I have a 2003 ranger with 2.3. I drive it daily but it has started to sputter and jerk. The truck has 94000 on it and I bought it new. It sat for over a year but has been driven every day for the last year. It started a couple months ago but would just do it for a second, now I cant drive it on the highway. I think it might be injectors but how do I know for sure?
View 12 RepliesI have a 2000 3.0l ranger. I have been battling an ignition problem. every time the engine is cold it runs terrible like only 3 or 4 cylinders running terrible. if u put a timing light on the wires the pulse comes and goes on random wires. and when it quits that it has a random sputter at idle and misses around 4k when u get into the throttle ...
I have replaced plugs twice and the coil with motorcraft parts and the wires are new autolites. I have also replaced the thermostat and fan clutch it was getting hot in the middle of this other issue ...
Every time I replace something it runs great for a few days then back to running terrible again. am I missing something else do I need to look at a computer or map or tps sensors, or something like that ...
1999 Ranger 4.0. I have an issue with my ranger. Sometimes the truck runs awesome.While driving along the truck will miss and sputter and buck, when this happens, I almost can't maintain my speed. Sometimes when this happens if I put the truck in neutral and shut it off and restart it. The problem will temporarily go away. Occasionally it will go away on its own. When it goes away on its own it's like someone flipped a switch and all power is returned and running smooth. When the truck is at idle it depends on the mood of the truck, sometimes it's fine and other times it wants to die. I got to make this truck last awhile longer.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2004 3.5L Santa Fe with about 170k miles on it.
Runs great. I am going to change the timing belt here in the next week or so.
I have started having an issue where going into second gear it will jerk, almost like sputter. Does not do it all the time. Seems like a sensor or computer issue because the rest of the gears shift smooth. And if was a problem with the internals of the transmission I would think it would always do it and never go away.
What the issue could be since I am already going to be digging deep into the vehicle might be worth replacing more parts, what it is.
So I replaced my turbo about 2 years ago give or take and maybe 15-20k miles on it since. The last few weeks my car has been running some what weird so i decided to bring it to the shop. The guy thinks its my turbo but its hard for me to believe. Here are the symptoms it was having..
1) Lose of power
2) When I was on the high way i would floor it and it just wouldn't go. It would accelerate after 60 mph and it would almost be at a stand still. A few times it almost lost power completely and i had the pedal to the ground and it was decelerating.
3) When I would drive the car would sputter and jerk like almost it wasn't getting gas.
4) After a overnight where it was shut off, the next day i would go turn it on and it would barely turn over and it would be rough for a few seconds.
5) The exhuast/muffler after accelerating would pop
6) I don't hear my turbo spooling as loud and as much as it use to.
Could this be some sort of sensor or even the fuel pump? I feel that it wouldn't have some of these issues if it was the turbo compared to something else.
I have a 2002 Chevy Impala driving it in the city of Chicago. It's recently had the oil changed, and the transmission fluid flushed and filter replaced. This car was mine before I went off to school, and I meticulously maintained it for three years, and then my step sister inherited it. She drove it for two years, and then it sat in the driveway for a year and a half. It's got about 175,000 miles on it.
Problem: Every time I start to accelerate past 25mph and get around 2000rpms, the car starts to give out, sputter and jerk. It starts to drop off right when it should be shifting to second gear. When on the highway, even if I floor the gas peddle, it won't accelerate normally, but instead just crawls slowly to higher speeds.
It will eventually reach the higher speeds, but it takes about 5-10 minutes for it climb up from 25mph. I don't know enough about this level of car trouble to make a diagnosis myself, and would like an estimate of the cost for repairs. Also the car is getting around 19mpg on the highway, which I need to improve if I'm going to survive the $4.50/gal of Chicago gas. I'm hoping that fixing this problem will take care of that as well.
Looking for an image of pvc valve location....2003 ranger 3.0......
View 2 RepliesMy 03 ranger with a 2.3 I4 does not want to restart when it is above about 80 deg outside and engine is warm. Will crank, but as soon as fuel in line runs out it stalls, like a vapor lock. After about 45 mins can push start normally( has manual trans) but have to wait about 2 hours to use starter to start.
View 11 RepliesRecently bought a 2003 Ranger Edge with 101,000 miles. Step side. Having trouble filling up with gas. Replaced the hose from the filler neck to the tank (the one with a 90 degree bend) still no luck. It was collapsed.
View 5 RepliesIt first started with a huge lose in power (can't rev over 3,500 rpm or get over ~55 mph) and a pig on gas! P0125 showed up so after looking for a while I figured I would change the sending unit
- Single wire (3F1Z-12A648-A), coolant temp sensor (ECT I believe) to PCM
- Two wires (F7DZ-10884-AA) and then the thermostat.
- Throughout this time the heater worked perfectly fine. The temperature gauge would get up to C but never very far from it. I would never get to the middle.
In doing so I drained the coolant took off the intake hose (cleaned the butterfly valve in the process) then got clean access to the sensors and the two 10mm screws for the thermostat. I got it all off and apart just fine minus the one stubborn plug on the sending unit (single wire). Putting the sensors back in took more effort then taking them out it could have been the anti-seize or thread sealant that came on it. Anyways, I also noticed that BOTH the new sensors I picked up from the dealership looked identical. Both of them looked similar to this:
Granted the tops were different colors but the ends (metal) were the same or at least I couldn't tell the difference. The ones I took out of the block were definitely different. The sender (single wire) looked like the one above but the sensor looked like this with the pointed tip (I can upload pictures too):
I put the coolant temp sensor in first (two wires) and the plug went on fine. Put the sender (single wire) in and I couldn't get the cap on... it was too tight. I looked at the old one and it seemed like one of the ribs to guide the plug on was off by the thickness of the rib... I tried again and thought maybe it was me and eventually cracked the cap.
