Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2003 - Cruise Control Set Button Broken / Accelerator Stuck
Feb 11, 2013
2003 ford edge 3.0 V6 ... I was driving down interstate today going 70, set my cruise control & the button broke. My accelerator was stuck, when I would hit the brakes it would literally shake the whole truck. What happened & why?
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The cruise control switch on my 2000 Ranger just broke. It looks like you have to remove the airbag to access it. How is that accessed? It looks like there are 2 plugs on the back of the wheel that need to be removed.
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So I'm motoring along a country road with the cruise set at 50 mph and the truck starts to increase speed.
Tap the brake - nothing happens. I'm up to 65 mph! Knock it into neutral and it revs to around 3,500 rpms and then it unsticks.
What in the world is going on with that? After thinking on it, a few miles farther on and I set the cruise again.
It began immediately picking up speed. I hit the brake and nothing happened. Then I hit the off button and nothing happened.
So again I bumped it up into neutral and it did the same thing - revved for a moment and then kicked off.
The dealership where I get my service done can't get to it for several days. So I'm checking in the meanwhile to see possibilities to identify a cause.
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My 2000 4.0 XLT Ranger has been without working cruise control for several months now. I've checked what appear to be likely related fuses and they're all good. I *DID* have a recent problem with my brake lights but that's been fixed. (The shop that replaced my rear leaf spring hanger brackets pinched a hot wire between the brackets and the frame which eventually shorted. Wire and fuse were replaced.)
A few years back, Ford had a recall related to the Cruise Controls causing fires. I had the recall service performed on this truck. In a nutshell: The switch to disengage cruise when braking is attached to the master brake cylinder, and a leak in the switches diaphragm allows brake fluid into the switch causing an electrical short, causing the wires to heat up, and in some cases causing a fire. Ford, instead of switching to a different switch design (like maybe a mechanical switch on the pedal?) put a fuseable link in the hot wire from the potentially leaky switch.
Well, the truck now has over 150K miles on the factory brake cylinder/cruise control switch. I'm suspecting that my switch finally leaked, shorted and blew the fuseable link. Would Ford fix it? (They should, considering the lame fix for a lame design flaw.)
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It started with the cruise control turning off every once in a while. Then it would only stay on for 7-8 seconds, then eventually it would turn on, then shut right off. Now it won't even turn on.
When I did the diagnosis sequence (On, Resume, Coast, Set....) it blinked 3 times saying "Bad deactivation switch or circuit". So I replaced the blue switch on the brake pedal and it still doesn't engage.
It's a 4.0 liter with a manual tranny. I've been researching this a lot, and it seems in 2007 they changed up things probably because of the big recall.
I don't see any kind of deactivation switch around the master cylinder. It seems that was in use until 2006 or 2005.
I see a different kind of switch on the clutch pedal, thinking it must also have a deactivation switch. I see a long spring loaded type of switch with about 5-6 wires coming out of it, but I can't find any info on the web about that switch.
All three of my brake lights are working. It seemed to deteriorate rather quickly (Over the course of 3 days) and now it's completely dead.
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I am normally on the super duty side but I have a 2002 ranger 3.0 auto EX cab if that matters with this issue. My cruse control will only come on rarely but when i does it works fine. Most of the time when I hit the ON button the indicator only blinks like a "relay" of some sort is not latching up. Don't know if this is an all solid state system or if there are electro mechanical relays involved as well. When it does work and I hit the brakes it will drop out completely rather than just disconnect from the controller and need to hit the ON button again, usually with no results.
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today my 98 ranger 4.0 would love to have cruise control once again .
I have checked the obvious , fuses connectors etc. I know on my f250 they had an issue with the pressure sensor mounted on the brake master cylinder leaking , I did check that and not leaking yet . I can't even get the system to turn on. So my question to to the forum , is there a common issue with ranger cruise control that I am unaware of ?
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My AC clutch, radio, cruise control, and turn signals are not working. I have checked all fuses and relays that I can find, all good. From what I have read, these are not part of the GEM function. What I need to check next!
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My cruise control has been out for awhile and I have run the diagnostic test several times, earlier this year and now again recently. The cruise control light blinks after I push the ON and RESUME buttons, but no blink for the COAST button. I suspect there is a problem in the wiring, but I wanted to get your thoughts before I replace the switches. 2007 Ranger XLT ....
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When I had my heads replaced, the mechanic informed me that my cruise control cable was broken. News to me. It worked fine before. He said he couldn't find a replacement. I went to my local Ford parts dept. and they told me it was a discontinued item.
So I went online and ordered one from Direct Ford Parts and it did not match. The part number was FMC-F49Z9A825JA. In the parts catalog it says it fits 92-97. Not even close. The one I have has a screw off top and the one sent has a bolt on housing.
