Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2003 - Tow / Haul - Weight Limit?
Nov 18, 2011
I have a 2003 Ranger Edge 2dr.ext cab 3.0 manual transmission 6'bed.. I want to haul some patio pavers so how much weight can I carry?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 Ranger Edge 2dr.ext cab 3.0 manual transmission 6'bed.. I want to haul some patio pavers so how much weight can I carry?
View 14 RepliesWhat is the weight limit for the Prius to avoid so the back end doesn't sag too low while driving? I would like to place 2 big suitcases and 2 small carry ons in the truck. Is this too heavy meaning will the backend look too low while driving? Weight on all 4 (150lb approx) plus 4 people (350) is what worries me.
View 19 RepliesI recently bought a 2010 Ranger; it has been a fleet vehicle since it was brand new. The truck has some sort of warning beeper that goes off (installed by the fleet) every time the truck approaches 70 mph. How I can remove/disable this thing?
View 5 RepliesLooking for an image of pvc valve location....2003 ranger 3.0......
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 ranger with 2.3. I drive it daily but it has started to sputter and jerk. The truck has 94000 on it and I bought it new. It sat for over a year but has been driven every day for the last year. It started a couple months ago but would just do it for a second, now I cant drive it on the highway. I think it might be injectors but how do I know for sure?
View 12 RepliesMy 03 ranger with a 2.3 I4 does not want to restart when it is above about 80 deg outside and engine is warm. Will crank, but as soon as fuel in line runs out it stalls, like a vapor lock. After about 45 mins can push start normally( has manual trans) but have to wait about 2 hours to use starter to start.
View 11 RepliesRecently bought a 2003 Ranger Edge with 101,000 miles. Step side. Having trouble filling up with gas. Replaced the hose from the filler neck to the tank (the one with a 90 degree bend) still no luck. It was collapsed.
View 5 RepliesIt first started with a huge lose in power (can't rev over 3,500 rpm or get over ~55 mph) and a pig on gas! P0125 showed up so after looking for a while I figured I would change the sending unit
- Single wire (3F1Z-12A648-A), coolant temp sensor (ECT I believe) to PCM
- Two wires (F7DZ-10884-AA) and then the thermostat.
- Throughout this time the heater worked perfectly fine. The temperature gauge would get up to C but never very far from it. I would never get to the middle.
In doing so I drained the coolant took off the intake hose (cleaned the butterfly valve in the process) then got clean access to the sensors and the two 10mm screws for the thermostat. I got it all off and apart just fine minus the one stubborn plug on the sending unit (single wire). Putting the sensors back in took more effort then taking them out it could have been the anti-seize or thread sealant that came on it. Anyways, I also noticed that BOTH the new sensors I picked up from the dealership looked identical. Both of them looked similar to this:
Granted the tops were different colors but the ends (metal) were the same or at least I couldn't tell the difference. The ones I took out of the block were definitely different. The sender (single wire) looked like the one above but the sensor looked like this with the pointed tip (I can upload pictures too):
I put the coolant temp sensor in first (two wires) and the plug went on fine. Put the sender (single wire) in and I couldn't get the cap on... it was too tight. I looked at the old one and it seemed like one of the ribs to guide the plug on was off by the thickness of the rib... I tried again and thought maybe it was me and eventually cracked the cap.
Now the coolant gauge doesn't work at all doesn't even move. I then got it scanned and saw P0117 come up... Is this for the sender (1 wire) or the sensor (2 wires). Also I read that once P0017 comes up it could be difficult to start the truck... I thought it was because there was gunk left over from me cleaning the butterfly valve but that may be it instead.
My questions are... Did I mix the sensors up? I really don't think so I double checked before I put them in that only one was open at a time. Was I given the wrong sensor for the coolant temp as it looked different at the tip? I have no clue? Looking at threads for P0117 it seems to be the sensor. I will be going back to Ford tomorrow am to take the old ones in to check. Why wouldn't the plug fit on the sender (single wire)?... I have no clue.
2003. Ranger xlt with the 4.0.... So I just bought this truck and was informed that the vacuum might not be functioning correctly. And here's the symptoms. It idles a little rough, nothing major. When I put the truck into gear either drive or reverse, it stalls out almost every time unless I give it some gas and hold the brake. But after that I could drive it all day with out a problem, as long as I don't put it into park. And last it starts a little hard. But the damn thing runs great while driving it. It's still very snappy even having high miles.
View 4 RepliesMy 2003 ranger, 4.0l, 5 spd manual with 295K miles has no power on acceleration. Engine shutters/stalls. The following have been replaced in last 20k miles; fuel pump, plugs/wires, mass flow sensor and fuel filter. Last week left for work and could not go faster than 50 mph. Condition has gotten worse (barely goes past 40 mph).
Changed filter with no improvement.
Checked fuel pressure - constant at 65 psi.
Changed coil - no change.
The tank of gas I put in just before problem was from station with tanker dumping while I pumped. That tank is out of truck; filled from different station. Also put can of seafoam in tank. No change.
Ok, basic rundown. Stop at a red light, turns green, when i go it gives a strange grindy-growl from the rear. Lasts maybe 2 seconds then its gone. its very uncommon. But it is something i am interested in getting figured out. Doesn't happen any other time, only on complete stops.
View 2 Replies2002 3.0, 43,000 miles. Intermittent 'chirping' has begun. Is this the "wear indicator" on the belt tensioner? If so, what is it telling me? And where do I put the breaker bar to slack off tension...Red Arrow, or Blue arrow? They both look like bolts...I was expecting to see a 3/8" square opening...and do I turn clockwise or CCW to slack it all...
