Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2003 - Battery Light On - Volt Gauge Above L?
Sep 6, 2014
my 03 ranger 4.0l was working properly and all of a sudden I am having an issue. The battery light is on, and the volt gauge is just above L. With my multi-meter I am showing 14 volts on the output stud on the alternator, and 13.5 volts at the battery while idling. When I turn the lights/fan on I show minimal draw at the battery. Not sure if these are good checks but I figured a good place to start. Where/what should I begin checking?
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I was driving around town and I kept noticing my aftermarket radio would shut down and turn back on when I put my foot to the floor, then I noticed that my voltage gauge would shoot to the H when I hit around 3000 rpm and all the dash light's and head lights get brighter but once I let off the throttle it goes right back down. I've been taking it easy lately and now around 4000 rpm it will shoot up now. But I just replaced the voltage regulator I checked the battery and cables they don't seem to be damaged and I already replaced the belt. What could cause this?
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I have a 96' ranger that has been missing quite regularly. The vehicle has over 200,000 miles on it, but has been taken care of regularly by me since 75,000.
Problem: When I start the vehicle, the engine takes a little bit to find the idle. It spits and fumbles around some until it finds a somewhat rough idle. Often, when I first start driving in the morning, the vehicle really jumps around due to misfiring. Even after running smoothly for awhile, the vehicle with sporadically misfire with no rhyme or reason. This is particularly true when climbing a grade. When sitting at a red light and idleing in gear, you can definitely feel the truck shaking from side to side. Also, when idling in gear, the battery gauge on the dash fluctuates, but when the vehicle is in park the battery gauge doesn't fluctuate...it just idles a little rough.
I had the Ranger to a garage and had them check the battery and alternator connections and ground to try and figure out what is making the battery gauge fluctuate...alternator and battery checked out...no diagnosis for fluctuation.
I replaced all plugs and wires and also checked the coil pack. One of the coils (#6) had some build-up in the top. I cleaned it out and replaced all the plug wires and everything snapped in place and fit fine.
The garage did tell me that an error code came up with the EGR valve and or sensor. They didn't seem to concerned about it. Do the EGR valve could be the cause of all the stuttering and misfiring going on with the ranger? I really don't know where else to look. Maybe replace the coil pack?
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I have 2005 Ranger 4.OL just recently when I accelerate the battery light comes on. No light when driving normal. Stopped by O'reillys had them check the battery, alternator, starter. They said battery bad. So I dropped 130.00 on new battery. Light still comes on when accelerate.
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I have a 97 Ranger with 4.0 V6 with about 120,000 miles. The battery light came on today so I took it to Advance Auto to check the battery and Alternator. They said both were good. I checked the fuses and relays and nothing was blown or out of place. Could it be a bad ground?
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Im the second owner of a 2008 Toyota Prius (Package II) with 23k miles.
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The battery light in my well used 1997 Ranger came on a few weeks ago. Only use the truck on the weekends. Battery reads 12v. Alternator putting out 14v. Replaced terminal clamps as they were in bad shape. Light is still on.
Weak battery possibly? Does it need to read higher than 12v for the light to be off, I wonder?
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2000 Ranger 2.5L. Recently driving up and down road to work about a half hour in to drive the battery light will flicker especially if under a load (AC on, lights on)etc... Assuming it is the alternator/voltage regulator getting ready to FAIL. Plan on replacing alternator this weekend? What to do or check something other than replace the alternator?
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So our '06 Prius has been very, very reliable, and we have a bit over 105K miles on it now. But we have a problem that the dealer hasn't been able to confirm, much less fix.
Probably three months ago now I began to notice that, from time to time, when I started the Prius, the master caution light (red triangle) would come on for 2-3 seconds. At no point did it stay on, and at no point did the Prius fail to start. So, it was an intermittent caution light of brief duration.
Then we had a bad storm coming (Sandy) and although it wasn't nearly as bad here (N. VA) as it could have been, I put the Prius in the garage, and it sat there for three days. When I went out to start it, the 12 volt battery was dead.
Fortunately I always back into the garage, and so jump starting the Prius - although it was my first time doing so - was no problem, and I got it to the dealer that morning. They tested the battery, and it was fine. They checked the codes, and all was well. It was as if the battery had never died. AND we stopped seeing the master caution light ... until two days ago, when my wife said that she saw the light a couple of times when she was out running errands.
Is it possible to have a problem with the 12 volt battery and/or electrical system that doesn't show up in the codes? And am I wrong to lose confidence in this very, very reliable car??
