Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2003 - Clunk When Driving In The Snow
Jan 31, 2010
I've been dealing with this for 2 years now and its going to snap my axle shaft one of these days. I am scared to take it out in a snow storm because the truck will clunk and then release. Its a split second thing but its enough to notice and make me worry a lot. I cant figure out why and ive done the plugs and wires but that didn't solve the problem. It only happens when its snowing or when I drive though a gust of wind that has stired up some snow. I know it must be something electrical because it only happens when there its cold and wet and not all the time. In the rain it does not matter but when it snows i just wont go out at all. The truck is a 2003 4.0 4x4 with a manual. Not a function of the 4 wheel drive it happened in 2wd as well.
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first off my truck is 2001 ford ranger 4x4 with an auto. transmission. when I'm driving around in 2wd, everything is fine...
when my 4wd high is on, and I'm starting from a deadstop my truck makes a weird "clunking" noise in the front end. If I'm stuck in mud or snow, and I give gas it keeps "clunking". where the problem comes from?
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Only clunks under power. Push in the clutch and it's fine. I haven't pulled the diff cover just yet....
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I've been having this problem for about 2 weeks now, and I am trying to figure it out. I know the video is only 5 seconds but at least you can hear the sound, it only happens in first gear, on take off, about 2-5 seconds after the take off, and the sound is coming from the rear axle area. I cant figure out if its diff or brake related.
Ford ranger Rear end noise - YouTube ....
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I have a noise in my rear end, if I grab the bed of the truck, and rock the body back and forth, I hear a clunk, almost sounds like a wheel is loose, but checked them, all good, also checked the U-joints, and pulled the driveshaft to grease the spindle. Thinking it could be in the third member, maybe the Differential pinion shaft, or the lock bolt......
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I just bought a 5speed manual 2004 ford ranger 4x4 and when shifting usually upshiffter 1-2-3 I get a mi8ld clunk when I looked underneath I grabbed and can move the from drive shaft clockwise about 1/4 inch is this normal and if not how do I fix this?
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It's happened to me the last 3 times I've taken my truck out and drove through some deep snow. I have a hard time shifting the transmission from drive to park. The snow must get packed up under the truck near the shift linkages.
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So my new/old 2004 has another issue. Parked at the grocery store tonight on a very slight incline backwards. Put the Ranger in park (automatic shift) and before I could fully engage the parking brake it began to roll back with a clunk, clunk, clunk as if popping out of gear.
Need less to say I moved to another spot that was more level. Just an hour before I parked the same way on a steeper incline and did not get this. Now I need to watch this carefully until resolved. How to remedy this issue.
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2003 ranger xlt 4wd electrical - My radio lights up when driving lights are on but no clock display or anything else. My cigarette lighter and aux power outlet do not work and mym 4wd does not work. when i try to change from 2wd to 4wd no lights come on in the dash. I have checked all fuses and they are good. What to check next?
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Our Ranger, 2002, 4 cyl. 2.3 5 speed is shutting down while driving. This has happened twice very recently. Both times on interstate at highway speed. First it loses power then completely shuts down. After stopping, turning key "off" it restarts and runs fine. It does take a longer time to crank before starting.
It is not throwing any codes and the CE is not coming on. I suspect the fuel pump is shutting down. Seems like fuel pressure loss is reason for loss of power? Then extended cranking to restart is the initial build up? What else could it be? If not the pump itself, is there something that would take away power from the pump then get reset?
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1994 FORD RANGER stalls while driving - differant speeds ...differant miles ...no rhyme or reason to it - cranks right back up ...can even pop clutch and cut it back on. Already replaced Ignition Start Module - Dpes sensor - temp sensor - and scan shows all codes are clear and truck passes. We are clueless to whats causing this. 4 cyl 2.1
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The panel goes off and the fan quits blowing. Sometimes it works, cools great, then just cuts off...
1989 Bronco II 2.9 4x4 auto 164k miles... I have been on TRS, BroncoII Corral, and even FSB searching.
This is the first attempt at reaching out because i have found that here at FTE the folks that chime in know their stuff, or know where i can find out for myself.
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Today my 2001 ford range edge starting running funny. When in park it idles around 3k rpm and then when driving it feels like it wont shift past 2nd because it is around 4k rpm around 50mph and I'm afraid to go to any higher speed for fear of damaging the engine. I'm currently at work so im unable to really get under the hood atm.
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I have a 1985 ranger 2.3l efi and it bogs and dies while while driving, it can sit and idle all day long but when you go to drive it, it works great for 3-4 minutes then out of nowhere starts bogging sometimes I can keep it going a little longer but in the end the truck always dies . I know I'm loosing fuel pressure , I hooked a gauge up to it and drive it down the road when the truck died it showed 10 psi , from here I'm lost . It has a new fuel pump in the tank and I can hear the other one running when I click the key on , Also two new fuel filters .