View 9 RepliesOkay so the other day my ranger wouldn't start after i got off work, it would turnover only occasionally but now it wont even do that. I've tried the fule turn on/off switch underneath the passenger glove box. I unscrewed the fuel like valve cap and pressed the pin but the fuel like barely squirted out so does it mean my fuel pump is bad or what??
View 9 RepliesI own a 2003 3.o v-6 ranger, after a short or long drive, my truck has a hard time starting.. Starts fine before any driving..
View 12 RepliesI bought a 2003 Ford Ranger, 2.3, 5 speed manual. It is hard to shift after it warms up. I test drove it when it was below freezing, so I didn't notice it at first. The warmer the day and quicker the truck warms up, the worse it is. It goes into gear with no problem when the engine is off or if I'm still moving, but if I'm stopped there are times it is hard to get into gear. This really sounded like a clutch that wasn't fully disengaging to me, so I decided to pull it apart. I didn't check the movement at the slave before I started, but I did find the master was a little wet at the rod in the cab.
So, I did the following:
- New clutch master cylinder (system bled out of truck to eliminate air)
- New slave cylinder and bearing
- New pilot bearing
- Changed transmission fluid - Mercon III ATF
I inspected the clutch/pressure plate and it was in good shape and looked like it might have had 10K - 20K miles on it. The last owner said it was recently replaced and it looked it. So, I put it back in. After I was done, I checked the movement at the slave/pressure plate and it is moving about 3/8" - 1/2" when the pedal is down. I was happy and thought this would solve the problem since the old pilot bearing seemed stiff and I saw the leak on the back of the master cylinder.
I drove it and all felt fine at first, but it was a cool day and I didn't drive it that long. When it was warmer over the next couple of days, it started getting hard to shift again. It's not been quite as bad as before, but still doesn't shift right.
'03 Ranger, 2.3L. Runs great except at idle. Code p0171. Replaced IAC, no luck.
Brake cleaner leak test definitely results in engine rpm change right around "butterfly rod" plug in front of intake manifold near no. 1 cyl. I'm pretty sure that's the problem - the plastic plug blew out. I watched a video showing repair, but it seems lacking.
I do not want to loosen up intake for access - I'd rather remove steering pump and gain some access to plug it up. There still isn't much access but, but eyeballing it, enough to plug, I think.
Three steering pump bolts came out easy. The fourth one is behind fluid line - extremely difficult to access, imo.
Somehow try to remove pump for access to intake hole, or bite the bullet and remove intake manifold for access?
Is it possible to replace just the glass on the outside mirrors on a 2003 Ranger?
If so, how is it done?
I have an 03 Ranger 3.0 a/t. A little while back I had a clogged cat, so I took out all the cats and since then it has slowly developed a ticking sound from what sounds like the top of the heads. What that might be?
View 6 RepliesI've been dealing with this for 2 years now and its going to snap my axle shaft one of these days. I am scared to take it out in a snow storm because the truck will clunk and then release. Its a split second thing but its enough to notice and make me worry a lot. I cant figure out why and ive done the plugs and wires but that didn't solve the problem. It only happens when its snowing or when I drive though a gust of wind that has stired up some snow. I know it must be something electrical because it only happens when there its cold and wet and not all the time. In the rain it does not matter but when it snows i just wont go out at all. The truck is a 2003 4.0 4x4 with a manual. Not a function of the 4 wheel drive it happened in 2wd as well.
View 14 RepliesI'm having a bit of trouble with my fathers '03 Ranger Edge 4.0L. It has about 100k miles on it, and we keep it very well maintained. This is the first major problem we've had with it.
When the problem first occured, it had been driven about 30 miles on the highway and about 5 miles after getting off the highway, he pulled up to an intersection and stopped. As he started accelerating again, it all of a sudden started sputtering, surging (almost exactly as if it were running out of gas), and then stalled. It continues to exhibit this behavior. It will start and idle fine, but struggle and then stall when given any amount of throttle. It's also an automatic transmission if that makes any difference.
Fast forward to this past week after we had it towed home. We have checked the fuel pressure, and its dead on at about 64psi. We changed the fuel filter, changed the PCV valve, changed the upstream O2 sensor, put in a new air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor, and cleaned the intake of the throttle body. We're now at a loss as to what could be causing the problem. The CEL is not on, and there are no codes being shown when we plugged it in. We also thought it may have been bad gas, so we drained the tank and put fresh gas in from our preferred station. The plugs and wires are also fairly new, only about 4k miles on them.
Are we missing anything here? What else we could try? The absolute last resort is taking it to a shop, we're going through a rough patch with finances.
My 2003 ranger xlt 4.0 has a stalling problem. The engine light came on in aug and I had it coded at AutoZ and there was a code for the oxy sensor, changed that and didn't work so I took it back. In oct I had it coded and it said the air int temp sensor which i was informed was part of the mas airflow sensor, changed that the beginning of nov, got the computer to reset and it still didn't fix it.
Took that part back and had it coded again a few days later and several codes came up AutoZ code 1732 and the the OEM number to cross for them were: P2195 , P0300 , P0316 , P0174 , P0171 , P2197 . Reset the comp yesterday and as soon as the light came on had them code it again and it came up AutoZ code 1732 OEM # to cross P2195. I guess my next step will be to take it to the dealers to get diagnosed..