i have a 02 ranger 4by4 with 4.0.every time i try to fuel the pu it spits gas back out the fill tube and i have to fill it very slow to get fuel in it.i just replaced the filler neck about 6 mos ago due to having a hole in the the hose by the local ford dealer,
View 6 Repliesi just rebuilt the motor in my 2002 ford ranger 3.0 and it wont start it cranks over but back fires and bucks alot. took the plugs out and it gets spark and fuel. when it sparks it sparks like multiple times.
View 3 RepliesRecently bought a 2003 Ranger Edge with 101,000 miles. Step side. Having trouble filling up with gas. Replaced the hose from the filler neck to the tank (the one with a 90 degree bend) still no luck. It was collapsed.
View 5 RepliesTruck spits and sputters when it starts up..and now it does it more often New spark plugs, new fuel pump and filter New mass air flow. I changed fuel octain and that work for a few weeks and back it spits...... It seems that when I put something new in the truck it runs great for a few weeks and then it starts up again...... I can not find a fuel regulator that fits the one that is on the truck now......so I have not replaced it........
View 4 RepliesI have a 1999 ranger 4x4 , when I'm going to a slow final stop the abs kicks in ,doesn't do it every time , there's no abs warning light , took it to the ford dealer they scanned it and said it was the left front hub & bearing assembly, said the sensor wasn't reading the back of the bearing assembly. I can't understand way the abs light isn't on, is there anyway to clean that they want to replace the hub & bearing, Is a use hub & bearing replacement a good way to go? They told me I could pull the fuse and kill the abs, but I find three fuses I pull aII three and got a speed sensor check engine code. I hate to replace that hub & bearing when there's no problem with the bearing ,Is there any way to deactivate the abs, by the way it's 4 wheel abs.
1999 FORD RANGER 4X4 4.0......
My overflow tank seems to be going empty slowly. The last time I filled it was in March and I filled it to the Full line. Now, the overflow is almost empty. I did 425 KM last night almost non-stop and the level stayed the same since that night and today. So, I am not burning any thru the gaskets. Exhaust is not white neither.
I did see one suspect thought. I have this really small rad at the bottom of the bumper and it seems a little wet around the tubes that enter it. Could it be that? I have no spots on the driveway or road when I park. Specs of my truck:
190 000 KM.
Oil changed on Saturday.
Runs well, no loss of power.
Temps are good.
Whenever I slow down for a car to turn or accelerate after a stop sign the ice cold air goes away and is replaced by warmer air but then it never turns back cold. Only when I kill the engine and start back up does it return. I just had the Freon refilled and there are no leaks.
View 3 RepliesI noticed that my ABS was engaging when I would slow down to a stop while turning left. I pulled the fuse for the ABS just to make sure that's what was causing the pulsating brake, and it was. Anyway, if it's an ABS sensor problem, would it be the front passenger side sensor if it's only happening when I turn left? Is there a way to test this. Would a scanner detect it? It hasn't been throwing a code or anything. Just the ABS engaging while braking and turning to the left when it shouldn't be.
View 6 RepliesI have a 97 ranger 4 cyl that's been making a whistle noise the last few weeks. The sound is literally like a whistle and the noise level varies but its never obnoxious or loud. The sound does not happen when truck is idle, seems to happen mostly when I first accelerate and slow down although sometimes it does happen when I am going 20-30. it doesn't happen all the time but lately its happening more. What this could be? The truck idles and runs great.
View 14 RepliesI have an 87 Ranger and the oil pressure gauge is slow to respond changes in pressure. Is this the way the gauge is designed to work or do I have a bad sending unit?
View 4 Replies'94 Ranger with aluminum wheels.
I have problems with slow leaks and vibrations from multiple wheels. Both problems have persisted through multiple tire changes over the years. The same shop has always done the tire changes and they tell me they've been balancing the wheels and cleaning the inner rims. The vibration went away after putting on my B2 wheels. Then swapping the rears back to the ranger wheels, 2 at a time, the vibration was back for both test drives (hence vibrations from multiple wheels).
The wheels are badly corroded at the rims and valve stems which leads me to believe it's the wheels themselves that are causing the leaks. I haven't heard of excessively old wheels causing vibrations though which is why I ask. I will likely be buying some craigslist or junkyard replacement wheels but wanted to "check in" first.
This has happened 3 times.
1st) pulled quickly over to side of road, shut off truck. It would not start then. Towed it to service station and it started the next morning (with no repair made). I wonder if tow ride dislodged the the blockage in fuel line(?). Always sounds like it's going to turn over, but like not getting fuel.
2nd) Went to leave work, truck wouldn't start. Towed to my mechanic and he replaced fuel pump. Thought it was fixed because it ran fine until just the other day.
3rd) Slowed down to complete stop in heavy traffic and it stalled. Would not restart. Again sounded like it was going to start but didn't seem to be getting fuel. Good samaratins pushed me off road. Had it towed to mechanic. Started the next morning without any repair or service. It's like the tow ride and bumps getting it off the tow truck dislodges what ever is blocking the fuel line.
My mechanic replaced the fuel pump, but I don't think her replaced the fuel filter.
I have had my 1998 Mazda B2500 truck since 2000 and this problem comes and goes (it's mostly been gone lately). Usually when it is cold outside. At slow speeds it creaks and squeaks - kinda embarrassing - if I am sitting still it squeaks when I turn the steering wheel. Once the speed picks up you can't hear it. I have noticed this in other fords about the same year.
View 1 RepliesWhen I get over 45MPH, I notice a whop, whop sound. It speeds up as my speed increases. I have had the tires check and rebalanced, but that wasn't it. I have tried just revving the engine when in neutral, but I don't hear the noise. Could it be u-joints, or is there something else?
