Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2002 XLT 4.0L V6 - Oil Leak From The Rear Area Of Engine?
Jan 19, 2016
2002 Ranger XLT, Super Cab, 4X4, 4.0L SOHC V-6, 5-speed manual transmission. Noticed burnt oil smell. Checking under truck revealed oil drips on garage floor from rear area of engine. Traced to rear corner of left valve cover, but can't see enough of the rear of the engine top-end to say for sure where it may be coming from.
Before I put the truck in the shop for repair, where the oil may potentially be coming from on this particular engine? (I checked; the valve cover fasteners are secure) Any "chronic" oil leak problems with this model engine, or anything?
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Dad gave me an 87 Ford ranger a couple weeks ago. I love it. Everything works except I'm having transmission leak issues when I drive her more than 30 miles or so.the symptom is fluid puking out inspection plate area. I checked coolant lines today and unfortunately they are working great. I've had a couple suggestions recommending replacement of the front seal our front pump seal (is there a difference?)
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I just had trans rebuilt in my 98 4x4 4.0 ranger I thought while they had the trans out go ahead and replace rear seal. Got the truck back leaking bad carried it back they claim to have replaced it twice while they had it and guaranteed it was not leaking they say the leak is from the oil pan so I'm gonna pull the motor this week. Question is: can make an offset rear seal I still believe this is the problem. Which oil pan gasket to use.
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2004 automatic 88,000 miles 2wd
When I bought the truck it had a very small oil leak that would drip out of the bell housing between the housing and the inspection pan. it would leave a quarter (25cents) sized stain on the ground and would only drip for 10 minutes or so after I shut it off. in 3000 miles it would be down 1/2 quart of oil...
Well 3 weeks ago I stopped and noticed a HUGE stain now. I checked the oil and was 1 quart low. I filled it then I drove 90 miles the final week before parking and was down another 1/2 quart...
I am figuring the rear main seal is gone. I did some research and it seems these are common to go in the 3.0? What seal is the best to get? should I get the seal right from the dealer? or I will run into the same problem and go with a after market? I also learned that the crank shafts can get a groove in them and it's good to put a new "speedy seal" where can I get one of those?
Also for some strange reason I take the tranny out and the rear main is good ( I seriously doubt it) is there anything else that could be leaking that I should check when I have the tranny out? Can I remove the tranny with the factory exhaust still in place? it looks like it can squeeze just by it?
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I have a 1997 4.0L Ranger with an oil leak. It is near the front of the engine, I don't really see where it is. I was wondering if there is any common oil leaks near that general area?
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Changed my oil today. Noticed oil coming off the front of the engine. Where this could be originating or do I need to take the belt cover off? I hate having a leak. Wanna get it to stop. Just need to know what I may be up against. 1996 2.3ltr.....
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I have a real problem with 2000 Ranger, after changing the upper radiator hose and thermostat, I now have a pretty constant leak from the gasket between the thermostat body and engine. Appears to be something that is triggered by the thermostat opening, so whatever the leak, the thermostat is blocking it.
I've changed the gasket, cleaned the mounting surface as good as I could. Tried re-torquing the bolts, but on that score - what is the torque specs for the 2000 3.0 liter Ranger?
But ultimately, what the heck is wrong here? This should be a pretty brainless operation really. Am I tightening the connection too much and cracking the gasket? I guess that has just occurred to me, although the gasket is not as stiff as a typical fiber gasket is.
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I had a check engine light cane on. I took it for it to get checked and they gave me this code- P0457 EVAP small leak detected. ECM has detected a large leak in the EVAP System during a system monitor test.
The paper said I had a leak in the Evap canister or hose. I took the truck to a mechanic and was told I had Bad oxygen sensors. Can Bad/Dirty oxygen sensors make this error code come up?
Exactly where the oxygen sensors are? I was told they were behind the mufflers but I didn't see any and the diagram I found was not accurate.
2002 Ford Ranger XLT v6 extra cab.
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I have an '02 Ranger 2.3L 40k miles that will not turn over even with a good battery. When the key is inserted and turned, all the dash lights and headlights come on but the engine does not turn over. Could it be....
*Power Control Module?
*Ignition Module?
*Key?
*Whatever the part is called that reads the Key's security code.
*Clutch Switch?
I am trying to avoid getting the run-around at the dealer and be able to drive to work on Monday!
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Here's my problem I have a 02 ranger 3.0 with some problems and I need to bounce it off some one with knowledge.
1. starting and normal running fine / ok .
2. In drive at 2200 rpm t0 2800 rpm the engine is sluggish and at night the head lights dim about 30%
3. Sometimes the battery light will turn on during this problem.
4. The only code is for a air leak fuel / evap system .
5. Above 4200 -4500 rpm the engine staggers or cuts out.
Parts changed coil: / ECM, Fuel pump and filter, plugs & wires several relays and alternator.
Inspection: Checked most ground and common grounds, looked for damaged, cut worn an burnt wires or worn harness plug / connectors .
