Which one is the ect? One is the ect and one is a switch for something?
Just gone done switching that POS plastic thermostat housing thing, both sensors were replaced not sure which one is throwing the code.
I have cleared the code and it keeps coming back.
My 2000 Hyundai Accent Hatchback (manual) is tripping the code P0422 (Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)). If i clear the code it will pop back up after about 40-60 miles of driving. I hooked my OBDII sensor to it and look at the voltage output from the two O2 sensors and the front one oscillates between .2 to .7V and the downstream one does as well switching about at the rate. From my understanding the downstream O2 sensor should stay fairly steady or at least switch much slower than the upstream one. I get pretty good gas mileage, typ. ~30mpg. Luckily my state does not have emission testing. Is it actually the catalytic converter, the downstream O2 sensor or something else?
View 10 Replies2004 Audi A6 2.7 T quattro ... Check engine light comes on and three mechanics all say i need new torque converter even tho i have no symptoms as yet. Will I get symptoms eventually, or could this be an electrical issue. When they turn off the warning light, it takes a day or so to come back on. There has been no reduction of mileage, no gear slipping, no problem accelerating.
View 2 Replies2000, 2.5L standard transmission. IAC replaced about 2 years ago, DPFE sensor and vacuum hoses replaced early last summer. Truck has been running just fine until I washed it last night. Went to work, and when coming to a stop and pressing in the clutch, engine starts to race without coming back to idle. Had to turn the truck off in order to get the engine from racing. Same thing on the way home. What else can/should I be looking at? I did not open the hood to wash the engine off, so it can't be water from the wash.
View 7 RepliesMy 96 4x2 2.3ltr is throwing this code (P1443). I clear it and it comes back a few cycles later. I will fix it next but won't be able to get to it for a couple weeks. What if any affect does this code have on fuel mileage and or engine performance/power?
View 3 RepliesWhere to start looking to resolve this code. It is not an intermittent code. It returns after about 3 to 4 key turns. Truck idles a little rough but runs fine. I have looked up the code and causes but wondering how to deal with this directly and fixed it. I'm wanting to sell my truck for something bigger and would like to solve the issue before hand. 2003 Ford Ranger Edge...
View 4 RepliesGot a code of p0708 on 2003 ranger flex-fuel 3.0.. Which is I believe is Transmission Range (TR) sensor. Not sure where to find that on truck...
View 1 RepliesI have had a small antifreeze drip coming from up high around what I have been thinking was the water pump gasket. I have not pin pointed it exactly though. for the last 3 days i have been getting code po174 and now added po171 to that list. Also have something going on with my fuel fill vent or something as for a while now i have had to slowly squeeze in fuel to keep the pump from auto shut off on me like its full already. I have tried cleaning out that vent tube by spraying in carb cleaner even blowing on it but it seems to be a check valve, not able to blow in. i am thinking tonight that antifreeze leak may be related to those codes too. any thoughts? its on my 2003 ranger 3.0 flex fuel.
View 9 RepliesA buddy of mine has a 2003 Ford Ranger Edge V6 3.0L, he got the code P1450 the other day and asked me to look at it. Got all the info on what it could be but where ex actually is the EVAP canister and CV solenoid located? And what is the problem?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 F150 XLT Supercab,4.2lt, automatic, 2WD.
I was able to start it about a month or so ago but it was really hard to start. I had to use starting fluid to get it started, and it was still tough to get it to start, but once started and warmed up it ran fine.
Now I tried to start it again and it kicks over and wont start. I tried the same with the starting fluid and it almost starts and dies. I think I used a little too much starting fluid because after a while of trying and spraying starting fluid, I got a hard backfire that sounded like a shotgun that was strong enough to pop off the MAF Sensor and throw it about 10 feet. I nearly crapped my pants! It looks clean and undamaged but I hope I didn't damage the MAF Sensor when if hit the ground.
The truck sounds like its starving for fuel, so I'm not sure if the fuel pump relay is going or has gone bad, or if its the fuel pump. How to check these items without making it a huge project to diagnose?
Once I can get it to start easily, I have a couple of questions about the trouble code that keeps coming back P0174. That was the original problem with it before the starting problem.The diagnostic says that it is lean in bank 2 but a mechanic friend of mine said something about a vacuum leak.
Ok, my question is, when gas pedal is pressed half or more down-ward, a squeal sounding is coming from engine compartment. 2003 ranger v-6 3.0 flex....
View 1 RepliesWhen I get over 45MPH, I notice a whop, whop sound. It speeds up as my speed increases. I have had the tires check and rebalanced, but that wasn't it. I have tried just revving the engine when in neutral, but I don't hear the noise. Could it be u-joints, or is there something else?
View 9 Replies1999 ford ranger 2X4 manual trans. My back up lights work sometimes and sometimes not.
View 1 Repliesi have a 02 ranger 4by4 with 4.0.every time i try to fuel the pu it spits gas back out the fill tube and i have to fill it very slow to get fuel in it.i just replaced the filler neck about 6 mos ago due to having a hole in the the hose by the local ford dealer,
View 6 RepliesGot a 1986 Ranger 2.3 EFI 5 speed that I have owned since it was almost new and will never let it go. 290,000 mls and still running strong "except". Noticed the last couple of months that when I start it cold it fires right off. If I start it hot it always takes 3 tries and always goes on the third try except....on occasion it will not start at all. It is random and after I let it cool a bit (about 30 min) it will start. Over the years I have replace many of the fuel system components (fuel tank pump, high press. pump, inline filter and canister filter, fuel press regulator) but wondering what else might be the problem.
