I lost my backup lights. The owners manual does not list a power source (fuse) for the 4.0. I do not see a bad fuse, however I suspect that the backup lights are fused somehow somewhere on a 4.0. I do not have a manual for the 2003 Ranger.
View 9 RepliesI'm wiring a backup camera and I need to energize a wire with +12v source that turns on when the truck is placed into reverse.
If I can connect the wire to 12v which automatically energizes when the truck is shifted into reverse, the backup camera will turn on automatically.
Surely I could pull the signal from the reverse lights, but I'd like to find something in the fuse panel because that is where the wire terminates and I'd rather not extend it all the way to the reverse lights on the back of the truck.
Where's a +12v source in the fuse box area under dash that energizes when the truck is put into reverse?
I am having a real hard problem trying to find the ideal place to mount my backup camera on my 2004 Ford Ranger... Looking for some pics of your mounting location.. Closest to the center of the bumper would be best if possible...
View 13 Replies2003 ranger xlt 4wd electrical - My radio lights up when driving lights are on but no clock display or anything else. My cigarette lighter and aux power outlet do not work and mym 4wd does not work. when i try to change from 2wd to 4wd no lights come on in the dash. I have checked all fuses and they are good. What to check next?
View 4 RepliesMy 16 year old F250 4X4 diesel has developed a problem with no backup lights working, and the vacuum pump is not getting power. The fuse (#28) checks out OK, and I'm told to check for a broken wire on or near the backup switch. I don't know where to locate the backup switch. I have the huge Ford Service manuals, but they are written with the perspective that you should already know where the switches are. Where to find the switch?
View 4 RepliesIt first started with a huge lose in power (can't rev over 3,500 rpm or get over ~55 mph) and a pig on gas! P0125 showed up so after looking for a while I figured I would change the sending unit
- Single wire (3F1Z-12A648-A), coolant temp sensor (ECT I believe) to PCM
- Two wires (F7DZ-10884-AA) and then the thermostat.
- Throughout this time the heater worked perfectly fine. The temperature gauge would get up to C but never very far from it. I would never get to the middle.
In doing so I drained the coolant took off the intake hose (cleaned the butterfly valve in the process) then got clean access to the sensors and the two 10mm screws for the thermostat. I got it all off and apart just fine minus the one stubborn plug on the sending unit (single wire). Putting the sensors back in took more effort then taking them out it could have been the anti-seize or thread sealant that came on it. Anyways, I also noticed that BOTH the new sensors I picked up from the dealership looked identical. Both of them looked similar to this:
Granted the tops were different colors but the ends (metal) were the same or at least I couldn't tell the difference. The ones I took out of the block were definitely different. The sender (single wire) looked like the one above but the sensor looked like this with the pointed tip (I can upload pictures too):
I put the coolant temp sensor in first (two wires) and the plug went on fine. Put the sender (single wire) in and I couldn't get the cap on... it was too tight. I looked at the old one and it seemed like one of the ribs to guide the plug on was off by the thickness of the rib... I tried again and thought maybe it was me and eventually cracked the cap.
Now the coolant gauge doesn't work at all doesn't even move. I then got it scanned and saw P0117 come up... Is this for the sender (1 wire) or the sensor (2 wires). Also I read that once P0017 comes up it could be difficult to start the truck... I thought it was because there was gunk left over from me cleaning the butterfly valve but that may be it instead.
My questions are... Did I mix the sensors up? I really don't think so I double checked before I put them in that only one was open at a time. Was I given the wrong sensor for the coolant temp as it looked different at the tip? I have no clue? Looking at threads for P0117 it seems to be the sensor. I will be going back to Ford tomorrow am to take the old ones in to check. Why wouldn't the plug fit on the sender (single wire)?... I have no clue.
168K, to date, replaced
rear 2 cat's
Timing chain and gears
cam sync assem.
Plugs, wires, dis block,
Why.............. Read on
This 2003 ranger 3.0 v6, run very hard at idle, yet it runs and you can drive it around town, ""at"" low rpm, and no hills but it gets from point a to point b
I have no pre ingintion, but a plug that was only 60 days only was burnt out completely on 3rd cyl. bank 1 or as ford call it #3, i am telling you this thing seem like it running on 4 cyl,s kicking back and forth, and replacing everything above made no difference.
On the highway, as long as it is flat or down hill 75-80 mph, as soon as a hill or power to pass is needed it bogs down and slows it self to about 45 mph, I have been though everything i can think of and my next move to to start pulling heads, but i wanted to ask here first.
I have an 03 Ranger 4.0 4x4 5 speed. It has no power, can't give throttle or it bogs real bad. Baro shows 18in vac with KOEO. When running it has 15in vac. Replaced MAF, fuel pump, and fuel filter.
View 4 RepliesMy brake lights will not work but all other lights do, bulbs and fuse have been replaced.
View 2 Replies1999 ford ranger 2X4 manual trans. My back up lights work sometimes and sometimes not.
