Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2003 - Misfiring On Start Up - Got Codes P0316 And P0304?
Jul 1, 2009
My 2003 ford ranger 3.0 v6 is having a misfire on start up and it is located in the forth cylinder. Where to start to get rid of this problem. i have already changed all my plugs wires and even the coil pack cleaned out the maf and looked for possible leaks. the car shakes really bad at lights and the check engine light starts to flash. Need diagram of where all the cylinder numbers are at and maybe the firing order?
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2003 F150 v6 2wd 170k ... For a year I've only had codes P0171 and P0174 (lean bank 1 and 2). I was told it wouldn't hurt anything... I think now I should have taken care of it.
Anyway 3 weeks ago my truck started running a little rough. It was sputtering and had trouble getting up to speed, sometimes also the air switches from vent to defrost until switch gears and rpms go down. It gradually got a lot worse over 10 days while part was otw. A week ago i changed MAF and cleaned the black thing it's inside of. It started running better but still not good. I pulled my small trailer 2 days ago and it got worse after dropping the trailer.
Today checked codes at AZ and lean codes are gone and have p0304 (#4 misfire) and p0316 (crank sensor problem). Is this related.? Also Right before all the trouble I changed battery and alternator. Also i read online that MAF needed 2 weeks to relearn the way I drive to get correct gas/air ratio? Is that correct?
Also I read so many different things I needed to do during installation... Some say I need to turn key to the on position after unplugging old MAF then plug new one in... turn key to on position 10 times, Rev up engine, drive it rough for the first 2 minutes... etc. Is there a correct way to do it or is it vehicle specific?
Should I start by changing spark plugs and coils? The guy i bought it from and trust said he changed spark plugs right before I bought it. Will it ruin truck if I drive it? I've read so much but everyone says so much different things on the same topic. I'd what to start with or if this is related.
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I love my Ranger. I'm quite impressed with the power and durability. I'm ticked at Ford for stopping production.
I have searched my problem and could not quite narrow it down. I have also tried several remedies with no improvement. I need to narrow it down to a specific item.
2004 Ranger, 4.0 liter, 4x4, 131,000 miles, runs great above idle.
Problem: rough idle, idles at about 750 rpm's. If i raise the rpm's to 850 and up, smooth as silk.
The truck did this a few years back. Not quite as rough and it went away by itself.
Engine light came on this time with P0303 & P0316 codes. I have replaced: plugs, wires, coil pack. I know that the #3 plug is sparking quite well. the #3 injector is getting signal to spray not sure if it is. I have 4 O2 sensors and I believe I tested them correctly (passed). The passenger side upstream or pre cat sensor has not been tested yet. Had to rent a tool and will do that in morning. I slid a piece of aluminum roof flashing between the crank position sensor and the crank pulley. Not a noticeable difference. While at idle (750 rpm's) I pulled each (#3,2,1,) (one at a time) injector wire plugs off the injectors. No noticeable difference. I pulled the vacuum line off the egg and operated it with a vacuum tool. Seems to be working fine. Sprayed carb cleaner around on vac lines. No engine surge
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A couple of weeks ago I got a check engine light. Pulling the codes I saw that it was a p0304 and sometimes a p0316. The first time this happened I check the spark plug cables and one was loose (cycylinder 4). Then last week my fuel pump died. since then I have gotten the two codes on a somewhat continous basis. I replaced the plugs (needed to anyway) and the problem did not go away.
The odd thing is that the check engine light does not come on at idle. IT only comes on after the motor is at a higher rev. The replaced plugs looked pretty normal, but the cylinder 4 plug had some carbon deposits. I am currently running injector cleaner in the gas. I may go ahead and replace the plug wires since the current ones are high mileage and it is not an expensive fix.