1997 Ford Aerostar 4.0 ... I really need my cruise control ...
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There is always something.... I just drove my girlfriend's new 2003 ranger edge home from the seller. Real nice truck. I noticed the heater selector doesn't change the air flow. It is on full blast for the defrosters, and is also trickling out of the floor and dash vents. No matter where you put the selector, thats the only place the air comes out.
The temp control seem to work OK, when you turn it on cold, you get cold air and visa versa. Even on AC and MAx AC... air out the defrosters. It's cold when you turn the temp control to cold.
I did some searching here and gather some info on checking the vac lines etc. Everything looks in place but one detail. The vac ball under the hood under the air box has 2 ports on the front end, and only one grey line going into it. The other port has what looks like a rubber boot and part of a very short vac line broken off it.
I looked, I cant find any loose vac lines. I'd like to know if this second port is suppose to have a second line on it, and where does it go? What color is it? Is this the reason the vent selector isnt working?
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My speedometer stopped working yesterday after i replaced the 2 cruise control buttons on the steering wheel. When i connected the the battery the horn started blasting and I went over tap the horn then it stopped. Then i noticed that the horn did not work anymore. I put back the original cruise control buttons and still did not work .So know instead of fixing the cruise control buttons, I broke the horn and the speedometer while the cruise control is still broken. I checked the fuses and they all are good. What can it be ?
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I've got an 83 ranger that has proven to be a bit of a head-ache. For starters it's got a persistent oil leak. It's somewhere in the area of the distributor, intake manifold, block region on the backside of the engine, but I can't get back there to see it.
Secondly, the truck only seems to want to start when I give it gas. Even when I use starter fluid, it will only get to an idle if I hold it to the floor when I turn the key. What this might be?
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Just noticed today that my cruise control on/off button is sticking. Push to off it stays pushed off, push it up to on and it stays up so i must physically center it myself. Is there a way to remove the button and take it apart to clean and regrease the contacts so it doesnt stick? Kinda dumb actually since i might have used it eight or ten times since buying the truck new....
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I have a 1984 Ford Ranger 4x4 with 2.8L V6, carburetor number E37E-AEA. The accelerator pump diaphragm is perforated.
Small holes are visible when I hold it up to a light. Is this part available anywhere? Is it included in these carb repair kits that I see on a lot of auto parts sites? The sites don't list the contents of their "kits."
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My wife has a 2009 Camry LE, 4cyl with approximately 63,000 miles on it. Yesterday when driving it, I went to turn the cruise control off and my finger slipped, causing the button to pop out. Both of us have tried to fix it and I know I tried at least three or four different ways to reinstall the little three prong copper piece and no luck. The cruise control still refuses to work.
Having problem with the button popping out and been able to fix it? If so, how did you fix it? I hope it's something simple, such as re-installing the copper piece a certain way.
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ok this is my first diesel ever its an 01 7.3 powerstroke 250 4x4 . with 4 inch exhaust and used to have a programmer on it but it is supposedly back to stock. so I can be driving say in 4th gear and just hit the on button for cruise control without cruise being on and my boost will go from like 15 to 30lbs pretty quickly.... why on earth would it do this the previous owner was an old man who pulled horse trailers and had no clue why either ???
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So, instead of pushing the throttle cable back and then off, I tried to pop it off and broke the little tab. I've been trying to look for a replacement, but all I'm coming up with is an entire throttle body. Not too bad, but would still like to fix it for much cheaper. It's a 2002 F150 with a 5.4L.
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As the title says the cruise control is not working, the cruise light comes on but no workee after pressing the the set button. I have followed the steps according the the owners manual.
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I have a 1994 4x2 shortbed standard cab Ranger XLT. It has the 4.0 OHV engine, A4LD Automatic transmission, and 195,000 miles. Under average driving conditions, it operates fine. It shifts up through the gears much like it always has, although the shifts may not be quite as firm as they used to be.
If I'm at cruising speed and step harder on the accelerator, it downshifts, RPMs increase, and it upshifts rather poorly, & then I feel a thump, (maybe the torque converter locking up when it shouldn't be?), and I'm in the higher gear. This seems to happen when it upshifts from 3rd to 4th gears for sure, maybe from 2nd to 3rd, but I'm not sure.
Again, it only seems to happen when I attempt to speed up from cruising speed, not from a stand-still. The transmission fluid and filter have been changed at regular intervals, and the truck has never been abused. The fluid is red in color, doesn't smell burnt, and the level is correct. I don't want to get rid of this truck if I can avoid it. It has been super-reliable and mostly trouble-free for the 16 years I've owned it. What might be wrong with it?
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What are the steps to fix a broken odometer on a 1995 Ranger? I assume it is probably the gears. The truck has 169 k.
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