i just rebuilt the motor in my 2002 ford ranger 3.0 and it wont start it cranks over but back fires and bucks alot. took the plugs out and it gets spark and fuel. when it sparks it sparks like multiple times.
View 3 RepliesSo it often just cranks for 15 seconds before it fires. I put the fuel pressure guage on it and you turn the key on but don't engage the starter it goes to 30 psi then back to 0 in a 2 second time frame. It then stays at zero. when you engage the starter pressure slowly goes up and it starts running while running its a consistent 60 psi.
I presume its the fuel regulator but why does it not go up to 60 psi and why does it just stop with the KOEO? Is it reasonable to just replace the regulator? or should I be replacing the fuel pump to at the same time? I will be doing this from under the truck since there is a lot of hard mounted equipment in the bed.
I have heard from a few people that it might be the computer that is messed up. Just replaced cap and rotor, spark plugs, wires, fuel filters. Pump turns on. Cranks and cranks but won't start. Took the intake cover off and tried starting it, all it did was back fire. Checked the firing order and everything is right. So im left with guessing at the computer and ignition??
View 5 RepliesOk, went out last night to go over to a buddies place to watch some football. Tried to start my truck but all that happened is that it would turn over, but not start. Had plenty of juice in the battery, and 1/2 tank of gas. It acted like it wanted to start, but nothing doing - just keeps cranking and cranking. Its even more frustrating because I was driving it around most of the day before this happened.
Here's the dillema: Its been doing this for the past two months now on and off. Once I fix something, it runs for about a month, and then it starts doing this again, without any warning signs (i.e. multiple cranks before a start, stalling, hesitation on accel., etc.). At this point I'm clueless. I've replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, and air filter, but the problem has resurfaced again.
An interesting thing to note is that the only ways I'm able to get it started when it starts doing this is to remove the electrical connection from the intertia switch, and crank the engine a few times to relieve the fuel system pressure. After reconnecting the inertia switch, the truck starts instantly.
So whats the deal? Why this would work, and why suddenly the thing would not start after weeks and weeks of driving flawlessly? Is it possible that my system is either too pressurized or losing pressure somehow, and that is how it be able to start? A buddy suggested it might be injectors, but I'm not so sure, because there is no hesitation on accel or performance loss, or even a rough idle.
My 1999 Ranger that I bought used has been serving me well. However, two days ago I went to visit a friend and when I tried to start the truck to go home, the engine cranked but would not fire. I assumed that perhaps I had flooded the engine, so I walked home. I went back an hour later and the truck started up immediately. Then, yesterday, the truck would not fire at all. I towed it to AutoZone to check for error codes, but none were found. I put my inductive timing light on a plug wire and found that there was no spark.
In one instance of cranking, the timing light blinked and the engine tried to fire, but then nothing. The AutoZone man suggested changing the crankshaft and camshaft sensors. I haven't done that yet, but that is my next plan. Can the Ford dealer find error codes that tell what is preventing an engine from starting that AutoZone can't see? For sure there is no spark, but maybe there is no fuel either since I don't smell gas after much cranking. Could it be the inertia switch cutting off both fuel and spark?
My kid is using my 94 Ranger with 215,000 miles. It quit while he was on his way to work. Engine cranks but won't start.
Fuel pressure at rail was 12 psi (Key on eng. off). I replaced fuel pump. Pressure at rail up to 20 psi. Still cranks, no start.
I replaced fuel filter. Pressure at rail up to 30 psi. Still cranks, no start.
Replaced distributor cap/rotor and plugs. I have spark at plugs.
Chiltons from 1994 doesn't list a rail fuel pressure. I see new fuel pressure regulators are set at 41 psi. I pulled mine and hooked air to it. It (FPR) cracks at 37 psi. I have lots of flow returning to tank, so I assume the fuel system is working correctly. I've never replaced the timing chain/sprockets. Distributor rotor spins during engine cranking. When I rotate the crank pulley to 0 Top Dead Center the rotor is pointing to #1 on the distributor, so I don't think the timing chain has skipped a tooth on the sprocket??????