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I have an 02 ranger xlt 3.0, it started having a rough idle, codes say cylinder #2&3 misfiring, changed plugs, wires, coil pack, didn't work, still same code, checked injectors on right side, all 3 had ohm reading of 15.8-16.5, the injectors were clicking like they are supposed to, sprayed carb cleaner around the intake ports, didn't change the idle at all,what else can I check or do? with out tearing the engine apart, unless of course I have to, the truck has been very good to me, it's got 205,000 miles on it, I need it to last at least another year...
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I have a 2003 ford ranger edge with the 3.0l engine. It started acting up today so i brought it to get checked because the check engine light came on. Three codes where pulled p0300, p0306, and p0313. They were multiple/random cylinders misfiring, cylinder 6 misfire, and first misfire at 1000 rpm. I have replaced the plugs and coil and still have the trouble.
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I have a 2003 F150 V6 4.2L, 171,000 miles on it. I have four codes on it.
#p1518
#p0316
#p0303
#p0136
I had a p1518 in november of 2012, had it repaired and its back. In the time that I had it repaired and it came back on (maybe a month and a half ago) I only drove the truck maybe 3000 miles, if that. Just curious if this particular part should have some kind of warranty either by the MFG or dealer since the dealer repaired it. Have a limited budget, trying to find out what I can fix on my own in a timely manner.
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2008 Ranger 3.0L. I am trying to figure my next step in diagnosing a #4 misfire. At regular speeds I really dont hear it or feel it, mostly at idle warm or cold. 3.0L with 275,000 kilometers on it , reg oil changes.The CEL is on, but not blinking. Pulled a p0304 code. I then changed out the bosch plugs I had in with ford plugs and wires. The #4 plug looked okay just bigger gap. Still got the code.
I hooked up a sparkplug light to the coilpack and did not see any missing flashes . Changed fuel filter, checked fuel pressure,all within specs. Changed the oil and did not see anything in it. I read that it could be an injector but I have to remove the intake manifold to get at it. I also read to check compression. I figured if I have to take off the manifold I would put a new injector in, instead of switching them around. What is the most common cause for this code?
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I have a small problem that has been going on for about the last 6 months. It only appears once in a while, and only when I have parked facing uphill for longer than a day or so. Upon first start (cold) after sitting pointed uphill for a day or two, it starts real rough and sputters a bit. Then when I check codes, I always have a pending P0316 (misfire within the first 1000 revolutions) along with a P0306 or P0301. No dash lights or anything.
Since those two cylinders are at the front of the motor, could it be that the fuel is leaking back down the rail and leaving those two injectors dry? It isn't always both cylinders, sometimes one or the other. If this is the sign of something bigger on the horizon, I would like to have a heads up.
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My father called me last night to say that his 2004 Ranger, 2.3L engine would not start. He said it cranked over but would not fire. The only other problems this truck has had was a misfire about 6 months ago, which was corrected by a new coil (wires and plugs were changed at that time also).
I looked at it this morning, starting off by cranking it just to see for myself. It cranked fine, stumbled some as if it was trying to fire but never would catch, and I noticed immediately the smell of raw gas from the exhaust pipe. It acted flooded, but injected vehicles are not supposed to flood, so...
No "check engine" light was on, and no codes at all showed on my Actron code scanner. The truck has a half tank of fuel in it, was last filled about a week and a half ago, and was last started about four days ago. It is kept in a garage, currently at about 45 degrees F. It ran fine up until the failure to start last night. I can hear the fuel pump running, and the two plug wires I pulled and checked were firing. I installed the wires back, held the pedal to the floor, cranked it over, and after a few seconds it fired and ran! On the second restart it started a little reluctantly, but multiple times after that it seemed to start fine.
We let it set for an hour or so, went out to try it again, and it would not start again. After I pushed the fuel pedal in just slightly, it fired and ran fine. I repeated this a couple more times while the engine was still cold; no start without touching the pedal, but would start if I cracked the pedal just a little bit. Once started the engine would idle high (1000-1100 rpm or so) for just a few seconds, then idle down as it should when warm.
