Got a 2002 Ranger XLT v6 auto w/80k on the clock. When I exit the truck and close the door with the key in the ignition the chime dings for about 10 seconds before stopping. Is there a way to shorten this? ( Other than removing the key.)
View 2 RepliesHaving problems with their door locks attempting to activate when turning the ignition key? If so, how can I correct it or make repairs.
View 3 RepliesI tried moving a latch in the (driver) door to stop the chime from chiming when the driver door is open and the ignition is in the accessory position, but no luck. Looking for a solution for temporarily disabling the chime through some mechanical means? (2010 Ranger)
View 10 RepliesTried all the steps as out-line on 100's of threads. When I open and close the door I do not hear the chime or buzz to tell me that that step is done and of course no chime at the 7-second mark nor at the 15 second mark.
View 3 RepliesI have noticed sometimes when I turn my car off it will chime until I exit the vehicle and close the door and then sometimes it doesn't do this it at all. What's the catch?
View 14 RepliesHow do you get the door chime to go away when the key is still in the ignition?
Also, how do stop the driver seat from moving every time the key is removed?
1994 F150 4X 201,000mi ... Replaced clockspring, now have chime alert with door open and key NOT in ignition. Chime shuts off when the door is closed.
View 7 RepliesJust started having issues with my door chimes this morning.
Hopped in, started up, and now the door chime will not go until I take the key out of ignition. All doors are shut, seatbelt fastened. No lights on dash, no open doors.
I'm looking for a way to eliminate the door chime when the keys are in the ignition and the door is open. I know there is a way to disable it but I don't want to permanently disable...just sometimes.
A friend found a wiring diagram and installed a toggle switch in the drivers kick panel that basically cuts the power to the chime. His F-150 was a different year than mine and I don't know if the F-150's and F-250 use the same color wiring.
I want to do the same thing but need to know which wire that operates the chime. Which wire or have a wiring diagram for a 2006 F-250.
Over the weekend I installed a LOC and amplifier w/sub to OEM stereo in 2013 Camry SE. System has touchscreen and navigation. Prior to installing I disconnected the battery so I wouldn't have any surprises. Well, I got one anyway. After everything was reassembled, the car now chimes when the driver side door is opened (haven't checked passenger door) even when the key is out of the ignition. This happens even after remotely unlocking the doors. It looks like there is an option to remove door chime when opening the door. I know this doesn't apply to when leaving keys in car.
View 1 RepliesI noticed the passenger side on/off switch for the airbag doesn't illuminate anymore on my 98 Ranger. Whether I turn the key on the switch to on or off it doesn't illuminate either way. The airbag light on the dash flashes showing, counting a code 27 and then it stays on. I also noticed the seat belts on symbol doesn't illuminate and in the owner's manual it says it should illuminate and chime. I remember it use to illuminate but I don't remember a chime.
Someone with a 98 that has a seat belt reminder light that illuminates and chimes until you fasten the seat belt? I don't know if that and the airbag code is related. But I want to fix both? I guess the simplest one to tackle first would be the seat belt light/chime. I don't see a fuse for it. I guess I need to know first is it really suppose to chime.
I have a 2005 ranger SOHC 4.0 new rebuilt engine It starts then dies after a few seconds then doesn't start at all unless it sets for a few hours or over night and will do same thing. It has 60 psi on fuel rail, good spark I'm starting to think my PCM is causing all this?
View 14 RepliesSO ive been after this problem for a while now. When my truck has been sitting for 2 days or its a semi cold morning (35 degrees) the truck has a problem not starting. Ive changed the fuel pump, the starter (my starter was going bad anyways and I thought it could also solve the problem I was having), and the battery was just tested. If I leave my key on Acc for like 10 seconds then try to start, it starts right up or if I just re-start right after the first. Now I am leaning towards this being a fuel pressure problem but I am not sure where to start with that... My mechanic also said that it could be the wire that connect to the battery terminal because they can get corroded.
View 4 RepliesMy engine has 2 ignition coils, and b went bad, but which one is b. ?
View 9 Replieswhat i have is the driver's side door on my 1999 ranger is hard to open, the door seal sticks to the door and makes it hard to open, i am afraid of breaking the door handle off, is there any thing to clean seal with to make it not stick? the seal is not sticky to touch neither is the door but when out in the sun for a while they stick together, mechanic told me to spray with wd40 that didn't
View 2 RepliesI've got a problem with my AC Compressor, with the AC on the compressor engages then disengages about every 5 seconds. Now I looked into it and some people said you can remove a washer to remove a gap. Do you think I should change the whole unit? Looked online and I can get one for $100. If I do work on the AC compressor to try and fix it or remove the whole unit do I need to drain any refrigerant etc etc. I have a hayness repair booklet and they said that to remove the ac compressor you need to get it drained by professionals. Although on the compressor I only see a electrical plug and no hoses.
View 14 RepliesThe truck started acting up while driving. It would shut off (no miss or anything), but would start again. Now it is sitting in the driveway and wont run more than 3 seconds. The fuel pump has been changed and did not work. The fuel pump relay is new and did not work. I read that the fuel pump goes to another circuit after start up. Could it be running to start and then shutting off? Inertia switch is not tripped. Where to look next. 1992 Ranger 6 cylinder ....
View 10 RepliesMy ignition key is stuck / locked in the off position. The first time this happened I jiggled the key while moving the wheel back and forth and it turned. The next time in the truck nothing worked. I let it roll back a bit then tried, pushed the clutch in and put it in neutral, etc it did not move. (Just had the clutch and clutch hydraulics replaced.) The wheel is locked. The key removes from the cylinder.
I know it is easy to replace the Ignition Lock Cylinder when you can turn the key in the run position. How to remove it when locked in off?
I have a 94 ranger with the 2.3l engine there is no spark at the ignition module (the front one both on the drivers side) that controls the plugs on the drivers side of the engine. I swapped with the module for the exhaust side but the problem stays at the same two plus and doesn't move with the module .. What can be the source of this problem? ECU?
View 6 RepliesI recently replaced the plugs & wires on my '97 3.0L XLT automatic, and now I'm hearing some pre-ignition (spark knock). Only happens under light load, as in climbing a slight grade on the highway. No CEL, no codes on my code reader. Was not happening before I did the work.
The plugs & wires I removed were the factory originals (AWSF32P & PG, 3 of each), truck only has ~85,000KM (~50,000 Miles) on it. Well maintained, & only used occasionally. The only mod from stock are the wheels & tires, I'm running 215/70 R15 instead of the stock 225/70 R14, the difference in the tire circumference is minimal.
The gap on the old plugs was just over .050", no evidence of any fouling or other problems. The new plugs are Autolite XP104 Iridium, which is what the Autolite catalog calls for. Plug gap was checked & set to .044", midway in the range called for by Ford (.042-.046).
I realize that the narrower gap on the new plugs will cause a slight advance in timing, and I have done a computer reset/relearn as per Paw Paw's instructions. I'm stumped.
I have a 1997 Ranger,4.0,4WD,auto,extended cab. It's always been a great truck. wouldn't start yesterday . I thought the battery was dead , put it on charger and it started right up today. It ran for about ten seconds, started rattling like crazy , stalled and now it won't turn over. Has 150,000 miles on it. Just had oil changed, No ticking or anything else. Drove it every day, just came back from 1000 mile trip.
View 12 Replies