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Recently, today in my 87 Ranger suddenly the engine dies and all electronics in the cab fail.
I noticed under the hood that the fusible link connected to the battery and an orange and black wire was smoking. Tracing this line i found that it leads to the ignition switch, as well as some other places.
There is another fusible link and the junction between the yellow ignition wire and the orange and black wire from the battery. This fusible link also was failed.
I'm planning on replacing the fusible links tomorrow but in case that does not fix it, where to look next.
The problem only occurs when the key is in the ON position. I'm thinking maybe I could do some tests with a multimeter on the ignition switch but am not sure of the details of what I should test for.
Summary: Fusible Links C, and E burn out when the ignition is in the ON position.
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My 1999 ford ranger, when started, shakes and then while i am driving. my check engine light is on and reads a #3 cylinder misfire. I have taken it somewhere to get it checked out and they can't figure out what is wrong with it. this problem only happens 50% of the time. I don't know what to do. Also just got a tune up.
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My 2004 Ford Ranger has 220,000 miles, runs great, and when I bought it this summer the 4 wheel drive worked great. Starting when the weather got cold when I engage the 4 wheel drive (no lockouts electronic engagement). I will drive and it will kick in and out of 4 wheel drive when it starts to slip or I have to accelerate.
When the 4 wheel drive kicks out I will let off the gas then it will engage again on its own, but will slip out again when on ice or I start to slip. When the 4 wheel drive engages it does NOT make any strange sounds, no clunking or nothing, it engages smoothly, and disengages properly.
What it could be? a connection? Any way to fix or diagnose the problem? I have been told that it probably is not the transfer case, because if it were it would not engage or stay in 4 wheel drive at all.
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Background- 2000 Ranger, 3.0L 2WD 170,000mi. This truck is not my daily driver, i try to drive it once a week.
I've never had this issue before... I drove all over town yesterday; multiple stops, no issue. Today i go to do the same thing and upon accelerating out of the driveway i lose all power for about 3 seconds. I get power back for about 3 seconds then lose it again. This continues for as longs as i'm driving. Also, no CEL. I go back to the house to look things over, can't find anything staring me in the face really.
Truck idles fine and the issue is not present when i run up the RPMs in park. I've been reading some other threads about similar issues and most replies begin with checking the regular maintenance stuff i.e. TB, MAF, IACV, pcv, etc. It seems like a complete loss of fuel or spark...but only when in gear with constant throttle???
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I have just inherited my recently deceased father's 1992 Ranger with the 2.3 liter engine. He was a Ford Mechanic but got to ill to worry about fixing the Ranger. So, let me begin, the engine dies randomly, (at idle or in gear driving doesn't matter what gear or speed), turning key to off and then to on will allow vehicle to restart every time. No "Check Engine" light has ever lit, I do have an "Antilock" light that comes and goes. The engine codes I keep getting are: 10, 218 and 222.
Code 10 is a computer check code,
Code 218 is "Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal/left side, and
Code 222 is "Distributorless Ignition System - Loss of right side ignition diagnostic monitor (IDM) signal.
These codes were from my Innova reader. I have read where other similar problems were fixed with a new Crankshaft Position Sensor, replaced mine, no change. Another symptom I just noticed is my temp gauge stays near the cool end when it should be higher.
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The problem : I bought a 2004 Ranger truck and after two days it started to hiccup, or stall or die while driving, then because the truck is manual, just start up and keep running. It was the strangest thing.
I gave it to a shop, and after checking the electrical, the ignition, the fuel system, the drive train, and ten hours of troubleshooting, they came up without an answer. So they gave me the truck back.
Answer, a few days after taking it back:
I had told the shop that it had been sitting for 6 months, May till January, but when I told a mechanic friend a bit later, he still suggested 2 bottles of gas line antifreeze in the tank, before the next tank fill. I did that, and there was some improvement.
Next, When I replaced the balding tires with new Nokian Winter tires, the tire shop, (Kal Tire), told me that the air cleaner was incredibly dirty, and asked me if I would like them to replace it. I said yes, thinking that it might just do the trick, as no one in the forums I read, had mentioned it.
Success! No hiccup or stalling and it has not died since.
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My problem is wih my 1996 Ford Ranger XLT 6Cyl. 4.0L 2WD Recntly it started shaking violently in the rear as I drive down the road any road. Mainly slow to about 50MPH or slower, it just starts to shake really hard and then it stops then out of the blue it will do it again I thought it might be the back Drums maybe the shoes came apart and were catching but they are fine everything looks fine, could it be the gearbox on the axle? I don't know...
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