2004 3.0L Ranger Edge, 88,000 miles on it, I am the original owner. It won't start. It cranks strongly. Usually when this happens, I have to reset the fuel pump inertia switch. This time, resetting the switch does not work. I disconnected the switch and jumped the two wires going to it, but still no start. The switch seems to work ok, in that I can reset it (a ball, spring, and magnet mechanism, I think), then shake it and the ball will come loose.
The fuel pump 20A fuse in the engine compartment is good. The fuel pump relay in the engine compartment is good (I switched it out with an identical relay that runs the fog lights without problem). I am getting spark. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but pressing in the Schraeder valve on the fuel rail produces gas.
Usually, when the inertia switch is tripped I can get the engine to briefly start by using starter fluid in the air intake. But not this time. I do not hear the fuel pump kicking in when I turn the ignition key to the "On" position, and that would lead me to think that the pump is bad. Except, I don't get a brief start using starter fluid. The fuel filter has never been changed, but again, since I get no start with starter fluid, I don't see how that could be the problem. OBDII scan shows no codes.
working on a 84 ranger it did run fine for 3 wks then while driving there was a thump and it stopped and wouldn't start. Now working on it has spark cranks but won't start. while trying to start when I let off the key it tries to catch but only at that time not when the key is turn to start normal. we poured fuel into the carb and it still didn't start. Leaning toward compression maybe?
View 4 RepliesI have a 95 Ranger that when warmed up completely will buck when I let off of the gas. It is a 5 speed and this problem really only happens in 3rd gear and also have noticed it doesn't happen in 4WD. When the engine is cold and I am driving and let off the gas, the truck coasts smooth as silk and as it warms up, there becomes a louder thump when the gas is let off.
It will not do it all the time and it really only happens in third gear at low RPM's coming to a stop. I can give it gas and it picks right back up normally, so I doubt it is a misfire. Also since the truck is a 95 I do not have any CEL indicators, nor is there even a CEL light built into the dash in the truck. It isn't a huge issue because I am used to it and can drive it accordingly without having a problem.
2007 Ranger 4.0.... Initial start of the day it cranks a bit longer than it should. After warm, it starts fine.
View 1 RepliesRemoving fuel injectors-coolant contamination.. How is this done? I need to see if they are any good-or clean/replace them-after I accidentally left the clip off the hose running out of the thermostat housing when I drained my coolant last week and the first time I drove, coolant leaked onto the top of the engine/manifold depressions, getting onto and into the fuel injectors.
I tried to clean it up as much as possible the first time(finally got it going) but still a few days later the truck at times cranks but does not start-hot or cold. I assume my idiocy is the cause or maybe it is just coincidence of something else? From what I read from my symptoms it could also be the fuel pump relay, pressure regulator, coolant temp sensor, crank sensor.. among other things. My fuel pump is 1.5 years old, so hopefully that isnt it. Have the injectors possibly been contaminated to where I should just replace them?
My mother's 2002 Camry with about 60K on it has been starting hard lately. No check engine light has come on. I did a full tune up hoping the problem would be solved but no luck. The car cranks a lot before it fires. First thing in the morning it cranks more than it should, starts, and then she gets a little smoke out of it. The rest of the day it cranks a lot before firing. I'm assuming that it is a fuel system issue because if she turns the key to the run position and waits a few seconds, the car starts up normally. Sounds to me like the fuel is draining back. What controls the fuel from draining back to the tank in a 2002 model with a 4cyl, the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, or something else?
View 5 RepliesMade a trip to the hardware store yesterday. When I came out, the truck would crank just fine, but wouldn't start (98 4.0L 4x4). Tried adding gas, no luck. I had actually called a wrecker, but it eventually started after sitting for about an hour. All I did differently was hit the gas pedal a couple of times. Thinking it may be a low fuel pressure problem, I took it to autozone this morning (started it about 4 times now with no problems). Checked the fuel pressure, and it sat at a solid 65 lbs at idle. I tried holding the throttle open and it stayed at the same pressure. I forgot to try with the vacuum off.