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Over the past weekend i noticed all the electronics having a slight "flicker", so I figured my alternator was on its way out. After replacing the alt with a reman, I still had the issue. Then, replaced it with a new new one and the issue still persists. I will be getting a meter to test later when my buddy gets off work. The gauge on the dash is running high and battery light is flickering. Is there something I am missing? I ran another ground to frame also.
2001 SCAB 5.4 144,000mi 4x4 ....
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My check engine light has come on on my 2003 Ranger 2.3L 4V equipped Ranger. I have a Stinger code reader which shows a trouble code P2004. I havn't been able to find out what this code means.
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Gas gauge went from about 1/4 to full in about 3 seconds and hasn't moved since. 2000 B3000 Mazda 3.0 V-6 auto. I've checked all the instrument cluster fuses (11,26,33). I know of the method of disconnecting the connector at the gas tank to see if its the sending unit or the gauge but I can't see or feel in there good enough to do that. Would either one go bad that quickly? Doesn't seem likely to me.
I've read about a "slosh sensor" in a post on this forum - does my truck even have that? I've had an intermittent wiper problem a couple of times but the multifunction switch wouldn't be involved would it? I'm just trying to see if there might be a simple fix before I add it to my repair list when I take it to have the ball joints replaced.
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I have a 94 Ford Ranger, 2WD, 5-Speed, with 2.3 engine. My temp gauge hardly moves at all... It actually appears as if it doesn't move it you don't pay close attention and were to just glance at it. I'm thinking it is most likely the temp sensor that is on the engine block as I understand there is also one that is in the line that controls the fans for the radiator. Am I approaching this in the right direction or is there something else I might need to do?
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I have a 2011 xlt extended cab with a 2.3l 4 cylinder. The truck is great... I put 120,000 miles on it in under a year.
But about a month ago the temperature gauge started malfunctioning. for what ever reason -- the truck is NOT over heating-- the gauge would increase past the "H" and then the temperature light would come on. Because the truck thinks it's overheating -- the engine goes into a "safe mode" and runs with no power. When i shut the motor off and turn it back on temperature gauge resets and the truck will run fine.
Then in another 50 or 100 miles it will do it again. Why is it doing this? I took it to the dealer here in Columbus, Ohio and the mechanic installed a new thermostat and a new "control modulator" (and a part -- not really sure what it is called) anyway, the truck is doing the same thing and the mechanic still does not know
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I just picked up a 1984 ford ranger long box 2 wheel drive w/ 2.0 l and carburetor for our daughter whom is just 15. it has a whopping 19,000 actual on it! It was my wife's grandma's farm truck - ordered it new from dear born. Any way, fuel gauge is pegged at empty and they had a new float assy put in about 5 years ago, but it is dead now, it doesn't appear that this sender is avail any longer. What part might fit in there and or what do i have to do to maintain the original gauge in the cluster but have a working sender to talk to it? is there another unit that goes in the tank that i can modify the signal out to read right with the built in gauge? There can't be too many different ones out there is there?
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I have a 97 Splash with the 3.0, oil pressure goes up to about the middle of the gauge after startup, however, it stays there whatever I do, warm/cold, idle/5500 rpm. Is it supposed to be like that?
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My oil pressure gauge does not work. I was told that it's most likely the sensor. Where would I find this to change it out?
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I have a 2001 ford ranger xlt 2.3L and the temperature gauge has been staying a cold. And my heat doesnt heat well. I'm guessing I need to replace the thermostat. Before I do that could it be anything else?
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I have a 2002 Ranger V6 3000 with 100K miles. Can I add a higher viscosity oil since my pressure gauge is acting up. I changed the sending switch twice but the gauge still acts up occasionally. I was thinking of adding 10/ 30 on my next oil change. I do live in the area where the air temp is quite high in the summer. The truck runs well except for the oil gauge, in my opinion, is giving false readings.
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I have a 2001 Ranger 4.0, 4x4 that just hit 100k and the oil pressure gauge doesn't show a reading for about 1 minute after startup. Also, the check gauge light comes on. What do I replace to fix this and is it something I can do myself? I am mildly handy. Would you worry about fixing it or just let it go because it's obviously getting oil pressure.
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My 94 Ranger 3.0L 5speed 2wd temp gauge is staying on the cold side but the heater is working good and I used a laser pointing thermometer at the thermostat housing and got 180* after running for a while and I also noticed that the fuel economy had gone down along with the power. I was getting 340 miles to a tank but now I'm getting 280 per tank.
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