View 1 Replies2001 ranger all buzzers and lights come on when i put my foot on the brake or turn key to on position. truck wont start
View 3 RepliesI have 87 Ford Ranger. 2.9L 4x4. Before any tips, I have checked the fuses, I have changed the Switch for the lights and the instrument cluster. Still no luck. I don't know if there is something wrong with the wiring. But what I was plan on doing is finding out on one of the Wiring Harnesses on the back of the Cluster which wire turns on the back lights on the cluster. Everything else on the cluster works (Gauges, Highbeam indicator, all the warning sign lights). What wires are what on the wiring harnesses. I was going to just run the wire to its own switch.
View 1 RepliesMy '96 ranger with a 4.0 auto will be running fine and then dies. When you go to start, the engine will will crank over. Also notice that there are no lights coming on the dash when the key is in the run position. A few hours latter the truck started right up. Not reading any codes. Transmission was rebuilt a few weeks before this problem.
View 6 RepliesI recently replaced all my incandescent lights on my 99 ford ranger which makes my truck stand out, but the issue I am having is all my exterior lights work including my turn lights but my running lights will not turn on. Is there any way I can fix this problem. I changed my flasher unit with one that is LED Capatable and i added load equalizers to the back to correct the issue with my turn signals but i just cant get my running lights to work....
View 14 RepliesHaving a problem with the brake lights. When the brake pedal is pressed, the running lights (including dash lights, parking lights, and the low power filament in tail light) turn on, but no brake lights. When the lights are turned on and brake pedal is pressed, the brake lights do not turn on at all. The 4 way flashers and signal lights work correctly with lights on and off. Things I have tried:
Replaced the tail light bulbs.
Checked fuses (#5, #10).
Disassembled the brake switch and bypassed it with a jumper wire.
Checked the grounds (tail lights, rear ground, drivers inner fender).
Tried to trace the wiring. Didn't see any noticeable damage, but the wiring is in a loom so it is hard to see.
Used contact cleaner on brake switch, rear wiring harness, body harness.
Still hoping it may be something simple that I've overlooked.
My 1998 ranger is a base model truck, 5-speed stick, 2.5L, 2wd, rubber and vinyl everything, manual everything, not even any A/C. Exactly what I wanted in my daily driver. This past weekend, I changed the heater core. Painfully (as if there's a non-painful way to replace a heater core in a modern vehicle). Thought I did everything right, reconnected everything that was connected to begin with, had no leftover fasteners, no plugs or wires hanging down, etc.
The only malfunction, besides the core, prior to the repair was an intermittent parking brake light when the parking brake was applied. Not a big deal. Now that the dash is put back together, none of the tail lights work, no running, brake, turn, or reverse, my interior light does not come on when the door opens, and the truck will turn over, but not start. I have reconnected the big screw-in plug on the steering column, checked a bunch of fuses, and gave a big middle finger to the plug on the backside of the light switch, and nothing seems to work.
What could cause something like this? Have any of you encountered a problem like this when changing cores or removing the dashboard? The truck is currently sitting in a parking space at my local fire station now that I've pushed it out (I'm a volunteer, so I made use of our empty 4th bay) and I'm sure my chief, while he is the blue-collar embodiment of Ned Flanders and one of the nicest people you could ever meet, does not want it staying there, parked all
I have a 1999 Ranger 4x4. My 4wd does not engage when I turn the switch to 4wd lo or 4wd hi. The lights on the dash flash on and off. I disconnected the battery and now the lights are clear. But if I try again to engage it, the lights return. I feel I have a vacuum issue but would like to know more about locking hubs. If I convert them over, how do I know that my system will work? There has to be something else that changes from 4wd lo to 4wd hi. How do I check to see if this is working properly.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1996 ford ranger and i have no tail lights i have license plate lights, brake lights, Hazard and turn signals. But no running lights on the rear end. Where the grounds are for this circuit and if some one has a schematic for this ranger...
View 9 RepliesSince last summer my truck keeps blowing fuse 26 and then I have no reverse lights. If I replace the fust its ok for a bit but blows again the same day sometime. The book says its the fuse for revers and overdrive. The overdrive button on the tree shifter stops working too but the truck does not seem to be revving any higher so I think the overdrive itself is fine. I can't find the short but its got to be shorting somewhere...
View 14 RepliesI've got a 2008 Ranger FX4, 4.0L with manual transmission. Recently I noticed that I have no reverse lights. I have to parallel park on busy streets from time to time, so this is a safety issue that I need to fix.
I checked the bulbs, both seem fine - would be unlikely that both bulbs would die simultaneously. I checked the fuse. Again unlikely unless the reverse lights were on their own independent circuit. 10A fuse looks fine too.
Last thing I can think of is a switch. I checked my Haynes Manual, there is no mention of it, which is odd, usually my manual is quite good. Where the switch is located? Any experience with swapping this out?
Just Bought 97 Ranger 2.3L 5 speed. Everything worked except interior cab light and cab brake light. Also the wipers and A/C blower only work on highest speed when I bought it. I assumed there was a problem with the switches, bulbs and/or fuses. But when I picked it up last evening I noticed the dash lights were very dim on the way home. Then when I got home I shut everything off and removed the key. I then opened the drivers door and touched the brake pedal and the dash lights and the parking lights came on along with the "key in ignition" bell alarm each time I touch the brake pedal. If I close the door the dash and parking lights come on but the key in ignition does not sound. With so many things malfunctioning I don't know where to start.
View 7 Replies