View 9 Replies1999 ford ranger 2X4 manual trans. My back up lights work sometimes and sometimes not.
View 1 RepliesOne last issue with my 2000 B3000 3.0L. The leak seems to be on the left (passenger) side of the water pump very near where the bottom radiator hose connects to it. I can't find any loose bolts. It does not leak while driving the truck or soon after. It has to sit for several hours or overnight before it shows up. There are usually 3 or 4 wet spots where it drips from the water pump to the frame to the driveway. It is small enough that I only have to fill up my coolant tank every 1 or 2 months. Could this just be a small gasket leak? It's been happening for about a year or so I think. I replaced the radiator about 2 years ago. I've been expecting it to get worse or bust loose and have been checking it very often. I've never seen one not leak while running like this-has me puzzled.
View 6 Replies1988 Bronco II 2.9L Issues:
- When I turn off the wiper switch the wipers immediately stop in place, they do not continue to their normal 'down' position.
- The switch's adjuster to slow the wipers isn't working, only the low and high settings work.
What I've done so far:
- Replaced wiper switch with used from spare parts.
- Replaced wiper switch with new from spare parts.
- Replaced wiper motor with remanufactured from Autozone.
- Thoroughly cleaned wiper motor ground terminals.
- Replaced interval wiper governor with used from spare parts.
The problem occurred after the truck sat in my garage for 6 months while I removed and reinstalled the engine to replace some gaskets & seals.
Got a 1986 Ranger 2.3 EFI 5 speed that I have owned since it was almost new and will never let it go. 290,000 mls and still running strong "except". Noticed the last couple of months that when I start it cold it fires right off. If I start it hot it always takes 3 tries and always goes on the third try except....on occasion it will not start at all. It is random and after I let it cool a bit (about 30 min) it will start. Over the years I have replace many of the fuel system components (fuel tank pump, high press. pump, inline filter and canister filter, fuel press regulator) but wondering what else might be the problem.
I put a pressure tester on it the other day and when I selected the key to start the pump would spool up to build pressure and shut off. The press gauge would register that but the pressure would immediately go back to zero. After start up it would hold a constant 30psi at all rpm,s. Shut the engine off and pressure drops right down to zero. Shouldn't the system hold pressure for at least a while after shut down? Could this be the problem with my sluggish starts? What would be the normal fuel pressure? Can't seem to find it in my Haynes manual. Once running it runs great.
I was driving my 85 2.3 liter down the road and it died all of a sudden like and wont start back up. I took out a plug to check for spark and had someone turn it over and I touched it to the big metal part the grill connects to at the top but I got nothing. It IS getting gas. The spark plug was white as if it was really hot and rough-looking for its relative newness. I bought a new distributor cap because it was corroded, but it didnt work. They tested the ignition module at the store and its good, so I am thinking distributor?? Also, could compression issues keep it from sparking? I am a little worried it got over-heated somehow, but don't know....
View 9 RepliesBackground - I just got done changing a few things... Exhaust Manifold/gasket, battery cables, valve cover gasket, oil cooler gasket and hoses, power steering pump and hoses, and ball joints. Most of this has nothing to do with the issue that came up as I am driving it back to return it to her.
While out on the freeway, I initially notice subtle power losses and surges. These quickly escalate into almost total power loss with back firing, sputtering and much more noticeable surges in power. The check engine light was turning off then on a few times before pretty much deciding to stay on.
So I nurse it back home on back roads due to its inability to maintain freeway speeds. I proceed to check everything I touched paying special attention to the exhaust manifold and surrounding area. The new manifold came from the j/y and was barely used so I had initially just stuck with the O2 sensor that came with it; I changed this to the one the vehicle had previously been employing as it was not exhibiting these symptoms until after the job was done. I also double checked all the hoses, intake tube, wires and connectors; everything is connected.
From here, I research the method of pulling codes on OBD-1 vehicles by making the check engine light flash. It flashed a 111 and a 172 at the same time; the information I could find said the 111 means everything is normal, and the 172 suggested O2 or MAF. I am reasonably sure the O2 is not the problem so I focused on the MAF. Disconnecting it while running seemed to improve the way it idled so via the process of deduction, which also included the consideration of typical symptoms of MAF sensor failure, I proceeded to replacing the MAF sensor which amounted to little improvement.
At this moment in time the check engine light has not returned but it is clearly not in a drive-able state of being. It actually seems to have ever so slightly improved though.
Additionally, the symptoms only exist when the engine is hot and has been driven; it drives normally for 5-10 minutes until it gets to operating temperature then it starts to crap out. After changing the MAF sensor, I let it idle for 20 minutes and it was fine until about 2 minutes into the test drive.
Speculation - I am thinking spark plugs could also be a culprit as its has been forever since a tune-up but the sudden onset of this condition make me doubt this a little; it also has 8 plugs so even if one or two crapped out it should still run better than this I would think.
I have a 2007 Ranger XLT 2 Door Extracab and have a question about the seats in this vehicle. I'm a 6' 1" guy and have long legs. I've lamented how little travel the seats (esp the drivers seat) has. Since I have long legs I have the seat as far back as it apparently goes. On long trips, this becomes exceedingly uncomfortable. To top it off, I had a knee injury recently and the range of motion of my knees are less than normal, making it impossible to drive the truck with the limited ability to move the seat further back.. My question is: Is there a way to get the seat to go further back, without extensive engineering work? I've noticed this seems to be a Ford thing as my wife's 2012 Escape has the same problem.
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