I'm puzzled by no code, but I'm wondering if the IAC is bad, causing a no-air "flooding" condition if the fuel pedal is not depressed to crack open the throttle plate. That would explain the strong smell of raw gas at first. But, it seems like the IAC is controlling the idle briefly right after the engine starts, but it doesn't seem to be keeping the idle up as long as it should. Would the IAC throw a code if it were not working correctly?
My other suspicion is the TPS, but again without a code I am not sure. My Actron scanner is one of the better models and will read data from the engine; is there a way to check the AIC and TPS function once I do get it running?
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I've got a 2003 Ranger 2.3L DOHC, 5 speed, 2WD. It has a check engine light with codes :
P0316-Engine Misfire Detected On Startup
P0704-Clutch Switch Input Circuit Fault
P2195-O2 Sensor Excess Lean Signal Bank 1-Sensor 1
P0171-System Too Lean (Bank 1)
The truck runs fine when coasting or accelerating but when holding a steady light throttle to maintain speed the truck starts bucking and jerking. It's doesn't feel like a misfire, more like a fuel cut out condition. When this happens and you come to a stop, you can smell that the exhaust is very rich coming out of the tailpipe. I've already replaced the upstream O2 sensor and I did a tune up about 15k ago. I'm thinking fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. I doubt if this is related, but on start up (more so on a cold start up) the A/C compressor clutch kicks in and out 3-5 times and makes a terrible racket.
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My '03 Ranger is having a high idle problem. It's a 3.0, manual, 2wd, 141,000 miles. When it's cold it will idle at about 1500 but once I drive it, even just to the end of the block, it will idle at about 3000 and shoot up towards that between shifts. At a traffic light it will idle at 3000 and maybe go down to about 2500. If I bog it down with the clutch it goes right back up once I put the clutch back in or put it in neutral.
I replaced the IAC, no luck. I cleaned the MAF and checked the voltage on the TPS and it is good. I replaced the PVC valve, but the old one was fine anyway. I've sprayed around with carb cleaner and don't notice any difference. I've plugged it into my dad's AutoTap which lets me monitor everything on my laptop and the only thing I can see that looks suspicious is that even with the engine off, the Absolute Throttle Angle reads 18.8%. If I step on the gas with the engine off it goes up to 91.8% so I would imagine that just has to do with the function of the TPS and probably isn't out of the ordinary, but I don't really know what that number means or what the Absolute Throttle Angle is or is supposed to be.
Short of taking the intake plenum off and physically inspecting it for cracks, I'm stumped.
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So, my 2003 F150 4.6 that I just put back on the road after a four month break is running like crap. I took it off the road for the winter because it was missing (no codes) and didn't feel like dealing with it then but after running it for a day the CEL comes on. It shows the following:
P0304 - hoping it is a coil pack
P0456 - pending. Gas cap?
P0171 - pending. One bank too lean?
Does the 171 code possibly have to do with the misfire in Cylinder 4? I know it is impossible to tell yet but am hoping there is a potential connection.
Before I parked it in January, it was running a bit rough and stumbled on acceleration but never would show a code. Now all this. Going to change the coil first, tighten the gas cap, check for leaks and see what happens but is there anything common on these trucks that I should also be looking at?
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I got this 98 Ranger 2.5 that I've done a tune-up on less than 30,000 miles ago. I changed plugs, wires, and both coil packs. Timing belt, thermostat, fuel pump, fuel injectors are all recently changed too within a year or two. Fuel filter and air filter I change every 30,000 miles. The truck runs as great as a 4 Cylinder will run. It's at 344,000 miles but the engine was changed once so it probably has over 100,000 miles on it. There is just a slight miss you can hear through the tailpipe but it's not severe enough to be picked up by the Check Engine Light. In fact, even when the coils were totally gone it never put up the Check Engine Light. I can tell when a coil pack is going out on this because it's done it several times so I usually just change them with the tune-up. It's only a slight miss some people may not even notice it. I was just wondering is there any way to track down where the miss is? I tried looking under the hood in the pitch black and there's no plug arcing.