First off, I've seen some people say 60 lbs is right, but more say it should be at about 45lbs. 45 seems right since the fuel return is on the block, not on the pump. I'm guessing the fuel damper went out, but is there any good way to check it? Also, since the damper is vacuum controlled, would a bad vacuum cause this problem? Third, could high fuel pressure cause it to not start? That's the one I'm most worried about what was wrong there.
i have a 02 ranger 4by4 with 4.0.every time i try to fuel the pu it spits gas back out the fill tube and i have to fill it very slow to get fuel in it.i just replaced the filler neck about 6 mos ago due to having a hole in the the hose by the local ford dealer,
View 6 RepliesAlright I thought changing a fuel filter was fool proof but I changed the fuel filter in my 2001 escape v6. awd and now for some reason it wont start right up like it used too before the filter change. It cranks for a few seconds then fires up and runs perfectly fine it sits for a few hours same issue where as before the filter change it fired up fine every time, what did I do wrong. 2001 ford escape...
View 1 RepliesMy '90 Ranger is experiencing a pretty bad misfire after doing a tune-up. I changed the plugs (gapped to .045), wires, distibutor cap, rotor button, air filter, fuel filter, and cleaned the IAC. It had a barely noticeable miss before the tune up, that's why I did it. Now, it's pretty horrible.
At idle, it's definitely noticeable, and at cruising speeds (RPM's below 3K) it bucks and surges. The weird part about it is WOT runs are as smooth and (somewhat) powerful as ever! At idle in neutral it will revv up just fine without any hesitation as well.
First thing I did was check the firing order, again and again. Made sure all my wires were properly seated on the plugs and on the distributor prongs. Pulled the plugs back out, they were all clean and properly gapped. I pulled the wires off one by one to try to isolate the misfire, but every plug wire I removed made around the same impact on the motor.
Next I ran codes. KOEO, I got code 95 - fuel pump secondary circuit failure. Don't know what to do about this. Fuel pumps comes on at the turn of the key, relay clicks... KOER, I got 11 (pass code), so nothing there.
Then I hooked a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel rail, and at idle pressure was a steady 35 PSI. I also removed the vac. line to the FPR while running to see if gas came out. I checked for vac. leaks as well.
Now not sure what to check now. I've checked everything I know to check, but nothing works....
94 Saab will not start in the mornings , it cranks but wont fire , runs fine later in day with no problems at all . Than next morning a repeat performance of not starting.
View 10 RepliesI was driving my 85 2.3 liter down the road and it died all of a sudden like and wont start back up. I took out a plug to check for spark and had someone turn it over and I touched it to the big metal part the grill connects to at the top but I got nothing. It IS getting gas. The spark plug was white as if it was really hot and rough-looking for its relative newness. I bought a new distributor cap because it was corroded, but it didnt work. They tested the ignition module at the store and its good, so I am thinking distributor?? Also, could compression issues keep it from sparking? I am a little worried it got over-heated somehow, but don't know....
View 9 RepliesMy 2006 Azara has had a no start problem since about a year after we bough it new. The condition is intermittent and is not dependent on outside temperature, humidity or other conditions, It happens when the engine is cold or hot. Sometimes the problem goes away for a week or so then it comes back. It happens with either key.
The engine cranks over but does not start. Usually resolve it by sitting for 10 - 15 seconds then trying again. Sometimes have to do this two or three times before it fires. All other electrical items work ok and the battery has no problem powering accessories. I've had it into the dealer however because it is difficult to replicate, they have a hard time repairing the problem. The first time they neutralized the immobilizer and re-programmed it. The second time, I got a check engine light and they replaced the immobilizer. But the problem continues.
I am working on a 96 Mazda b2300 auto 2wd for a friend. His son was driving it when a loud noise, it died and wouldn't start back up. He had it towed to my house, I started to tear into to it and found it slipped the timing belt. So a rebuilt head, gaskets, timing belt, fuel injectors, water pump, thermostat, plugs, and fluids; tried to start it and nothing. Started troubleshooting and found the primary coil pack was out of spec, replaced and still nothing.
Changed out the CKPS still nothing? I have spark, I have fuel, I'm going to check compression tomorrow but the way the cylinders and pistons looked I don't think that is the issue but I going to check anyway, rechecked the timing marks they all lined up. Checked the fuel inertia switch not tripped. Could the PCM, or ICM cause a no start, and still be able to get spark and fuel?
I have a 02 ranger..3.0 standard trans 4x4.... Started running crappy, cleared up and when shut off, now wont start... Good spark and good gas pressure... Seems to want to try, but just doesn't go. No codes or pending codes.
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