I put a pressure tester on it the other day and when I selected the key to start the pump would spool up to build pressure and shut off. The press gauge would register that but the pressure would immediately go back to zero. After start up it would hold a constant 30psi at all rpm,s. Shut the engine off and pressure drops right down to zero. Shouldn't the system hold pressure for at least a while after shut down? Could this be the problem with my sluggish starts? What would be the normal fuel pressure? Can't seem to find it in my Haynes manual. Once running it runs great.
I was driving my 85 2.3 liter down the road and it died all of a sudden like and wont start back up. I took out a plug to check for spark and had someone turn it over and I touched it to the big metal part the grill connects to at the top but I got nothing. It IS getting gas. The spark plug was white as if it was really hot and rough-looking for its relative newness. I bought a new distributor cap because it was corroded, but it didnt work. They tested the ignition module at the store and its good, so I am thinking distributor?? Also, could compression issues keep it from sparking? I am a little worried it got over-heated somehow, but don't know....
View 9 RepliesBackground - I just got done changing a few things... Exhaust Manifold/gasket, battery cables, valve cover gasket, oil cooler gasket and hoses, power steering pump and hoses, and ball joints. Most of this has nothing to do with the issue that came up as I am driving it back to return it to her.
While out on the freeway, I initially notice subtle power losses and surges. These quickly escalate into almost total power loss with back firing, sputtering and much more noticeable surges in power. The check engine light was turning off then on a few times before pretty much deciding to stay on.
So I nurse it back home on back roads due to its inability to maintain freeway speeds. I proceed to check everything I touched paying special attention to the exhaust manifold and surrounding area. The new manifold came from the j/y and was barely used so I had initially just stuck with the O2 sensor that came with it; I changed this to the one the vehicle had previously been employing as it was not exhibiting these symptoms until after the job was done. I also double checked all the hoses, intake tube, wires and connectors; everything is connected.
From here, I research the method of pulling codes on OBD-1 vehicles by making the check engine light flash. It flashed a 111 and a 172 at the same time; the information I could find said the 111 means everything is normal, and the 172 suggested O2 or MAF. I am reasonably sure the O2 is not the problem so I focused on the MAF. Disconnecting it while running seemed to improve the way it idled so via the process of deduction, which also included the consideration of typical symptoms of MAF sensor failure, I proceeded to replacing the MAF sensor which amounted to little improvement.
At this moment in time the check engine light has not returned but it is clearly not in a drive-able state of being. It actually seems to have ever so slightly improved though.
Additionally, the symptoms only exist when the engine is hot and has been driven; it drives normally for 5-10 minutes until it gets to operating temperature then it starts to crap out. After changing the MAF sensor, I let it idle for 20 minutes and it was fine until about 2 minutes into the test drive.
Speculation - I am thinking spark plugs could also be a culprit as its has been forever since a tune-up but the sudden onset of this condition make me doubt this a little; it also has 8 plugs so even if one or two crapped out it should still run better than this I would think.
I have a 2007 Ranger XLT 2 Door Extracab and have a question about the seats in this vehicle. I'm a 6' 1" guy and have long legs. I've lamented how little travel the seats (esp the drivers seat) has. Since I have long legs I have the seat as far back as it apparently goes. On long trips, this becomes exceedingly uncomfortable. To top it off, I had a knee injury recently and the range of motion of my knees are less than normal, making it impossible to drive the truck with the limited ability to move the seat further back.. My question is: Is there a way to get the seat to go further back, without extensive engineering work? I've noticed this seems to be a Ford thing as my wife's 2012 Escape has the same problem.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 F150 5.4 and I recently got a p0175 code. I've replaced the M.A.F. sensor, fuel injectors, fuel filter, new plugs, coils and checked the vac lines but I'm still getting a p0175 code. Ive reset my P.C.M. and the code stopped for 2 weeks but returned later. The truck runs fine when I erase the code but when it returns it hesitates on take off and has a slight shake like a misfire and it makes a bubbly popping sound from the exhaust. Im at a loss of what to do next! Could this be a code stuck in the P.C.M.? My mechanic thinks it may be the cam phasers!
View 5 Repliesi just rebuilt the motor in my 2002 ford ranger 3.0 and it wont start it cranks over but back fires and bucks alot. took the plugs out and it gets spark and fuel. when it sparks it sparks like multiple times.
View 3 RepliesI am working on a 96 Mazda b2300 auto 2wd for a friend. His son was driving it when a loud noise, it died and wouldn't start back up. He had it towed to my house, I started to tear into to it and found it slipped the timing belt. So a rebuilt head, gaskets, timing belt, fuel injectors, water pump, thermostat, plugs, and fluids; tried to start it and nothing. Started troubleshooting and found the primary coil pack was out of spec, replaced and still nothing.
Changed out the CKPS still nothing? I have spark, I have fuel, I'm going to check compression tomorrow but the way the cylinders and pistons looked I don't think that is the issue but I going to check anyway, rechecked the timing marks they all lined up. Checked the fuel inertia switch not tripped. Could the PCM, or ICM cause a no start, and still be able to get spark and fuel?