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My ranger just started running very rough. Like misfiring, but I think it may be the fuel pump. It starts and drives...but it surges then drives normal, as if fuel is being fed, then starved, then force fed etc. My father asked if I had trouble starting it and to be honest in the last 6 months it was a little harder to start on several occasions. On a few occasions it required more cranking. But that was only a few times.
I tried putting in a fuel injector cleaner and 93 octane gas but it is still running even rougher now. I changed out the fuel filter under the rail about a year ago (maybe 8000 miles ago at most). My father thinks the fuel pump is shot and he laughed because his went on his expedition and he said it is inside the fuel tank and there is no way to get at it without dropping the tank. Is that true? 2002 ranger xl 4cyl
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I am having the above codes come up P0316 and PO305. The car is running rough...just started tonight. The check engine light started flashing but it's on continuously. Of course when I had the codes read at a Firestone they gave absolutely no support as to what it could be.
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My brother's 87 ford ranger 2.3L truck began to have problems. It would be running great, then start to misfire, run rough, sputter, shake and loose accelleration then die. Then it wouldn't start back up for a long time, sometimes til the next day. Little by little, the truck would drive a shorter and shorter distance between breakdowns. He first tried some minor work himself, (basic tune up) - replaced his rotor, cap, plugs, air filter, fuel filter, but that didn't fix it. He went to one garage (big mistake), who said the fuel pump pressure was fine but said he found a broken wire on the harness grounding out and it needed new ignition module and replaced it. (Cost was $350.00+), Garage promised to honor any additional work nec if it continued to have the same problem, and would be free of charge.
Five more breakdowns later and two more "better quality ignition modules", new battery terminals, and 1 new computer later, this joker did more unauthorized work and demanded another $200+ besides the fact of breaking his orig agreement "free of charge" if any further problems! Needless to say, second garage fixed the truck by replacing the magnetic pickup, part # DU 30-C (an electrical part that goes in the distributor and pulsates a current to operate the timing) (it does something like that) and the truck has been driven approximately 40-60 miles as of today, (3 days later), without breaking down. All the other times when picked up from incompetent garage, it wouldn't go more than 1 - 7 miles before breaking down and each time they didn't fix it.
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I have a 99 ford ranger xlt 4.0 ohv basically it sputters so bad while driving it sounds like a dump truck but it all started when I changed my o2 sensors but in doing so I broke my heater control valve and when I was going down the road it started sputtering well it started sputtering so I checked the o2 sensors there good and I changed the heater control valve. But nothing so I changed my coil pack spark plugs and wires but still nothing. But on my reader it says cylinders 2,3, and 4 are misfiring and bank 1 and 2 are running lean plus it has a bad aroma of gas in the engine compartment but when it idles its somewhat smooth but when I'm driving it its horrible the sputtering is so bad it takes awhile to get up to speed plus I'm only getting 100 miles to a whole tank that's like 8 or 9 mpg I need to fix this soon. This is my only transportation...
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My 03 ranger with a 2.3 I4 does not want to restart when it is above about 80 deg outside and engine is warm. Will crank, but as soon as fuel in line runs out it stalls, like a vapor lock. After about 45 mins can push start normally( has manual trans) but have to wait about 2 hours to use starter to start.
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Okay so the other day my ranger wouldn't start after i got off work, it would turnover only occasionally but now it wont even do that. I've tried the fule turn on/off switch underneath the passenger glove box. I unscrewed the fuel like valve cap and pressed the pin but the fuel like barely squirted out so does it mean my fuel pump is bad or what??
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My 04 F-150 has recently been blowing these two codes. I've replaced the coil pack already and it is still making the check engine line come off. Just put some injector cleaner in the tank last night, so that might take a while to work through. What I should be looking for?
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