1-Sensor 1
P0171-System Too Lean (Bank 1)
The truck runs fine when coasting or accelerating but when holding a steady light throttle to maintain speed the truck starts bucking and jerking. It's doesn't feel like a misfire, more like a fuel cut out condition. When this happens and you come to a stop, you can smell that the exhaust is very rich coming out of the tailpipe. I've already replaced the upstream O2 sensor and I did a tune up about 15k ago. I'm thinking fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. I doubt if this is related, but on start up (more so on a cold start up) the A/C compressor clutch kicks in and out 3-5 times and makes a terrible racket.
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My 95 4.0 has had a periodic idle issue for quite a while. It seems it may be getting worse. Here is when it may only happen:
Vehicle is fully warm. I shut it off for about 1 hr or so and when I restart it, it shakes and misses in idle. It will idle fine after I drive it around or if I rev the engine for a while when still parked.
This never triggers the "check engine light". New fuel filter, plugs and wires.
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94 Ford Ranger 2.3L
I started to have a slightly rough idle a while back, but not severe. I figured she was just aging a bit.
Changed plugs. Check engine light came on. Changed plug wires. Then I had a couple of episodes where it started to lose power and idle really rough (stalling). Both times it stopped after a few minutes. Had code read- they said it was coils. Replaced ignition coils. Check engine light still on, but it went a few weeks without power loss.
Tonight the loss of power returned and didn't leave, and I had a glowing red catalytic converter after I limped home 20 miles (hope I didn't do any serious damage, I was stranded.)
Found this post : [URL] .... But there's no resolution.
So, I'm probably dealing with a misfire, and I'm sure I torched my cat after tonight. So any other easy diagnose/fixes for a misfire? I'm a shade tree mechanic- so I know just enough to get myself in trouble. If I can't get a resolution soon it will be off to the mechanic (which, maybe I should have done 1st...)
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My 3.0 with 216k miles has developed a rough idle and it progressively got better with new parts and cleanings. On startup it revs up to 2k then back down to 600. If I let it idle for about 8 or so minutes my Check Engine Light starts flashing. If I drive about for a little bit it stops and is just fine.
While the light is flashing I get codes P1000, P0305, P0306, and P0316. Which are OBDII Monitor Testing Not Complete, Misfire detected in Cyl 5, Misfire detected in Cyl 6 and Engine Misfire Detected on Startup (First 1000 Revolutions) respectively. Any other time the truck runs like a dream. Gets 20 city and 29.5 highway.
I cleaned my Mass Air Flow, replaced my Idle Air Control, SeaFoamed throttle body and vacuum lines, brand new coil pack, new wires, new plugs, new fuel filter, I've only ever run 91 octane, Chevron with Techron goes in at every oil change and B12 every other and I just ran 3 bottles of Lucas fuel injector cleaner.
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