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2002 ranger edge 3.0 5spd. Truck idles perfect, but when you get rolling and higher rpms feels like the engine is missing. loos of power and shakes. I replaced the usual, plugs and wire's, seemed to work for a bit but came back. I cannot get any info on the scanner and have checked all the fuses. I am thinking coil pack but don't understand why it idles perfect and only misses under acceleration. No check engine light on.
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I have a 2002 Ranger with a 3.0/auto with about 180K on it. It runs good but for the past 6 months I have had a problem starting it. It does the same thing hot or cold but is a LITTLE easier when cold. It is very hard to start, you have to grind the started for about 30 seconds then it starts right up.
I checked to see if I could hear the fuel pump when the power is turned on and yes I can. But after checking the fuel pressure, there is no fuel pressure with the power on and the engine not running. Once the engine starts, there is about 65-68 pounds of fuel pressure - and the truck runs just fine. Starting is the only problem.
I was told I had to replace the fuel pump. Is the electric pump in the tank the ONLY fuel pump on the truck, or does it have a combination of the electric/tank pump and a mechanical pump on the engine?
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Son has a 1987 ford ranger 2.9 engine 5 speed 4x4 truck. See anti freeze leaking @ the rear of the engine where the intake attaches to the block. How long to re & re the intake, ect. Is it just gaskets or what? Is it a big job?
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I had a slight noise from the waterpump area for a while, was waiting for it to fail but instead it was the clutched fan bearings. How difficult is it to repair? And could there be a recall on this, the ranger has 51,00 miles and its all easy miles. 2004 ranger 2.3 clutched fan bearing failure ...
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Just bought this truck and no check engine light was on, went to get it smogged so I could register it and it had the following fault codes: P1443, P0401, P1131, and P1132. The truck seems to run great in my opinion and even gets really good gas mileage. There is a whistle intermittently from the intake manifold area though that is at times pretty loud.
Smog tech told me these trucks are "notorious" for the check engine light going bad and that usually the entire instrument cluster has to be replaced in order to fix it. I'm a very experienced motorcycle /small engine tech but do not have much experience with car/truck engines and especially not with emissions control systems.
Again it is a 1996 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6, 4 wheel drive STX with 185,000 miles on it. Where to start or what might be the source(s) of these error codes?
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I have a 2005 Ford Ranger Edge 4x4. 4.0, 5 speed. Pretty bare bones truck. On the 4th, my truck was fine... Good deal. On the morning of the 5th, I had a no start issue. No crank, no lights, nada. Figured it's the battery as the one in it was in there when I got it. Got a new one and dropped it in. No difference. This morning I drove me other truck and when I tried to start it this morning I got a clicking in the lower passenger side area. The dash is dark except for the battery and airbag lights, and they're really really dim. This is my newest to me truck and one before this was a 74 Chevy. So computer ones are not my strong point at all.
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My truck has had this annoying tendency to drink coolant. I believe I took care of it by replacing the thermostat gasket. Not so, it drinks about a quart every 50 miles - so quite a bit really.
Finally bit the bullet and took it to the dealer so that they could figure out where the coolant was going.
Answer I got back was - timing cover gasket, water pump, lower radiator hose.
The water pump appears to be good, its just the gasket that's bad. So my question is - how significant is the timing chain cover leak? Poking around online it appears to be reasonably common, but sounds very expensive. The dealer indicated it would be 2 days work minimum.
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I bought a '98. At the front passenger side of the engine, the injector rail is leaking fuel (a fair stream of it). I have done some googling, and browsing around the forums, and can't find much in the way of specific info on where to start with this.
Whatever the device at the front of the rail - Without digging too far, it seems that the leak is coming just below it.
Questions:
Am I obliged to change injectors with the rail?
What is involved with changing the rail? Removing upper intake only? At all?
What is the box shaped device at the front of the rail, passenger side? Test port? Pressure Regulator? Both?
I won't have a chance to work on this again until next weekend, but thought I'd try to do some homework beforehand.
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I have a 96 ranger with a 4.0 and an automatic transmission that has a horrible oil leak when cold. The leak looks to be coming out above and behind the oil filter. After running for a few minutes the oil leak appears to go away.
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The problem I have is the truck won't move in o/d. If I put it in revers 1,and 2 it works. A little back ground. 4 years ago the trans went out of my 95 4.0 4x4, had it rebuilt so it has 0 miles on it. It got really cold that winter had lots of trouble getting the trans and torque converter lined up. motor went bad on me. A few months ago finally had some money to spend bought a 98 explorer sport with a 4.0 x code motor. the motor runs fine apart from an oil leak and an exhaust leak. the exhaust leak is no big deal I just haven't gotten the system tight yet.
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My overflow tank seems to be going empty slowly. The last time I filled it was in March and I filled it to the Full line. Now, the overflow is almost empty. I did 425 KM last night almost non-stop and the level stayed the same since that night and today. So, I am not burning any thru the gaskets. Exhaust is not white neither.
I did see one suspect thought. I have this really small rad at the bottom of the bumper and it seems a little wet around the tubes that enter it. Could it be that? I have no spots on the driveway or road when I park. Specs of my truck:
190 000 KM.
Oil changed on Saturday.
Runs well, no loss of power.
Temps are good.
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