Now the coolant gauge doesn't work at all doesn't even move. I then got it scanned and saw P0117 come up... Is this for the sender (1 wire) or the sensor (2 wires). Also I read that once P0017 comes up it could be difficult to start the truck... I thought it was because there was gunk left over from me cleaning the butterfly valve but that may be it instead.
My questions are... Did I mix the sensors up? I really don't think so I double checked before I put them in that only one was open at a time. Was I given the wrong sensor for the coolant temp as it looked different at the tip? I have no clue? Looking at threads for P0117 it seems to be the sensor. I will be going back to Ford tomorrow am to take the old ones in to check. Why wouldn't the plug fit on the sender (single wire)?... I have no clue.
2003. Ranger xlt with the 4.0.... So I just bought this truck and was informed that the vacuum might not be functioning correctly. And here's the symptoms. It idles a little rough, nothing major. When I put the truck into gear either drive or reverse, it stalls out almost every time unless I give it some gas and hold the brake. But after that I could drive it all day with out a problem, as long as I don't put it into park. And last it starts a little hard. But the damn thing runs great while driving it. It's still very snappy even having high miles.
View 4 RepliesMy 2003 ranger, 4.0l, 5 spd manual with 295K miles has no power on acceleration. Engine shutters/stalls. The following have been replaced in last 20k miles; fuel pump, plugs/wires, mass flow sensor and fuel filter. Last week left for work and could not go faster than 50 mph. Condition has gotten worse (barely goes past 40 mph).
Changed filter with no improvement.
Checked fuel pressure - constant at 65 psi.
Changed coil - no change.
The tank of gas I put in just before problem was from station with tanker dumping while I pumped. That tank is out of truck; filled from different station. Also put can of seafoam in tank. No change.
Ok, basic rundown. Stop at a red light, turns green, when i go it gives a strange grindy-growl from the rear. Lasts maybe 2 seconds then its gone. its very uncommon. But it is something i am interested in getting figured out. Doesn't happen any other time, only on complete stops.
View 2 Replies2002 3.0, 43,000 miles. Intermittent 'chirping' has begun. Is this the "wear indicator" on the belt tensioner? If so, what is it telling me? And where do I put the breaker bar to slack off tension...Red Arrow, or Blue arrow? They both look like bolts...I was expecting to see a 3/8" square opening...and do I turn clockwise or CCW to slack it all...
View 9 RepliesOkay so the other day my ranger wouldn't start after i got off work, it would turnover only occasionally but now it wont even do that. I've tried the fule turn on/off switch underneath the passenger glove box. I unscrewed the fuel like valve cap and pressed the pin but the fuel like barely squirted out so does it mean my fuel pump is bad or what??
View 9 RepliesI own a 2003 3.o v-6 ranger, after a short or long drive, my truck has a hard time starting.. Starts fine before any driving..
View 12 RepliesI bought a 2003 Ford Ranger, 2.3, 5 speed manual. It is hard to shift after it warms up. I test drove it when it was below freezing, so I didn't notice it at first. The warmer the day and quicker the truck warms up, the worse it is. It goes into gear with no problem when the engine is off or if I'm still moving, but if I'm stopped there are times it is hard to get into gear. This really sounded like a clutch that wasn't fully disengaging to me, so I decided to pull it apart. I didn't check the movement at the slave before I started, but I did find the master was a little wet at the rod in the cab.
So, I did the following:
- New clutch master cylinder (system bled out of truck to eliminate air)
- New slave cylinder and bearing
- New pilot bearing
- Changed transmission fluid - Mercon III ATF
I inspected the clutch/pressure plate and it was in good shape and looked like it might have had 10K - 20K miles on it. The last owner said it was recently replaced and it looked it. So, I put it back in. After I was done, I checked the movement at the slave/pressure plate and it is moving about 3/8" - 1/2" when the pedal is down. I was happy and thought this would solve the problem since the old pilot bearing seemed stiff and I saw the leak on the back of the master cylinder.
I drove it and all felt fine at first, but it was a cool day and I didn't drive it that long. When it was warmer over the next couple of days, it started getting hard to shift again. It's not been quite as bad as before, but still doesn't shift right.
'03 Ranger, 2.3L. Runs great except at idle. Code p0171. Replaced IAC, no luck.
Brake cleaner leak test definitely results in engine rpm change right around "butterfly rod" plug in front of intake manifold near no. 1 cyl. I'm pretty sure that's the problem - the plastic plug blew out. I watched a video showing repair, but it seems lacking.
I do not want to loosen up intake for access - I'd rather remove steering pump and gain some access to plug it up. There still isn't much access but, but eyeballing it, enough to plug, I think.
Three steering pump bolts came out easy. The fourth one is behind fluid line - extremely difficult to access, imo.
Somehow try to remove pump for access to intake hole, or bite the bullet and remove intake manifold for access?
Is it possible to replace just the glass on the outside mirrors on a 2003 Ranger?
If so, how is it done?
I have an 03 Ranger 3.0 a/t. A little while back I had a clogged cat, so I took out all the cats and since then it has slowly developed a ticking sound from what sounds like the top of the heads. What that might be?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2003 Ranger Edge 2dr.ext cab 3.0 manual transmission 6'bed.. I want to haul some patio pavers so how much weight can I carry?
View 14 Replies